Have you climbed 5.5 or below?

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mike m

Trad climber
black hills
Topic Author's Original Post - Apr 20, 2011 - 01:30am PT
How many out there have done some of the classic climbs rated 5.5 or below. I have done a lot of them around here(keep your jokes to yourself) and some of them are great climbs. Conn Route on Aqarium Rock, Spire 2, Spire 4, Walkee Upee Rockee, the Thimble, Innercourse, Hitchenpost, ect. Many of these are great climbs and are harder than one thinks. I know I have done a 5.0 that felt at least 5.2 or 5.3. I am sure some there are some great stories of epics on some of the longer easier route out there.
justthemaid

climber
Jim Henson's Basement
Apr 20, 2011 - 01:31am PT
Have I ever? That's all I climb ;)

... no really.
Melissa

Gym climber
berkeley, ca
Apr 20, 2011 - 01:33am PT
My Yosemite favorites are

Tenaya Peak
Sunnyside Bench
Arrowhead Spire
Delhi Dog

climber
Good Question...
Apr 20, 2011 - 01:34am PT
"I know I have done a 5.0 that felt at least 5.2 or 5.3."

Sorry butt this had me laughing...
...to answer your question, yep, there are plenty of good quality "easy" class 5 climbs I've done, many without a rope that makes for satisfying experiences...

An epic is an epic no matter...

Cheers,
DD
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
Apr 20, 2011 - 01:42am PT
Old Original at Pinnacles. Like an alpine bridge in the sky with nary a hard move on it.
mike m

Trad climber
black hills
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 20, 2011 - 01:44am PT
It takes balls to climb 5.5 and below!
apogee

climber
Apr 20, 2011 - 01:46am PT
Fingertip Traverse, 5.3, Tahquitz

The money pitch is un-beee-freeekkiinnnn-leeeevvvv-ubbbbbble.



deuce4

climber
Hobart, Australia
Apr 20, 2011 - 01:47am PT
you talking 5.5a/b or 5.5c/d?
Jan

Mountain climber
Okinawa, Japan
Apr 20, 2011 - 01:50am PT

I fully intend to climb the Third Flatiron again on my 80th birthday.
Mighty Hiker

climber
Vancouver, B.C.
Apr 20, 2011 - 01:51am PT
Midway at Castle Rock (Leavenworth). Great fun - steep, big holds, exposed.

you talking 5.5a/b or 5.5c/d?

I usually downgrade them after sending them. If I can do them, anyone can.
karodrinker

Trad climber
San Jose, CA
Apr 20, 2011 - 01:55am PT
Just soloed half a dozen routes of those grades at trashcan rock last Tuesday. Loved every second of it.
bluering

Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
Apr 20, 2011 - 01:55am PT
Yep, I love 'em.

Sunnyside Bench

A classic. Very fun.

EDIT: Another Taco Head and I put up a 5.2 R/X locally last year. Up on Skyline. We're calling her PTTS. Post-Traumatic Tick Syndrome.
10b4me

Ice climber
Happy Boulders
Apr 20, 2011 - 02:37am PT
sure, many times. they are alot of fun
+1 on Tenaya Peak
marv

Mountain climber
Bay Area
Apr 20, 2011 - 02:42am PT
I found Lone Pine Peak was a pretty stiff 5.5

and what was said above about "Norman Clyde 4th class"
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Apr 20, 2011 - 02:46am PT
Cuz Jamcrack had a waiting list of 3 parties this saturday (I wanted to try leading 2nd P for my first 5.9 in Yosemite), friend and I did regular route up Sunnyside bench. I took 5.5 crack variation, and liked it a lot! Walk back after the top out sucked though...
Gal

Trad climber
a semi lucid consciousness
Apr 20, 2011 - 02:51am PT
Oh I have the best time 5.5's!!!! I love to do the Mountaineers Route on Courthouse rock in Arizona. Next ascent is going to be a moonlight ascent!!! It's so fun and chill to be out in the desert. My friends who aren't climbing addicts, but still love getting on moderates, have a blast with-out stress-bottom line, nobody stresses. Love it. And I really like climbers who climb hard and also have a great time on 5.5's-good people those are me thinks!
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Apr 20, 2011 - 03:00am PT
of course.... here are some

White Maiden's Walkway Tahquitz
The Footstool, Right Yosemite Valley
Refuse Cathedral Ledge
Beginner's Route Whitehorse Ledge
RMC Shawangunks
Lake View Shawangunks
Swiss Arete Mt. Sill
Tollhouse Traverse Tollhouse
West Ridge, Pigeon Spire Bugaboos
East Ridge, Bugaboo Spire Bugaboos
Hermaphrodite Flake Tuolumne
Karl Baba

Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
Apr 20, 2011 - 03:22am PT
Gunks has great low rated climbs
ontheedgeandscaredtodeath

Trad climber
San Francisco, Ca
Apr 20, 2011 - 03:25am PT
Loved the CMC route on Mt. Moran.
rgold

Trad climber
Poughkeepsie, NY
Apr 20, 2011 - 09:43am PT
I started out as a mountain scrambler and 54 years later, I've probably done hundreds of climbs from 4th class to 5.5. I think Karl is right about the Gunks, which in my experience has some of the best climbs (well, that is, pitches) in the US at every grade 5.5 and lower.

By the way, those who think these are grades to solo might find themselves rethinking the position on some of the Gunks classics.
Inner City

Trad climber
East Bay
Apr 20, 2011 - 09:44am PT
Finally a thread that speaks to me...love this easy stuff, it's all I can do these days.

Munge, did Old Original at Pinnacles two weeks back. Totally fun.

All those high Sierra classics that have already been mentioned including Conness N. Ridge and Tenaya Peak.

Lone Pine Peak North Ridge is a pretty stout 5.4 if you don't stray to the east side of that ridge as you get close to the top.

Alpine low grade stuff is the best (for a fat dad)

Arrowhead Spire! Yes! First climb I ever did with my now wife...we're heading to East Face of Whitney this summer, 5.7? yikes.
Gary

climber
Desolation Basin, Calif.
Apr 20, 2011 - 10:14am PT
A fall on 5.5 or below is going to be bad, for sure. I was thrilled when I graduated to leading 6s and 7s at Josh. I felt like I could take a short fall and not be crippled for life.
Elcapinyoazz

Social climber
Joshua Tree
Apr 20, 2011 - 10:54am PT
All the time in Joshua Tree.
howlostami

Trad climber
Southern Tier, NY
Apr 20, 2011 - 11:00am PT
Climb 'em?

You bet.

Been sketched out on them?

For sure.

I ain't too proud to admit the truth :)
blahblah

Gym climber
Boulder
Apr 20, 2011 - 11:06am PT
I don't find MANY 5.5's and below...(actually haven't done ANY since I've been here in CO)

But when I do...

HELL YEAH!!!...

I LOVE easy lines...

They're EASY, you're on the rock, you can take a "HIT" anywhere along the way...

What's NOT to enjoy???...

;-)

OK I'll let you in a little secret--there are some obscure, hard to see, poorly documented climbs just W of Boulder, CO that have some pretty good 5.5 and below slab climbs. Don't tell anyone else though, they're kind of "locals only."

Edit:
What does a Gunks 5.5 translate to in actual difficulty?
From what I've seen of the Gunks, grades are generally about same as Eldo or Boulder Canyon (trad, not sport), which are generally about the same as every other old-school trad area. There are a few misgraded climbs in Gunks that just need to be corrected.
tradmanclimbs

Ice climber
Pomfert VT
Apr 20, 2011 - 11:09am PT
It's been so long since I was a gungs reguler (1985ish} the only 5.5 I remember is Horseman. Short but super clean and steep. HE is one of the best 5.6 you will find anywhere. It may be a bit too crowded these days? Red rocks has great 5.6 Never done a 5.5 there but I bet they are good. Seneca has some damn hard 5.5! candy corner comes to mind. Gunsite direct is rated 5.4 and that thing is totally rad! Disclaimer Seneca 5.4 is 5.7 most other places....
Gene

climber
Apr 20, 2011 - 11:21am PT
Tollhouse Traverse, Tenaya Peak, Mt. Conness, Lone Pine Peak, and a bushel of Norman Clyde Class 3 and 4 routes are all wonderful climbs.
Elcapinyoazz

Social climber
Joshua Tree
Apr 20, 2011 - 11:24am PT
East Ridge of Wolfshead in the Winds is pretty cool.
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Apr 20, 2011 - 11:29am PT
I'll chime in on the 'Gunks, I only put a few of those routes 5.5 and below on my list, since the 'Gunks would have dominated the list otherwise...

and soloing there can be interesting, as Richard alludes above. I've done it on a few routes, mostly ok... but there was one, Betty 5.3 I think, that really got me... somewhere on the first or second pitch you're out on a face... I remember it being a little dirty, and then starting to worry about slipping on the dirt, which just destroyed my whole solo psyche. I'm out on this face with part of my brain screaming at me "you're gonna die!" Eventually I got control of part of my brain, pushed that hysterical bit into a corner and got off the face and up into some more featured climbing... mind you this is all 5.3.

