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cultureshock

Trad climber
Mountain View
Topic Author's Original Post - Feb 24, 2011 - 03:20pm PT
So after seeing some great photos in threads about Tales of Power and The Phoenix I was hoping to find some psyche and sweet photos of Indian Creek.

I’d love to see some shots or hear the stories about the first ascents of Tricks are for Kids, Death of a Cowboy, Winner Takes All, Christmas Tree, Cathedral of the Mad Feline, Scared Cow and any other 5.12-> 5.13 routes. (Really any photos/stories would be appreciated)

The following are some cool one’s I’ve seen so far:


Six Star Crack

Brad Gobright Photo


Optimator

Photo by Even Stevens

Pink Flamingo??

Mikey Schaefer Photo?


Broken Brain




Learning to Fly



From Switzerland with Love





Burl Dog



Sig Saur



Both Photos by Joe


Air Swedin

Andrew Burr Photo

Thanks!

 Luke
Gal

Trad climber
a semi lucid consciousness
Feb 24, 2011 - 03:44pm PT
Cultureshock-those are some sweet photos!
Jeremy

Social climber
Albuquerque, NM
Feb 24, 2011 - 03:48pm PT
photo not found
Missing photo ID#192432
cultureshock

Trad climber
Mountain View
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 24, 2011 - 03:55pm PT
Close but I think it looks more like this:

IC Parking Lot
IC Parking Lot
Credit: Sonnie Trotter

:-D
cultureshock

Trad climber
Mountain View
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 25, 2011 - 03:20pm PT
Really? Nothing to add? Too many political threads to comment on?

Tricks are for Kids


Photo by Karsten
Prezwoodz

climber
Anchorage
Feb 25, 2011 - 03:36pm PT
I'm Game, although my photos are all of just the regular easier routes. :) Heres some pictures anyway.

Obligatory gear pile.


Supercrack Time!




Steve Omishcl tearing it up.






Mmmm blue...


And an even easier climb.




Go Huck!


Mmmm Indian Creek


Thought I would post this, its one of my favorites. On the way to Indian Creek at Wilsons Arch.

anees

climber
temporary exile from the land of enchantment
Feb 25, 2011 - 03:38pm PT
It seems like more of the current and past IC developers are over at MountainProject... but here's something to hopefully stoke the fire.

The cow skull on North Sixshooter!? It's jammed way back in the final chimney pitch. How long has it been there, how did it get there and why?

Base of Lightning Bolt Cracks, N Sixshooter
Base of Lightning Bolt Cracks, N Sixshooter
Credit: anees

Cow skull in final chimney pitch, Lightning Bolt Cracks
Cow skull in final chimney pitch, Lightning Bolt Cracks
Credit: anees
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Feb 25, 2011 - 03:50pm PT
Photos in a bit.

For now,

How do you tell it's spring in Moab?
valygrl

climber
Boulder, CO
Feb 25, 2011 - 03:53pm PT
The license plates turn green.

Duh.
Jobee

Social climber
El Portal Ca.
Feb 25, 2011 - 03:55pm PT
What a relief, an actual climbing thread; got me sooooo psyched!


Thanks cultureshock.
The Larry

climber
Moab, UT
Feb 25, 2011 - 04:14pm PT
Timmy O gearing up for a little highlining.
Timmy O gearing up for a little highlining.
Credit: The Larry

...and he's off.
...and he's off.
Credit: The Larry

Bridger Jack Highline
Bridger Jack Highline
Credit: The Larry

Getting ready to summit the King of Pain without actually climbing it.
Getting ready to summit the King of Pain without actually climbing it.
Credit: The Larry
TrundleBum

Trad climber
Las Vegas
Feb 25, 2011 - 05:27pm PT
First visit:
We drove into and car camped in the back of 'Fringe of Death' cyn.

TKingsbury

Trad climber
MT
Feb 25, 2011 - 05:39pm PT

Cyborg


Slice and Dice


T-day
max factor

Trad climber
Feb 25, 2011 - 08:01pm PT
At Your Cervix
At Your Cervix
Credit: max factor

Fatted Calf
Fatted Calf
Credit: max factor

Credit: max factor

Credit: max factor
Johnny K.

climber
Southern,California
Feb 25, 2011 - 08:12pm PT
Can you someone kidnap me and take me to indian creek?
Roxy

Trad climber
CA Central Coast
Feb 25, 2011 - 09:43pm PT
O. my. gawd. YES!!!!!!

I am lOVING this thread.

...whoops, I need a towel.


Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Feb 25, 2011 - 11:00pm PT
Max, that's from another year, right? Surely those meadows haven't turned purple yet, have they?
Name the climber, oops
Bob Soloing pitch one of Elephant man, Indian Creek
Bob Soloing pitch one of Elephant man, Indian Creek
Credit: Jaybro
9 Lives
9 Lives
Credit: Jaybro
Credit: Jaybro
Credit: Jaybro
What name do you use for this one?
Credit: Jaybro
Climb? Climbers?
Credit: Jaybro
Credit: Jaybro

Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Feb 27, 2011 - 11:35am PT
incredible!
Credit: Jaybro
cultureshock

Trad climber
Mountain View
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 28, 2011 - 12:54pm PT
Thanks for all the posts! Keeps the psyche HIGH!

Tom, that shot of Cyborg looks killer! I may have to try that thing I love finger cracks. Good to see a few foot holds!

Jaybro, what is the name of the climb in last shot (not the one of Shanti) in your first post? What about the corner to the right of the climber?

Freerider- Great photo. That climb looks steep. What name/crag??


