Photo Report: The omnipresent Toe Jam Death Belay™

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Messages 101 - 120 of total 136 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
WBraun

climber
Jan 19, 2006 - 01:17pm PT
There is not much to think about what is going to happen, otherwise they would be thinking.

Gloves, you no like gloves? I like gloves.
TradIsGood

Trad climber
Gunks end of country
Jan 19, 2006 - 01:24pm PT
Makes sense. The belayer, realizing that he forgot his helmet, is standing back to avoid getting hit by falling objects - perhaps like gear slipping out of gloved hands. Also, not in the picture are too hotties soloing to the left. He could not see them when he was in the BLZ (Bigguy Landing Zone).

Note that the camera is to the left. This was the only shot taken of the belay, and it was pure chance that the belayer was looking at the climber.

In fact, the only reason this picture was taken was because one of the hotties turned toward the cameraman, and he did not want to seem like a total voyeur.
Matt

Trad climber
places you shouldn't talk about in polite company
Jan 19, 2006 - 01:45pm PT
"So much to love about this photo"


i like the otherwise hyper-attentive belay, the rope is as taught as a slackline, it's as if the leader just said "watch me", and the belayer, 30' away, is all over it.




the guy is really blowing an opportunity by not sitting in his car to belay.
healyje

Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
Jan 19, 2006 - 01:48pm PT
Ouch! If ever there was a canvas...
Gary

climber
Desolation Basin, Calif.
Jan 19, 2006 - 01:51pm PT
Like you guys have never done anything stupid?

BTW, I like the Makalus on the leader.
Karl Baba

Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
Jan 19, 2006 - 01:55pm PT
I'm not defending the crazy aid belay in the photo, but I still guess that if the leader fell, he'd be OK and get a soft catch.

Check out this classic belay technique thread. the foot belay

http://www.rockclimbing.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=77694&postdays=0&postorder=asc&topic_view=&start=0

Gary

climber
Desolation Basin, Calif.
Jan 19, 2006 - 01:57pm PT
Why I stopped reading rc.com. People actually thought that was cool.
Rock!...oopsie.

Trad climber
pitch above you
Jan 19, 2006 - 02:00pm PT
So, how many days did it take for this team to top out? Short Wall at Indian Cove, correct? I'm pretty sure it's been done in a day by a few strong teams.

--->bob
matisse

Trad climber
Jan 19, 2006 - 02:02pm PT
werner,
love the gloves.
sue

ps Gary, that isn't you is it?
Gary

climber
Desolation Basin, Calif.
Jan 19, 2006 - 02:15pm PT
No, Sue, that isn't me!

Those guys are better aid climbers than I am.
healyje

Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
Jan 19, 2006 - 02:21pm PT
NNNNNOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO! For the love of god man - don't encourage him! AAAGGGGHHHH NO - Curt rings the bell on the multisite troll-o-meter! Damn Karl, and I thought we knew thee....
matisse

Trad climber
Jan 19, 2006 - 02:27pm PT
Gary,
Sorry to cast aspersions. Can you imagine being those 2 guys and having your picture plastered all over the web? Brutal. Just when they think it's gone away for good, someone posts it again and it starts alll over.
JuanDeFuca

Big Wall climber
Stoney Point
Jan 19, 2006 - 02:27pm PT
JuanDeFuca

Big Wall climber
Stoney Point
Jan 19, 2006 - 02:30pm PT
I sent the aid line free on sight. I think it harder than 10a.

Juanito
Hardman Knott

Gym climber
Straight Outta J-Tree
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 19, 2006 - 02:32pm PT
Matisse wrote:

Can you imagine being those 2 guys and having your picture plastered all over the web? Brutal.
Just when they think it's gone away for good, someone posts it again and it starts all over.



Which 2 guys?

From the Toe Jam Death Belay™ or the Indian Cove Death Belay™?
matisse

Trad climber
Jan 19, 2006 - 02:40pm PT
The assault on R V crack in IC death belay.
sorry to be unclear
Rock!...oopsie.

Trad climber
pitch above you
Jan 19, 2006 - 02:40pm PT
HK -

"Indian Cove Death Belay"

He's gonna have to take one hell of a weird fall to actually die there. He is, however, in serious danger of a bruised ass.

Hardman Knott

Gym climber
Straight Outta J-Tree
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 19, 2006 - 02:48pm PT
Death Belay™ doesn't necessarily mean certain death...
Matt

Trad climber
places you shouldn't talk about in polite company
Jan 19, 2006 - 02:58pm PT
karl-

you are not belaying from your rig either, i am not impressed.
paulj

climber
utah
Jan 19, 2006 - 03:43pm PT
I wish I had a picture of a belay at Hidden Valley, VA. Immediately beneath a large roof, one could belay from bucket seat bolted directly to rock (a Ford Mustang seat, if I remember correctly). One can watch the climber from the proper belay spot, while kicking back in the seat and avoiding the sore neck syndrome. Oh, the seat belt was bolted alongside as well, so one could buckle up...such are the quirks of a privately owned climbing area.
Messages 101 - 120 of total 136 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
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