Photo Report: The omnipresent Toe Jam Death Belay™

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Hardman Knott

Gym climber
Straight Outta J-Tree
Topic Author's Original Post - Jan 15, 2006 - 02:17pm PT
I was in J-tree recently for a period knott exceeding the 14 day limit.
During this time it was astonishing how many times we saw the Death Belay™ in action:



Note that there is a bombproof anchor to be had right above the crack,
and yet at least 6 times out of 10 the leader inexplicably walks way the fuçk over
to the rap station to belay. It truly boggles the mind!

Usually someone at camp would announce "Death Belay!!", and we would all gather.
As the follower removed the last piece, and on the count of three, we would all
yell "DEEEEAAAATTHH BEELLLAAAAAY!! at the top of our lungs.
I wonder if they ever got it (or cared).

Here the follower has just removed the one thing keeping him from a 35-foot pendulum:




Until now, this routine has provided an inordinate amount of entertainment.
It's all fun and games until someone actually gets hurt.
If a follower/toproper gets injured, the responsibility lies 100% on the leader––who should fuçking know better.

Get your shít together people––before you kill someone!!
TimM

Trad climber
Indian Wells, CA
Jan 15, 2006 - 02:29pm PT
Furthermore, it looks to me like in the 2nd photo that our fearless leader is anchored into only 1 of the 2 bolts at the rap station.
Hardman Knott

Gym climber
Straight Outta J-Tree
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 15, 2006 - 02:31pm PT
OMG you're right! Holy shit!! WTF is with these clowns?

WBraun

climber
Jan 15, 2006 - 02:33pm PT
Ah man that's nothing, no big, it's low angle, not much can happen.

I'll take ya out for a wild ride, any takers? hehehehe
Hardman Knott

Gym climber
Straight Outta J-Tree
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 15, 2006 - 02:38pm PT
Werner I would love to go for a ride!!

We could do a Photo/Video Report™...
hobo

Trad climber
Jan 15, 2006 - 02:47pm PT
Although definitely not the smartest thing to do, 99 percent of the time, these people will get away with these things, just fine. And if they take the ride, they will know better than us what to do next time.
Chaz

Trad climber
So. Cal.
Jan 15, 2006 - 02:47pm PT
Note the "Crown of Idiocy" worn by "leader".
WBraun

climber
Jan 15, 2006 - 02:48pm PT
Anytime Dave, show up and we'll ride the bull.

But, on a serious note I agree with your analysis of the leader not using a directional for the second in the photo.

It's always a good idea to do that ...........
Hardman Knott

Gym climber
Straight Outta J-Tree
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 15, 2006 - 02:54pm PT
Cool! I'll take you up on it.

At the very least, why doesn't the leader put a quick cam in the horizontal above
the line with a long sling as a directional? How long could that possibly take? 20 seconds?

dustymirror

Social climber
Jan 15, 2006 - 04:02pm PT
That is knott a death belay- Come on, show us the Hardman vs. Yucca pictures.
happiegrrrl

Trad climber
New York, NY
Jan 15, 2006 - 04:31pm PT
Hobo said: "And if they take the ride, they will know better than us what to do next time."

Somehow....I don't think they will.....

I was walking by once and saw the guy anchored at the rap and was like "mmmm....ooookay." I recall taking a moment to send a "thanks" out to all those who have shown me the way so far, that I would know better. Of course, I couldn't help but dawdle....rubbernecker that I am.

Why the second didn't notice it while the leader was passing up the anchor spot in the first place and say something then.....well, guess it just did not occur to him, until he found himself about to clean that top piece!

Anyway, I did get to see a little bit of drama, as he yells across "WTF,man!" A bit of heat develops in the discussion....and the leader sets up some sort of adjustable knot so he can traverse to the left and slam in a directional.

At that point, I realized that....it's not polite to stare....and scurried away.
maculated

Trad climber
San Luis Obispo, CA
Jan 15, 2006 - 04:35pm PT
Love it, Knott. Thanks.

I would read someone the riot act for that if I had to follow it - but I am also deathly afraid of long pendulum TR falls for some reason. I once back lead an entire roof because my partner didn't protect the crux to the anchor and I was looking at a pendulum that was going to do more than hurt.

And if you've ever climbed with me in that situation where it's unavoidable, I will fight you for the lead. :) It's something about seeing exactly what will happen since the rope's ahead of you.
dirtineye

Trad climber
the south
Jan 15, 2006 - 04:51pm PT
That climb should go all the way to the top anyway. The little slab section between the rings and the big corridor is kind of fun. There's a groove on top that takes good pro for an anchor. You could simul-rappel off opposite sides and forget about rings then, at least for that climb.

There are some old unrepaired bolt choppings in the big split, for some old routes that went across the split to the bigger rock. Hhow come those were removed and not replaced?
Blitzo

Social climber
Earth
Jan 15, 2006 - 04:56pm PT
Why are they using ropes on it? That's certain Death!
dirtineye

Trad climber
the south
Jan 15, 2006 - 05:00pm PT
Maculated, then you must never lead or follow the traversing pitch of the OR at Whitesides in NC, LOL. 165 feet of easy traverse, but not a whole lot of pro, and not the greatest hands.


Don't know why you'd rather lead than follow though, wouldn't you rather face where you're going, as opposed to heading there backwards? Traversing falls are leader falls no matter who led.
Hardman Knott

Gym climber
Straight Outta J-Tree
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 15, 2006 - 05:07pm PT
Dustymirror ––  I will post the yucca pix as soon as I can get 'em scanned...

Here's a question for you guys:

What's worse: leading or following Sidewinder?

Has any leader ever fallen while "walking the plank"?

How about a follower?

Please list any injury details.

If any pants were shat in, please skip the details.

dave

climber
Earth
Jan 15, 2006 - 05:14pm PT
I heard a guy deck once from that final slab move, he was lucky, sprained wrist! Can you believe that?
Another time, on chimney rock, to the climbers left of "Damper" on a route called "Break Dancing", these guys (the leader) went up the 2nd. to the last piece WAS a "fixed" pin and then above that a green alien in a horizontal, then he traverse 20. ft' to the right to belay at the top of "Damper", Deat Belay (hardmanknot tm. term)the second fell before the fixed pin, it ripped, the green alien ripped out of the horizontal and the poor 2nd.(follower) landed on his back on the big ledge that you start Damper and Pinched Rib off of. We stabilized him along with some other folks help and he was out of there with the medics as quickly as they got there. Belay ABOVE your route unless you leave a ton of solid gear on the traverse for your second!
steelmnkey

climber
Phoenix, AZ
Jan 15, 2006 - 05:16pm PT
"Note the 'Crown of Idiocy' worn by 'leader'."


Also known as the Reservoir Tip.



dustymirror

Social climber
Jan 15, 2006 - 05:40pm PT
Couldn't tell if i shat my pants following Sidewinder- i was too afraid to look down! But i did slip on something "walking the plank"...

Murf

climber
Jan 15, 2006 - 05:59pm PT
One of my original partners fell on Sidewinder just before the flake. Took a fantastic swing which ended over in the overhung portion. Sucked it up and finished it - No injuries, no underwear change.

As I was just a beginner at the time, it had the net effect of keeping me from leading it for a long time.

As for leading vs. following it, leading it is tougher. After unclipping the bolt, the rail gets progressively smaller.

Murf
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