 Luke
MisterE

Social climber
MEEPMEEPmeepMEEP
Feb 28, 2011 - 03:51pm PT
Sandstone splitter bump.

photo not found
Missing photo ID#192876

photo not found
Missing photo ID#192877
Melissa

Gym climber
berkeley, ca
Feb 28, 2011 - 03:54pm PT
Nice thread. I'd like to see a Pheonix-style TR of 6-Star or Tricks. Mark H...You got anything?

I don't think there's any IC in my spring. It's been a while, and I'd love another visit.
Melissa

Gym climber
berkeley, ca
Feb 28, 2011 - 04:25pm PT
photo not found
Missing photo ID#192879
photo not found
Missing photo ID#192880
photo not found
Missing photo ID#192881
photo not found
Missing photo ID#192882
Melissa

Gym climber
berkeley, ca
Feb 28, 2011 - 04:41pm PT
photo not found
Missing photo ID#192883
photo not found
Missing photo ID#192884
photo not found
Missing photo ID#192885
photo not found
Missing photo ID#192886
Melissa

Gym climber
berkeley, ca
Feb 28, 2011 - 04:48pm PT
photo not found
Missing photo ID#192887
photo not found
Missing photo ID#192890
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Feb 28, 2011 - 05:48pm PT
Then why are you on an indian Creek thread?
Just for the panties?



Luke, that's a climb at the cat wall that i've always heard referred to as F.T.S. for Fuk this sucks! 5.10c, but I think it has a more genteel name as well....
Vin

Trad climber
Louisiana
Feb 28, 2011 - 06:48pm PT
Spent some time in the creek in the summer of '10. Got really lucky with the weather, climbed from May to the end of June... chasing the shade of course, but it really wasn't too hot. Best fun of my life!!!!
Credit: Vin
snowhazed

Trad climber
Oaksterdam, CA
Mar 1, 2011 - 04:35am PT
No OW yet? Seriously?

Serrator
Serrator
Credit: John Vallejo

Tooth Fairy
Tooth Fairy
Credit: snowhazed
lemon_boy

climber
Mar 1, 2011 - 10:40am PT
hey mr e, which route is that 2nd photo. looks familiar (i guess a lot of 'em do). definitely looks awesome. great thread, love the photos.
hoipolloi

climber
A friends backyard with the neighbors wifi
Mar 1, 2011 - 11:49am PT
I was there most of November. It was a true love story...despite the snow (twice..)..


Tower in the sky!!!

Credit: hoipolloi


Weather the storm..


Credit: hoipolloi


Awesome Sunset...


Credit: hoipolloi


Some folks topping out the South Six.


Credit: hoipolloi


Awesome Rainbow

Credit: hoipolloi


Sunset climbing..

Credit: hoipolloi


Thanksgiving...booooo

Credit: hoipolloi


Learning to Fly...He cruised this thing like it was nothing...
It's a lot steeper than it looks in this photo, and it looks pretty steep...

Credit: hoipolloi

Credit: hoipolloi
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Mar 1, 2011 - 12:08pm PT
and there are good things around for rest days!
Credit: Jaybro
TKingsbury

Trad climber
MT
Mar 1, 2011 - 12:39pm PT
A few more...borrowed a couple from the brother and the Jeep threads...


Frosted Flakes



Decreation



Incredible Cat/Butt Crack



The Bellyful



The Brother



Ziji
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Mar 1, 2011 - 01:12pm PT
Where is the incredible cat butt?
hoipolloi

climber
A friends backyard with the neighbors wifi
Mar 1, 2011 - 01:14pm PT
I have a friend that did The Brother From Another Planet, he underclinged the whole roof...
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Mar 1, 2011 - 01:17pm PT
cheater....

Hoi, you going to Scuffy's thursday?
cultureshock

Trad climber
Mountain View
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 1, 2011 - 01:19pm PT
Anyone willing to give comparison between Digital Readout, Ruby's Cafe, Death of a Cowboy, Winner Takes All and Learning to Fly? So LTF is super steep? Sounds pumpy!

Incredible Butt Crack:
http://www.mountainproject.com/v/utah/moab_area/indian_creek/106289131

PS. Jaybro, what is the name of the climb in the photo in your first post just above Shanti? What about the corner to the right of the climber?

 Luke
TKingsbury

Trad climber
MT
Mar 1, 2011 - 01:48pm PT
TKingsbury

Trad climber
MT
Mar 1, 2011 - 02:11pm PT
one more from Cyborg

Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Mar 1, 2011 - 02:29pm PT
Luke see post above from yesterday.
Melissa

Gym climber
berkeley, ca
Mar 1, 2011 - 02:33pm PT
I am so nostalgic for the way that it feels to hang out at camp in IC on a sunny morning waiting for the sun to hit the crags that I could cry. Thanks for sharing your pics.
ionlyski

Trad climber
Kalispell, Montana
Mar 1, 2011 - 02:33pm PT
I saw the cow skull in the back of the crack on Lighting Bolt too in October. I had a little adrenaline taste in my mouth when I got to the OW, so it busted me up pretty funny to come upon it. Who's prank?
Arne
cultureshock

Trad climber
Mountain View
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 1, 2011 - 02:45pm PT
Right, thanks..

Here's a couple from my last trip to the creek.

Cover shot!
Cover shot!
Credit: cultureshock

Guess the route!

