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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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May 18, 2011 - 11:26am PT
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i've interacted with The Larry a couple times in the last few days. A good guy, a pleasure to meet. Couldn't tell if he use the computer"the rest of us" use... too busy talking climbing and other shitd.
\
Climbed Sidewinder (5.11+++++++++ chimney, Craig Luebben) and you couldn't possibilly fall out of it, though ever inch is hard as fuk to ascent....
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jogill
climber
Colorado
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May 18, 2011 - 08:56pm PT
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Stay away from chimneys. Nasty things unless you are small and thin and have short limbs. Historically, rock climbing began in chimneys and only later did climbers venture onto exposed faces and ridges. So chimney climbing is somewhat retarded. IMHO
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OR
Trad climber
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May 18, 2011 - 10:16pm PT
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wbw, ya I remember the slab speculation now as well. I was livin in c4 at the time and was there when they (Walt I think) spotted Dereks body at the base with a scope. Sucked! The Chimney thing just stuck in my mind as it was the initial speculation I guess. We will never really know will we. Great lad that guy was for sure. OK, back to Donini and chimney's!
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couchmaster
climber
pdx
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May 18, 2011 - 10:42pm PT
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Also, Stevie Haston, who identified Derek told me that there was a brief and sudden rainstorm the afternoon that he fell, and that he believed it may have been a factor. This is correct. I was there that day, and the rain must have been @ 2-3 pm or so.
I had done a FA of a sort of chimney with The Larry (The Larry led it thank the good lord), and I can attest that he neither fell out of it, and doesn't appear to look like the Lisa either.
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Jay Wood
Trad climber
Land of God-less fools
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May 18, 2011 - 10:50pm PT
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I fell in the wide-ish chimney on RNWFHD (mental weakness).
But it was dark, so kind of a no-harm-no-foul situation.
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Brokedownclimber
Trad climber
Douglas, WY
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May 18, 2011 - 11:00pm PT
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I'm voting with John on this topic! Stay outta' the manky things! Face climbing rules!
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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May 18, 2011 - 11:59pm PT
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Screw that Jogill stay away from the thimble it cripples, no one ever fell out of a chimney(Donini 2011).
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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May 19, 2011 - 12:12am PT
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Jogill if you think chimneys suck so bad you should try the Gill Net just past the Needles Eye on the left side of the highway. It is more of an offwidth to chimney but only about 35 feet high it is rated 5.6 in the book but I would love to see any boulderer do it as it is only a V negative zero or a B minus 1 highball. Who ever put that up was sandbagging the hell out of all of us.
Sorry too much time at the local brew pub tonight.
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frog-e
Trad climber
Imperial Beach California
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May 19, 2011 - 01:57am PT
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Basically john gill speaks the truth...
Always thought the chimney thrashers were the fat talententless ones
Who really couldn't pull down for sh#t and "invented" their own version
So as to at least conjure some sort of esoteric status amongst themselves.
Now - as humanity declines - whoa...chimney climbing "greatness" is
Coming back...too funny. Let the masochistic poop-tards spray...
Chimney climbing is easy...just don't put too much crap on your
Body and you'll sail up it.
Re-read jogill's post - he is telling you the truth.
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ß Î Ø T Ç H
Boulder climber
bouldering
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May 19, 2011 - 02:12am PT
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(None of these are mine)
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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May 19, 2011 - 02:36am PT
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Chimney climbing is easy...just don't put too much crap on your
Body and you'll sail up it.
oh my!
first ascent of Viva Gorditas! 5.11c
Ben Wah looking beat up a bit
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=721610
hey, it's only 5.11, how hard could that be?
let's jump on it frog-e boy!
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Rick Sylvester
Trad climber
Squaw Valley, California
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May 19, 2011 - 05:50am PT
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Yeah, what wbw, seconded by a couple others, wrote squares with what I heard, that it will forever remain a mystery exactly where Derek fell and why. The climb was so many grades below his ability. Bachar's fall too. But I also heard the localized rain cell theory.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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May 19, 2011 - 09:19am PT
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Jogill's post was interesting but I do not entirely agree with him. All aspects of climbing are important unless you are content with being a one trick pony specialist. To me, the ultimate expression on rock climbing is found in long, multi-pitch routes. Success on these routes is dependent in some expertise on all aspects of climbing: crack, chimney, slab, steep face etc.
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Prod
Trad climber
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Topic Author's Reply - May 19, 2011 - 09:47am PT
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To me, the ultimate expression on rock climbing is found in long, multi-pitch routes. Success on these routes is dependent in some expertise on all aspects of climbing: crack, chimney, slab, steep face etc.
+1 for that. I have never climbed anything I did not like. There have been some that I don't remember, and some that stand out above the rest, but I like it all. Even plastic.
Prod.
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jogill
climber
Colorado
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May 19, 2011 - 11:26am PT
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Mia Culpa. Actually, I've harbored a resentment about chimneys since 1957 when (at 6'2", 175 lbs) I was spit out of a dihedral the (5'4", 110 lbs) Conns had done in the Needles! Had to face climb it. So Donini's right.
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goatboy smellz
climber
Nederland
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May 19, 2011 - 01:32pm PT
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RAYDOG! When are you coming back to Vedauwoo?
We really do suck and need your help sailing up all those chimney's...
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scuffy b
climber
dissected alluvial deposits, late Pleistocene
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May 19, 2011 - 01:53pm PT
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If you really want to fall out of a chimney, here's a pretty good
method.
Let's say you're in a narrow chimney, but not a squeeze.
Foot/knee kind of thing, not foot/back.
You see a nice feldspar crystal and decide to use it as a foothold,
yes, you try to cheat for one move because your knees are too tender,
and then of course the foothold breaks and you find yourself on the ground
with a banged-up tailbone.
If you want to climb a chimney, you should chimney the thing. It's not a
face climb.
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ydpl8s
Trad climber
Santa Monica, California
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May 19, 2011 - 01:58pm PT
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Ummmm...Biotech, if Crack of Fear is considered a chimney, then I'm definitely staying away from chimneys!
I prefer the actual chimney around the corner to the left.
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scuffy b
climber
dissected alluvial deposits, late Pleistocene
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May 19, 2011 - 01:59pm PT
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He didn't say the whole thing is a chimney, but what about the chimney part?
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ydpl8s
Trad climber
Santa Monica, California
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May 19, 2011 - 02:06pm PT
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You're probably right scuffy, I never got up to the "chimney" part. Is it just as flaring as the stuff below? Can you actually get in it if you're not a thin man like Derek?
The hardest thing I could realistically climb on that rock was Wolf's Tooth, I flailed on Tiger's Tooth. But, in the early 70's I saw Bridwell flash Tiger's in a few minutes, I was dumbfounded.
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