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martygarrison

Trad climber
The Great North these days......
Topic Author's Original Post - Feb 24, 2009 - 05:55pm PT
Much like my Tales post, any stories or pics on this classic? Was too hard for me but always a goal....
Mark Hudon

Trad climber
Hood River, OR
Feb 24, 2009 - 06:25pm PT
Second ascent, May 1978. Notably, the ONLY Non-Cam ascent.

Looking up from the bottom. Notice Ray's pinned out corner. We thought it was pretty gross when we got there and saw what he had done.



Starting the crux.



I popped my shoulder right after this move.




It took us four days of work. We would usually give it one burn each. I was doing better on it than Max was so it was me who was placing the gear and moving the rope up. We had a moral point as to how far up we wanted to yo-yo the thing though.




On the third day, on my first try, I blasted past the crux, past our high point and was going for the top. I was really going for it. I was maybe 15 feet out from my last piece and was placing a #8 hex. It wasn't too good and as I moved past it I kicked it with my foot and it tipped out. I was looking a big air so I reached over to the rope my brother was hanging on, taking pictures and batmaned to the top. We took a rest day (Free climbed to Mammoth on the Salathe)
As we were rapping down on the last day Max said that if we didn't get it that day he didn't want to come back. I felt the same way. I went up, got into the crux and separated (semi-dislocated) my shoulder, a not uncommon occurrence at that time in my life.
I lowered off and Max went up. He didn't even get to his previous high point and lowered off. I rested a bit, started up and climbed it to the top. At the last move, I was reaching for the crack on the slab and missed it by an inch. My fingers skidded to the edge, I recomposed and tossed again, getting it. I pulled over onto the slab and started crying.









Placing gear on with my foot on the ramp near the top on my successful ascent.



I stabbed at the crack, missed and my fingers drug back to here. I stabbed again and did it.



It was the hardest route of my life, I had popped my shoulder earlier that day and we had spent four days on it, more than any other route at that time.



We used to pay my brother with six packs to hang and take photos of us. He was there for two days on Tales and here on the Phoenix all four days. He had my camera and Max's camera, that's why I don't have any photos of Max on the route.
Mike Bolte

Trad climber
Planet Earth
Feb 24, 2009 - 06:27pm PT
Mark - you have posted some outstanding photos the last few days! Thanks and keep it up!
steelmnkey

climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
Feb 24, 2009 - 06:30pm PT
Ditto on that photo thing... that's a really nice shot.
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Feb 24, 2009 - 06:42pm PT
Yup.
That's the *money* shot.
Nice story too.
martygarrison

Trad climber
The Great North these days......
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 24, 2009 - 07:20pm PT
great pics and thread mark! always a climb I dreamed about! I bouldered with max a few times at the leap. Did the second accent of mainline there with bill price and anjie. I think we ran into each other at the donnells overlook but not sure....
RDB

Trad climber
Iss WA
Feb 24, 2009 - 07:33pm PT
Mark, your and Max exploits and writing really inspired my own free climbing BITD.

You guys were awsome. The 2nd, on nuts only. That is still inspiring! Great pics and even better story, thanks!
Peter Haan

Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
Feb 24, 2009 - 07:40pm PT
thanks tons, Mark. Awesome piece of history here, certainly.
Russ Walling

Social climber
Upper Fupa, North Dakota
Feb 24, 2009 - 07:49pm PT
Way to go Mark! These insights are GREAT!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!11111
Mark Hudon

Trad climber
Hood River, OR
Feb 24, 2009 - 07:49pm PT
Thanks everyone. I'll tell my brother you all liked his photos.
le_bruce

climber
Oakland: what's not to love?
Feb 24, 2009 - 07:54pm PT
Thanks, MH - post of the month, and your bro nailed some great pics. Does he climb, too?
ct

climber
CO
Feb 24, 2009 - 07:55pm PT
Amazing photos, awesome recount of the experience. Big thanks for sharing that little slice of history.
Rhodo-Router

Gym climber
Otto, NC
Feb 24, 2009 - 08:26pm PT
You guys look so YOUNG!
Mark Hudon

Trad climber
Hood River, OR
Feb 24, 2009 - 08:29pm PT
Thanks again,

My brother climbed a bit but not anymore.