Way Rambo!
Way Rambo!
Credit: cultureshock

Photos by Lizzy



 Luke
10b4me

Ice climber
Happy Boulders
Mar 1, 2011 - 03:37pm PT
Are those parallel cracks the Twin Cracks?
Nice shot of the 3AM crack
snowhazed

Trad climber
Oaksterdam, CA
Mar 1, 2011 - 06:41pm PT
bump cuz I just planned my spring trip
snowhazed

Trad climber
Oaksterdam, CA
Mar 1, 2011 - 06:43pm PT
oh yeah- here's an old trip report with lots of photos

http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/822184/Spring-in-Splitterville-Photo-TR
Aya K

Trad climber
New York
Mar 1, 2011 - 07:36pm PT
Credit: Aya K
P.Kingsbury

Trad climber
the jeep
Mar 2, 2011 - 01:38am PT



The Blue Ribbon.



left crack


"I have a friend that did The Brother From Another Planet, he underclinged the whole roof..."




casual.

cheers,

Patrick
hossjulia

Social climber
Eastside
Mar 2, 2011 - 11:08am PT
Credit: hossjulia

Sure miss this place, April is probably a good time, eh? May head this way after Flanders fundraiser.
goatboy smellz

climber
Nederland
Mar 2, 2011 - 11:27am PT

snowhazed

Trad climber
Oaksterdam, CA
Mar 3, 2011 - 12:44am PT
more!
ddriver

Trad climber
SLC, UT
Mar 3, 2011 - 10:30am PT
More pics, nothing great, but fun to look at nonetheless.

Credit: ddriver

Credit: ddriver

Credit: ddriver

Credit: ddriver

Credit: ddriver
ct

climber
CO
Mar 3, 2011 - 11:20am PT
Planning my spring rendezvous with snowhazed and getting psyched... the desert is a special place.

Also always wondered about the cow skull in the Lightning Bolts. Liquid Sky is one of the all time dream routes for me...

That blue ribbon route looks pretty sweet and the layback on Big Guy made me snort coffee!

Credit: ct

Credit: ct

Credit: ct

Credit: ct

Credit: ct

Credit: ct

Credit: ct

Credit: ct

Credit: ct

Credit: ct

Credit: ct

Credit: ct

caughtinside

Social climber
Davis, CA
Mar 3, 2011 - 12:43pm PT


Good times, amiga!
caughtinside

Social climber
Davis, CA
Mar 3, 2011 - 12:44pm PT


redpoint psyche.
Melissa

Gym climber
berkeley, ca
Mar 3, 2011 - 12:47pm PT
What climb is that? King Cat?
caughtinside

Social climber
Davis, CA
Mar 3, 2011 - 12:48pm PT


I'm on a mission to send every former 12- that has been downrated to hard 11.
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Mar 3, 2011 - 01:02pm PT
Thank gawd I did most of 'em when they were still twelves!
caughtinside

Social climber
Davis, CA
Mar 3, 2011 - 01:02pm PT
Melissa, that is Dos Hermanos in donnelly.
cultureshock

Trad climber
Mountain View
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 3, 2011 - 01:03pm PT
So Coyne, Anunnaki and Way Rambo? Maybe Puma too...

What about some 5.11+ that should be 5.12- (aka Quarter of a Man)

Melissa, how is Camping under the Influence? Fun but hard at the top?

CT, is that first photo of Cosmic Relief? Good Climb? What is the name of climb in the photo after the one of Anunnaki??

Anyone know what climb is in freerider's photo near the beginning of the thread?

caughtinside

Social climber
Davis, CA
Mar 3, 2011 - 01:06pm PT
Coyne, annunaki, Way Rambo, Dos Hermanos, Sig Sauer and prolly top sirloin? I'm sure there are more.
cultureshock

Trad climber
Mountain View
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 3, 2011 - 01:07pm PT
Oh no. Sig Saur got downgraded... Damn!
Melissa

Gym climber
berkeley, ca
Mar 3, 2011 - 01:11pm PT
IIRC, I fell on the last move or two going for the anchors, and I was following. J (in the pic) led and sent the top w/ style. I'll post pics when I'm on my own computer. You can see the delicate move over.

Quarter of a Man got downgraded in the first Bloom guide.

Way Rambo got another downgrade?

That's like, "Here's what Santa brought you, little girl...Psyche! The grinch is taking it back!"

Is this the edict of the new guidebook, Mountain Project...?
snowhazed

Trad climber
Oaksterdam, CA
Mar 3, 2011 - 01:30pm PT
the pic after anunaki on ct's post is Broken Tooth 12-

getting psyched for springtime in splitterville!
lemon_boy

climber
Mar 3, 2011 - 02:41pm PT
anybody know what that sweet splitter in mrE's post (2nd photo i think)? looks soooo nice.
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Mar 3, 2011 - 02:44pm PT
You don't have to go by a book's opinion on ratings, when you know better.

Example #1) Quarter of a man is harder than tales of Power
Melissa

Gym climber
berkeley, ca
Mar 3, 2011 - 02:45pm PT
You do when the book says they are harder than you know. ;-)
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Mar 3, 2011 - 02:47pm PT
yeah, ya know?
ct

climber
CO
Mar 3, 2011 - 03:15pm PT
Yep, Comic Relief in the top photo and Broken Tooth in the bottom. Broken Tooth is top 3 in my book.

I thought polygrip was stout at 11+, and Egg Drop Soup on the Bridgers feels hard to me, whatever it's rated. Meathooks is hard for me at 11- and Sacred Cow beat me up pretty good last time too. Thought the Pastafarian was also spicy and hard at the grade.

More creek-ness.
Credit: ct

Credit: ct
Anybody been on this beauty?

Credit: ct

10b4me

Ice climber
Happy Boulders
Mar 3, 2011 - 03:27pm PT
Chambered Round on the Pistol Whipped Wall is pretty fun
caughtinside

Social climber
Davis, CA
Mar 3, 2011 - 04:11pm PT
Sorry to be the grinch here melissa! I shouldn't have mentioned grades since they're all good climbs and it's a fun thread. Anyway, as everybody who has climbed there knows it is all hand/finger size dependent anyway.
Melissa

Gym climber
berkeley, ca
Mar 3, 2011 - 06:51pm PT
That doesn't make it any less fun to send an inflated #. :-p
P.Kingsbury

Trad climber
the jeep
Mar 3, 2011 - 10:59pm PT
Hey CT, if your less than 150 lbs Liquid Sky really isn't that bad. Not even going to speculate on the grade.

