Discussion Topic |
|
This thread has been locked |
| Messages 1 - 442 of total 442 in this topic |
eeyonkee
Trad climber
Golden, CO
|
|
|
Topic Author's Original Post - Feb 14, 2011 - 08:02pm PT
|
The one in Vedauwoo...the one that Jaybro did the FA of. Now,(Jaybro) say you were me, mostly over the hill but, um, willing, and you wanted to get ready for a flash ascent of Lucille. Here's my list of things to do. Am I missing anything?
 Start doing something to get in shape, like situps or pushups or something.
Stop drinking so damn much beer.
Visualization, visualization, visualization!
Ask yourself, what would Bob Scarpelli do?
Do the three offwidths in the Boulder area for practice
|
|
scuffy b
climber
Three feet higher
|
|
|
Feb 14, 2011 - 08:03pm PT
|
You already started thinking about the first two steps, right?
|
|
eeyonkee
Trad climber
Golden, CO
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 14, 2011 - 08:07pm PT
|
Current plan? Start with 3 and 4, and then ease into the other stuff.
|
|
MisterE
Social climber
MEEP MEEP
|
|
|
Feb 14, 2011 - 08:09pm PT
|
Inversion boots are a good way to train, according to some 5.12 OW climber here on the board...
A great goal, Grug!
|
|
scuffy b
climber
Three feet higher
|
|
|
Feb 14, 2011 - 08:13pm PT
|
Ten or fifteen laps of Greg's Crack within an hour might help.
Up and down the first steep part of Mother Superior from the lie-down
start...
|
|
Brokedownclimber
Trad climber
Douglas, WY
|
|
|
Feb 14, 2011 - 08:18pm PT
|
Need a belayer? Need a photographer? I'm available.
|
|
eeyonkee
Trad climber
Golden, CO
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 14, 2011 - 08:20pm PT
|
Scuffy, you make me see that I wasn't explicit enough. I mean things that I can do that are relatively EASY! Like sleeping an extra two hours a day or eating some ginkgobilobanuts.
|
|
Peter Haan
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
|
|
|
Feb 14, 2011 - 08:27pm PT
|
Don't we need photos, Pilgrims, to go up any higher here?
|
|
donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
|
|
|
Feb 14, 2011 - 08:29pm PT
|
Most roads lead away from Lucille.
|
|
steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
|
|
|
Feb 14, 2011 - 08:29pm PT
|
I didn't even know ginkobilobas had nuts!
|
|
scuffy b
climber
Three feet higher
|
|
|
Feb 14, 2011 - 08:31pm PT
|
I can't remember why you want to eat those ginkobiloba nuts?
|
|
Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
|
|
|
Feb 14, 2011 - 08:32pm PT
|
If inverted, Bob Scarpelli would fall on his head if he were in your shoes, Greg. He's like a foot shorter than you. He wears the same sportiva sizes I do.
Someone else here asked me about this recently, and what I told him will work for you. Since you guys are over six feet, Lucille is unlikely to be an inversion problem for you. I didn't invert the three times I've done it. General fitness, especially core fitness, is key. The ability to not puke during bursts of anaerobic horizontal (Bruegel) chickenwinging in between aerobic tunneling at almost max V02 at 8,000' worked for me.
I'd do as many of the harder OW's at vedauwoo first; Squat (for the pivot) Muscle and fitness, New maps of hell, short but wide, right tube etc. As many laps on Jay's solo (Bob's name) as you can.
When i finally got it, though I was living in Tempe at essentially sea level, I'd been backpacking in the Bighorns for a week followed by three weeks in Vedauwoo, never getting lower than Laramie, 7200.' I was jogging and mountain biking some, then, but it was before I got seriously into running.
I drank beer then but was pretty skinny.
Now I'm going to strap on my inversion cuffs and weight vest, to train for other offwidth projects...
