Have you climbed 5.5 or below?

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Messages 61 - 80 of total 195 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
Seamstress

Trad climber
Yacolt, WA
Apr 20, 2011 - 01:39pm PT
Round River at Smith is fun and 5.4.

The Grand's Exum is 5.4and one of the most memorable routes for me. It was my first big mountain experience, and I was pregnant with my last baby.

Standard Route on White Horse is 5.5 with a multitude of variations.

One of our favortie, make the best of a pouring day routes on Cathedral is Upper Refuse. Yes, it is almost fun to do that in a deluge.

I call those routes 5.Fun.
JEleazarian

Trad climber
Fresno CA
Apr 20, 2011 - 01:55pm PT
Old Original, The Sponge, North and South Finger, Chockstone Dome, H&L and Elephant Rock at Pinnacles, Tollhouse Traverse, Tenaya Peak, Arrowhead Spire, The Footstool (Right), Sunnyside Bench (Regular and Waterfall Routes), East Arete of Church Tower, SW Arete Right of Lower Brother in the Valley, and many more were highly enjoyable and, in my decrepit state, satisfying now.

John
Steven Amter

climber
Washington, DC
Apr 20, 2011 - 03:11pm PT
I am biased of course, but most of the best 5.5 and under routes I have ever encountered were in the gunks, tho' some have been substantially upgraded since the 1970s... note that a 5.3 ("Andrew," I think)once was the cover shot of magazine (Mountain?).

Also, some of the greatest routes of my life were gunks moonlight solos in the under 5.5 range - totally magical.

Although slightly harder than 5.5, I should think that "Wolfshead" in the Wind River range belongs near the top of anyone's list. Ditto for the Northeast Ridge of Bugaboo Spire in the Canadian Rockies (Might have been rated 5.7, but would have been rated lower in a lot of other areas, in my opinion.)
Brandon-

climber
Done With Tobacco
Apr 20, 2011 - 03:15pm PT
Also, some of the greatest routes of my life were gunks moonlight solos in the under 5.5 range - totally magical.

Kindergarten Cracks on Donner are fun on a full moon as well.
Quasimodo

Trad climber
CA
Apr 20, 2011 - 04:11pm PT
I loved watching Bacher and Croft free solo in JT. My first insight free solo was The Eye on Cyclops.....the top crack felt like 5.0c not 5.0. My next onsight solo was Robo Ranger on Sports Challenge.....definately 5.5. There are a lot of easy climbs that are fun. I don't really understand the competitive climber who always must climb really hard and spend the day dogging a route. Not much fun movement in hang dogging. It looks frustrating. Moving smooth and fast over beautiful rock is so much fun!

One of my friends asked me if I climbed harder when I was younger. I said, "No, I always sucked at climbing.". I don't really care about the grade much I focus on finding classic lines, great moves, good rock, the experience and the exposure.
squishy

Mountain climber
sacramento
Apr 20, 2011 - 04:43pm PT
knapsack crack, 5.4...and a fun and easy solo...

anything on the hogsback really...
goatboy smellz

climber
Nederland
Apr 20, 2011 - 04:46pm PT
From the east face of Mickey Mouse Wall to Kiener's Route up on Longs, about 2,642 routes...only three of them are good tho...



bluering

Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
Apr 20, 2011 - 04:50pm PT
knapsack crack, 5.4...and a fun and easy solo...

I was waiting for someone to mention that. My first trad lead. Cruiser climbing and sucks gear off the rack. Perfect new trad leader stuff.
213

climber
Where the Froude number often >> 1
Apr 21, 2011 - 01:14am PT
A fantastic grade offering some superb routes and rock quality. Its cool since it allows for classic solo climbing or if your friends so desire, break out the ropes and a light rack and take some people up to places they'd never expect to go. But the good routes are so bomber just leave the gear and float through the hills!

Some of my favorites:

Southeast Ridge of Mount Emerson (II 5.4). Really cool route to solo with your friends. Go do it, you will not be disappointed.
poppin n lockin above lakes!
poppin n lockin above lakes!
Credit: 213

I repeat: not be disappointed...
oh yeah!
oh yeah!
Credit: 213

The South Face of Mount Clarence King (I 5.4). The move is so cool. Trust in Jah. The feeling of the pulling onto the summit and soaking up the views was nothing short of clarity. My first soloing experience in the mountains...a whole new world opened. Camping high in the Sixty Lakes Basin is highly recommended.
Bryant simmerin in the sun. and the quality stars increase exponential...
Bryant simmerin in the sun. and the quality stars increase exponentially as you approach the raddest 5.4 move ever!
Credit: 213

North Arete of North Cotter (II 5.4). Photo in Fiddler and Moynier will get you stoked! Really cool (and big) exposure in a fantastic setting! Maybe the best pitch of 5.4 arete climbing ever...
Peak is just left of center, North Arete is right-hand skyline. Sweet!
Peak is just left of center, North Arete is right-hand skyline. Sweet!
Credit: 213

Praise Jah atop Cotter! Don't forget a fishing rod!
Bryant floating up the high country knobs
Bryant floating up the high country knobs
Credit: 213