In May of 1977 I was 21 and Max was 20.
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Feb 24, 2009 - 08:34pm PT
So maybe, since you just busted out these photos and we love them so much,
Bro gets another sixpack or two, um, like royalties?
WBraun

climber
Feb 24, 2009 - 08:36pm PT
So when I had my tendinitis for a couple of months I belayed Croft on the "Phoenix". He fired it on sight first try.

I did good cleaning his few pieces on jumars ......
Brian

climber
Cali
Feb 24, 2009 - 08:42pm PT
That (Mark's account) is incredible. Absolutely incredible.
stevep

Boulder climber
Salt Lake, UT
Feb 24, 2009 - 08:44pm PT
Great pics and story. One of the better slices of history posted on the Taco.
martygarrison

Trad climber
The Great North these days......
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 24, 2009 - 08:45pm PT
wow, I thought mofet did the the first onsite, didnt know anyone else did it in that timeframe. climbed with the price ledgend, he was so dang good.
Willoughby

Social climber
Truckee, CA
Feb 24, 2009 - 08:47pm PT
What was the drinking age in California in 1977?

Just kidding. Bump for all-around awesomeness.

Jaybro

Social climber
wuz real!
Feb 24, 2009 - 08:54pm PT
Nice stuff, Mark! Way too hard for me to go near, even when I onsighted tales.... Shouldn't that, be Ray's pin job?
Largo

Sport climber
Venice, Ca
Feb 24, 2009 - 09:02pm PT
Great effort leading that bastard on Hexes. There's a pretty uniform sized bit (like one inch - the very worst size for me) just after the traverse (easy with big fingers) that would be grim to pause and wiggle hexes in.

Amazing that Croft and Moffit fired this thing. I had to go back three times, with Ron Fawcett, and we yo-yoed the sh#t out of the thing till we had all but the last bit of crack totally wired, move for move. We worked it, and kept getting the rope higher, till we basically had a top rope strung - shabby style by any definition. I got to where I could float the lower part, to just past the traverse - but that size, where the crack goes vert, was just horendous for both Ron and me.

The ghastly pinned out lower bit (like two or three body lengths), the awkward sling belay at the bottom, and the weird location make the Phoenix a super hard curiosity rather than an all time classic, IMO. Hang Dog Flyer has a few cranker moves, and I could never turn the roof on Owl Roof, but for my money, Phoenix is by far Jardine's hardest route in the Valley.

JL
salad

climber
Escondido
Feb 24, 2009 - 09:08pm PT
wow.
Jaybro

Social climber
wuz real!
Feb 24, 2009 - 09:13pm PT
Is there anyone, (besides Mr Jardine, and his views are always welcome, in any case) who can quantitatively compare the Phoenix, to Elephant's eliminate?
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Feb 24, 2009 - 09:23pm PT
Great photos, Mark - thanks for sharing.
Mighty Hiker

Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
Feb 24, 2009 - 10:41pm PT
Thanks!!

Story hour on SuperTopo is even better than the one at the library.
James

climber
My twin brother's laundry room
Feb 24, 2009 - 10:52pm PT
It's crazy that Beth Rodden onsighted this thing. Savage!

Thanks Mark. Awesome story and an inspiration.
dogtown

climber
Cheyenne,Wyoming
Feb 24, 2009 - 11:13pm PT
Man; that thing is awful!

Thanks for posting up Mark, Great story.
MisterE

Trad climber
One Place or Another
Feb 24, 2009 - 11:33pm PT
Thanks for the blow-by-blow, Mark. Great stuff!

Erik
healyje

Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
Feb 24, 2009 - 11:40pm PT
Burly and olde skool.

And hey, I know it's not granite, but you should come out to Beacon sometime when it opens this year...
hashbro

Trad climber
Mental Physics........
Feb 25, 2009 - 08:13am PT
Boy I must say that these great threads (including Tales of Power, the Crucifix and others) are makin' me want to get in really good shape and onsight those routes before my body turns to jello.