"mostly over the hill but, um, willing," - in some ways I AM you, Grug!
|
|
scuffy b
climber
Three feet higher
|
|
|
Feb 14, 2011 - 08:33pm PT
|
Also, I think, Grug, for Lucille you don't want to ask what Scarpelli
would do...he'd climb something else instead
|
|
eeyonkee
Trad climber
Golden, CO
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 14, 2011 - 08:35pm PT
|
Hey. I'M the one asking for advice here, aren't I? What the frick do I know about ginko products? IF I KNEW, I WOULDN'T be asking now WOULD I? Something that you can ingest that will help out your offwidth climbing. That's what we're talking about here.
|
|
Prod
Trad climber
|
|
|
Feb 14, 2011 - 08:37pm PT
|
Aw man, that is right up your alley! I hope I can make it that weekend.
Prod.
|
|
scuffy b
climber
Three feet higher
|
|
|
Feb 14, 2011 - 08:37pm PT
|
I see, it's an ingestion problem. I thought...
|
|
Brokedownclimber
Trad climber
Douglas, WY
|
|
|
Feb 14, 2011 - 08:37pm PT
|
We prolly need another Boulder HH to assist you in procrastination?
|
|
eeyonkee
Trad climber
Golden, CO
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 14, 2011 - 08:44pm PT
|
Hmmmm. So no video game or something I can play, huh? I had a feeling this might the case - you know, that it would be hard. Oh well, thanks for the advice, Jaybro. I'm already seeing myself wake up tomorrow morning and immediately doing pushups or eating oatmeal or something. I'll keep you posted.
|
|
Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
|
|
|
Feb 14, 2011 - 08:51pm PT
|
You can do it Grug! and so can that other tall guy who asked me about it recently. he should chime in or risk 'outing' hee hee.
Keep your eyes on the prize!
|
|
scuffy b
climber
Three feet higher
|
|
|
Feb 14, 2011 - 08:53pm PT
|
No video games for you.
"Yeah, woulda fired that little roof thing no problem,
except for my gamy thumb I got saving the Free World on my Gameboy..."
|
|
bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
|
|
|
Feb 14, 2011 - 08:55pm PT
|
Useless thread w/o pics....
|
|
eeyonkee
Trad climber
Golden, CO
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 14, 2011 - 08:56pm PT
|
It'd be great if somehow I could work in my new-found love of watching zombie movies with getting in shape for this endeavor.
|
|
murcy
climber
sanfrancisco
|
|
|
Feb 14, 2011 - 08:57pm PT
|
Looks like there might be an easier way up. No offense, Jay.
|
|
Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
|
|
|
Feb 14, 2011 - 09:02pm PT
|
"I've got a gamey leg" Peter Sellers, Dr Strangelove
Up to the minute training self portrais;
The vest,
The inverted view;
of toe fungus!
|
|
nutjob
Gym climber
Berkeley, CA
|
|
|
Feb 14, 2011 - 09:08pm PT
|
Grug, if you get a really old (read: "heavy") fold-out couch, and then try to tunnel into the mattress part and out the bottom back end while watching a zombie movie, it might work.
Brings a whole new meaning to Off The Couch.
|
|
SteveW
Trad climber
The state of confusion
|
|
|
Feb 14, 2011 - 09:10pm PT
|
Grug
Just head up I-25 north 'till you get to Cheyenne.
Turn west on I-80 and drive a bit until you see the
sign. You're there.
hee hee hee. . . .
|
|
Phantom X
Trad climber
Honeycomb Hideout
|
|
|
Feb 14, 2011 - 09:29pm PT
|
Grug this may come as a shock to you but I did a little snooping around and Jaybro is NOT Dr. Joyce Brothers!!! Lucille is a good nick name for a gruff harry man. Good luck, hope I have helped.
|
|
Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
|
|
|
Feb 14, 2011 - 09:34pm PT
|
Sez you. Ever see a picture of us together?
|
|
Phantom X
Trad climber
Honeycomb Hideout
|
|
|
Feb 14, 2011 - 09:41pm PT
|
Now I'm embarressed. Say Doctor J I've been meaning to say way to go on putting up Lucille.
|
|
Phantom X
Trad climber
Honeycomb Hideout
|
|
|
Feb 14, 2011 - 09:45pm PT
|
Kenny Rodgers maybe could pass for a Lucille.
|
|
Crimpergirl
Sport climber
Boulder, Colorado!
|
|
|
Feb 14, 2011 - 09:50pm PT
|
When is the planned attack? It'd be fun to make an event of it. The Grugfest has a nice ring to it!
|
|
Brian
climber
California
|
|
|
Feb 14, 2011 - 09:52pm PT
|
Donini said
Most roads lead away from Lucille.
