Have you climbed 5.5 or below?


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goatboy smellz

Apr 20, 2011 - 07:46pm PT
From the east face of Mickey Mouse Wall to Kiener's Route up on Longs, about 2,642 routes...only three of them are good tho...


Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
Apr 20, 2011 - 07:50pm PT
knapsack crack, 5.4...and a fun and easy solo...

I was waiting for someone to mention that. My first trad lead. Cruiser climbing and sucks gear off the rack. Perfect new trad leader stuff.

Where the Froude number often >> 1
Apr 21, 2011 - 04:14am PT
A fantastic grade offering some superb routes and rock quality. Its cool since it allows for classic solo climbing or if your friends so desire, break out the ropes and a light rack and take some people up to places they'd never expect to go. But the good routes are so bomber just leave the gear and float through the hills!

Some of my favorites:

Southeast Ridge of Mount Emerson (II 5.4). Really cool route to solo with your friends. Go do it, you will not be disappointed.
poppin n lockin above lakes!
poppin n lockin above lakes!
Credit: 213

I repeat: not be disappointed...
oh yeah!
oh yeah!
Credit: 213

The South Face of Mount Clarence King (I 5.4). The move is so cool. Trust in Jah. The feeling of the pulling onto the summit and soaking up the views was nothing short of clarity. My first soloing experience in the mountains...a whole new world opened. Camping high in the Sixty Lakes Basin is highly recommended.
Bryant simmerin in the sun. and the quality stars increase exponential...
Bryant simmerin in the sun. and the quality stars increase exponentially as you approach the raddest 5.4 move ever!
Credit: 213

North Arete of North Cotter (II 5.4). Photo in Fiddler and Moynier will get you stoked! Really cool (and big) exposure in a fantastic setting! Maybe the best pitch of 5.4 arete climbing ever...
Peak is just left of center, North Arete is right-hand skyline. Sweet!
Peak is just left of center, North Arete is right-hand skyline. Sweet!
Credit: 213

Praise Jah atop Cotter! Don't forget a fishing rod!
Bryant floating up the high country knobs
Bryant floating up the high country knobs
Credit: 213

Horse Creek Spire S Ridge (I 5.4, mostly fun 4th with techy top out, do I get a neon bonus for my hat/running shoe combo?):
5.4 crux: opening move of the corkscrew top out sequence
5.4 crux: opening move of the corkscrew top out sequence
Credit: 213

Kindergarten-High (I 5.5). 250' of easy granite glory on Donner Summit. Do first pitch corner on Kindergarten then float right into the upper face zone of Junior High. All season climbing, and one of the finest easy solo linkups (especially adding in Junior High 5.6), you can log an easy 2k of perfect moevement over stone in a morning here easy.
Cruisin the corner in late low-snow November
Keep them hands warm skeezy, its blowin
Keep them hands warm skeezy, its blowin
Credit: 213

Funny how in summer and fall this is a boardshorts-only lap-fest in the sun!!!
oh the glow!
oh the glow!
Credit: 213

If you don't feel like solo downclimbing 5.6 and aren't bothered by some quick rappin, bring a skinny rope and hit the North Ridge of Conness, no more than 4th class, but definitely getting towards world class if you link with NW Ridge of North Peak (I 5.3) (and more so if you add in the West Ridge, this is on the list for triple doubles this year)
shake it like a polaroid picture
shake it like a polaroid picture
Credit: 213

Say what?! Thanks North Peak, for another sidewalk of the Sierra!
Jah Provide!
Jah Provide!
Credit: 213

And finally, one of the ultimate beach-to-beach-via-granite-glory cruises to do with your friends, Tenaya Peak (II 5.5):
Ground Zero for Fun
Ground Zero for Fun
Credit: 213

Big Wall climber
San Luis Obispo CA
Apr 21, 2011 - 06:47am PT
My first trad climb in the Valley was Aunt Fanny's Pantry, and 5.3 was not too stiff for a couple of teen brothers. Because it was at the "Church Bowl", Mom let us do it without a guide.

Later that day, I flailed and backed off of Church Bowl Chimney, at 5.6. My excuse is I was too short for the wide chimney.

Getting to the top of the traverse pitches on RA, and then bailing, was a real high point of our trip.

Mountain climber
Superior, CO
Apr 21, 2011 - 10:47am PT
I think the NFace of Long's Peak is 5.4. The last time I did it, the face was covered in ice and I didn't have tools or crampons. That's the hardest 5.4 I've ever soloed. I'd rate it 3 Pound Hammer/16 Penny Nail.

Does 5.5 A2 count as a 5.5? I still have a tic in my face over that one.
Mark Hudon

Trad climber
Hood River, OR
Apr 21, 2011 - 11:15am PT
Horseman, 5.4, The Gunks, Awesome route!

Trad climber
Boston, MA
Apr 21, 2011 - 11:27am PT
Lots of folks are mentioning High E and Horseman at the Gunks. Both excellent climbs, but I think the best bang for your buck at 5.5 or under at the Gunks is Yum Yum Yab Yum. Honestly only 5.3 moves, but total 5.10 exposure.

