Have you climbed 5.5 or below?


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Mountain climber
Superior, CO
Apr 21, 2011 - 10:47am PT
I think the NFace of Long's Peak is 5.4. The last time I did it, the face was covered in ice and I didn't have tools or crampons. That's the hardest 5.4 I've ever soloed. I'd rate it 3 Pound Hammer/16 Penny Nail.

Does 5.5 A2 count as a 5.5? I still have a tic in my face over that one.
Mark Hudon

Trad climber
Hood River, OR
Apr 21, 2011 - 11:15am PT
Horseman, 5.4, The Gunks, Awesome route!

Trad climber
Boston, MA
Apr 21, 2011 - 11:27am PT
Lots of folks are mentioning High E and Horseman at the Gunks. Both excellent climbs, but I think the best bang for your buck at 5.5 or under at the Gunks is Yum Yum Yab Yum. Honestly only 5.3 moves, but total 5.10 exposure.

Pitch 1 of YYYY is forgettable, but the rest of the climb is superb. Typical spicy Gunks face climbing leading to an overhanging corner on jugs leading to mind-blowing hand traverse under a big roof. With huge air under your ass, big handholds, reasonable footholds, and all the gear you could want.

About as good as it gets for 5.3.


Mountain climber
Apr 21, 2011 - 11:45am PT
I loved Tenaya Peak, one of the best days out I have ever had...
mike m

Trad climber
black hills
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 21, 2011 - 11:53am PT
213 awsome pictures.

Yeah everybody has climbed 5.6, but you have to be bold to climb 5.5 and below(well at least climb 5.5 and below and write about it on the internet).
I bet there are around 100 good multi pitch cruiser routes in the Cath...
I bet there are around 100 good multi pitch cruiser routes in the Cathedral Spires.
Credit: mike m

Trad climber
30 mins. from suicide USA
Apr 21, 2011 - 11:53am PT
"easy day" at josh 5.4.....felt a little tougher to me though..but i suck
Beatrix Kiddo

Mountain climber
Apr 21, 2011 - 12:40pm PT
Happiness is 1000' of 5.5! I love that style of climbing, especially in an alpine setting.

Karl Baba

Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
Apr 23, 2011 - 05:19am PT
By the way, those who think these are grades to solo might find themselves rethinking the position on some of the Gunks classics.

I'll say. I've free soloed onsight loads of 5.7 but I got put on a 5.7 at the gunks that would have had to be 11+ if it was on Yosemite Granite (Yellow corner?) big ass roof but there'sa big handlebar hold you naturally find. I'd crap my pants onsighting that without a rope!
Captain...or Skully

My ready room
Apr 23, 2011 - 09:32am PT
Stellar pics, 213!!!
Oh, yeah.
Inner City

Trad climber
East Bay
Apr 23, 2011 - 10:04am PT
Great Pics and comments. I love this thread! So much good stuff that is not hard.

Round River at Smith, yes!

Apr 23, 2011 - 10:14am PT
Liberty Bell, Becky Route .. 5.6 but mostly easier, North Cascades National Park

Lots of fun easy stuff on Herring Creek Dome (off Sonora Pass Hwy)

Eichorn Pinnacle, North Face (5.4)
(combine with West Face of Cathedral Peak, 4th class)

Cosmic Wall, Mt. Hubris (Castle Crags State Park)
Mt. Hubris
Mt. Hubris
Credit: rhyang
(5.6 again, but again mostly easier)

Hard to beat the views while soloing Tenaya Peak

Stemwinder (5.4), Thor Peak
Stemwinder &#40;I, 5.4&#41; on Thor Peak, as viewed from Candlelight Peak
Stemwinder (I, 5.4) on Thor Peak, as viewed from Candlelight Peak
Credit: Laura Molnar

Laurel Mtn, NE Gully (5.2)

(fantastic geology)

First Sister, West Face (5.5) Pinnacles National Monument

North Peak, NW Ridge (5.3)

Bear Creek Spire, NE Ridge (easy fifth)

Mt. Conness, West Ridge -- another 5.6 with mostly easier moves
West Ridge fun !
West Ridge fun !
Credit: rhyang

Costanoan (5.4) -- the Citadel, Pinnacles National Monument

Tollhouse Traverse -- one of the best 5.5's in CA


Apr 23, 2011 - 11:51am PT
Tiptoe ridge (Tiptoe spire?) in Arapiles is 1300' long, very solid rock, amazing free solo, goes at 5.5.

I rapped that Becky route Ryang mentions on Liberty Bell after climbing up the other side and it looks great! I'm saving it till I get old(er).
tom Carter

Social climber
Apr 23, 2011 - 12:04pm PT
Beautiful Photos!

When Don Lauria turned 55 we had a Birthday Party at his place in Bishop.

Someone made a T-shirt for him that read... "Five Five can be tricky".

Bet Don has a photo somewhere?

Trad climber
Central Coast
Apr 23, 2011 - 12:45pm PT

did anyone mention that one?

The cleanest 5.5 lieback of the grade in the state. Laser.
Combine with Tree Route on Dome Rock and that's a fun trip.

Cathedral Range (Toulumne) & Conness N. Ridge were memorable also.

Trad climber
Bay Area
Apr 23, 2011 - 01:44pm PT
BUMP for Exum Ridge on the Grand
A fine mountaineering outing with spectacular location. Never harder than 5.5, never just a walk. Several "don't fall here" places. Non-trivial descent.
The usual warnings and disclaimers apply.

Apr 23, 2011 - 02:19pm PT
For stuff in the Gunks

Frogs Head 5.5 hands down the best climb of that grade there.

For Stuff in CA

Anything in the Sierra's with Clydes name on it. Picture the east ridge of Humphreys. Ever wonder why the call it the little sub summit "married mans summit".

Trad climber
Santa Monica, California
Apr 23, 2011 - 02:30pm PT
Sung to the tune of "Hi Ho" from Snow White

Five five, five five,
I just fell off five five,
It's not too hard,
But I'm a lard,
Five five, five five!

Done With Tobacco
Apr 23, 2011 - 02:52pm PT
I love moderately technical routes that get me to spectacular places. Weeds out the tourons and makes for a beautiful place to burn one.
Iron Mtn.

Trad climber
Riverside, Ca.
Apr 24, 2011 - 03:37am PT
I've always had a fondness for The Lark (5.3) at Tahquitz. A very adventurous undertaking with lots of exposure, route finding and steepness packed in 7 or 8 pitches.

Another cool sub-5.5 climb is the Tooth in the Washington Cascades, killer hike to a saddle then 4 pitches of 5.fun to a beautiful summit with view of the entire range.

The Tree Route at Dome Rock also gets a HUGE thumbs up. Every pitch is memorable in it's own way. I love the impossible looking last pitch which looks like a 5.11 but is more like 5.0........
Disaster Master

Social climber
Born in So-Cal, left my soul in far Nor-Cal.
Apr 24, 2011 - 03:42am PT
I'm down to 5.me
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