Classic!
|
|
em kn0t
Trad climber
isle of wyde
|
|
|
Feb 14, 2011 - 10:00pm PT
|
good grief jaybro, you look WAY honed in that vest.
though you could use a better art director for your next photo shoot...
Jaybro = Invertatus inspirationatus lucillius
|
|
Fritz
Trad climber
Choss Creek, ID
|
|
|
Feb 14, 2011 - 10:31pm PT
|
eeyonkee: After you deal with Lucille, wander west to City of Rocks.
Donini rumour is: "Old-fart/Baby-back rib fest there, in early June."
You can heal, and revisit your FA's.
Seriously!
Talk to Donini for dates.
Fritz!
|
|
Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
|
|
|
Feb 15, 2011 - 12:08am PT
|
I just wanna go to VEED!
what do we need to prep to think about going to Veed?
I mean look at the color on that rock!!!
|
|
Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
|
|
|
Feb 15, 2011 - 01:23am PT
|
From the hoodoo stones to the iridescent yellow/green lichen on pink granite. It is a truly surreal place,
No butts about it,
Vedauwoo Boogaloo 2011,
The Grugfest!
|
|
em kn0t
Trad climber
isle of wyde
|
|
|
Feb 15, 2011 - 01:45am PT
|
what do we need to prep to think about going to Veed? Munginator: build up those butt callouses, stock up on vitamin I and watch for cheap flights to Denver.
Grugfest 2011 OhhhYESSSSSSSSSSS!!
|
|
Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
|
|
|
Feb 15, 2011 - 01:47am PT
|
now we're scheming!
July or Aug?
|
|
eeyonkee
Trad climber
Golden, CO
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 15, 2011 - 07:55am PT
|
Although Grugfest IS a cool name, after waking up, I'm thinking I should have titled this thread the Road to Zanzibar, since I'm probably more likely to get to Zanzibar than to get my ass up Lucille. Still, I'm gonna give it a try this year. Hankster, I'll give you a yell. Getting someone to try it with you is half the battle since I don't believe in employing a fellow climber merely as a belayer.
Now I ask myself, what's the worst thing that could happen? Right away this one comes to mind... not being able to climb the .10b sandbag first pitch, Best of the Blues. Oh well, my oatmeal's ready now.
|
|
426
climber
☬
|
|
|
Feb 15, 2011 - 08:03am PT
|
Good thread, I'm on a detour through the birth simulator when it dries up....
|
|
mooser
Trad climber
seattle
|
|
|
Feb 15, 2011 - 09:48am PT
|
Yer gonna need a whole set of Pneuma-Nuts(TM) on that thing, Greg.
|
|
MH2
climber
|
|
|
Feb 15, 2011 - 12:57pm PT
|
An interesting approach, eeyonkee. I checked the visualization/road thing for you and the tech may not be there quite yet.
|
|
Mike Friedrichs
Sport climber
City of Salt
|
|
|
Feb 15, 2011 - 01:36pm PT
|
Another thing I remember about Lucille is how sharp the crimps are and how hard you have to pull on them to get launched off the ledge. It would be good to have some thick skin on your pads. We had a big bro and a couple of kind of sketchy yates cams. You will have better pro for sure.
What Jay had was vision and determination. That's ultimately what will get you through. Oh - and a good belayer too.
Looks like I'm going to be on injured reserve all summer. Maybe I'll have to attend grugfest and lead the cheers. It is a beautiful place to be. you should definitely go for it.
|
|
Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
|
|
|
Feb 15, 2011 - 01:54pm PT
|
Mike is, the best belayer in the business.
Kick ass climber, too!
|
|
eeyonkee
Trad climber
Golden, CO
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 15, 2011 - 02:27pm PT
|
Thanks for the analysis, MH2.
So, vision and determination, eh? Closest thing I got is fear of failure and that chart that MH2 came up with. Still, it's something. Just re-read Jaybro's account. Quite a bit of beta, really.