Pitch 1 of YYYY is forgettable, but the rest of the climb is superb. Typical spicy Gunks face climbing leading to an overhanging corner on jugs leading to mind-blowing hand traverse under a big roof. With huge air under your ass, big handholds, reasonable footholds, and all the gear you could want.

About as good as it gets for 5.3.


Mountain climber
Apr 21, 2011 - 11:45am PT
I loved Tenaya Peak, one of the best days out I have ever had...
mike m

Trad climber
black hills
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 21, 2011 - 11:53am PT
213 awsome pictures.

Yeah everybody has climbed 5.6, but you have to be bold to climb 5.5 and below(well at least climb 5.5 and below and write about it on the internet).
I bet there are around 100 good multi pitch cruiser routes in the Cath...
I bet there are around 100 good multi pitch cruiser routes in the Cathedral Spires.
Credit: mike m

Trad climber
30 mins. from suicide USA
Apr 21, 2011 - 11:53am PT
"easy day" at josh 5.4.....felt a little tougher to me though..but i suck
Beatrix Kiddo

Mountain climber
Apr 21, 2011 - 12:40pm PT
Happiness is 1000' of 5.5! I love that style of climbing, especially in an alpine setting.

Karl Baba

Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
Apr 23, 2011 - 05:19am PT
By the way, those who think these are grades to solo might find themselves rethinking the position on some of the Gunks classics.

I'll say. I've free soloed onsight loads of 5.7 but I got put on a 5.7 at the gunks that would have had to be 11+ if it was on Yosemite Granite (Yellow corner?) big ass roof but there'sa big handlebar hold you naturally find. I'd crap my pants onsighting that without a rope!
Captain...or Skully

My ready room
Apr 23, 2011 - 09:32am PT
Stellar pics, 213!!!
Oh, yeah.
Inner City

Trad climber
East Bay
Apr 23, 2011 - 10:04am PT
Great Pics and comments. I love this thread! So much good stuff that is not hard.

Round River at Smith, yes!

Apr 23, 2011 - 10:14am PT
Liberty Bell, Becky Route .. 5.6 but mostly easier, North Cascades National Park

Lots of fun easy stuff on Herring Creek Dome (off Sonora Pass Hwy)

Eichorn Pinnacle, North Face (5.4)
(combine with West Face of Cathedral Peak, 4th class)

Cosmic Wall, Mt. Hubris (Castle Crags State Park)
Mt. Hubris
Mt. Hubris
Credit: rhyang
(5.6 again, but again mostly easier)

Hard to beat the views while soloing Tenaya Peak

Stemwinder (5.4), Thor Peak
Stemwinder &#40;I, 5.4&#41; on Thor Peak, as viewed from Candlelight Peak
Stemwinder (I, 5.4) on Thor Peak, as viewed from Candlelight Peak
Credit: Laura Molnar

Laurel Mtn, NE Gully (5.2)

(fantastic geology)

First Sister, West Face (5.5) Pinnacles National Monument

North Peak, NW Ridge (5.3)

Bear Creek Spire, NE Ridge (easy fifth)

Mt. Conness, West Ridge -- another 5.6 with mostly easier moves
West Ridge fun !
West Ridge fun !
Credit: rhyang

Costanoan (5.4) -- the Citadel, Pinnacles National Monument

Tollhouse Traverse -- one of the best 5.5's in CA


Apr 23, 2011 - 11:51am PT
Tiptoe ridge (Tiptoe spire?) in Arapiles is 1300' long, very solid rock, amazing free solo, goes at 5.5.

I rapped that Becky route Ryang mentions on Liberty Bell after climbing up the other side and it looks great! I'm saving it till I get old(er).
tom Carter

Social climber
Apr 23, 2011 - 12:04pm PT
Beautiful Photos!

When Don Lauria turned 55 we had a Birthday Party at his place in Bishop.

Someone made a T-shirt for him that read... "Five Five can be tricky".

Bet Don has a photo somewhere?

Trad climber
Central Coast
Apr 23, 2011 - 12:45pm PT

did anyone mention that one?

The cleanest 5.5 lieback of the grade in the state. Laser.
Combine with Tree Route on Dome Rock and that's a fun trip.

Cathedral Range (Toulumne) & Conness N. Ridge were memorable also.

Trad climber
Bay Area
Apr 23, 2011 - 01:44pm PT
BUMP for Exum Ridge on the Grand
A fine mountaineering outing with spectacular location. Never harder than 5.5, never just a walk. Several "don't fall here" places. Non-trivial descent.
The usual warnings and disclaimers apply.

Apr 23, 2011 - 02:19pm PT
For stuff in the Gunks

Frogs Head 5.5 hands down the best climb of that grade there.

For Stuff in CA

Anything in the Sierra's with Clydes name on it. Picture the east ridge of Humphreys. Ever wonder why the call it the little sub summit "married mans summit".
Messages 61 - 80 of total 256 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
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