Thanks all and please keep posting those hand-sweating photos...
J. Werlin

climber
Cedaredge
Feb 25, 2009 - 08:26am PT
Bravo! Excellent TR Mark. Many thanks.
Walleye

climber
Inking the deal at Ralph Spoilsport Motors
Feb 25, 2009 - 08:44am PT
Bravissimo!
Roger Breedlove

climber
Cleveland Heights, Ohio
Feb 25, 2009 - 09:02am PT
Nice account and pictures, Mark. Cannot even imagine how hard that is.

Your comment, "It took us four days of work. We would usually give it one burn each. I was doing better on it than Max was so it was me who was placing the gear and moving the rope up. We had a moral point as to how far up we wanted to yo-yo the thing though" is a slice in time.

You guys were amoung the first to follow Ray's routes with a sense of the earlier sensibilities of 'working' a route. Great history to have a specific instance to point to.

Best, Roger

Elcapinyoazz

Social climber
Redlands
Nov 4, 2009 - 08:05pm PT
Rise from the ashes bump.
Mark Hudon

Trad climber
Hood River, OR
Nov 4, 2009 - 08:21pm PT
This last fall, it was so funny to me to be driving past this route thinking, "damn, I did that so, so long ago". It felt like another lifetime.
Mike.

climber
Nov 4, 2009 - 09:15pm PT
Solid gold contribution. Thanks for posting it, MH.
handsome B

Gym climber
SL,UT
Nov 4, 2009 - 09:36pm PT
fantastic account and pictures, a truly delightful slice of history filled with emotion that I can relate to, even though the route kicked my butt

by yo-yo, do you mean moving the rope up, or just moving the gear up?

I didn't find the pin scars very out of place by yosemite standards
couchmaster

climber
pdx
Nov 4, 2009 - 09:58pm PT
Youse guys would be some mean Mo-fos with today's shoes and modern gear selection. Even Fires were a major step up from the EB's you had then and now friction is even further along than Fires. Bad-assed is the understatement. Great stuff! Thanks for sharing it.
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
Nov 4, 2009 - 10:17pm PT
Those photos should be in Yosemite Climber.
Mighty Hiker

climber
Vancouver, B.C. Small wall climber.
Nov 4, 2009 - 10:35pm PT
Mark, did you end up having surgery to fix your shoulder? Just curious - I eventually had to, after repeated dislocations, the first from a bicycle crash.
Pate

Trad climber
?
Nov 4, 2009 - 10:40pm PT
inspirational climbing. thanks for this mark.
msiddens

Trad climber
Mountain View, CA
Nov 5, 2009 - 11:09am PT
Awesome man, much appreciated. Making my palms sweat!!!!
Mark Hudon

Trad climber
Hood River, OR
Nov 5, 2009 - 11:15am PT
In 1980, after dislocating my shoulder while skiing, I had it operated on. I haven't had a problem since although I still do specific weight exercises for it.
squatch

Boulder climber
santa cruz, CA
Feb 22, 2011 - 11:36pm PT
gotta bump this, it cannot stay buried.

too badass!
Aleister Crowley

Trad climber
Feb 22, 2011 - 11:39pm PT
Hudon: Badass.
duncan

climber
London, UK
Feb 23, 2011 - 01:51am PT
I missed this first time around - great story Mark.

I belayed Alan Watts on The Phoenix in June 1984. The deal was he would lend me 40 'biners for a wall attempt in exchange for a day holding his ropes. He'd been on it the previous year and expected to spend many hours working it.