BTW, I've seen Mike climb and belay. Most excellent on both counts.
|
|
Tony Bird
climber
Northridge, CA
|
|
|
Feb 15, 2011 - 02:46pm PT
|
the road to lucille is named pamela. if you buy 100 cases of sierra climbing salve, you can get there from here.
|
|
Karla
climber
Colorado
|
|
|
Feb 15, 2011 - 03:26pm PT
|
Hey eeyonkee, we make many pigrimages there over the late spring to early fall. I have your better 1/2's email and will reach out to see if you'd like to connect with us. Many in our group suffer from the OW addiction(Lucille included), so you'd be in good company:)
|
|
eeyonkee
Trad climber
Golden, CO
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 15, 2011 - 03:55pm PT
|
Now we're talking! Forget GrugFest. How about just LucilleFest - 2011? In honor of this legendary climb. Date currently uncertain. All are welcome.
|
|
Captain...or Skully
climber
The Seas of Stone.
|
|
|
Feb 15, 2011 - 04:04pm PT
|
That sounds like an Event!
|
|
Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
|
|
|
Feb 15, 2011 - 09:11pm PT
|
I'm in!
|
|
Prod
Trad climber
|
|
|
Feb 15, 2011 - 09:28pm PT
|
I'm in. I'll give her a go. I have some big cams but no big bros, 2#6's, 1 #5, 1 old #4.
Prod.
|
|
SteveW
Trad climber
The state of confusion
|
|
|
Feb 15, 2011 - 10:09pm PT
|
I wanna BE THERE!!!!
|
|
mike m
Trad climber
black hills
|
|
|
Feb 15, 2011 - 10:25pm PT
|
Jay could you ever see anyone soloing it? It is 1900 feet shorter than Half Dome and about the same grade.
|
|
Prod
Trad climber
|
|
|
Feb 15, 2011 - 10:31pm PT
|
Hell yeah Caylor,
We'll load the wives, dogs, gear, food, grill, solar shower, bikes, etc in the sprinter and still have tons of room.
Remember the last time we were in Vedauwoo together? I puked on route, you and Tarbuster were on top and I was Hurling. You were yelling
"HURL ON DECK.... HURL ON DECK" Laughing your ass off.
Remember the route?
Prod.
|
|
Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
|
|
|
Feb 15, 2011 - 10:39pm PT
|
Hurley Fowler?
Unlike half dome you might not die instantly if you deck off Lucille.
|
|
Prod
Trad climber
|
|
|
Feb 15, 2011 - 11:37pm PT
|
1st, I think it was Flying Butress?
2nd, that post was no where near over the line.
Prod.
|
|
Crimpergirl
Sport climber
Boulder, Colorado!
|
|
|
Feb 16, 2011 - 03:28pm PT
|
Any proposed dates on Grugfest (aka Lucillefest). Still haven't made it to Veed. The off widths skeer me!
|
|
Prod
Trad climber
|
|
|
Feb 16, 2011 - 03:29pm PT
|
Yo Eyonkee,
Lets get a timeline on this bad boy Lucillefest! I hear all the cool guys will be there.
Prod.
|
|
Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
|
|
|
Feb 16, 2011 - 03:31pm PT
|
I tend to favor first two weeks in August. July is good too.
it's nice to be in vedawuoo when it's too hot everywhere else, (except the high country.)
|
|
Brokedownclimber
Trad climber
Douglas, WY
|
|
|
Feb 16, 2011 - 04:07pm PT
|
Crimpie-
There's a lot more than OWs there! Trust me on that! Then there's some skeery face climbing! Water Streak II, at 5.9+ and add the Kopischka finish at 10a. Not that bad. There's always "5.11 Crack" which has a lot of face/friction at 5.9+. From the anchor, can toprope Gunga Din at 11a.
Fun!!
Rodger
|
|
eeyonkee
Trad climber
Golden, CO
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 16, 2011 - 04:14pm PT
|
I'm agreeing with Jaybro on the approximate time line. (This will give me time to do like a million jumping jacks between now and then).