Horse Creek Spire S Ridge (I 5.4, mostly fun 4th with techy top out, do I get a neon bonus for my hat/running shoe combo?):
5.4 crux: opening move of the corkscrew top out sequence
5.4 crux: opening move of the corkscrew top out sequence
Credit: 213

Kindergarten-High (I 5.5). 250' of easy granite glory on Donner Summit. Do first pitch corner on Kindergarten then float right into the upper face zone of Junior High. All season climbing, and one of the finest easy solo linkups (especially adding in Junior High 5.6), you can log an easy 2k of perfect moevement over stone in a morning here easy.
Cruisin the corner in late low-snow November
Keep them hands warm skeezy, its blowin
Keep them hands warm skeezy, its blowin
Credit: 213

Funny how in summer and fall this is a boardshorts-only lap-fest in the sun!!!
oh the glow!
oh the glow!
Credit: 213

If you don't feel like solo downclimbing 5.6 and aren't bothered by some quick rappin, bring a skinny rope and hit the North Ridge of Conness, no more than 4th class, but definitely getting towards world class if you link with NW Ridge of North Peak (I 5.3) (and more so if you add in the West Ridge, this is on the list for triple doubles this year)
shake it like a polaroid picture
shake it like a polaroid picture
Credit: 213

Say what?! Thanks North Peak, for another sidewalk of the Sierra!
Jah Provide!
Jah Provide!
Credit: 213

And finally, one of the ultimate beach-to-beach-via-granite-glory cruises to do with your friends, Tenaya Peak (II 5.5):
Ground Zero for Fun
Ground Zero for Fun
Credit: 213
Tom

Big Wall climber
San Luis Obispo CA
Apr 21, 2011 - 03:47am PT
My first trad climb in the Valley was Aunt Fanny's Pantry, and 5.3 was not too stiff for a couple of teen brothers. Because it was at the "Church Bowl", Mom let us do it without a guide.

Later that day, I flailed and backed off of Church Bowl Chimney, at 5.6. My excuse is I was too short for the wide chimney.

Getting to the top of the traverse pitches on RA, and then bailing, was a real high point of our trip.
Mad69Dog

Mountain climber
Superior, CO
Apr 21, 2011 - 07:47am PT
I think the NFace of Long's Peak is 5.4. The last time I did it, the face was covered in ice and I didn't have tools or crampons. That's the hardest 5.4 I've ever soloed. I'd rate it 3 Pound Hammer/16 Penny Nail.

Does 5.5 A2 count as a 5.5? I still have a tic in my face over that one.
Mark Hudon

Trad climber
Hood River, OR
Apr 21, 2011 - 08:15am PT
Horseman, 5.4, The Gunks, Awesome route!
GOclimb

Trad climber
Boston, MA
Apr 21, 2011 - 08:27am PT
Lots of folks are mentioning High E and Horseman at the Gunks. Both excellent climbs, but I think the best bang for your buck at 5.5 or under at the Gunks is Yum Yum Yab Yum. Honestly only 5.3 moves, but total 5.10 exposure.

Pitch 1 of YYYY is forgettable, but the rest of the climb is superb. Typical spicy Gunks face climbing leading to an overhanging corner on jugs leading to mind-blowing hand traverse under a big roof. With huge air under your ass, big handholds, reasonable footholds, and all the gear you could want.

About as good as it gets for 5.3.

GO
squishy

Mountain climber
sacramento
Apr 21, 2011 - 08:45am PT
I loved Tenaya Peak, one of the best days out I have ever had...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ef2c1DUrCeo
mike m

Trad climber
black hills
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 21, 2011 - 08:53am PT
213 awsome pictures.

Yeah everybody has climbed 5.6, but you have to be bold to climb 5.5 and below(well at least climb 5.5 and below and write about it on the internet).
I bet there are around 100 good multi pitch cruiser routes in the Cath...
I bet there are around 100 good multi pitch cruiser routes in the Cathedral Spires.
Credit: mike m
neversummer

Trad climber
30 mins. from suicide USA
Apr 21, 2011 - 08:53am PT
"easy day" at josh 5.4.....felt a little tougher to me though..but i suck
Beatrix Kiddo

Mountain climber
ColoRADo
Apr 21, 2011 - 09:40am PT
Happiness is 1000' of 5.5! I love that style of climbing, especially in an alpine setting.

<ahhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh>
Karl Baba

Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
Apr 23, 2011 - 02:19am PT
By the way, those who think these are grades to solo might find themselves rethinking the position on some of the Gunks classics.

I'll say. I've free soloed onsight loads of 5.7 but I got put on a 5.7 at the gunks that would have had to be 11+ if it was on Yosemite Granite (Yellow corner?) big ass roof but there'sa big handlebar hold you naturally find. I'd crap my pants onsighting that without a rope!
Captain...or Skully

climber
My ready room
Apr 23, 2011 - 06:32am PT
Stellar pics, 213!!!
Oh, yeah.
Inner City

Trad climber
East Bay
Apr 23, 2011 - 07:04am PT
Great Pics and comments. I love this thread! So much good stuff that is not hard.

Round River at Smith, yes!
Messages 61 - 80 of total 195 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
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