I get to a ledge just before the last pitch... a women sitting there initially smiles at me as I come up then panics when she realizes I am climbing solo. I get her to settle down and head off towards here significant-other, who is lost on the pitch... he is surprised to see me too, asking "which way to the top?" They are sort of typical 'Gunks climbers epic-ing on those easier grades.

I say "this way" and head off to the final parts of the pitch, which I recall required some of those exposed, but technically easy moves that seem to be a 'Gunks staple. I hold my concentration together long enough to get on top....
...sit down, take a deep breath, start to remove my shoes and then dissolve into tears when the emotional rush of pulling it off hits me...

...that's a 'Gunks 5.3 solo...
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Apr 20, 2011 - 11:31am PT
Is it still 5.5 if you have to pull on a piece?

that's known as cinq.cinq
rgold

Trad climber
Poughkeepsie, NY
Apr 20, 2011 - 12:07pm PT
Before the modern era of rap descents from almost every climb in the Gunks, often before the top, it used to be standard practice to solo down nearby "easy" routes. Three Pines (nowadays a 5.3) was particularly well-traveled as a descent from the many hard classics on what now is called the Mac Wall, in honor of Jim McCarthy's many contributions to the crag and to that section in particular.

One day Royal Robbins and I were soloing down Three Pines after one of those Mac Wall classics when we encountered a team on its way up. The leader of that team had an absolute fit, and started screaming at us for invading his space. Somehow, he recognized Robbins (who was a national figure in the climbing world at the time) and shrieked, "I don't care if you're king of the universe, you have no effin business climbing unroped on top of a party that's actually safe!"

And he went on and on. Robbins was really taken aback (no doubt he was more used to admiration from other climbers) and apologized quite humbly for passing them. I, having participated in many Vulgarian soloing parties that had swarmed past Appies Being Safe, was somewhat less pleasant, although thinking back with the perspective of experience and time, I wouldn't be pleased about a bunch of soloists climbing down directly over me either.
tradmanclimbs

Ice climber
Pomfert VT
Apr 20, 2011 - 12:32pm PT
I remember if we were down near Directisima HE etc we would down climb an easy chimny. never encountered anyone coming up it. Otherwise we would hike back to the Uberfall enjoying the views and partakeing of the blueberrys along the way. I went back once about a decade ago and it feels like the experience is greatly diminished with all those rap stations.....
mike m

Trad climber
black hills
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 20, 2011 - 01:33pm PT
Moonlight Ridge, Old Peoples Dome, and the first couple of pitches on Patent Pending at the Tower are two more good ones in the Black Hills. I have always wanted to do Blitzen Ridge in RMNP. Here is a picture of Old People's dome which has a route that goes at 5.4
ydpl8s

Trad climber
Santa Monica, California
Apr 20, 2011 - 01:35pm PT
For alpine in Colorado, this one is the best, IMHO

Friedo

Trad climber
South Lake Tahoe
Apr 20, 2011 - 02:00pm PT
Knapsack Crack @ the Leap. Perfect to take first-time multi pitchers up. Super easy with one 5.5 section at the end of the second pitch! I've taken two beginners up this route and they loved it!!!
Brandon-

climber
Done With Tobacco
Apr 20, 2011 - 02:03pm PT
Cathedral Peak is fun. Isn't that right around 5.5?
davidji

Social climber
CA
Apr 20, 2011 - 02:55pm PT
Lots of my favorite climbing was 5.5 and below, and I've made several trips to the mountains where much or all of the climbing was in that range.

In this pic I think I'm climbing Echo Peak #3 from the south side:
BrianH

Trad climber
santa fe
Apr 20, 2011 - 03:01pm PT
This is awesome!

I'm surprised there's only been one mention of Seneca Rocks WV. That's where the Conns got their start (there and Great Falls). Pretty much any of their routes are classic. When me and my first partner (hey Alvin, are you out there?) were teaching ourselves how to lead, we worked through all the ultra-super-mega-classics 5.5 and below. Yes sometimes we got gripped.

"Uh I don't see where the route goes...

Look left, not up!

Oh."

Vestal and the Blitzen Ridge are high on my own tick list.

I like the flow you can get into doing the longer easier routes (mostly because I was never really good enough to do harder routes!).

I wonder if there is a sea change in attitude. When I told somebody that I only did 5.7 and below routes at Red Rocks, she asked "don't you like to challenge yourself?" That seems a very common attitude. It's good to hear people chime up on behalf of the 5.easy routes.
EdBannister

Mountain climber
13,000 feet
Apr 20, 2011 - 03:22pm PT
left ski track, Tahquitz

near vert class three almost...
a bit of a crack, the classic step around,
all doable in your New Balance running shoes at 5.6
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Apr 20, 2011 - 03:25pm PT
Munginella in Yosemite and Deception in Lovers Leap are also couple of fun, well protected, easy climbs. Unicorn and cockscomb are two cool 4th class solos.
JamesG

Trad climber
Thousand Oaks, CA
Apr 20, 2011 - 03:42pm PT
The first trad lead I did without my dad's supervision was on Nutcracker on Cap Rock in JT, probably the closest I've come to killing myself climbing. I didn't realize I should've stayed right longer to actually have some pro for the chimney section, and ended up in groundfall territory towards the top. I should go back and head up that again for nostalgia. Diabetics in Belle campground is also one of my favorite easy climbs for taking new people up, at 5.4 and well featured with a nice, if a bit coarse, crack.

I've had a blast on White Maiden's Walkaway on Tahquitz, and I love to do The Trough just because it's fun to run up, especially the last pitch.
le_bruce

climber
Oakland, CA
Apr 20, 2011 - 03:45pm PT
All of the formations that rim the Budd Lake bowl are 5.5/5.6 paradise - Unicorn, Cockscomb, Echoes, Cathedral. Columbia, Tressider, Tenaya. That region is paradise for the scrambler:






Unicorn:
The scrambles... they're everywhere...
Tfish

Trad climber
La Crescenta, CA
Apr 20, 2011 - 03:47pm PT
I no hands soloed a 3 bolt 5.2 at Alabama Hills. And there is a 3 pitch 5.6 at Texas Canyon that is super fun, the top 2 pitches are like 5.2-5.3.
mike m

Trad climber
black hills
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 20, 2011 - 03:54pm PT
I hear there is a few good ones in the Canadian Rockies.
clode

Trad climber
portland, or
Apr 20, 2011 - 04:03pm PT
Hah! No one mentioned The Cow, Center (5.5) on Glacier Point Apron, climber's left of The Grack (5.6). The crux is the first move off the ground, getting onto the slab and the partly vegetated crack for protection. Few handholds and very slick face to get started, easily a V6 boulder move for sure!

Another is Left Slab Crack at Smith, in the Dihedral area. This climb is 5.4 and one of my favorite at Smith. The problem is so many climbs in that area are full of noobies and communication is difficult at best. You really need to use your partner's name and listen carefully, and answer so that you both know who you are REALLY talking to! Also there's North Face of Independence Tower at Smith, in the Staender's Ridge area (5.5).
Richard

climber
Bend, OR.
Apr 20, 2011 - 04:10pm PT
Clode

Try Round River on Koala Rock. Fun mild climbing to a nice summit with a 5.3 or 5.8 finish
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Apr 20, 2011 - 04:28pm PT
Munginella is 5.6.

DMT


It is a 5.6 (and so is deception), but a good route worth mentioning, and not so hard. I thought I would mention it since people list Swiss Arete 5.7, North Ridge of Conness 5.6 (on the downclimb), and a few others over 5.5. : )

How about full North Arete of Mt. Humphreys (5.5) and East Arete of Carl Heller (cl 4). Those two are my favorite routes so far because doing them as winter climbs added a lot more difficulty to these day hike-able beauties.


me on Humphreys by Mark T.

