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Patrick Oliver
Boulder climber
Fruita, Colorado
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Jan 24, 2012 - 03:26am PT
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Joe,
Thanks for the report. This is the kind of stuff we need to read,
the good stuff from the good days... So many climbs mentioned
in his bio, but every new one, such as this, is a welcome addition.
There is a never ending story, really, when it comes to Layton.
We should all gather our best stories about Kor....
I find it strange I never met you back when....
All the best,
Pat
{P.S. The Dornan entry. I thought Layton already was a phenomenal
climber by the time he met Dave Dornan. Those are interesting
stories, though. I'd like to hear more from Dave himself about
those time and from Layton, as to their friendship. They were, of
course, in that little group of climbers they called the Marmots.
Dave's little orange guide was the first real guide to Eldorado
and the Boulder area. Many other descriptions and such existed in
Trail and Timberlines, but his little book was magic....
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Johnny K.
climber
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Jan 24, 2012 - 11:09am PT
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I believe when people refer to "real climbing" these days,they are talking about things in this thread and such.
Respect.
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Clu
Social climber
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Jan 24, 2012 - 02:45pm PT
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Rick Sylvester has a hilarious Kor story, first told to me by Bruce Fessenden. Rick was retelling this story to Bruce and I one evening.
When Rick was guiding for Dougal Haston in Switzerland, Kor approached him about doing a climb in the Dolomites. Rick agreed, knowing Kor was interested in partnering primarily because Rick had a car. Despite being a noob at the time (last ice age?), Rick and Layton drove off to Italy. Rick became anxious as the rain steadily increased to a down pour, inquiring how they would be able to climb in such inclement weather. Kor, "Wet? Not where we are going!" The climb was 1000ft of 95 degree climbing. Rick recounted to us, "I couldn't do the first pitch" Bruce and I knew the whole story, however, and in unison said, "You couldn't get off the ground!" Rick, sheepishly, "Well, I didn't lie".
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Mar 10, 2012 - 01:52pm PT
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Kor Bump...
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Texplorer
Trad climber
Sacramento
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Jun 10, 2013 - 07:49pm PT
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Surprised this didn't get bumped recently. Love live Kor!
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E Robinson
climber
Salinas, CA
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Jun 10, 2013 - 10:35pm PT
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What a great read!!!! Burliness to a tee, with goldline to boot. Now I now why Greg Murphy and I decided on the Kor-Beck for our first North Facing winter climb in the park - Presidents Day ~1986. (We briefly considered the Steck-Salathe, but decided that would be a bit much.) A few shots from that effort in memory of the incredible Layton Kor.
Heavy snow was forecast but hadn't started yet
P. 6, rain turning to slush...if I remember right
The u-shaped bowl, rapped from here, didn't get to the catwalk
The next morning
Glad we decided against the Steck-Salathe
Somewhere I think I have a story Greg wrote about this, if I ever find it I'll post it up...
A year or so later I tried the winter ascent of the Steck-Salathe with Bruce King (relatively mild winter conditions.) We got up the Flying Buttress but turned around...hauling our gear was a logistical nightmare.
Has the Steck-Salathe had a winter ascent????
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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
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Jun 10, 2013 - 10:44pm PT
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Just got down after finishing up Kor's and Roper's classic 1963 West Buttress route on El Cap. Lots of wyde stuff - huge thanks to Kate for the loan of her Valley Giants. The Grand Traverse is a grand excursion for sure - at one point, instead of hauling, we simply lowered the bags across and right onto our bivi ledge, where we hung out for the next several nights, sleeping in, staying up late, drinking fine wines with an international assortment of cheese and crackers, and even climbing.
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Allen Hill
Social climber
CO.
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Jun 11, 2013 - 12:17am PT
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Layton loved fine cheese. He picked up the habit in Switzerland. Till just a year ago or so he'd bake a fine raclet with baby white potatoes. He'd love to know about your fine cheese and wine ascent of his route. Nice job!
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Camster (Rhymes with Hamster)
Social climber
CO
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Jun 11, 2013 - 01:15am PT
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Pat, just read this:
{P.S. The Dornan entry. I thought Layton already was a phenomenal
climber by the time he met Dave Dornan. Those are interesting
stories, though. I'd like to hear more from Dave himself about
those time and from Layton, as to their friendship. They were, of
course, in that little group of climbers they called the Marmots.
Dave's little orange guide was the first real guide to Eldorado
and the Boulder area. Many other descriptions and such existed in
Trail and Timberlines, but his little book was magic....
Hopefully this is useful:
Dave came to Boulder in '55 to study geology. He met Layton in 1957, and during one of those first meetings they looked at Dave's slides of mountains. Layton apparently got really excited. Dave was a big mentor. Layton mentions this (how Dave suggested he go beyond soloing the 3rd over and over) in BTV. They remained good friends for years. Their last climb together was the Powell-Reed in 1960 during Layton's first Yosemite visit.
Yes, be great if Dave were on this thread. I talk/email with him every few months, but I think he's got his hands full.
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