Climbing with Alan was an eye-opener, I'd never come across such professionalism before. At that time, climbers, particularly Brits., liked to see themselves as above that sort of thing: to be cool you had to succeed without really trying. Alan had a topo of the route with every gear placement and jam individually described ("left hand, middle two fingers, thumb down"). It turned out to be a great deal for me: he fired it first go.
Disaster Master

Social climber
Born in So-Cal, left my soul in far Nor-Cal.
Feb 23, 2011 - 02:08am PT
Bad-Ass-tastic!
Mark Hudon

Trad climber
Hood River, OR
Feb 23, 2011 - 08:37am PT
Dang! !t was 32 years ago that we climbed that thing!
slabbo

Trad climber
fort garland, colo
Feb 23, 2011 - 09:05am PT
Hey Mark- i remember the photo in "States of the Art" with your chowed up hands !!!! Still have that one ?

I went down to phoenix one time to take pix with Suzuki, Nitro and Scarpelli, what a team.

Hidetaka took a few tries, Nitro really struggled and Bobjust could not do it. Tells you something of the difficulty I guess.
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Feb 23, 2011 - 09:09am PT
I just revisited this.

Man, EB's, tied slings and swamis, bandana's, painter's pants, popping shoulders, Classic!

Your bro outdid himself with the photos. Great story, too.

I was 21 it '77 too, and just getting the fundamentals of handjams down...
Melissa

Gym climber
berkeley, ca
Feb 23, 2011 - 09:11am PT
I didn't see this before either.

Thanks for the blow-by-blow photo essay, Mark.

Cool story, Duncan.
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
Feb 23, 2011 - 10:33am PT
must... keep... climbing... at... top...

Fat Dad

Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
Feb 23, 2011 - 10:53am PT
When did Bill Price do it?

I remember standing in the Mountain Shop in '79 or '80, reading a report in Mountain mag about how he ran out of gear most of the way up, hung out on some manky jams, and hand and mouth hauled some extra gear on a rap line. I guess from its placement in the mag, I can assume he climbed it one of those years, or just before, but any details on that one?
HighDesertDJ

Trad climber
Swimming in LEB tears.
Feb 23, 2011 - 12:15pm PT
A really amazing story and so lucky to have those pics too.
east side underground

Trad climber
Hilton crk,ca
Feb 23, 2011 - 02:10pm PT
bump for Hudon- bad BITD and still bad today
Rankin

Social climber
Greensboro, North Carolina
Feb 23, 2011 - 03:31pm PT
This one belongs in the Taco Hall of Fame. Damn. What an effort on hexes. I was one and half years old. Whew! Good job Mark.
Hankster

Social climber
Texas/Boulder
Feb 23, 2011 - 08:22pm PT
My favorite thread ever!

caylor
k-man

Gym climber
SCruz
Mar 1, 2011 - 11:38am PT
Can't believe I'd missed this thread, but now sorry I caught it.

There goes my onsight....


But seriously, those are some of the finest "old school" photos ever. Bravo!
Danholio

Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
Mar 1, 2011 - 05:52pm PT
Phoenix with no cams??? Awesome and inspirational. Thanks Mark.
Oxymoron

Big Wall climber
total Disarray
Mar 9, 2011 - 09:13pm PT
Bump for Hudon.
gf

climber
Mar 9, 2011 - 09:17pm PT
glad this one got bumped up -great shots mark
guido

Trad climber
Santa Cruz/New Zealand/South Pacific
Mar 9, 2011 - 09:20pm PT
Hot sh#t-nice slice of the past!
go-B

climber
Sozo
Mar 9, 2011 - 10:25pm PT
Stellar!
Off White

climber
Tenino, WA
Mar 9, 2011 - 11:30pm PT
For those of us of a certain age, that States of the Art article was very memorable. Wasn't it spread over two issues? Nice to get a fleshed out version of part of that story.
Dingus Milktoast

Gym climber
Who'll stop the reign?
Mar 10, 2011 - 05:32am PT
Hudon do you put that sort of work into your coffee, too???

Amazing tale with pictures! Thanks.