Carl Heller's east Arete from the summit
Seamstress

Trad climber
Yacolt, WA
Apr 20, 2011 - 04:39pm PT
Round River at Smith is fun and 5.4.

The Grand's Exum is 5.4and one of the most memorable routes for me. It was my first big mountain experience, and I was pregnant with my last baby.

Standard Route on White Horse is 5.5 with a multitude of variations.

One of our favortie, make the best of a pouring day routes on Cathedral is Upper Refuse. Yes, it is almost fun to do that in a deluge.

I call those routes 5.Fun.
JEleazarian

Trad climber
Fresno CA
Apr 20, 2011 - 04:55pm PT
Old Original, The Sponge, North and South Finger, Chockstone Dome, H&L and Elephant Rock at Pinnacles, Tollhouse Traverse, Tenaya Peak, Arrowhead Spire, The Footstool (Right), Sunnyside Bench (Regular and Waterfall Routes), East Arete of Church Tower, SW Arete Right of Lower Brother in the Valley, and many more were highly enjoyable and, in my decrepit state, satisfying now.

John
Steven Amter

climber
Washington, DC
Apr 20, 2011 - 06:11pm PT
I am biased of course, but most of the best 5.5 and under routes I have ever encountered were in the gunks, tho' some have been substantially upgraded since the 1970s... note that a 5.3 ("Andrew," I think)once was the cover shot of magazine (Mountain?).

Also, some of the greatest routes of my life were gunks moonlight solos in the under 5.5 range - totally magical.

Although slightly harder than 5.5, I should think that "Wolfshead" in the Wind River range belongs near the top of anyone's list. Ditto for the Northeast Ridge of Bugaboo Spire in the Canadian Rockies (Might have been rated 5.7, but would have been rated lower in a lot of other areas, in my opinion.)
Brandon-

climber
Done With Tobacco
Apr 20, 2011 - 06:15pm PT
Also, some of the greatest routes of my life were gunks moonlight solos in the under 5.5 range - totally magical.

Kindergarten Cracks on Donner are fun on a full moon as well.
Quasimodo

Trad climber
CA
Apr 20, 2011 - 07:11pm PT
I loved watching Bacher and Croft free solo in JT. My first insight free solo was The Eye on Cyclops.....the top crack felt like 5.0c not 5.0. My next onsight solo was Robo Ranger on Sports Challenge.....definately 5.5. There are a lot of easy climbs that are fun. I don't really understand the competitive climber who always must climb really hard and spend the day dogging a route. Not much fun movement in hang dogging. It looks frustrating. Moving smooth and fast over beautiful rock is so much fun!

One of my friends asked me if I climbed harder when I was younger. I said, "No, I always sucked at climbing.". I don't really care about the grade much I focus on finding classic lines, great moves, good rock, the experience and the exposure.
squishy

Mountain climber
sacramento
Apr 20, 2011 - 07:43pm PT
knapsack crack, 5.4...and a fun and easy solo...

anything on the hogsback really...
goatboy smellz

climber
Nederland
Apr 20, 2011 - 07:46pm PT
From the east face of Mickey Mouse Wall to Kiener's Route up on Longs, about 2,642 routes...only three of them are good tho...


bluering

Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
Apr 20, 2011 - 07:50pm PT
knapsack crack, 5.4...and a fun and easy solo...

I was waiting for someone to mention that. My first trad lead. Cruiser climbing and sucks gear off the rack. Perfect new trad leader stuff.
213

climber
Where the Froude number often >> 1
Apr 21, 2011 - 04:14am PT
A fantastic grade offering some superb routes and rock quality. Its cool since it allows for classic solo climbing or if your friends so desire, break out the ropes and a light rack and take some people up to places they'd never expect to go. But the good routes are so bomber just leave the gear and float through the hills!

Some of my favorites:

Southeast Ridge of Mount Emerson (II 5.4). Really cool route to solo with your friends. Go do it, you will not be disappointed.

I repeat: not be disappointed...

The South Face of Mount Clarence King (I 5.4). The move is so cool. Trust in Jah. The feeling of the pulling onto the summit and soaking up the views was nothing short of clarity. My first soloing experience in the mountains...a whole new world opened. Camping high in the Sixty Lakes Basin is highly recommended.

North Arete of North Cotter (II 5.4). Photo in Fiddler and Moynier will get you stoked! Really cool (and big) exposure in a fantastic setting! Maybe the best pitch of 5.4 arete climbing ever...

Praise Jah atop Cotter! Don't forget a fishing rod!

Horse Creek Spire S Ridge (I 5.4, mostly fun 4th with techy top out, do I get a neon bonus for my hat/running shoe combo?):

Kindergarten-High (I 5.5). 250' of easy granite glory on Donner Summit. Do first pitch corner on Kindergarten then float right into the upper face zone of Junior High. All season climbing, and one of the finest easy solo linkups (especially adding in Junior High 5.6), you can log an easy 2k of perfect moevement over stone in a morning here easy.
Cruisin the corner in late low-snow November

Funny how in summer and fall this is a boardshorts-only lap-fest in the sun!!!

If you don't feel like solo downclimbing 5.6 and aren't bothered by some quick rappin, bring a skinny rope and hit the North Ridge of Conness, no more than 4th class, but definitely getting towards world class if you link with NW Ridge of North Peak (I 5.3) (and more so if you add in the West Ridge, this is on the list for triple doubles this year)

Say what?! Thanks North Peak, for another sidewalk of the Sierra!

And finally, one of the ultimate beach-to-beach-via-granite-glory cruises to do with your friends, Tenaya Peak (II 5.5):
Tom

Big Wall climber
San Luis Obispo CA
Apr 21, 2011 - 06:47am PT
My first trad climb in the Valley was Aunt Fanny's Pantry, and 5.3 was not too stiff for a couple of teen brothers. Because it was at the "Church Bowl", Mom let us do it without a guide.

Later that day, I flailed and backed off of Church Bowl Chimney, at 5.6. My excuse is I was too short for the wide chimney.

Getting to the top of the traverse pitches on RA, and then bailing, was a real high point of our trip.
Mad69Dog

Mountain climber
Superior, CO
Apr 21, 2011 - 10:47am PT
I think the NFace of Long's Peak is 5.4. The last time I did it, the face was covered in ice and I didn't have tools or crampons. That's the hardest 5.4 I've ever soloed. I'd rate it 3 Pound Hammer/16 Penny Nail.

Does 5.5 A2 count as a 5.5? I still have a tic in my face over that one.
Mark Hudon

Trad climber
Hood River, OR
Apr 21, 2011 - 11:15am PT
Horseman, 5.4, The Gunks, Awesome route!
GOclimb

Trad climber
Boston, MA
Apr 21, 2011 - 11:27am PT
Lots of folks are mentioning High E and Horseman at the Gunks. Both excellent climbs, but I think the best bang for your buck at 5.5 or under at the Gunks is Yum Yum Yab Yum. Honestly only 5.3 moves, but total 5.10 exposure.

Pitch 1 of YYYY is forgettable, but the rest of the climb is superb. Typical spicy Gunks face climbing leading to an overhanging corner on jugs leading to mind-blowing hand traverse under a big roof. With huge air under your ass, big handholds, reasonable footholds, and all the gear you could want.

About as good as it gets for 5.3.

GO
squishy

Mountain climber
sacramento
Apr 21, 2011 - 11:45am PT
I loved Tenaya Peak, one of the best days out I have ever had...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ef2c1DUrCeo
mike m

Trad climber
black hills
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 21, 2011 - 11:53am PT
213 awsome pictures.

Yeah everybody has climbed 5.6, but you have to be bold to climb 5.5 and below(well at least climb 5.5 and below and write about it on the internet).
neversummer

Trad climber
30 mins. from suicide USA
Apr 21, 2011 - 11:53am PT
"easy day" at josh 5.4.....felt a little tougher to me though..but i suck
Beatrix Kiddo

Mountain climber
ColoRADo
Apr 21, 2011 - 12:40pm PT
Happiness is 1000' of 5.5! I love that style of climbing, especially in an alpine setting.

<ahhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh>
Karl Baba

Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
Apr 23, 2011 - 05:19am PT
By the way, those who think these are grades to solo might find themselves rethinking the position on some of the Gunks classics.

