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JamesG
Trad climber
Thousand Oaks, CA
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Apr 20, 2011 - 03:42pm PT
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The first trad lead I did without my dad's supervision was on Nutcracker on Cap Rock in JT, probably the closest I've come to killing myself climbing. I didn't realize I should've stayed right longer to actually have some pro for the chimney section, and ended up in groundfall territory towards the top. I should go back and head up that again for nostalgia. Diabetics in Belle campground is also one of my favorite easy climbs for taking new people up, at 5.4 and well featured with a nice, if a bit coarse, crack.
I've had a blast on White Maiden's Walkaway on Tahquitz, and I love to do The Trough just because it's fun to run up, especially the last pitch.
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le_bruce
climber
Oakland, CA
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Apr 20, 2011 - 03:45pm PT
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All of the formations that rim the Budd Lake bowl are 5.5/5.6 paradise - Unicorn, Cockscomb, Echoes, Cathedral. Columbia, Tressider, Tenaya. That region is paradise for the scrambler:
Unicorn:
The scrambles... they're everywhere...
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Tfish
Trad climber
La Crescenta, CA
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Apr 20, 2011 - 03:47pm PT
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I no hands soloed a 3 bolt 5.2 at Alabama Hills. And there is a 3 pitch 5.6 at Texas Canyon that is super fun, the top 2 pitches are like 5.2-5.3.
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 20, 2011 - 03:54pm PT
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I hear there is a few good ones in the Canadian Rockies.
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clode
Trad climber
portland, or
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Apr 20, 2011 - 04:03pm PT
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Hah! No one mentioned The Cow, Center (5.5) on Glacier Point Apron, climber's left of The Grack (5.6). The crux is the first move off the ground, getting onto the slab and the partly vegetated crack for protection. Few handholds and very slick face to get started, easily a V6 boulder move for sure!
Another is Left Slab Crack at Smith, in the Dihedral area. This climb is 5.4 and one of my favorite at Smith. The problem is so many climbs in that area are full of noobies and communication is difficult at best. You really need to use your partner's name and listen carefully, and answer so that you both know who you are REALLY talking to! Also there's North Face of Independence Tower at Smith, in the Staender's Ridge area (5.5).
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Richard
climber
Bend, OR.
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Apr 20, 2011 - 04:10pm PT
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Clode
Try Round River on Koala Rock. Fun mild climbing to a nice summit with a 5.3 or 5.8 finish
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Apr 20, 2011 - 04:28pm PT
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Munginella is 5.6.
DMT
It is a 5.6 (and so is deception), but a good route worth mentioning, and not so hard. I thought I would mention it since people list Swiss Arete 5.7, North Ridge of Conness 5.6 (on the downclimb), and a few others over 5.5. : )
How about full North Arete of Mt. Humphreys (5.5) and East Arete of Carl Heller (cl 4). Those two are my favorite routes so far because doing them as winter climbs added a lot more difficulty to these day hike-able beauties.
me on Humphreys by Mark T.
Carl Heller's east Arete from the summit
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Seamstress
Trad climber
Yacolt, WA
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Apr 20, 2011 - 04:39pm PT
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Round River at Smith is fun and 5.4.
The Grand's Exum is 5.4and one of the most memorable routes for me. It was my first big mountain experience, and I was pregnant with my last baby.
Standard Route on White Horse is 5.5 with a multitude of variations.
One of our favortie, make the best of a pouring day routes on Cathedral is Upper Refuse. Yes, it is almost fun to do that in a deluge.
I call those routes 5.Fun.
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JEleazarian
Trad climber
Fresno CA
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Apr 20, 2011 - 04:55pm PT
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Old Original, The Sponge, North and South Finger, Chockstone Dome, H&L and Elephant Rock at Pinnacles, Tollhouse Traverse, Tenaya Peak, Arrowhead Spire, The Footstool (Right), Sunnyside Bench (Regular and Waterfall Routes), East Arete of Church Tower, SW Arete Right of Lower Brother in the Valley, and many more were highly enjoyable and, in my decrepit state, satisfying now.
John
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Steven Amter
climber
Washington, DC
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Apr 20, 2011 - 06:11pm PT
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I am biased of course, but most of the best 5.5 and under routes I have ever encountered were in the gunks, tho' some have been substantially upgraded since the 1970s... note that a 5.3 ("Andrew," I think)once was the cover shot of magazine (Mountain?).
Also, some of the greatest routes of my life were gunks moonlight solos in the under 5.5 range - totally magical.
Although slightly harder than 5.5, I should think that "Wolfshead" in the Wind River range belongs near the top of anyone's list. Ditto for the Northeast Ridge of Bugaboo Spire in the Canadian Rockies (Might have been rated 5.7, but would have been rated lower in a lot of other areas, in my opinion.)
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Brandon-
climber
Done With Tobacco
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Apr 20, 2011 - 06:15pm PT
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Also, some of the greatest routes of my life were gunks moonlight solos in the under 5.5 range - totally magical.
Kindergarten Cracks on Donner are fun on a full moon as well.