DMT
Mark Hudon

Trad climber
Hood River, OR
Mar 10, 2011 - 08:51am PT
DMT, I don't do anything halfway.
Tahoe climber

climber
Davis these days
Mar 10, 2011 - 09:32am PT
great story, thanks for posting!
tc
JEleazarian

Trad climber
Fresno CA
Mar 10, 2011 - 02:30pm PT
Mark,

When I started law school at UCLA in 1976, I seldom got to the Valley. When I went to take the bar exam in July of 1979, I stopped by REI on the way to Long Beach and picked up a copy of Mountain Magazine that had the article about you and Max entitled "States of the Art." Looking at those pictures of you on Hangdog Flyer, Phoenix, etc. left a big impression on me, and showed me just how much climbing had progressed.

Great work then. Great post now.

Thanks greatly!

John
tonym

climber
Oklahoma
Mar 10, 2011 - 06:36pm PT
Ditto that! Best thread I have seen thus far on ST! I have been thinking about it all day! The real deal for sure and how inspiring!

Thanks for posting.

~T Mayse
Kalimon

Trad climber
Ridgway, CO
Mar 10, 2011 - 07:24pm PT
Thanks for the photos Mark! Nice YES T-shirt you're sporting as well. You and Max were on fire during that period . . . I saw a slide show you guys did in the Bay Area and will always remember your humble demeanor.

As for the Beth Rodden reference . . . seems like she uses a tensioned lead rope that allows her claims of "free" ascents. Just saying.
JohnnyG

climber
Mar 10, 2011 - 08:16pm PT
Mark's post is pretty sweet. Awesome really.

How sweet would it be to hear from ol' Jardine. Maybe he has written about it before.

And pardon my lack of history knowledge, but this was the first 5.13 climbed, right? So was Mark the second person to climb 5.13? And perhaps the only one to climb a .13 with just passive pro?
WBraun

climber
Mar 10, 2011 - 08:19pm PT
Jardine hang-dogged 100 days on it before doing it .....
Darwin

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Mar 10, 2011 - 08:25pm PT
As others have said: I can't believe what I miss on Supertopo. Between this, the Tales of Power thread, and almost enough photos of desert cracks and Wide Vedauwoo, why don't we just live here?

I like piecing together the eras of Yosemite climbing history from these posts. Just on a personal level, I dropped out of Yosemite climbing just before this in '72 and this is what I had fantasies about, not necessarily this climb, but a climb like this.

Nice post Mark. I had no idea.
marty(r)

climber
beneath the valley of ultravegans
Mar 10, 2011 - 09:36pm PT
R.J., not hangdogging for the moment (Meyers photo)



I can only think of a few other images of The Phoenix. Patagonia ran a shot a while back, and there's that one of Peter Croft on it in the Heinz Zak book. Any others out there? Please, more stories from the ashes!
Jeremy

Social climber
Albuquerque, NM
Mar 11, 2011 - 07:50am PT
BUMP!
Elcapinyoazz

Social climber
Joshua Tree
Mar 11, 2011 - 07:58am PT
There's full-on video of Suzuki in Masters of Stone I, and a little of Rodden on it in the Meltdown segment of Dosage V.

Blitzo pic of Price from Mtn Proj:



Gaines pic of Suzuki also on the Mtn Proj:
slabbo

Trad climber
fort garland, colo
Mar 14, 2011 - 04:05pm PT
Hey mark- It's not on the same level, but how about some stories regarding the ffa of White Eye at Cathedral in'78 ?
I was a beginner then and was wondering "what's that route ?"

A stout 12 for sure and still rejecting people 33 years later.
scuffy b

climber
dissected alluvial deposits, late Pleistocene
Mar 17, 2011 - 01:41pm PT
Did Bill Price get it on sight?
Fat Dad

Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
Mar 17, 2011 - 02:02pm PT
Re Bill Price, I don't know. I asked about his ascent about a month ago and no new info yet.
martygarrison

Trad climber
Washington DC
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 17, 2011 - 03:00pm PT
I seem to remember Bill did, but not sure. He sure was smooth though
Maysho

climber
Soda Springs, CA
Mar 17, 2011 - 03:02pm PT
Bill did not get it onsight, but his ascent was amazing none the less. I think he went down to attempt it a couple of times. I was with him on one attempt, along with Steve Hong, who was hanging in the Valley cause he wanted to learn how to jam, (he learned quite well!).