I'll say. I've free soloed onsight loads of 5.7 but I got put on a 5.7 at the gunks that would have had to be 11+ if it was on Yosemite Granite (Yellow corner?) big ass roof but there'sa big handlebar hold you naturally find. I'd crap my pants onsighting that without a rope!
Captain...or Skully

climber
My ready room
Apr 23, 2011 - 09:32am PT
Stellar pics, 213!!!
Oh, yeah.
Inner City

Trad climber
East Bay
Apr 23, 2011 - 10:04am PT
Great Pics and comments. I love this thread! So much good stuff that is not hard.

Round River at Smith, yes!
rhyang

climber
SJC
Apr 23, 2011 - 10:14am PT
Liberty Bell, Becky Route .. 5.6 but mostly easier, North Cascades National Park

Lots of fun easy stuff on Herring Creek Dome (off Sonora Pass Hwy)

Eichorn Pinnacle, North Face (5.4)
(combine with West Face of Cathedral Peak, 4th class)

Cosmic Wall, Mt. Hubris (Castle Crags State Park)
(5.6 again, but again mostly easier)

Hard to beat the views while soloing Tenaya Peak

Stemwinder (5.4), Thor Peak

Laurel Mtn, NE Gully (5.2)
(fantastic geology)

First Sister, West Face (5.5) Pinnacles National Monument

North Peak, NW Ridge (5.3)

Bear Creek Spire, NE Ridge (easy fifth)

Mt. Conness, West Ridge -- another 5.6 with mostly easier moves

Costanoan (5.4) -- the Citadel, Pinnacles National Monument

Tollhouse Traverse -- one of the best 5.5's in CA
couchmaster

climber
pdx
Apr 23, 2011 - 11:51am PT
Tiptoe ridge (Tiptoe spire?) in Arapiles is 1300' long, very solid rock, amazing free solo, goes at 5.5.

I rapped that Becky route Ryang mentions on Liberty Bell after climbing up the other side and it looks great! I'm saving it till I get old(er).
tom Carter

Social climber
Apr 23, 2011 - 12:04pm PT
Beautiful Photos!

When Don Lauria turned 55 we had a Birthday Party at his place in Bishop.

Someone made a T-shirt for him that read... "Five Five can be tricky".

Bet Don has a photo somewhere?
Slater

Trad climber
Central Coast
Apr 23, 2011 - 12:45pm PT
KERNVILLE LIEBACK 5.5

did anyone mention that one?

The cleanest 5.5 lieback of the grade in the state. Laser.
Combine with Tree Route on Dome Rock and that's a fun trip.

Cathedral Range (Toulumne) & Conness N. Ridge were memorable also.
HighTraverse

Trad climber
Bay Area
Apr 23, 2011 - 01:44pm PT
BUMP for Exum Ridge on the Grand
A fine mountaineering outing with spectacular location. Never harder than 5.5, never just a walk. Several "don't fall here" places. Non-trivial descent.
The usual warnings and disclaimers apply.
ruppell

climber
Apr 23, 2011 - 02:19pm PT
For stuff in the Gunks

Frogs Head 5.5 hands down the best climb of that grade there.

For Stuff in CA

Anything in the Sierra's with Clydes name on it. Picture the east ridge of Humphreys. Ever wonder why the call it the little sub summit "married mans summit".
ydpl8s

Trad climber
Santa Monica, California
Apr 23, 2011 - 02:30pm PT
Sung to the tune of "Hi Ho" from Snow White

Five five, five five,
I just fell off five five,
It's not too hard,
But I'm a lard,
Five five, five five!
Brandon-

climber
Done With Tobacco
Apr 23, 2011 - 02:52pm PT
I love moderately technical routes that get me to spectacular places. Weeds out the tourons and makes for a beautiful place to burn one.
Iron Mtn.

Trad climber
Riverside, Ca.
Apr 24, 2011 - 03:37am PT
I've always had a fondness for The Lark (5.3) at Tahquitz. A very adventurous undertaking with lots of exposure, route finding and steepness packed in 7 or 8 pitches.

Another cool sub-5.5 climb is the Tooth in the Washington Cascades, killer hike to a saddle then 4 pitches of 5.fun to a beautiful summit with view of the entire range.

The Tree Route at Dome Rock also gets a HUGE thumbs up. Every pitch is memorable in it's own way. I love the impossible looking last pitch which looks like a 5.11 but is more like 5.0........
Disaster Master

Social climber
Born in So-Cal, left my soul in far Nor-Cal.
Apr 24, 2011 - 03:42am PT
I'm down to 5.me
KyleO

Gym climber
Calgary, AB
Apr 24, 2011 - 08:19am PT

NW ridge (left skyline) of Sir Donald is 5.5
jogill

climber
Colorado
Apr 24, 2011 - 07:45pm PT
One should not be intimidated by the lack of difficulty . . .
Gilroy

Social climber
Boulderado
Apr 24, 2011 - 08:31pm PT
Thanks to jogill and ydpl8s for the inspiration to push on through the grades.


Gelsa 5.4
Jennie

Trad climber
Elk Creek, Idaho
Apr 24, 2011 - 09:56pm PT
Great photos.

Is NW ridge of Sir Donald 5.5 Kyle? I climbed the ridge with my dad in my late teens. I remember very steep steps and high exposure but no climbing much higher than class 4 or low 5.0. Maybe we weren’t on the traditional route (??)
TGT

Social climber
So Cal
Apr 24, 2011 - 09:59pm PT
It may be 5.5 now.

I haven't chimed in because all may favorite 5.4's and 5.5's are now 5.6 or better.
Mighty Hiker

climber
Vancouver, B.C.
Apr 24, 2011 - 10:15pm PT
You can call it anything from class 3 to 5.5. Partly depending on conditions, style, fitness, and experience, a bit depending on route. In good conditions, it's a generic "class 5".

It's a long climb to do in a day, roped-up.
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Apr 24, 2011 - 10:17pm PT
I love easy, long routes. The Exum Ridge on the Grand is a favorite- probably climbed it 50 times.
mike m

Trad climber
black hills
Topic Author's Reply - May 2, 2011 - 07:40pm PT
There is a great 3 pitch 5.2 that goes up the center formation.
scuffy b

climber
dissected alluvial deposits, late Pleistocene
May 2, 2011 - 07:42pm PT
If it ever looks like it's going to be 5.6 or easier, I just skip that part.
Michelle

Social climber
Candy Mountain
May 3, 2011 - 04:05am PT

omg, a thread about my climbing mission! I for years I was in the search of easy climbs that were fun and in beautiful places. I wish I had pictures of a couple of the other places I found.

gonamok

climber
dont make me come over there
May 3, 2011 - 08:20pm PT
hell yea, the sierra is a wonderland of easy 5th class climbing and any of it is great. White maidens on tahquitz is a classic. Easy climbs rule
Gene

climber
May 3, 2011 - 08:25pm PT
The real question, of course, is 5.5 or below with a less than a 20 minute approach.
caughtinside

Social climber
Davis, CA
May 3, 2011 - 08:34pm PT
Lots of that in Joshua Tree... it's much more fun if you just call it 3rd class.
Michelle

Social climber
Candy Mountain
May 4, 2011 - 06:24pm PT
I'm with Gene!
Guck

Trad climber
Santa Barbara, CA
May 6, 2011 - 11:31am PT
I usually skip those climbs, but take note of the good ones as I want to have fun climbing in my eighties.
EdBannister

Mountain climber
13,000 feet
May 6, 2011 - 11:54am PT
Rick Carlson did the trough at Big Rock (5.5 or 5.6) in roller skates.
The angle of the brake pad matched the low angle of the slab, or so he reasoned... he put those babies on, and walked up the 150 feet.
tom Carter

Social climber
May 28, 2011 - 06:48pm PT
Ed - There must be photos of that feat somewhere???
mike m

Trad climber
black hills
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 1, 2012 - 11:06pm PT
Anybody climbed some good easy rock routes lately. No trips to Custer State Park this year but did solo some easy spires and cracks about a half hour bush whack west of Mt. Rushmore sort of to the south east of Oltons Shoulder.Though a little hard for this thread the Beckey route on Ambush in the Winds is a very cool route. It is really only one long pitch but ha a 600-700 foot approach that is occasionaly in the 5.5 range but on beautiful rock with wildflowers growing all over it. It then has a stout long 5.6 pitch with great crack climbing inside a huge chimney. You then finish with a thousand feet more of occasionally 5.5 terrain. You finish right on top of the tower. Many hundreds of possibilities to climb on the upper part of the route we did not rope up for the top but going one way or the other could have easily gotten us into terrain that would have been more challanging. I would immagine the Wind River Range has about as much good terrain in this range as about anywhere.
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Jan 2, 2012 - 01:06am PT
fun sorta less than 5.5 climb you all should do someday

a video
Smoke's Rock Course

Moof

Big Wall climber
Orygun
Jan 2, 2012 - 01:37am PT
Right On - Burly 5.5
Eye - would be 5.6 at any more recent crag
Bong is a great 5.4, and my go to example of what a 5.4 should feel like
Knapsack crack is a great 5.3, no matter what Chris Mac tries to rate it
Upper Right Ski Track is best done New Years Eve, after hazing the rangers of course
I could go on...
KabalaArch

Trad climber
Starlite, California
Jan 2, 2012 - 01:51am PT
Maybe I missed it, but the Burnette Bolts (aka "Salathe Bolts") Pinnacles NM boasts a technical rating of 5.6. Bill R's observation was that you had to be a very solid .10a climber to lead it, notwithstanding; this was my 2nd climb and on my very first day. A Best Partner named Tom Carter led it...1975 or so; we went on to form friends in High Places together from frankly humble beginnings at Indian Rock, Berkeley.