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Quasimodo
Trad climber
CA
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Apr 20, 2011 - 07:11pm PT
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I loved watching Bacher and Croft free solo in JT. My first insight free solo was The Eye on Cyclops.....the top crack felt like 5.0c not 5.0. My next onsight solo was Robo Ranger on Sports Challenge.....definately 5.5. There are a lot of easy climbs that are fun. I don't really understand the competitive climber who always must climb really hard and spend the day dogging a route. Not much fun movement in hang dogging. It looks frustrating. Moving smooth and fast over beautiful rock is so much fun!
One of my friends asked me if I climbed harder when I was younger. I said, "No, I always sucked at climbing.". I don't really care about the grade much I focus on finding classic lines, great moves, good rock, the experience and the exposure.
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squishy
Mountain climber
sacramento
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Apr 20, 2011 - 07:43pm PT
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knapsack crack, 5.4...and a fun and easy solo...
anything on the hogsback really...
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goatboy smellz
climber
Nederland
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Apr 20, 2011 - 07:46pm PT
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From the east face of Mickey Mouse Wall to Kiener's Route up on Longs, about 2,642 routes...only three of them are good tho...
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
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Apr 20, 2011 - 07:50pm PT
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knapsack crack, 5.4...and a fun and easy solo...
I was waiting for someone to mention that. My first trad lead. Cruiser climbing and sucks gear off the rack. Perfect new trad leader stuff.
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213
climber
Where the Froude number often >> 1
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Apr 21, 2011 - 04:14am PT
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A fantastic grade offering some superb routes and rock quality. Its cool since it allows for classic solo climbing or if your friends so desire, break out the ropes and a light rack and take some people up to places they'd never expect to go. But the good routes are so bomber just leave the gear and float through the hills!
Some of my favorites:
Southeast Ridge of Mount Emerson (II 5.4). Really cool route to solo with your friends. Go do it, you will not be disappointed.
I repeat: not be disappointed...
The South Face of Mount Clarence King (I 5.4). The move is so cool. Trust in Jah. The feeling of the pulling onto the summit and soaking up the views was nothing short of clarity. My first soloing experience in the mountains...a whole new world opened. Camping high in the Sixty Lakes Basin is highly recommended.
North Arete of North Cotter (II 5.4). Photo in Fiddler and Moynier will get you stoked! Really cool (and big) exposure in a fantastic setting! Maybe the best pitch of 5.4 arete climbing ever...
Praise Jah atop Cotter! Don't forget a fishing rod!
Horse Creek Spire S Ridge (I 5.4, mostly fun 4th with techy top out, do I get a neon bonus for my hat/running shoe combo?):
Kindergarten-High (I 5.5). 250' of easy granite glory on Donner Summit. Do first pitch corner on Kindergarten then float right into the upper face zone of Junior High. All season climbing, and one of the finest easy solo linkups (especially adding in Junior High 5.6), you can log an easy 2k of perfect moevement over stone in a morning here easy.
Cruisin the corner in late low-snow November
Funny how in summer and fall this is a boardshorts-only lap-fest in the sun!!!
If you don't feel like solo downclimbing 5.6 and aren't bothered by some quick rappin, bring a skinny rope and hit the North Ridge of Conness, no more than 4th class, but definitely getting towards world class if you link with NW Ridge of North Peak (I 5.3) (and more so if you add in the West Ridge, this is on the list for triple doubles this year)
Say what?! Thanks North Peak, for another sidewalk of the Sierra!
And finally, one of the ultimate beach-to-beach-via-granite-glory cruises to do with your friends, Tenaya Peak (II 5.5):
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Tom
Big Wall climber
San Luis Obispo CA
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Apr 21, 2011 - 06:47am PT
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My first trad climb in the Valley was Aunt Fanny's Pantry, and 5.3 was not too stiff for a couple of teen brothers. Because it was at the "Church Bowl", Mom let us do it without a guide.
Later that day, I flailed and backed off of Church Bowl Chimney, at 5.6. My excuse is I was too short for the wide chimney.
Getting to the top of the traverse pitches on RA, and then bailing, was a real high point of our trip.
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Mad69Dog
Mountain climber
Superior, CO
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Apr 21, 2011 - 10:47am PT
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I think the NFace of Long's Peak is 5.4. The last time I did it, the face was covered in ice and I didn't have tools or crampons. That's the hardest 5.4 I've ever soloed. I'd rate it 3 Pound Hammer/16 Penny Nail.
Does 5.5 A2 count as a 5.5? I still have a tic in my face over that one.
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Mark Hudon
Trad climber
Hood River, OR
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Apr 21, 2011 - 11:15am PT
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Horseman, 5.4, The Gunks, Awesome route!
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GOclimb
Trad climber
Boston, MA
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Apr 21, 2011 - 11:27am PT
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Lots of folks are mentioning High E and Horseman at the Gunks. Both excellent climbs, but I think the best bang for your buck at 5.5 or under at the Gunks is Yum Yum Yab Yum. Honestly only 5.3 moves, but total 5.10 exposure.
Pitch 1 of YYYY is forgettable, but the rest of the climb is superb. Typical spicy Gunks face climbing leading to an overhanging corner on jugs leading to mind-blowing hand traverse under a big roof. With huge air under your ass, big handholds, reasonable footholds, and all the gear you could want.
About as good as it gets for 5.3.
GO
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