Yeah, that Flying Butress is pretty stiff for 5.10b, isn't it Prod? Frankly, I'd have to call that one of the hardest 5.10b routes that I've ever been on.
|
|
Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
|
|
|
Feb 16, 2011 - 04:47pm PT
|
You mean because it overhangs more than it rises? That it takes virtually every technique from face, lieback, thin flaring jams, to squeeze?
No, that can't be it....
A story,
Once upon a time Flying buttress, upper slot left, and grand traverse were all rated 5.10+ to 'I and me droogs,' (Scarpelli, Kim Weaver, Bill Roberts (RIP)), impossible. Then we went to the valley one spring, after doing pullups all winter long (and it was a long winter) on what would come to be known as "the .10c offwidth tour". When we got back we were climbing well and found we could do all those climbs. So, not wanting to be full of ourselves, or guilty of grade inflation, we decided they must all be .10b. That's where those ratings came from. At the time, Horn's Mother and Boardwalk were rated .10+, left tube .10a, cupcake 5.9+. I think it was that same summer that Big Pink/Short but Wide, was done and rated .11b.
|
|
ground_up
Trad climber
mt. hood /baja
|
|
|
Feb 16, 2011 - 05:42pm PT
|
beer is the only thing that ever helped my ow climbing
|
|
gonzo chemist
climber
Crane Jackson's Fountain St. Theater
|
|
|
Feb 16, 2011 - 07:02pm PT
|
Makes me feel better that eeyonkee says that Flying Buttress is the hardest 10b he's been on. When I did that about 2-3 years ago, I couldn't believe how burly it felt. Even with two shirts on, I was bleeding from my right shoulderblade from trying to kind of chimney/press up into the roof. That was my first day and first route at Vedauwoo. I haven't made much of an effort to go back there.
|
|
Prod
Trad climber
|
|
|
Feb 16, 2011 - 07:02pm PT
|
Lower Progressive kicked my ass last time I was there. I'd call that a damn hard 5.9.
Prod.
|
|
Mike Friedrichs
Sport climber
City of Salt
|
|
|
Feb 16, 2011 - 07:26pm PT
|
There is a pitch high on hotline or one of those routes across from the Cookie that is the exact mirror image of the Flying Buttress at Vedauwoo. I swear. I think it is rated .10d.
|
|
Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
|
|
|
Feb 16, 2011 - 07:41pm PT
|
Yeah near the end of hotline .10d. Wheels hated it!
|
|
eeyonkee
Trad climber
Golden, CO
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 17, 2011 - 08:51pm PT
|
Ok, so I probably shouldn't bump this...but... A couple of things I gotta get off of my chest (located somewhere underneath a grey tangled mass of fibrous-like stuff). Brokedown, didn't mean do not acknowledge your offer to belay me - somehow I missed that post, and I thank you for the offer. PhantomX?...um, good posts - you know, all that Joyce Brothers stuff. Hankster - that video is some funny sh#t! Jaybro and Mike? - Thanks for the encouragement and playing along.
This is about two thirds tongue in cheek and one third a desperate, last-ditch dream of an old climber just pathetic enough to believe in dreams of grandeur.
|
|
drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
|
|
|
Feb 17, 2011 - 09:04pm PT
|
Listen to the Grateful Dead.
Lots and lots of Grateful Dead.
And definitely go shirtless- that silver sweater should act like velcro on the crystals.
|
|
Phantom X
Trad climber
Honeycomb Hideout
|
|
|
Feb 17, 2011 - 09:29pm PT
|
Grug, the wife says your a chump and will never make it.
|
|
Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
|
|
|
Feb 17, 2011 - 09:54pm PT
|
That mat will hook right into the lichens up there!
Though drljefe has something, I wore a Skeletal reality shirt under a rugby on the first ascent...
|
|
Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
|
|
|
Feb 17, 2011 - 11:31pm PT
|
Is that the cover of Climbing #239?
|
|
Mike Friedrichs
Sport climber
City of Salt
|
|
|
Feb 17, 2011 - 11:41pm PT
|
With all this positive energy -- I know you can do it!
|
|
eeyonkee
Trad climber
Golden, CO
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 18, 2011 - 12:04am PT
|
Back to business. Realistically, this is all I've going for me up til now.