I've already posted about whom I think was the FA: Floyd Burnette.

I was too stupid to be 'scared...at least of anything or anyone but my Leader!

About 1975. Never looked back, although I now wished I'd done so.
rgold

Trad climber
Poughkeepsie, NY
Jan 2, 2012 - 01:51pm PT
Here's my 5.5 and below Gunks list. But there is an explosion of good routes if you bump up to 5.6!

Trapps 5.5
Horseman
Jackie with second pitch of Classic
Middle Earth
Ursula

Trapps 5.4
Andrew
Hawk
Sixish

Trapps 5.3
Beginner's Delight
Minty

Trapps 5.2
Northern Pillar

Near Trapps 5.5
Layback

Near Trapps 5.4
Gelsa

Near Trapps 5.3
Yum Yum Yab Yum (maybe should be 5.4?)

Millbrook 5.5
Old Route (For the history---this is where it all started in the Gunks with Fritz Wiessner's 1935 ascent. In retrospect, not a classic but still worth the experience. While you are plugging your hand-size cams in, remember Fritz had a few blade pitons and maybe the equivalent of a 3/4" angle, a hemp rope, rope-soled shoes (espradrilles), and two inexperienced climbers for companions. There would have been absolutely no possibility of any help if the party got into any kind of trouble.

Don't be too surprised if the climbing starts to feel more like 5.7---I didn't found a 5.5 way up it when I did it...)
Mark Hudon

Trad climber
Hood River, OR
Jan 2, 2012 - 02:08pm PT
Horseman has to be the best 5.5 in the world! When Kauk went to the Gunks way back when, I told him not be dumb and climb only hard routes and not to miss Horseman, High E and Shockley's Ceiling.
mike m

Trad climber
black hills
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 11, 2013 - 12:33am PT
5.5 and under is the new 5.8 once retro bolted bump.
WyoRockMan

climber
Flank of the Big Horns
Dec 11, 2013 - 05:10pm PT
Mike- Thanks for suggesting the Conn on Aquarium this summer. A great route I would have overlooked otherwise. Fun romp.

rmuir

Social climber
From the Time Before the Rocks Cooled.
Dec 12, 2013 - 06:17pm PT
Wolf's Head Arête, fer sure. Slightly harder--though for only for a few moves--the East Face of Mt. Whitney. ...soloed that several times.
hobo_dan

Social climber
Minnesota
Dec 12, 2013 - 06:56pm PT
1st pitch up to McCarthy North Face
3rd FlatIron
Curt

climber
Gold Canyon, AZ
Dec 12, 2013 - 07:25pm PT

Just another 5.4 in the Gunks.

Curt
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Dec 12, 2013 - 08:13pm PT
Nice- Lots of splendid overhanging moderate routes there!
squishy

Mountain climber
Dec 12, 2013 - 08:19pm PT
Walk back after the top out sucked though...

lol....

pussy
speelyei

Trad climber
Mohave County Arizona
Dec 12, 2013 - 08:20pm PT
Yep.

The Trough at Tahquitz comes to mind...
mike m

Trad climber
black hills
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 12, 2013 - 08:26pm PT
Cosmic come up to the needles sometime and there are hundreds on low fifth class routes with terrific summits. I think you would have a blast. You can fly to Rapid City from Vegas for as cheap as 40 or 50 bucks on allegiant sometimes.
10b4me

Ice climber
Bishop/Flagstaff
Dec 12, 2013 - 09:17pm PT

What's neat is, since the injuries I've gotten over the last 15 years,
I have gotten to climb a lot of the easier climbs I didn't do back in the 70s and 80s.
I was climbing the, Grades, back then, and now I am climbing to have fun, and enjoying the
Peace, Vertical ground brings to me.

+1
Q- Ball

Mountain climber
where the wind always blows
Dec 12, 2013 - 10:54pm PT
I was eight years old and got top-roped up a 5.9, the next pitch was a 5.4 slab.
I had to be hauled up it in the rain!

Many years later I bailed on some desert 5.5 friction routes in Wyo.



Chiloe

Trad climber
Lee, NH
Dec 13, 2013 - 01:54am PT
When you're far from the trade routes and not climbing granite, every now and then you find a 5.5 pitch that is just freaking desperate. No pro and holds breaking and you hope you're gonna live to reach that next ledge.
Reilly

Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
Dec 13, 2013 - 02:11am PT
^^^^^ 5.5? How about fourth class and you're terrified the rope is gonna dislodge one of the
dominoes that will bring the whole pitch down?
Gerg

Trad climber
Calgary
Dec 13, 2013 - 02:20am PT
mike m,
So you live in the Black Hills, what a wonderful place to climb. We did a family trip there couple summers back, camped at Sylvan Lake, climbed about. I would love to go there as a more serious climbing trip, its just a fun area.
We met John Biddick and his tall friend one day in the Needle parking lot, gosh they were super funny, and seemed mega stoked to be out in the Hills, enjoying summer. We were on a tower and we could hear those two laughing crazily from some tower in the woods.
mike m

Trad climber
black hills
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 2, 2014 - 10:49pm PT
There are 5.5 here that are not easy even though they have good gear and rock. The exposure and summits are awesome. Many times the exposure freaks people out even though a bomber hold awaits around the corner or you have to be very creative about gear. This place forces you to do that most essential skill of climbing: going just a little farther than it seemed prudent just a few feet back.
Climberdude

Trad climber
Fresno, CA
Apr 2, 2014 - 11:08pm PT
I hear you regarding the 5.5 and below in the Needles area. I did a climbing trip last August specifically to climb the Conn routes in the Black Hills rope solo. Wow, the Conns were way ahead of their time. Their climbs are very bold, so the ratings do not feel the same as other areas. I even backed off of a 5.0 climb, not because I did not think I could do it, but because the route, which I knew I was on route, took me into some really crazy territory.

I have done many sub 5.6 routes at the Black Hills, Seneca Rock, and the Gunks. The ratings of these climbs are in a group of their own and cannot be compared to ratings in other areas. I do not know exactly what it is (actually it is due all of these), but the boldness, protection (lack thereof), and exposure all contribute to put the ratings in these areas into a class of their own. I could be gripped out of my mind just as much on a 5.5 and below in these areas as a 5.9 or higher climb in other areas.
ß Î Ø T Ç H

Boulder climber
extraordinaire
Apr 2, 2014 - 11:12pm PT
Took a single lap on one of my old routes from like 20 years ago - had to reverse moves etc to get psyche, and no idea of how to get back down. [Click to View YouTube Video]
Lorenzo

Trad climber
Oregon
Apr 2, 2014 - 11:59pm PT
Gunks.