On maybe the third time down there, he went up to try the hard traverse again and surprised himself by sending it easily, he hung on the first good jam in the main crack and had the belayer swing in the rappel rope, then he hauled up the rack with one hand and his teeth, then sent the whole thing! Truly heroic, as he hadn't been on the upper crack before, though rapping in and jugging out you do get to see it.

Bill was incredibly talented, and a very humble, friendly guy as well.

Peter
Mark Hudon

Trad climber
Hood River, OR
Mar 17, 2011 - 03:50pm PT
That sounds like something Bill would and could do!
CrackAddict

Trad climber
Joshua Tree
Mar 17, 2011 - 03:58pm PT
Wow - fantastic pictures! Thanks Mark. You don't see many pictures of this route mainly because it is a logistical nightmare just to get to it, let alone do a photo shoot (unless you have a good telephoto lens).

Phoenix is about like doing 2-3 laps on Equinox followed by an overhanging lunatic fringe. Definitely not a "giveme" even at 5.13 IMO.
Mike Bolte

Trad climber
Planet Earth
Mar 17, 2011 - 03:59pm PT
Did Steve get it too? He became a monster crack climber.
Maysho

climber
Soda Springs, CA
Mar 17, 2011 - 05:58pm PT
Steve didn't get very far that day in 1979, neither did I, we were both stumped by the traverse. Steve followed me on Tales of Power that week, and we did the 3rd free ascent of West Face of El Cap the same week as the FFA, and Mark and Max doing the 2nd.

A few years later, Steve got extremely good at cracks as we know...maybe he went back years later for a rematch on the Phoenix, I don't know.

Peter
Darwin

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Jun 14, 2011 - 04:11pm PT
bump, for obvious reasons.

Mark; really your writeup and photos can't be surpassed!
le_bruce

climber
Oakland, CA
Jun 14, 2011 - 04:19pm PT
Kalimon:

As for the Beth Rodden reference . . . seems like she uses a tensioned lead rope that allows her claims of "free" ascents. Just saying.


Trying to understand what this means. What makes you think she (and TC, and the film crew) lied about her Phoenix ascent? Seems unlikely to me, but who knows. Can you back it up?
the kid

Trad climber
fayetteville, wv
Jun 14, 2011 - 04:33pm PT
damn fine photos and true old school send.
one for the ages..
Darwin

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Jun 14, 2011 - 04:50pm PT

Bruce and Kalimon

"a tensioned lead rope" doesn't often help (I know, it can). I think Beth felt it just had to be made more difficult.


;-)

darwin
Brian

climber
California
Jun 14, 2011 - 05:50pm PT
Hey mark- It's not on the same level, but how about some stories regarding the ffa of White Eye at Cathedral in'78 ?

Did Mark put up White Eye? Loved that route when I was back east in grad school. Definitely one of the harder routes for me.

Brian
drewsky

climber
Seattle
Jun 14, 2011 - 06:47pm PT
Great pictures on Mark Hudon's post!
I wish I had more pictures of the actual climbing...

Looking up at The Phoenix from the belay.
Looking up at The Phoenix from the belay.
Credit: drewsky

...but I managed a redpoint of this thing in '08. I forced my partner to go down there two days in a row and hang out with the ants at the belay. I burned a couple attempts out of sheer nervousness and did the thing on my third attempt. That climb along with the Tales of Power/Separate Reality combo stand out in my mind as some of my favorite Yosemite single pitches, maybe because of their unique locations and good exposure.

I don't think the Phoenix is really that much harder than Equinox, but it's kind of an apples and oranges comparison because of the sizes involved: that 60 feet of thin hands on Phoenix gives a nice pump, while I found sharpness to be a major factor on Equinox. Doing Phoenix without the cams would certainly up the ante, but that's why all us kids have Aliens and TCU's these days.

I have to admit that the initial holds, while obviously 'manufactured' didn't faze me all that much. Not that it should be the gold standard of establishing routes, mind you, but I've seen worse. Then again, that initial corner probably would have gone free without them and been a real stemming challenge!