What would this thread be with out a shot of Alf?



wondering what bolt will suffice for an anchor.....



ruby's



full pbr



empty pbr


cheers,

Patrick
Marshall

climber
bay area
Mar 3, 2011 - 11:17pm PT

nice photos everybody! here's a couple more:

something at pistol whipped?


rock lobster


slice n dice


johnny cat


swedin ringle


evening glory shot
cultureshock

Trad climber
Mountain View
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 7, 2011 - 03:40pm PT
Awesome photos. The one at Pistol Whipped looks like Coyote Essence. PBR sounds pretty wicked. Nice angle of Ruby's.



Another one of Swedin-Ringle!

 Luke
anees

climber
temporary exile from the land of enchantment
Mar 7, 2011 - 05:23pm PT
If Puma hasn't been downgraded from 12- yet, it should be. It's the only "12" I've ever had any success with at the Creek. I thought it was easier than Johnny Cat, and I've got big fingers so Johnny Cat is better for me than most people.
Tork

climber
Yosemite
Mar 7, 2011 - 05:41pm PT
Credit: Tork

Credit: Les

Credit: Tork

Credit: Tork

Credit: Tork
cultureshock

Trad climber
Mountain View
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 9, 2011 - 02:03pm PT
10 days and counting!

Couple more shots:

Soul-Fire
Soul-Fire
Credit: cultureshock

Mantel Illness
Mantel Illness
Credit: cultureshock

If anyone is in the Creek week after next say HI. I'll be in the bright blue tacoma.

 Luke
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Mar 9, 2011 - 02:11pm PT
If Puma hasn't been downgraded from 12- yet, it should be. It's the only "12" I've ever had any success with at the Creek.

Wrong criteria, that's what makes this "insecure"* rating happen in the first place. It's Okay, you Are worthy...

Speaking of inflation Meathooks is .11 now?




* "Climbing ratings the innocent the Ignorant and the Insecure" Jim Bridwell, circa '73
jsj

climber
Boulder
Mar 9, 2011 - 04:15pm PT
This time last year I climbed my second 5.13 at Indian Creek. The first was everyone's first, Ruby's Cafe.

I started working Ruby's Cafe in 2005 in an effort to play nicely with the climbers I was with at the time. I usually find I have the most fun climbing with partners who are psyched, regardless of ability, but I learn the most climbing with those that are better. On that particular day I was climbing with a 5.14 climber and his 5.13 climbing girlfriend as they worked on Ruby's. I gave it two TR burns. On my first burn I was able to get a fully no-hands rest in the roof - you've seen the knee bar, but I could drop both hands from the knee bar. Geometry is a strange thing and nowhere are its affects more apparent than in the desert's perfect angles. On my second burn I one-hanged it at the changing corners crux. Both of these burns filled me with excitement (and perhaps overconfidence) for the route, and the grade: I had never climbed a 5.13, and I began to dream my very first would be at my very favorite place in the world - Indian Creek.

A quick send was not in the cards. A few months later I had a bad ground fall and broke both my ankles. For several months (and through several surgeries) I contemplated Ruby's Cafe from a wheelchair. I decided that if I could return to climbing, I would climb that route, but if I couldn't return to climbing at that level, I would find a new sport. As it happened I returned to climbing, and it wasn't long before I had done a few 5.13 sport climbs. Ruby's took much longer. A year or two longer... Mainly, the issue was endless one-hanging the changing corners. And ripped skin. I had two burns on a given day before I'd open up little tiny gobies on the sides of my middle and ring fingers. They weren't bloody gobies, just little weepy spots on the sides of the knuckles. You've been on Ruby's - you know what I'm talking about. So, on about 4 consecutive trips to Indian Creek I'd end up climbing exactly two routes: some 5.11 warmup and then two burns on Ruby's. The Battle of the Bulge is popular, but no one wants to go there every day so this got old very fast. Then there was the process of borrowing 0.4 Camalots. I had 3, and I also had a few Yellow Aliens which I didn't trust, so I had to go through this routine of borrowing about 5 more each morning. That got old. Then there was temperature. That route bakes by late morning and no one gets up early at the Creek. The problem I have with heat is I have good circulation and moist skin and the heat makes my skin very soft. The little Ruby's gobies on the sides of your fingers were much easier to control if you get on it early.

I've never been one to get stronger. It's always been about learning subtleties and refining each and every movement. For this reason I'm sure that my hardest ascents have been at my absolute limit, and actually climbing those routes involves everything being perfect. This is a very satisfying experience, but I'm sure I could climb better if I would simply train. Perhaps Ruby's would have gone down faster, but instead I would rack every piece on the correct side of my harness, put on my knee pad, think ninja thoughts, and cast off into one-hangdom.