Horseman. 5.4
ruppell

climber
Apr 3, 2014 - 12:05am PT
I used to all the time when I lived in the Gunks. Third classes the classics Monday morning after a Sunday late day T-storm was very rewarding.
Lorenzo

Trad climber
Oregon
Apr 3, 2014 - 12:09am PT
gunks
Double chin5.5
ruppell

climber
Apr 3, 2014 - 12:12am PT
Lorenzo

Got any pics of Gelsa? That has got to be the steepest 5.4 in the US.
Lorenzo

Trad climber
Oregon
Apr 3, 2014 - 12:12am PT
Gunks

High corner 5.5

Lorenzo

Trad climber
Oregon
Apr 3, 2014 - 12:18am PT
Here ya go

gelsa

[youtube=http://youtu.be/W3v1WowqySU]
Lorenzo

Trad climber
Oregon
Apr 3, 2014 - 12:25am PT
Gunks

Disneyland 5.5

[youtube=http://youtu.be/8vZ-Xnsfr3k]

Crux about :55 in
StahlBro

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
Apr 3, 2014 - 12:26am PT
Lorenzo

Trad climber
Oregon
Apr 3, 2014 - 12:34am PT
Gunks


Shockley's ceiling

Stretch yourself. One well protected 5.6 move


Better yet, do it in the preferred style...naked

Michelle

Social climber
1187 Hunterwasser
Apr 3, 2014 - 12:47am PT
Is repeating your own route after having forgotten it like a born-again first ascent?
Lorenzo

Trad climber
Oregon
Apr 3, 2014 - 12:48am PT
gunks.

Self explanatory

Lorenzo

Trad climber
Oregon
Apr 3, 2014 - 12:50am PT
Is repeating your own route after having forgotten it like a born-again first ascent?

Had that experience with JStan


Him: " good climb. who put this up?"

Me: "Um... You, John."

Him: " did I like it the first time?"
ruppell

climber
Apr 3, 2014 - 12:55am PT
What, no line for Pink Laurel? Never mind I just forgot this was the under 5.5 thread. lol
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Apr 3, 2014 - 12:58am PT
Did a 5.4 yesterday.

Dusty eyes. It's a diagonal in the Smoke Bluffs. I wanted to practice following on traversing terrain. It's got a couple good moves on it, and a scary mantle at the top. Especially when limited by your gri gri and a clove hitch! Lol

Hi Mike!
Lorenzo

Trad climber
Oregon
Apr 3, 2014 - 12:59am PT
Gunks

Blueberry ledges 5.5

Michelle

Social climber
1187 Hunterwasser
Apr 3, 2014 - 01:00am PT
Awesome!
GDavis

Social climber
SOL CAL
Apr 3, 2014 - 01:14am PT
One morning before work in Idyllwild I climbed White Maiden, the Trough and Fingertip Traverse (w/slab finish). A good morning at about 15 pitches of 5.5, only took an hour forty five too...
Lorenzo

Trad climber
Oregon
Apr 3, 2014 - 01:31am PT
gunks

Layback 5.5

Lorenzo

Trad climber
Oregon
Apr 3, 2014 - 01:36am PT
gunks

Easy overhang 5.2 ( I can't make this stuff up)

mike m

Trad climber
black hills
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 3, 2014 - 01:40am PT
Big mike what's up. Good to see you are getting out. Been winter around here a lot but supposed to be upper 60's by early next week.
Reilly

Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
Apr 3, 2014 - 01:42am PT
Are all Gunkies like evangelicals?
Lorenzo

Trad climber
Oregon
Apr 3, 2014 - 03:02am PT
nah.

Seneca rocks

Thais 5.5

tradmanclimbs

Ice climber
Pomfert VT
Apr 3, 2014 - 06:30am PT
how about Gunsire direct 5.4 @ seneca:)
anita514

Gym climber
Great White North
Apr 3, 2014 - 09:36am PT
Easy O was my first climb at the Gunks.
I was crying on the second pitch :(
kaholatingtong

Trad climber
Nevada City
Apr 3, 2014 - 11:39am PT
great collection of classics here, with nothing visual to add I will just say I quite enjoy moving effortlessly over beautiful rock as well.
Todd Eastman

climber
Bellingham, WA
Apr 3, 2014 - 12:27pm PT
Granite is generally pretty dull climbing at the easier grades, the rock (wicked hard sandstone) at Seneca and the Gunks allows quality climbing at those easier grades.
Anastasia

climber
Home
Apr 3, 2014 - 12:39pm PT
Yes and looking forward to doing it again. Best stuff ever to get back in shape and enjoy, also great for injuries, learning, children and old ladies like me, etc. Don't knock those important building blocks. Some of us can't jump onto a hard climb off the couch. I am for sure one of them. :)
DesertRatExpeditions

Trad climber
Flagstaff, Arizona
Apr 3, 2014 - 01:37pm PT
Awesome 5.5 in Phoenix. Hanging Gardens on Gardener's Wall in the McDowells. Never thought I would enjoy a 5.5 so much.
HighTraverse

Trad climber
Bay Area
Apr 3, 2014 - 02:11pm PT
Granite is generally pretty dull climbing at the easier grades
Whooo boy, you need to expand your horizons.
Upthread someone mentioned Upper Exum Ridge on the Grand Teton.
Several pitches of quality granite of every configuration: face, chicken heads, crack, dihedral, knife edge ridge.
Never dull, magnificent setting topping out at 13,700 feet. Challenging approach and descent "for the grade".
There are dozens of great 5.5 and easier routes on granite in the Sierra, the Tetons and Wasatch. Some on roadside crags or within 2 hours of the car, many on high peaks. And these are just the places I've climbed. I'd still love to get into the Wind Rivers.

Yes the Gunks (and I suppose Seneca) have great steep short climbs. I find a long, aesthetic easy route much more engaging than even a brilliant one pitch wonder.

Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Apr 3, 2014 - 03:55pm PT
Hey Mike! I'm good! I see you've been out on the ice lots this winter!

Here is the 5.6 pitch on Calculus Crack i led yesterday. It's perfect fist size for me.

anita514

Gym climber
Great White North
Apr 3, 2014 - 03:57pm PT
looks sweet
I can't wait to go out to Squamish!
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Apr 3, 2014 - 04:01pm PT
We'd love to have ya!!
mike m

Trad climber
black hills
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 3, 2014 - 04:56pm PT
That Calculus Crack Looks awesome.
Off White

climber
Tenino, WA
Apr 3, 2014 - 05:10pm PT
The Great Arch on Stone Mountain in North Carolina is certainly one of the great 5.5's in this country. Three pitches of pure joy. I did it a couple years back as my daughter's first multi pitch route.





Be wary of class 4 in the Olympics though. The definition "use of rope but place no protection" has nothing to do with the difficulty, just the question of there actually being any protection...
anita514

Gym climber
Great White North
Apr 3, 2014 - 05:22pm PT
horseman
classic
anita514

Gym climber
Great White North
Apr 3, 2014 - 05:24pm PT
catharsis on Poke-O

anita514

Gym climber
Great White North
Apr 3, 2014 - 05:39pm PT
is that to the left of Arch?
I won't even pretend to know
rgold

Trad climber
Poughkeepsie, NY
Apr 3, 2014 - 06:10pm PT
Middle Earth. Not left of Arch.
martygarrison

Trad climber
Washington DC
Apr 3, 2014 - 06:21pm PT
5.5 and below. I am sure I have climbed tons of it but nothing sticks out. If I remember correctly 5.6 or 7 was my first climb. Bench Jamcrack. We banged pins in for protection and put in an additional 1/4 inch bolt at the belay after the first pitch. I'm not sure if the bolt was needed or we just want to practice how to drill one. The bolt was there and used for years. Little do we know this would be such a classic climb.
martygarrison

Trad climber
Washington DC
Apr 3, 2014 - 06:36pm PT
DMT, forgot about those. Hawkmans was a great climb as well as the EB of El Cap. Never been on Conness. Hawkmans is a true badass Valley climb top to bottom. Scary as hell coming off Michaels ledge.
splitclimber

climber
Sonoma County
Apr 3, 2014 - 06:43pm PT
Fist sister at Pinnacles is a fun climb and good way to feel out the choss at Pinnacles.

The easies on echo peak, esp, #4 ? is good fun on amazing granite.

bluering

Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
Apr 3, 2014 - 07:37pm PT
Another TacoHead and myself got bored and put up this 5.2R/X junk-show;


One pitch 2 pieces of shitty pro that prolly wouldn't hold a fall. "Just don't fall, bro" is my mantra on terrain like this...

Aquarian Valley, Skyline Blvd. I forget what we named it. Something about 'ticks'. It has a rap anchor.
Wade Icey

Trad climber
www.alohashirtrescue.com
Apr 3, 2014 - 07:42pm PT
I'm working my way down through the grades.
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Apr 3, 2014 - 07:44pm PT
Did the Upper Exum Ridge on the Grand many times in my guiding days....great climb that can get a wee bit crowded.
bluering

Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
Apr 3, 2014 - 07:48pm PT
Wade, bra, I'll take ya out and show you our above route. It finishes on a nice ledge, perfect for having some beers and taking in some awesome views.