Also, that must be a half-baked attempt at a joke about Beth Rodden and a 'tensioned lead rope' (whatever the hell that means; usually having too much tension on the lead is harder, not the other way around): with the way she climbs, the Phoenix would be a mere trifle for her (and it was: she onsighted it!).
Kalimon

Trad climber
Ridgway, CO
Jun 14, 2011 - 07:09pm PT
le_bruce,

I can't back up sh#t. I've never seen the video. My reference originated from viewing commercial photos of other "free" ascents that clearly display a "tensioned" lead rope through gear placed above the climber.
Lurking Fear

Boulder climber
Bishop, California
Jun 14, 2011 - 07:11pm PT
Heard it was soloed yesterday by Alex.
Acer

Big Wall climber
AZ
Jun 16, 2011 - 01:23am PT
Solo


http://www.alpinist.com/doc/web11s/newswire-internet-gossip?utm_source=feedburner&utm_medium=feed&utm_campaign=Feed%3A+alpinist%2FEFcn+%28Alpinist+Newswires%29
k-man

Gym climber
SCruz
Jun 16, 2011 - 09:08am PT
Just an amazing shot. Climbing with hexes, and check out that harness:




And now Alex ...
Double D

climber
Jun 16, 2011 - 10:49am PT
as he hadn't been on the upper crack before, though rapping in and jugging out you do get to see it.
... Not quite. Bill and I went up there maybe a year before and borrowed some of Jardine's prototype friends and put a top-rope on it. Bill did it in like 6 pitches, me...maybe 20.

The part right off the belay was too wet so we never tr'd that section. Bill's ascent is truly amazing though because hanging from a "good" jam to fetch the rack... man those jams kinda suck and with the leaning nature there's no good rests that I remember.

AH's free-solo: can't even fathom that kind of ability.

k-man

Gym climber
SCruz
Jul 1, 2011 - 07:44pm PT
What the heck??


Some kid
Some kid
Mark Hudon

Trad climber
Hood River, OR
Jul 1, 2011 - 08:07pm PT
I'd never seen that photo.

No, I didn't do the FA of White Eye but I did the FFA of it. All sorts of people (Henry Barber, Jimmy Dunn) were telling me that I'd never be able to do it, that I was too short. Max and I went over there and I did it first try, higher up on the pitch I took a big fall, almost 30 feet. Henry got all freaked out, said "this is getting serious", and left. I went back up the pitch and free climbed the whole thing. I can't remember if Max followed it on not, he probably did, there wasn't much that one of us could do that the other couldn't.
Darwin

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Jul 1, 2011 - 08:37pm PT
This is my favorite thread.

I admit, I was out of climbing by the late 70s when this all happened, but this shows what I missed. I love the two carabiner link to the pro (pin?) under the roof. We did that all the time, I remember Matt Pollock saying when I started climbing again in the 1990s, "we never worried about rope drag", while he suggested that I use a runner or quick draw.

Mark, if you would have a beer, I'll buy you one. If not beer, something else (added in edit: pomegranate juice or coconut water).
GDavis

Social climber
SOL CAL
Jul 1, 2011 - 10:27pm PT
can't read this enough...
Weld_it

Trad climber
Chatsworth
Jul 1, 2011 - 10:29pm PT
FACT: PHONIX AINT THAT RAD SUGARTITS AND GIRLS HAVE DONE IT SO WTF EH AND A2 MAXIMON
GDavis

Social climber
SOL CAL
Jul 1, 2011 - 11:04pm PT
FACT: PHONIX AINT THAT RAD SUGARTITS AND GIRLS HAVE DONE IT SO WTF EH AND A2 MAXIMON


GhoulweJ

Trad climber
El Dorado Hills, CA
Jul 2, 2011 - 03:07pm PT
Quality post.
Dave Sessions

Trad climber
Thousand Oaks, CA
Oct 23, 2011 - 12:41pm PT
damn, now you got me crying.... Mostly from seeing those hexes hanging off the rack! Dems' was the days. Awesome Mark.
Timmc

climber
BC
Oct 23, 2011 - 01:12pm PT
Wasn't there a cool shot of Moffat on the Phoenix in a Boreal add back in the later 80's, with a caption like 'JM flashes the Phoenix'? It was taken from some distance.