There were three little details that allowed me to finally send Ruby's Cafe. The first came quickly and that was realizing that, while liebacking, the geometry of the climb and my body were such that I could press my lower arm's elbow into the knee of my upper foot, creating a very stable triangle figure that somehow took all the weight off my muscles and put all the weight onto my skeleton. I could place gear very easily on that route and I considered 80% of the route (apart from changing corners and the roof) to be restful. I'd usually place two cams side by side then punch it 10 feet and place another pair. This is my preferred method in the Creek. The second detail was learning how to fully stand on the upper "slab" right under the roof to rest. I spent 15 minutes here on the send. If you trust the rubber and drop your heels, you stick. You can get most of it back. But the real key was learning how to place my foot at the changing corners. There's a little undulation on the "arete" that makes a good foothold and allows you to stand up into the upper corner, marking the end of the crux, but every time I'd try to get my foot onto it, my other foot would pop and I'd go flying. I remembered watching that 5.13 climbing girl have no problems with this but flail on the liebacks. What was her secret? The secret was the rand of my Miuras. The sole would be pasted in that shallow corner, the edge flirting with the thin crack, but where it came together was learning that I could torque my ankle and press the rand of the rubber against the inside face of the corner. This gave some imperceptible but somehow significant amount of friction: as I lifted my other foot up to that mini-arete, I'd feel the fingers of both my hand sliding out of their jams - a sensation I'd grown accustomed to. But this time the lower foot didn't slip, I planted the upper foot and was able to thrutch my fingers back into their jams. The gobies had formed, but the route was mine.

Later I heard someone call Ruby's 5.12+. Asshole.
jsj

climber
Boulder
Mar 9, 2011 - 04:35pm PT
So this past spring I wanted a new 5.13. Everyone talks about the Optimator. But that was "real Indian Creek 5.13"... I needed another one of those wimpy 5.13's. My only rule was that it had to be at a cliff that everyone wants to go to. That meant Pink Flamingo (another "real" 5.13) and Air Swedin. As it turns out, on the first day of the trip I followed my friends to Scarface. Why doesn't anyone talk about the 5.13 there? There's a totally rad picture of it in the first edition of the guidebook no less!

I'll give it a go. My first burn on the route went very well and I knew immediately that it would go much quicker for me than Ruby's. This isn't because the route is easier necessarily, but like everything at the Creek, it's size dependent. For me, I can jam 0.3 Camalots. Yes, it's just the first knuckle of my pinky or index finger that will fit, but they fit. The crux of this route is two campus moves off 0.3 Camalot jams. This comes after underclinging out right, reaching around the corner and blindly placing an old-style 0.3 Camalot. The newer 0.3 C4's are ever-so-slightly larger and you need those ever-so-slightly larger spots for the fingies. Of course Green Aliens would also fit but we don't trust those. So that was my first day on the route. Afterwards I went on to get my knee stuck in Big Guy which was rather terrifying.

Day 2 went something like this: Reach around the corner with the right hand, thumbs down, and jam the first knuckle of the index finger (and first pad of the middle finger of course). Locker! Then just swing my body around the corner, sagging onto that knuckle, paste my feet and campus! Left hand gets a knuckle of the pinky in, and (bonus!) the first pad of the ring finger. Scott was shouting. I think I may have said something like "Oh dear Lord!" Paste the feet higher and campus up into a flared hand jam. A couple rattly finger locks to a huck for the hero jug! Feet cut loose and I'm hanging there one armed like Stevie Haston! I even chalked up in homage to Yabo and the Stonemasters. From here it's 100' of the best 5.10 handcrack in the Creek.

So why doesn't anyone talk about Death of a Cowboy? I suppose because for the larger-fingered... it is really, really hard. Either that, or it's just another 5.12+.
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Mar 9, 2011 - 05:00pm PT


Nice, JSJ!

-Tricks?
-The Belly?
-Something new?
jsj

climber
Boulder
Mar 9, 2011 - 05:02pm PT
You want another story?
cultureshock

Trad climber
Mountain View
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 9, 2011 - 05:11pm PT
Yes Please!!! Guess that seals the deal about which route to try. I can jam green aliens pretty well.

Good work!

 Luke
jsj

climber
Boulder
Mar 9, 2011 - 05:52pm PT
So that is day two of a three week trip and things are just going to go downhill unless I pick something new. OK, Air Swedin it is. I tried it a couple times, but there's something I seriously hate about this route. It's not the fact that there's potential for huge air time on tiny gear. It's not even the fact that it's at Battle of the Bulge.

It's the fact that it's on top of Swedin Ringle - one of the worst routes in Indian Creek.

Then something interesting happened. I got distracted. Now, perhaps it's presumptuous for me to say this, but I'm going to speculate that the real challenges at Indian Creek are the 12+'s. Maybe downgrading Ruby's would actually imply that it's harder than it is. So, I got distracted. And not only was it not a 5.13, but it also wasn't in the "sure bets" section in the back of my guidebook, which I had been religiously ticking away at. This is how it happened:

On an early trip to Indian Creek I went to the Cat Wall and got totally bouted on Johnny Cat. Since then I had reason to believe I had improved at this size (I had sent Moonlight afterall), so I went for revenge. The thing is, I arrived at the chains and decided (as on Swedin-Ringle) they didn't belong there. But at least people weren't topropping the sh#t out of Johnny Cat after hangdogging their way up it or, worse, swinging over from 3 AM. What lies beyond the chains of Johnny Cat? A huge, maybe 20', roof followed by a long headwall. It's called Tasmania, it's 5.12+, and it is mind-blowingly out there.

This is how it goes: Once you climb past the chains you have super burly underclinging with hard-to-place gear. The problem is the wall your feet are pasted against is sloping away and downwards and it's just a little bit silty. This is terrifying, and when you're out there, cheek or forehead groping against the roof for traction and considering the consequences of a blown clip and a fall, it becomes very apparent that Johnny Cat is actually quite slabby. Several times I'd place the cams but couldn't get the rope clipped before a foot would explosively skate off and I'd nearly pitch. Somehow I'd stay on and frantically clip and exclaim something like "oh my God I almost died!". Did I mention this happened several times? My belayers ate that sh#t up and I aim to please. I eventually solved this problem by having two cams pre-clipped to the rope via long slings; I'd just unclip them from my harness and shove 'em in.