The other side of this route is the best slab route on Skyline called, Cranberries (5.9). And there are some .10's too.
Michelle

Social climber
1187 Hunterwasser
Apr 3, 2014 - 08:07pm PT
I need to go on that trip.
jstan

climber
Apr 5, 2014 - 04:48pm PT
Many years ago I promulgated a scenario in which Jim McCarthy was unable to remember he had done the FA of a climb they were about to do. Above I find the following.

Is repeating your own route after having forgotten it like a born-again first ascent?

Had that experience with JStan


Him: " good climb. who put this up?"

Me: "Um... You, John."

Him: " did I like it the first time?"

Lorenzo

There is a lesson here. It is well for us carefully to watch what we do. There is no telling what will be done with us.
Lorenzo

Trad climber
Oregon
Apr 5, 2014 - 10:12pm PT
There is a lesson here. It is well for us carefully to watch what we do. There is no telling what will be done with us.

It's OK, John. It happens to all of us.

I can't remember what climb it was.
Wayno

Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
Apr 6, 2014 - 03:35am PT
The Iota. Reeds.
mark miller

Social climber
Reno
Apr 6, 2014 - 04:12am PT
Most of Roper's 4th class routes in the Green guide to the Sierra's were 5.5 or 5.9ish. Suffered on so many and yet they are some of my best memories..
Yeah I've fallen my way up .11' and a few.12's but 4000 of 5.3 can't be beat for the scenery or fun.
bluering

Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
Apr 6, 2014 - 10:03am PT
I need to go on that trip.


Michelle, you are definitely invited, I'll call when we go. My other buddy, Ez, was saying he wants to get back out there. Lots of good stuff that not a lot of people know about.

Almost always have the place to ourselves.
mike m

Trad climber
black hills
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 5, 2014 - 07:06pm PT
Love this one. Wolfs Head. Mostly below 5.5.
mike m

Trad climber
black hills
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 19, 2015 - 08:43am PT
Anyone climbed any easy ones lately?
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Aug 19, 2015 - 08:49am PT
Jay Smith and I are going to do a ctc climb of the Wham Ridge on Vestal this Friday.
Ward Trotter

Trad climber
Aug 19, 2015 - 08:56am PT
White Maiden's Walkaway on Tahquitz 8/9/15. I think it's the fourth time I've done this route. This time led beginner/brain cancer survivor on his first multipitch climb. He led pitch 3 in fine fashion.

rgold

Trad climber
Poughkeepsie, NY
Aug 19, 2015 - 10:10am PT
Yum Yum Yab has now been mentioned a few times. Here's Supertopo's own L relaxing on the traverse at the top.

pinckbrown

Trad climber
Woodfords, CA
Aug 19, 2015 - 10:40am PT
Thumbs up for Wham Ridge! Beautiful line!
Did it 46 years ago!
ydpl8s

Trad climber
Santa Monica, California
Aug 19, 2015 - 10:47am PT
Did someone say Vestal? Good stuff!


This one in RMNP is pretty good also.

mike m

Trad climber
black hills
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 19, 2015 - 10:57am PT
Definately want to do Blitzen. Soloed the lower ramp to do Ruper a couple of weeks ago but that seems like it would be a great beginner route. Also need to do the 3rd flatiron again as I have to look at it every time I walk out of my office. I am sure once it cools down some I will start looking at some of the other flatiron classics in this grade. I know you can do the ridge on the First at like 5.4.
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Aug 19, 2015 - 11:01am PT
Yep....looks like we'll have perfect weather for the Wham Ridge. We're going from Molas Pass. Kind of a full day....twenty mile round trip with a fair amount of vertical.
ydpl8s

Trad climber
Santa Monica, California
Aug 19, 2015 - 11:21am PT
Yowsa! Last time I did Wham from Molas I was 35 yrs younger and we took 3 days.
cat t.

climber
california
Aug 19, 2015 - 06:02pm PT
West Ridge of Pigeon Spire in the Bugaboos: 5.4 (but mostly just 4th class), beautiful rock, beautiful views! Perfect solo on a sunny day.
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Aug 20, 2015 - 08:21am PT
Descending one,Walts Wall as we speak
tuolumne_tradster

Trad climber
Leading Edge of North American Plate
Aug 20, 2015 - 08:48am PT
Old Original, Machete Ridge, Pinnacles

L

climber
California dreamin' on the farside of the world..
Aug 21, 2015 - 10:19am PT
Great minds....rgold. I was just going to mention Yum Yum Yab! :-)
Sierra Ledge Rat

Mountain climber
Old and Broken Down in Appalachia
Aug 21, 2015 - 10:28am PT
Beginner's Route Whitehorse Ledge was my first multi-pitch lead about 40 years ago.

Great White Book was my first rock-climb in California about 35 years ago.
Wayno

Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
Aug 21, 2015 - 10:52am PT
The 5.6 part of the Exum on the Grand is very short. The rest is a cake walk and one of the longest "fun" routes that I've been on.
crankster

Trad climber
No. Tahoe
Aug 21, 2015 - 11:09am PT
The NE Ridge of Bear Creek Spire is a lot of fun at 5.5. Not as classic as the 5.8 N. Ridge but well worth it.
The Chief

climber
Lurkerville east of Goldenville
Aug 21, 2015 - 11:16am PT
If anyone has climbed here, they have done many a Classic Route under 5.5:

Sierra Ledge Rat

Mountain climber
Old and Broken Down in Appalachia
Aug 21, 2015 - 11:28am PT
NE Ridge of Bear Creek Spire is a lot of fun at 5.5
When I soloed it, that ridge was class 4
crankster

Trad climber
No. Tahoe
Aug 21, 2015 - 01:19pm PT
SLR..
http://www.supertopo.com/rock-climbing/High-Sierra-Bear-Creek-Spire-Northeast-Ridge
The Chief

climber
Lurkerville east of Goldenville
Aug 21, 2015 - 02:10pm PT
^^^^^^SLR is correct. As it was Class 4 when I first did it back in 1972. When Clyde FA'd it in 1923 and all through the late 90's (Secor 1st and 2nd Ed, Roper's ACG to The High Sierra and both ed's of Moynier/Fiddler's GB's) the route was rated at Class 4.

Beats me who upgraded it. But then that is the sign of the times.

Edit: There are many other Clyde 4th Class routes out there that are definitely stouter and more challenging then the NR of BCS that remain Class 4 to this day. Go figure.
i'm gumby dammit

Sport climber
da ow
Aug 21, 2015 - 02:30pm PT
Norma's Book at COR was listed as 5.5 when we did it.
AP

Trad climber
Calgary
Aug 21, 2015 - 02:36pm PT
Yes, unroped on big alpine north faces with full shank boots and a fairly heavy pack.
NutAgain!

Trad climber
South Pasadena, CA
Aug 21, 2015 - 03:49pm PT
Jaybro, you get more style points for making a video in the middle of your descent and posting it to youtube and then linking in here ;)
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Aug 21, 2015 - 07:01pm PT
Just got back from the Wham Ridge on Vestal. 21.25 miles with 7000 vertical....long day, 12 hours CTC. Fun climb with a little 5.4 which is very solo friendly.
mike m

Trad climber
black hills
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 21, 2015 - 08:19pm PT
Nice Jim. Sousa like a great day. I think I would like to take u up on the black canyon day. Maybe in the spring
surfstar

climber
Santa Barbara, CA
Aug 21, 2015 - 08:52pm PT
Have you climbed 5.5 or below?

Trick question.

We've attempted many 5.4 and 5.5 routes, but they all had 5.6+ moves!

The quote/captions afterwards is always "5.4 my ass"
Sierra Ledge Rat

Mountain climber
Old and Broken Down in Appalachia
Aug 22, 2015 - 04:16am PT
SLR..
supertopo.com/rock-climbing/High-Sierra-Bear-Creek-Spire-Northeast-Ridge

Okay, I figured it was just another "Norman Clyde" class 4.....