I'm not home for another week but if someone could dig it up and scan it I would be grateful.
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
USA Carson city Nev.
Oct 23, 2011 - 01:13pm PT
Four thumbs up on this one..!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
tom Carter

Social climber
Nov 28, 2011 - 11:01pm PT
wow

great shots Mark

thanks

I rapped in once to belay Vern and Ray on it. Ray had the "secret" tools under his shirt - I had no clue!
Stainless

Social climber
SLC, UT
Feb 2, 2012 - 10:37pm PT
Just popped in to spread/bump the love. This story is RAD. One of the coolest forums posts I'm seen.
cultureshock

Trad climber
Mountain View
May 7, 2012 - 10:53am PT
Phoenix BUMP!










All Patitucci Photos

 Luke
scuffy b

climber
heading slowly NNW
May 7, 2012 - 10:59am PT
No fair, that guy's arms are longer than my entire body!
Mark Hudon

Trad climber
Hood River, OR
May 7, 2012 - 11:19am PT
I'm sure I wouldn't have a snowballs chance in hell of getting up it free but it would be fun to get on it simply to plug some cams in it!
Mike Bolte

Trad climber
Planet Earth
May 7, 2012 - 11:23am PT
yup Mark - I've thought the same thing (about me, not you) for a long time. Be pretty fun just to be up there.
Gary

climber
"My god - it's full of stars!"
May 7, 2012 - 12:50pm PT
Mindboggling!
Largo

Sport climber
The Big Wide Open Face
May 7, 2012 - 01:21pm PT
I remember the traverse was impossible to stitch with the old nuts and so I had to crank up into the crack and with my fatty hands buttering out, wiggle a hex into that one incher with my feet pasted on that ramp. I barely got the rope clipped in and pitched off. Ron Fawcett went back up and ran the rope like 20 feet off that hex, unable to stop, and I was thinking if he rips, which looked eminent, he's going the distance. For someone with big hands like me that crack was just plain awful. And painful, too. Free soloing Phoenix is a remarkable thing, so my hat's off to Alex.

JL
Mark Hudon

Trad climber
Hood River, OR
May 7, 2012 - 01:22pm PT
John I'd give you a .13b or c rating on that thing with your meatpaws!
slabbo

Trad climber
fort garland, colo
May 7, 2012 - 03:39pm PT
Classic ! Largo and mark need to get on it NOW

Come on Mark- you still got those little NH hands

and largo can use PAW jams
S.Leeper

Social climber
somewhere that doesnt have anything over 90'
May 7, 2012 - 10:43pm PT
Honnold freesoloing phoenix from 22:45-23:29

toadgas

Trad climber
los angeles
May 7, 2012 - 10:49pm PT
^^^^^

on the Phoenix I don't like how Honnold used his left knee on that mantle.


That's bad form!



LOL

-
toadgas

Trad climber
los angeles
Jun 8, 2012 - 09:28am PT
-


the Phoenix with friggin hexentrics and EBs!


BUMP for Hudon-mania!



....SALUDOS

-
Fluid

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
Jun 8, 2012 - 12:45pm PT
A bit off-topic, but watching the video embedded above, at 25:20 on Sentinel Alex passes the fixed camera placed just above a good handhold. He slaps the handhold almost sarcastically with an odd facial expression, while the commentator makes inane statements about hanging from 4 fingers (while his feet are well-planted). Was this a bit of an FU moment for Alex?
briham89

Big Wall climber
san jose, ca
Apr 30, 2013 - 04:11pm PT
Bump. Mark's story at the beginning of this thread is so cool.
atgoett

Trad climber
oklahoma city, ok
Jun 17, 2013 - 12:12pm PT
bump
rnevius

Trad climber
The Range of Light
Nov 5, 2013 - 09:59am PT
Phoenix BUMP.
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