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Darwin
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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F*#king-A I love the way these pop up on Supertopo!!!!! Or as the young'ns say: OMG!!!!
Thanks Guido (and Peter). As far as the choice between the high school sweetie and climbing with Steck on the Steck-Salathe, I don't know. I think I would be second guessing myself to this day no matter what I chose.
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couchmaster
climber
pdx
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Great stuff youse guys, so classic and worthy of our eyeballs. Thanks for sharing it! Woot!
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Jan
Mountain climber
Okinawa, Japan
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Interesting to contemplate that I met and started climbing with Layton only six months later. I'm not sure why he was in the Valley that early when he could have stayed in Boulder and climbed in the snow?
My guess is that he had been working at Yvon's foundry down south and couldn't stand it anymore and had to bust out and try to go climbing.One of the great things about Layton is that he would climb with anyone who wanted to climb and loved the rock. There was not an ounce of elitism about him.
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BooDawg
Social climber
Butterfly Town
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Great Post, Guido! And why have I not heard of this epic adventure before? The Sentinel approach was ALWAYS somewhat freaky in dry, warm weather; I can only IMAGINE doing it with Kor under winter conditions. Reminds me of slugging thru the snow to help Kor and Lauria on their approach to their 3rd ascent of the Leaning Tower! Wild adventures! Thanks for the posting (and to Peter for his photo help)!!
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JEleazarian
Trad climber
Fresno CA
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I'd heard that Kor tried the Steck-Salathe in winter, but I never heard with whom, any details, or saw any pictures. This is fantastic. I greatly appreciate all of your posts, but you and Peter were really outstanding on this one.
John
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DrDeeg
Mountain climber
Mammoth Lakes, CA
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Notice the ages of the climbers on the signout sheet. I believe Guido added +2 so as to have enough credibility to the Rangers.
Indeed, as Jan writes, Kor would climb with all. One year a couple of Brits were in the Valley, when they were pretty rare. Kor asked someone what he was doing that day, and the reply was, "I'm going climbing with a couple of guys from England," to which Kor exclaimed, "Ah c'mon, you can't have 'em both."
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JEleazarian
Trad climber
Fresno CA
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Bruce,
Denny has a couple of pictures of Harding on the West Side of Monday Morning Slab in his Yosemite in the 60's book. If I hadn't done the route I would have sworn they were on the north face of some famous alpine peak.
John
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murcy
Gym climber
sanfrancisco
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Three cheers for Content! Thanks, man!
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Apr 10, 2011 - 12:12am PT
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Guido,
we're going to need a pic of the gal to rightful understand the gravity of the situation here.
;)
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GDavis
Social climber
SOL CAL
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Apr 11, 2011 - 12:21pm PT
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Howd I miss this???? BUMP!
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Lasti
Trad climber
Budapest
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Apr 11, 2011 - 12:35pm PT
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Guido writes:
Down jackets for bivouac but no sack for protection.
To me it seems you had all the sack needed.
Another great bit of history, thanks.
Lasti
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o-man
Trad climber
Paia,Maui,HI
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Apr 11, 2011 - 01:01pm PT
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guido, This is a real piece of climbing history! Thanks for sharing the story and images!
BTW: I have enjoyed our recent correspondence and from that I feel that we are from the same planet cheers to you and your past and future adventures! Olaf
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Mad69Dog
Mountain climber
Superior, CO
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Apr 21, 2011 - 10:30am PT
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Dave Dornan tells great Kor stories. Kor was an up and coming newbie when Dave arrived in Boulder to attend CU. Dave took Kor under his wing and taught him rope management skills and pitoncraft, in Dave's words: "So he wouldn't kill himself". Dave said that within a few months, Kor had shot past him as a leader, adding: "If you went climbing with Kor, you were going to get up the route." Dave's description of Kor leading the crux of Yellow Spur is a hoot. Apparently, Layton felt a bit exposed out there all alone.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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May 13, 2011 - 08:50pm PT
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Try to get Dave to join in...
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Jun 12, 2011 - 12:18pm PT
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Icy Bump...
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Jan 23, 2012 - 08:24pm PT
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Dornan Bump...Enter and sign in please!
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BASE104
climber
An Oil Field
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Jan 23, 2012 - 09:07pm PT
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I demand more stories.
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le_bruce
climber
Oakland, CA
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Jan 23, 2012 - 10:14pm PT
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Just been reading about Kor in Roper's Camp 4. Wild that so many protagonists of that era are on this forum, and in this thread (though it's hard to tell, given the cryptic avatar names).
The sense I get from Roper is that Kor's huge and golden heart is what made getting past the death of his partner on the Eiger so difficult. A colder dude would have shaken it off, but Kor was too good a person to be able to...
Ed to add from Nov '2011:
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