I'd be lying if I said that I wasn't scared up there soloing the upper "class 4" section.
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Aug 22, 2015 - 08:14am PT
Spring it is Mike.
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Aug 23, 2015 - 04:42pm PT
Hands/fists/offwidth and rated 5.5.....sounds like a typical Seneca sandbag.
looks easy from here

climber
Ben Lomond, CA
Apr 21, 2017 - 02:07pm PT
My cousin high on p2 of Tollhouse Traverse yesterday:


Since he got p2 I got the mantle. :)

Edit: Got a laugh at this Ed Hartouni line waaay upthread:
"Is it still 5.5 if you have to pull on a piece?"

that's known as cinq.cinq

divad

Trad climber
wmass
Apr 21, 2017 - 04:08pm PT
When I was younger and dumber, my first trip up Boston,5.4+, at the Gunks, was a free solo. At the o/w crux, I remember that it was a bit committing. A couple of years ago, on my second ascent, on lead, I backed off at the crux because I didn't have a big enough piece of gear. Oh, the humility!
Rexi

climber
Apr 21, 2017 - 04:14pm PT
Yep, countless routes :) and some of them are great, exposed, steep but just easily protected and on huge holds. Awesome lines :)
AP

Trad climber
Calgary
Apr 21, 2017 - 04:54pm PT
Anything easier than 5.6 up here is usually death on a stick or at least semi treacherous alpine
Brokedownclimber

Trad climber
Douglas, WY
Apr 21, 2017 - 05:03pm PT
If we can include climbs outside the USA, then the via Normale on Torre Lusy, Cinque Torri makes the cut. First climb I did there with my guide and later my friend Maurizio de Zanna (RIP).

This route is guidebook rated UIAA Grade IV, which translated to 5.5 in my experience. When I first did the route in 1963, it seemed awfully easy. Others have subsequently rated it as high as 5.7, but that's hogwash. It's just another "Old School 5.5."

Here's a photo taken exactly 50 years later--to the exact day: 8 September 2013.





golsen

Social climber
kennewick, wa
Apr 21, 2017 - 08:28pm PT
Good for you Brokedown!

Mike M started this wiht Needles routes. There are some great routes there at lower grades.
c_vultaggio

Trad climber
new york
Apr 22, 2017 - 07:37am PT

jeff constine

Trad climber
Ao Namao
Apr 22, 2017 - 07:50am PT
North Ridge of Lone Pine Peak.
chainsaw

Trad climber
CA
Apr 22, 2017 - 12:37pm PT
Did anybody mention Napsack Crack at The Leap? Free solo laps. Can traverse right onto another route to the right just above the third pitch crux of knapsack. That route is 5.6 or maybe 5.7. A little improbable a ways up. A single small knob handfoot match and standup. Makes for a great variation to knapsack. I dont know if it really takes gear. Never had any on it. And of course, Bear Creek Spire. Sustained ledge to ledge hard class four with many short 5th class boulder problems. Summit traverse on knife edge hands and smear feet way off the deck leads to summit area. 5.6 crack clinb about 17 feet (mandatory down climb on descent) leads to summit block, a refridgerator size wobbler at 13.7k. Marys crack and all the other various ways up Schoolhouse in Donner is good. Third pitch after under roof traverse right gets heady as you bet your life on a medium, well worn chickenhead.
Tom

Big Wall climber
San Luis Obispo CA
Apr 22, 2017 - 09:39pm PT
Everybody has "climbed" below 5.5.

Walking is 1.0

Stumbling on a Trail = 2.0

Scared on a trail - 3.0

A typical approach to a real climb could be 4.0 (or worse)



The first time you got on the rope and on the rock?

PRICELESS



And, that's not really the sort of great memory that you want to degrade by putting a number against it.

StahlBro

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
Apr 23, 2017 - 02:32pm PT
Everyone should do The Unmentionable at leas once. ;-)
divad

Trad climber
wmass
Apr 23, 2017 - 05:41pm PT
looks stiff for a 5.5
i-b-goB

Social climber
Wise Acres
Apr 23, 2017 - 07:17pm PT
I crux at 5.4!
Branscomb

Trad climber
Lander, WY
Apr 24, 2017 - 07:49am PT
5.5a or 5.5d?
Gary

Social climber
Desolation Basin, Calif.
Apr 24, 2017 - 10:54am PT
Four of us traversed Mt. Starr King and it was a great day. Too much fun. We did it as a dayhike from Mono Meadows.
mooch

Trad climber
Tribal Base Camp (Kernville Annex)
Apr 24, 2017 - 11:02am PT
Claustrophobic Crack is a favorite at the Kern Slab


The obvious crack leading up the center of Kern Slab.....

ruppell

climber
Apr 24, 2017 - 11:57am PT
mooch

If you mention 5.5 and kern slabs you have to include The Lieback.
clode

Trad climber
portland, or
Apr 24, 2017 - 12:22pm PT
How about Left Slab Crack at Smith, in the Dihedrals? It's rated 5.4, and takes great gear. A nearly perfect first lead for the aspiring rock climber!

With bolted sport climbs all around, it's often open, even on a busy weekend!
Gary

Social climber
Desolation Basin, Calif.
Apr 24, 2017 - 12:56pm PT
Route 66 on Gilligan's Island at Joashua Tree, best 5.4 in the park. Takes great hands and gear. Beautiful climb.

Scaramouche is a really nice 5.2, deserving of its stars in the guide.
mike m

Trad climber
black hills
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 24, 2017 - 03:11pm PT
Done a bunch in Colorado obviously the flatirons have tons, but the North Ridge of Spearhead is one of the best. Though technically 5.6 it is probably easier than most on this list.
mike m

Trad climber
black hills
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 24, 2017 - 03:29pm PT
I have heard there is a good one on here, but we did the 5.9.
dee ee

Mountain climber
Of THIS World (Planet Earth)
Apr 24, 2017 - 09:39pm PT
I haven't gone through the thread but.......


The Chief at Josh is pretty classic...and yes....5.5.
yanqui

climber
Balcarce, Argentina
Apr 25, 2017 - 04:30am PT
Main Crack at Minnehaha (originally rated 5.4) is an exciting and challenging climb for the grade. Usually toproped, I'm not sure why it's not led more often. Convenience, I suppose. Midway at Castle Rock (also originally rated 5.4), mentioned by Mighty Hiker, was a big deal for me when a friend and I tried it, switching leads, after we'd only been climbing a few months. The North Ridge of Stuart was another standout 5.4, BITD. I can't recall anything in particular \leq 5.5 in Little or Big Cottonwood, but there are a number of good 5.6s, like Steorts' Ridge and Schoolroom.
MikeL

Social climber
Southern Arizona
Apr 25, 2017 - 06:50am PT
Terrific thread.
micronut

Trad climber
Fresno/Clovis, ca
Apr 25, 2017 - 07:53am PT
Have I EVER climbed 5.5 or below?

I USUALLY climb 5.5 or below!

Nearly all of the routes at our local multi pitch crag top out with a pitch of 5.4-5.6 run out face. Here we are this weekend finishing the final pitch of Nuts and Bolts, a fantastic 4 pitch route up at Tollhouse.
(Climbers are Mark Hudon and Macronut)
StahlBro

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
Apr 25, 2017 - 08:35am PT
mike m

Trad climber
black hills
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 25, 2017 - 03:16pm PT
Couldn't find any photos but 11 mile canyon has some great multi pitch routes at 5.5 and under.
mike m

Trad climber
black hills
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 25, 2017 - 03:49pm PT
Ok found some. I think this is 11 mile dome and something staircase which may be 5.6.Giant wacos.
tradmanclimbs

Ice climber
Pomfert VT
Apr 25, 2017 - 04:02pm PT
Skyline arette. 5.6 it has a really cool squeeze tunnel pitch and lots of air
Burnin' Oil

Trad climber
CA
Apr 25, 2017 - 04:05pm PT
StahlBro

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
Apr 25, 2017 - 06:22pm PT
Todd Eastman

climber
Bellingham, WA
Apr 25, 2017 - 09:40pm PT
Great Arch is in North Carolina and listed as 5.5...

... probably 5.9 with NC sandbag factor employed...
Nick Danger

Ice climber
Arvada, CO
Apr 26, 2017 - 06:41am PT
Easy climbs rock! My main man John and I did a multi-pitch 5.5 on Spearhead in RNMP and thought it was one of our most stupid-fun days in the park ever. I would repeat that one in a heartbeat. In my dotage long (or short) walks to easy climbs in an alpine setting are just the bees knees.
NegativeK

climber
Chicago
Apr 26, 2017 - 11:45am PT
Sh#t, I just reset to climbing around 5.5s in Devils Lake. Cleopatra's Needle has at least four named 5.4s to the wobbly block on top -- and I finally got up on it.

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