1. Fear of failure - by far my strongest position, and possibly my "ace in the hole".
2. That diagram or whatever that MH2 came up with a few posts back. I don't understand it, but it lends a certain "scientific, I-know-what-I'm-talking-about sensibility" to my quest.
3. Jaybro's pulling for me. Never underestimate the "soft" stuff.
4. Planning on working out like crazy (remains to be grounded).
5. Giving up Pralines and Cream ice cream.
6. Only drink beer in the company of others.
7. Floss.
|
|
Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
|
|
|
Feb 18, 2011 - 12:22am PT
|
You're so 'there'!
|
|
426
climber
☬
|
|
|
Feb 18, 2011 - 08:19am PT
|
gear?
|
|
Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
|
|
|
Feb 18, 2011 - 12:29pm PT
|
Friday morning, inspiration for Grug, Bump!
|
|
MH2
climber
|
|
|
Feb 18, 2011 - 06:06pm PT
|
"That diagram or whatever"
Copyright lawyers may gnaw me bloodier than an OW but I should mention that the diagram comes from the Visual Thesaurus. Seemed like a way to find a path through a thicket of words although the concepts do not connect. Yet. Expecting great things from you, eeyonkee. I think you can do it but if you pay me good money I will say you can't, for the motivational effect.
|
|
Brokedownclimber
Trad climber
Douglas, WY
|
|
|
Feb 18, 2011 - 06:45pm PT
|
Grug,
My offer is still good; all I require is BEER.
|
|
Prod
Trad climber
|
|
|
Feb 18, 2011 - 08:00pm PT
|
I've had beers with Brokendown. That might cost you a bit.
Tuesday night training session at the spot?
Prod.
|
|
Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
|
|
|
Feb 21, 2011 - 02:45pm PT
|
Hey Grug,
remember, the journey of a thousand shuffles starts with the first heel toe
|
|
hoipolloi
climber
A friends backyard with the neighbors wifi
|
|
|
Feb 21, 2011 - 02:56pm PT
|
who has video of it getting done?
I want to to see sports action.
|
|
Gal
Trad climber
a semi lucid consciousness
|
|
|
Feb 21, 2011 - 03:18pm PT
|
I'm gonna be in Vedauwoo around this time-I hope there is a "grugfest"... It'd be cool to meet some of you.
Eeyonkee, I like how you re-prioritized your list, and I particularly like the fact that number 6 is now in its current position, rather than 2!!! You really have a lot going for you here-I see success in your future! :)
|
|
Elcapinyoazz
Social climber
Joshua Tree
|
|
|
Feb 21, 2011 - 05:15pm PT
|
I'm a start training tomorrow...9000 inverted situps, and a steady diet of hate-metal, punk, and polka (suffering through the polka will make 5.hard wide cracks seem like a Tahitian vacation).
|
|
WBraun
climber
|
|
|
Feb 21, 2011 - 05:22pm PT
|
No ^^^
One should work on quieting the mind.
Work on breath control.
Slowing down those two will save energy for the strenuous off-width discipline.
Most people try to muscle it (the mind and muscles).
It takes coordination with your whole being not just muscles.
Good breath control is superior .....
|
|
Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
|
|
|
Feb 21, 2011 - 08:28pm PT
|
I meditated in the cave for a good hour before I did it the first time.
|
|
eeyonkee
Trad climber
Golden, CO
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 22, 2011 - 09:52am PT
|
That picture on the cover of Climbing really is an inspiring one, Jaybro(the closeup shuffle picture a little less so). I've continued to try to "optimize" my training. Forget all things related to inversion, Elcapinyoaz, cause I'm not going that way (of course, you can train how the hell you want). As far as moving the beer drinking thing to number 6. it might as well be 86 for all I've been adhering to it. I think I need something eletrical to keep me in line on this one.
I like Werner's advice on this. In fact, working in a little time to hang out with some Shaolin monks for a while probably couldn't hurt my chances.
|
|
goatboy smellz
climber
Nederland
|
|
|
Feb 22, 2011 - 10:08am PT
|
sounds like you need a little Buddha Bar.
|
|
Elcapinyoazz
Social climber
Joshua Tree
|
|
|
Feb 22, 2011 - 11:30am PT
|
Ask Su what to do...he onsighted the rig.
|
|
Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
|
|
|
Feb 22, 2011 - 12:45pm PT
|
Su who?