Above lies creative stemming, liebacks, jams, a huge knee-jam cavity that accepts a 3.5 Camalot but not really a new #4. Then things get hard. There are a couple knee-scums and shallow hip-scums, then it's 0.4 Camalots in a flare tapering to Green Aliens all the way up the headwall to the anchors. I thought I could jam Green Aliens. Not these Green Aliens. Clipping the anchors was a crux. A foot higher would make the route 5.13, a foot lower would make the route 5.12. As it was? I don't know.

So what about Air Swedin? God damn. Tasmania is Bad-Ass and no one climbs it!

For a couple days I had been sending the route if I counted the top as my last piece - placed one foot below the level of the anchor. My partner said I should just rest at the Johnny Cat anchors and send from there. Somehow that didn't feel right to me. But climbing is sometimes about making compromises so instead of a quickdraw I hung a shoulder-length sling from one of the Metolius Rap Hangers and we headed back to camp for the evening. To this day I still feel guilty about it, but it was March 31st and my time at the Creek was coming to a close.

The next day the gate to the Cat Wall was padlocked shut. A sign was posted indicating raptor closures. Hmmm it would have been nice if they had posted the sign before the morning of the closure. Even 24 hours notice would have prevented me from leaving my rope and rack up there and, more importantly, that shoulder-length sling - flopping about in the breeze like a banner declaring my mediocrity.

I should say I love Indian Creek and am usually quick to argue that there are actually not enough regulations there. Apparently I'm borderline something called a "deep ecologist" because I would rather see the whole place shut down (to myself included) than see it get destroyed any further. I know that makes me unpopular, and I'm sorry I actually scolded you for not using a wag bag that one time. I also don't understand why people go to Indian Creek to camp in big turkey-eating, drum-beating, bro-brah, chicks-in-down-and-ducktape posses... seems kinda anathema to the desert. But I guess I'm a hypocrite cuz I use chalk and sometimes I do need to borrow 5x 0.4 Camalots. And don't get me started on Swedin-Ringle... OK, back to the story.

So it was the spirit of the law that day (I don't think the raptors planning on moving into the knee-jam cavity were upset about the delay) and the bad influence of my partner (she said something like, "F*#k yeah we're going up there and you're getting your sling down after you send the sh#t out of that route!"). It was a long walk but it gave me plenty of time to go over the crucial beta: You will be pumped out of your mind but you should still try to clip that sling no matter what.

I don't know what was more satisfying: Climbing Johnny Cat like it was 5.7 or the gritty, bloody battle - ugly and absolute - played out on the headwall of Tasmania. Only 12+? Maybe.

Maybe not.
caughtinside

Social climber
Davis, CA
Mar 9, 2011 - 06:07pm PT
so how 'bout that Swedin Ringle! And the Air Sweden? The R is for Rad!!


Just messing with ya. Thanks, those are good stories.
caughtinside

Social climber
Davis, CA
Mar 9, 2011 - 06:11pm PT
http://www.mountainproject.com/v/general_climbing/sometimes_its_ok_to_sew_it_up_/107061028__1

borrowed from the mountainproject, an exciting vid of the Disco Machine Gun.
jsj

climber
Boulder
Mar 9, 2011 - 06:14pm PT
Key beta on Disco Machine Gun is to take, not fall =)
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Mar 9, 2011 - 06:52pm PT
Cool stuff!
Melissa

Gym climber
berkeley, ca
Mar 9, 2011 - 07:02pm PT
Anyone have a link to the famous Handsome B header photo sequence on (off) of Ruby's?

My search turned up dead pics.
anees

climber
temporary exile from the land of enchantment
Mar 9, 2011 - 07:34pm PT
If Puma hasn't been downgraded from 12- yet, it should be. It's the only "12" I've ever had any success with at the Creek.

Wrong criteria, that's what makes this "insecure"* rating happen in the first place. It's Okay, you Are worthy...

Heh... it's both tough and amusing to be told that you suffer from "fundamental emotional immaturity" (Bridwell's explanation for the insecure downgrading). Here I thought I was being objective and honest. Maybe it's insecurity... but I really did think that a less-than-vertical crack with bomber fingerlocks and decent feet (i.e. Puma) just wasn't as hard as other IC 12s. Maybe it's just that Puma is not quite so purely splitter and enduro as most 12- routes there.
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Mar 9, 2011 - 07:41pm PT
Or that your hands fit, that's what they always tell me.....

I was commenting that a lot of people at all kinds of places do that. "IT can't be X, because, I can do it". Again not a valid criteria. It assumes you always climb the same, no ups and downs, etc.

There were a bunch of climbs in Vedauwoo, Horn's Mother, Boardwalk, and in it's grade bell crack, that were rated way low originally of this scheme, and now are stiff for the grade at a higher rating.


the Ruby's crater sequence is something to see, but so is that Bad Brains whipper poster!


Johnny Cat suits my finger size, woot!
bluering

Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
Mar 9, 2011 - 07:52pm PT
Cool pics!!!

I think that belayer in the video was just as freaked. Seeing the gear rip and the climber come raining down on you.
Trashman

Trad climber
SLC
Mar 9, 2011 - 08:52pm PT
I love Indian Creek and am usually quick to argue that there are actually not enough regulations there. . .because I would actually rather see the whole place shut down (to myself included) than see it get destroyed any further.

mostly agree w/ you here, so it's worth noting that Pink Flamingo is a no go due to petroglyphs(the "flamingo"). not sure if the anchors are still there,(heard rumors of some of the FOIC crew pulling them), but the route should be avoided in any case.
jsj

climber
Utah
Mar 9, 2011 - 09:18pm PT
I've heard the pink flamingo petroglyphs were actually made in recent, recorded history, but I could be wrong. When I looked at them they (the bird and the sun next to it) appeared very different than any other petroglyph I've seen in the desert. Namely, they are etched much deeper into the rock than you typically see, and the designs are unlike any others I've seen. I'm no expert though.

