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426
climber
☬
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Feb 15, 2011 - 08:03am PT
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Good thread, I'm on a detour through the birth simulator when it dries up....
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mooser
Trad climber
seattle
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Feb 15, 2011 - 09:48am PT
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Yer gonna need a whole set of Pneuma-Nuts(TM) on that thing, Greg.
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MH2
climber
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Feb 15, 2011 - 12:57pm PT
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An interesting approach, eeyonkee. I checked the visualization/road thing for you and the tech may not be there quite yet.
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Mike Friedrichs
Sport climber
City of Salt
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Feb 15, 2011 - 01:36pm PT
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Another thing I remember about Lucille is how sharp the crimps are and how hard you have to pull on them to get launched off the ledge. It would be good to have some thick skin on your pads. We had a big bro and a couple of kind of sketchy yates cams. You will have better pro for sure.
What Jay had was vision and determination. That's ultimately what will get you through. Oh - and a good belayer too.
Looks like I'm going to be on injured reserve all summer. Maybe I'll have to attend grugfest and lead the cheers. It is a beautiful place to be. you should definitely go for it.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Feb 15, 2011 - 01:54pm PT
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Mike is, the best belayer in the business.
Kick ass climber, too!
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eeyonkee
Trad climber
Golden, CO
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 15, 2011 - 02:27pm PT
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Thanks for the analysis, MH2.
So, vision and determination, eh? Closest thing I got is fear of failure and that chart that MH2 came up with. Still, it's something. Just re-read Jaybro's account. Quite a bit of beta, really.
BTW, I've seen Mike climb and belay. Most excellent on both counts.
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Tony Bird
climber
Northridge, CA
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Feb 15, 2011 - 02:46pm PT
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the road to lucille is named pamela. if you buy 100 cases of sierra climbing salve, you can get there from here.
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Karla
climber
Colorado
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Feb 15, 2011 - 03:26pm PT
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Hey eeyonkee, we make many pigrimages there over the late spring to early fall. I have your better 1/2's email and will reach out to see if you'd like to connect with us. Many in our group suffer from the OW addiction(Lucille included), so you'd be in good company:)
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eeyonkee
Trad climber
Golden, CO
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 15, 2011 - 03:55pm PT
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Now we're talking! Forget GrugFest. How about just LucilleFest - 2011? In honor of this legendary climb. Date currently uncertain. All are welcome.
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Captain...or Skully
climber
The Seas of Stone.
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Feb 15, 2011 - 04:04pm PT
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That sounds like an Event!
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Feb 15, 2011 - 09:11pm PT
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I'm in!
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Prod
Trad climber
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Feb 15, 2011 - 09:28pm PT
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I'm in. I'll give her a go. I have some big cams but no big bros, 2#6's, 1 #5, 1 old #4.
Prod.
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SteveW
Trad climber
The state of confusion
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Feb 15, 2011 - 10:09pm PT
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I wanna BE THERE!!!!
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Feb 15, 2011 - 10:25pm PT
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Jay could you ever see anyone soloing it? It is 1900 feet shorter than Half Dome and about the same grade.
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Prod
Trad climber
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Feb 15, 2011 - 10:31pm PT
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Hell yeah Caylor,
We'll load the wives, dogs, gear, food, grill, solar shower, bikes, etc in the sprinter and still have tons of room.
Remember the last time we were in Vedauwoo together? I puked on route, you and Tarbuster were on top and I was Hurling. You were yelling
"HURL ON DECK.... HURL ON DECK" Laughing your ass off.
Remember the route?
Prod.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Feb 15, 2011 - 10:39pm PT
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Hurley Fowler?
Unlike half dome you might not die instantly if you deck off Lucille.
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Prod
Trad climber
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Feb 15, 2011 - 11:37pm PT
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1st, I think it was Flying Butress?
2nd, that post was no where near over the line.
Prod.
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Crimpergirl
Sport climber
Boulder, Colorado!
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Feb 16, 2011 - 03:28pm PT
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Any proposed dates on Grugfest (aka Lucillefest). Still haven't made it to Veed. The off widths skeer me!
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Prod
Trad climber
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Feb 16, 2011 - 03:29pm PT
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Yo Eyonkee,
Lets get a timeline on this bad boy Lucillefest! I hear all the cool guys will be there.
Prod.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Feb 16, 2011 - 03:31pm PT
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I tend to favor first two weeks in August. July is good too.
it's nice to be in vedawuoo when it's too hot everywhere else, (except the high country.)
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