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The Larry
climber
Moab, UT
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May 19, 2011 - 02:26pm PT
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Hey Couchmaster I remember that route. Can't quite remember the name though. "Big Bill's Tight Squeeze"? ;-)
Jaybro, Give me a call when the weather breaks. I'd love to take a walk on the wide side with you guys....I think.
I fell out of this chimney.
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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May 19, 2011 - 06:03pm PT
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Scruffy B, you are probably right, but in the Needles there literally has to be thousands of Chimneys, and most of the routes that are long almost always seem to have them. I seem to do everything wrong on these and take everything but the kitchen sink, but they seem more enjoyable when you are quite sure you will not die if you should fall out. They all have tons of crystals that stick out and you would be crazy not to use every one you can becouse they will scrape you raw if you do not. Anyway I like them.
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scuffy b
climber
dissected alluvial deposits, late Pleistocene
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May 19, 2011 - 06:22pm PT
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Actually, Mike,
I was just describing how I managed to fall out of a chimney last year,
didn't mean to be preachy or anything.
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nutjob
Gym climber
Berkeley, CA
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May 19, 2011 - 06:24pm PT
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How long did it take for your tailbone to feel better scuffy?
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The Lisa
Trad climber
Da Bronx, NY
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May 19, 2011 - 06:31pm PT
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This is The Crevice at the Mohonk Preserve. The tourist route goes along the bottom with ladders to climb up at the end. However there is often such a backlog it is easy to faceclimb/stem your way out - to everyone's horror.
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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May 19, 2011 - 06:35pm PT
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The Crevice!
lot's of memories of stemming over the heads of the tourists to get down from climbs, always suspected that it may have been a factor in the reduced access to Sky Top...
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scuffy b
climber
dissected alluvial deposits, late Pleistocene
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May 19, 2011 - 06:40pm PT
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Not as long as yours, Nutjob!
No, really, all I can say is that I banged it up July 4th weekend
and I was climbing chimneys a month later.
I don't think the tailbone was as big a factor as apathy.
I hope you heal fast and well.
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bergbryce
Mountain climber
Oakland -> SLT
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May 19, 2011 - 06:43pm PT
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You could drop straight to the bottom of this Pinnacles chimney.
But it's got a good soft cushioning surface to land on, ages of some sort of $hit that feels like your walking on woodchips or something.
This guy is a great partner for anyone in the Santa Cruz area, btw.
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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May 19, 2011 - 07:05pm PT
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Scruffy not taken as preachy, brobably need to go back and read the thread. But your still climbing chimneys right.All three of these have some great chimneying on them.Haven't done this one yet but it looks kind of evil I think it is called Terrorcractal
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Elcapinyoazz
Social climber
Joshua Tree
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May 19, 2011 - 07:14pm PT
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About 10 years ago I pulled one of those Scuffy maneuvers on p3 of Reeds (just below the start of the crux) and earned a headfirst/backwards dive out of the thing when a hold broke, ending up face to face with my belayer.
Moral of the story: Don't try to bypass 5.7 chimney moves via 5.11 crimping on potato chip edges. I've got a slide somewhere of the cam lobe bruises the fall put on my back when I slammed the wall with the rack between me and the rock.
Here's a fun one in Josh you could fall out of:
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scuffy b
climber
dissected alluvial deposits, late Pleistocene
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May 19, 2011 - 07:19pm PT
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Ouch and ouch again.
Mike, you're right that I'm still climbing them, but I'm not necessarily
climbing them right.
Actually, for me a true squeeze chimney is desperately hard, much worse
than off width. About a number and a half harder.
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The Lisa
Trad climber
Da Bronx, NY
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May 19, 2011 - 07:20pm PT
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Ha ha, Ed, I never thought of climbing DOWN the thing.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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May 19, 2011 - 07:22pm PT
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Nice shoes!
Will do, The Larry! Going out tomorrow...
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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May 19, 2011 - 09:45pm PT
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Getting up them is climbing them right as far as I am concerned.
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Al_T.Tude
Trad climber
Monterey, CA
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May 26, 2011 - 05:46pm PT
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In "The Hitchiker's Guide To The Galaxy", Douglas Adams describes a technique for flying: "Throw your body at the ground...and miss."
Perhaps this technique could be adapted to prevent falling out of chimneys.
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wayne burleson
climber
Amherst, MA (currently in Lutry, CH)
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May 26, 2011 - 06:21pm PT
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The Crevice at Mohonk was arguably my first rock climb.
I was 6 and at a church camp in High Falls from which you
could see the Mohonk Tower.
That was summer of 1966, and they sent lots of kids from NYC
out into the country because they were afraid of racial riots
breaking out like Watts in LA the previous summer...
I think all chimneys in the Gunks are just loaded with horizontals.
Has anyone done a sort of convoluted cave/chimney 5.2 thing on the
right side of Skytop. One of my first lead climbs. I was way
scared, but falling out wasn't going to happen.
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seth kovar
climber
Reno, NV
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May 26, 2011 - 06:39pm PT
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The Crevice at Mohonk
The Lemon Squeeze
The ladders count as aid, I would think...
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The Lisa
Trad climber
Da Bronx, NY
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May 26, 2011 - 11:52pm PT
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Nah, you do not have to use the ladders, thereby avoiding 'aiding' the exit (or the downclimb). It does narrow at the top so chimneying is feasible.
I need to start practising holding chimney poses in my office building's elevator....
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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May 27, 2011 - 12:33am PT
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lock. load. thrutch. repeat.
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melski
Trad climber
bytheriver
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May 27, 2011 - 11:33am PT
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if you must venture into chimneys ,,take lyn ramono,,,shorts,,no knee pads,,and not a scrape,,,proof technique helps,,
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