I'd love to hear from a real anthropologist as to whether or not they're authentic. Whether they are or not they're fantastic.
MisterE

Social climber
Cinderella Story, Outa Nowhere
Mar 9, 2011 - 09:30pm PT
Great stories, jsj.
Tork

climber
Yosemite
Mar 9, 2011 - 10:23pm PT
Ya Josh, fun read!
Chinchen

climber
Way out there....
Mar 9, 2011 - 11:01pm PT
Awesome thread!!
GOclimb

Trad climber
Boston, MA
Mar 10, 2011 - 12:41am PT


Yours truly heading into the offwidth on Pussy Wuss Crack.

GO
bjj

climber
beyond the sun
Mar 10, 2011 - 04:19am PT
No photos, but on my last trip there years ago I did a full moon onsight of supercrack, and the next night, me and 3 buddies did a moonlight ascent on the Kor Ingalls on Castleton. Got drunk as hell on top and slept up there until sunup. Still pretty buzzed during the rappels and hike back. Good times.
o-man

Trad climber
Paia,Maui,HI
Mar 10, 2011 - 05:12am PT
Scott Woodruff climbing cracks in Indian Creek very early 80's. <br/>
It w...
Scott Woodruff climbing cracks in Indian Creek very early 80's.
It was a different game before "Friends" came along!
photo: Olaf Mitchell
Credit: o-man
philo

Trad climber
Somewhere halfway over the rainbow
Mar 10, 2011 - 11:16am PT
It was a different game before "Friends" came along!


Boy aint that the troof.
GOclimb

Trad climber
Boston, MA
Mar 10, 2011 - 11:58am PT
The user known as Freerider posted this but never identified what it is.

Anyone know?



GO
GOclimb

Trad climber
Boston, MA
Mar 10, 2011 - 12:21pm PT
Hey Vin, what's this?



GO
caughtinside

Social climber
Davis, CA
Mar 10, 2011 - 12:33pm PT
Is that Blue Sun?
cultureshock

Trad climber
Mountain View
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 10, 2011 - 12:51pm PT
That last one really does look like blue Sun.

I wish I knew what the upper photo was... Looks Steep!

 Luke
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Mar 10, 2011 - 01:41pm PT
Creek Jones.....
jsj

climber
Utah
Mar 10, 2011 - 02:03pm PT
It's called Run Like Hell.
GOclimb

Trad climber
Boston, MA
Mar 10, 2011 - 03:05pm PT
Blue Sun and Run Like Hell. Sweet, thanks for the info!

And the Judge looks awesome too!!!

Man, 60 degrees out and sunny right now. Wish I was there....

Way too excited to be able to focus and be a good keyboard jockey.

GO
GOclimb

Trad climber
Boston, MA
Mar 11, 2011 - 03:35pm PT
CT (or anyone else who knows)

What are these? They look super awesome!





GO
cultureshock

Trad climber
Mountain View
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 11, 2011 - 04:32pm PT
Someone posted the answer up thread. Lost in the chaos :-D

The top one is Broken Tooth

The bottom one is Comic Relief

 Luke
GOclimb

Trad climber
Boston, MA
Mar 11, 2011 - 05:07pm PT
jsj, just read your story about Tasmania. very cool, thanks for sharing!

GO
nutjob

Gym climber
Berkeley, CA
Mar 11, 2011 - 05:33pm PT
Man oh man, I've never been to Indian Creek and it looks like my cup o' tea. Gimme a mouthful of splitters to gobble down....

GOclimb

Trad climber
Boston, MA
Mar 11, 2011 - 06:16pm PT
thanks cultureshock!

GO
eliot carlsen

Social climber
San Diego
Mar 16, 2011 - 05:49pm PT
Bump for the trip Luke!
Indian Creek goodness
Indian Creek goodness
Credit: eliot carlsen
cultureshock

Trad climber
Mountain View
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 16, 2011 - 07:45pm PT
Thanks dude.

What route is that?

 Luke
eliot carlsen

Social climber
San Diego
Mar 16, 2011 - 08:43pm PT
Wild Cat!
http://mountainproject.com/v/utah/moab_area/indian_creek/105883363

Pretty challenging ring locks and finger stacks. Recommended though if you're looking for that size.
Gobi

Trad climber
Orange CA
Mar 25, 2011 - 02:22am PT
Credit: Gobi
Credit: Gobi
Credit: Gobi
Credit: Gobi
Credit: Gobi
Credit: Gobi
Credit: Gobi
Credit: Gobi
Credit: Gobi
Credit: Gobi
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Mar 25, 2011 - 02:34am PT
It's even better than you imagine, Nutjbo, er, I mean, It's All Cimbed Out!
TKingsbury

Trad climber
MT
Mar 25, 2011 - 10:12am PT
stellar bump/pics Gobi!
Roxy

Trad climber
CA Central Coast
Mar 25, 2011 - 10:27am PT
I love this thread, love it!!!!!!!!!!!!
steveA

Trad climber
bedford,massachusetts
Mar 25, 2011 - 02:51pm PT
Bump for the Creek.
cultureshock

Trad climber
Mountain View
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 30, 2011 - 03:50pm PT
Gobi,

That last photo is of Six Star Crack right? How is the approach pitch? I read it had some bolts. Fun climbing?

I'll have some photos up soon from my trip. Look for a TR a bit later.

Had a good time, did a bit of exploring and I can't wait to go back!

 Luke
gonz

Trad climber
yosemite
Mar 30, 2011 - 08:12pm PT
Credit: gonz
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Mar 30, 2011 - 08:19pm PT
Prettty sure it's been washed out in recent storms. Don't bother going there. The 'in' people all go to Bountiful Utah and Winnemucca!
Gobi

Trad climber
Orange CA
Apr 1, 2011 - 01:25am PT
Cultureshock
The last photo is of a climb called Hong Kong Phooey. Six Star crack is awsome, the approch pitch is not fun and a little loose. There are two bolts tht protect a 5.12 crux near the end. Second pitch is mega awsome and REALLY hard if you have bigger hands.

The Six Star Crack
The Six Star Crack
Credit: Gobi

Credit: Gobi
cultureshock

Trad climber
Mountain View
Topic Author's Reply - May 19, 2011 - 04:47pm PT
Finally finished a write-up for the trip that inspired this thread:

http://www.dreaminvertical.com/2011/05/forgotten-photos-and-a-story-from-indian-creek/




Enjoy the photos!

 Luke
BrassNuts

Trad climber
Save your a_s, reach for the brass...
May 19, 2011 - 05:01pm PT
BITD vs. now
Donnelly Canyon, 1983
Donnelly Canyon, 1983
Credit: BrassNuts
Donnelly Canyon, 2011
Donnelly Canyon, 2011
Credit: BrassNuts
cultureshock

Trad climber
Mountain View
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 9, 2012 - 03:51pm PT
Bump for creek season!
gonzo chemist

climber
Fort Collins, CO
Apr 9, 2012 - 03:55pm PT
Perfect timing for this thread bump! I'm headed out there on Wednesday. Never been before. SO PSYCHED!
GOclimb

Trad climber
Boston, MA
Apr 9, 2012 - 04:26pm PT
Love this thread...

From my latest trip - Digital Readout


GO
The Alpine

Big Wall climber
May 9, 2012 - 11:56pm PT
No sh#t, there I was...

Tork

climber
Yosemite
Nov 8, 2012 - 03:39pm PT
Awesome wavey splitter far left Cliffs of Insanity
Awesome wavey splitter far left Cliffs of Insanity
Credit: Tork

Broken Brain
Broken Brain
Credit: Tork

4x4
4x4
Credit: Tork

Credit: Tork
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Nov 8, 2012 - 09:36pm PT
With the village people?
cultureshock

Trad climber
Mountain View
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 21, 2013 - 11:53am PT
Bump for creek season!
spectreman

Trad climber
Mar 21, 2013 - 08:26pm PT
Credit: spectreman

Credit: spectreman

Credit: spectreman
Tork

climber
Yosemite
Mar 21, 2013 - 09:22pm PT
I never see anyone on the Bad Rad and it is sweet

Credit: Tork
cultureshock

Trad climber
Mountain View
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 18, 2013 - 06:36pm PT
Another Bump! Just got back from the desert. Will be posting up some photos soon.
jewedlaw

Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
Apr 18, 2013 - 06:49pm PT
And I'm headed there next weekend! SO stoked!!!
crøtch

climber
Apr 18, 2013 - 07:41pm PT
Bad Rad is sweet, but a sandbag.
Kalimon

Social climber
Ridgway, CO
Apr 18, 2013 - 08:47pm PT
If you all love the Creek so much then leave your chalk bags at home. Tim Kudo schooled us T-riders years ago and he was right, you don't need chalk here. It desecrates the beautifully colored stone, increases one's pump and due to the arid environment, is not washed away.
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Apr 18, 2013 - 09:39pm PT










That is, one school of thought...
RyanD

climber
Squamish
Apr 18, 2013 - 10:48pm PT
Ohhhhhh what a killer thread, headed there in about 10 days or so for the first time, so psyched!
thebravecowboy

Social climber
Colorado Plateau
Apr 18, 2013 - 11:36pm PT
phattest phall I've yet seen caught by a .4 C4; my buddy greased off p1 of some orthogonal L-facing EZ 5.9 dihedral near Belly Full of Bad Berries. I wasn't belaying - one minute my buddy was 40' up, obviously sketching but going for it. the fall was dead silent. I just looked over and there was Conrad, dangling about 8 feet off the deck with this weird look on his face. I hadda finish the pitch.

photo not found
Missing photo ID#299489

photo not found
Missing photo ID#299491

photo not found
Missing photo ID#299492
cultureshock

Trad climber
Mountain View
Topic Author's Reply - May 7, 2013 - 04:43pm PT
Bump for a TR and some more photos:

http://www.dreaminvertical.com/2013/05/two-weeks-at-indian-creek/



Bad Cat



Broken Brain


Enjoy,

Luke
Tork

climber
Yosemite
May 7, 2013 - 06:17pm PT
Awesome Luke!
Rhodo-Router

Gym climber
sawatch choss
May 7, 2013 - 06:18pm PT
Damn! that Broken Brain looks good.
Tork

climber
Yosemite
May 7, 2013 - 07:13pm PT
Broken Brain is sooooo good, mostly hands. A short wide section with a bolt. But those last 25' or so of .75 then .5 Camalots shut me down on lead. I did get it on tr after though...still a big jump to get it on lead.
Tork

climber
Yosemite
May 7, 2013 - 07:19pm PT
5.11 to this point, then it gets real.

BROKEN BRAIN
BROKEN BRAIN
Credit: Tork
SicMic

climber
two miles from Eldorado
Feb 3, 2014 - 05:18pm PT
We rated Bad Rad Duality 5.10+.

Nobody is going to downrate it. That was the point.
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