Pamela and (sorta) Craig onsighted it as well.
|
|
Elcapinyoazz
Social climber
Joshua Tree
|
|
|
Feb 22, 2011 - 01:15pm PT
|
Steve Su.
Photo by Bart Paull.
|
|
eeyonkee
Trad climber
Golden, CO
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 22, 2011 - 01:41pm PT
|
Nice pic!
|
|
Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
|
|
|
Feb 22, 2011 - 02:29pm PT
|
Evokes memories and feelings.
|
|
SteveW
Trad climber
The state of confusion
|
|
|
Feb 27, 2011 - 03:52pm PT
|
Bump for Grug!!!
|
|
Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
|
|
|
Feb 27, 2011 - 11:44pm PT
|
I've been avoiding looking at this thread... still going to be a while though I probably survived today's PGSF trip... and even got in some OW rigs there...
hand, fist, ok...
wider, just will happen on its own sweet time...
but if there is a date for the Grugfest, write it down here! I'm game on a trip to Wy even if I have to take the position of an Eldo Prancer (and that's not gonna be pretty).
|
|
goatboy smellz
climber
Nederland
|
|
|
Feb 28, 2011 - 11:21am PT
|
I think you will fit right in Ed, a true natural talent.
Jaybro photo
|
|
eeyonkee
Trad climber
Golden, CO
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 28, 2011 - 06:03pm PT
|
Mighty impressive, Hankster. Me, I'm growing a mustache and haven't any Cap'n Crunch or Count Chocula for breakfast since I began my "harden the f#ck up training". Oh, yes...this will be fun.
|
|
dickcilley
Social climber
Wisteria Ln.
|
|
|
Feb 28, 2011 - 07:11pm PT
|
I'll be there....But then again no. It rains every time you guys plan one of these things.
|
|
SteveW
Trad climber
The state of confusion
|
|
|
Feb 28, 2011 - 07:15pm PT
|
Dick
We'll make sure it doesn't rain.
Be there!!!!
|
|
Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
|
|
|
Feb 28, 2011 - 07:34pm PT
|
Try again Dick, it rained once! They only get 20 inches of rain there a year.
|
|
Brokedownclimber
Trad climber
Douglas, WY
|
|
|
Feb 28, 2011 - 08:02pm PT
|
Grug-
My Black Diamond belay device is at your disposal--I'll bring my OWN beer. Prod-You can help drink it!
|
|
Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
|
|
|
Feb 28, 2011 - 08:04pm PT
|
It'll stay cold in that belay cave!
|
|
goatboy smellz
climber
Nederland
|
|
|
Feb 28, 2011 - 08:38pm PT
|
So when do you guys think you can make it out this year?
Same as before, first two weeks in August...?
|
|
Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
|
|
|
Feb 28, 2011 - 08:53pm PT
|
That's what I was thinking, I may have a school to go to on around the 24th....
|
|
Melissa
Gym climber
berkeley, ca
|
|
Would someone please 'spain to me the story behind the picture of Ed and the jazzersize girls?
|
|
Phantom X
Trad climber
Honeycomb Hideout
|
|
Grug, because of this thread this website is completely falling apart, it reads like kakadoodoo on the Netscape! There are no new updates nor any new old updates or any new newness, no reader rants or other good stuff! What's going on???
|
|
Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
|
|
i heard that he's doing deep knee bends in the closet late at night so no one will know.
|
|
eeyonkee
Trad climber
Golden, CO
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 9, 2011 - 10:51am PT
|
PhantomX: I guess I just don't have much to say. I'm exersizing at least an hour a day. Jaybro's closer than he might think. I do a lot of squats as part of an exercize program at work. I'm down to 180 with maybe 8 pounds to go. I go to the climbing gym two or three times a week (a first for me). I still drink too much beer. Going desert climbing this weekend.
|
|
Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
|
|
Go Grug go!
Gonna be in the desert at all in April?
|
|
eeyonkee
Trad climber
Golden, CO
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 9, 2011 - 11:44am PT
|
Thanks J. I'll almost certainly do a desert trip in April. Let me know when you're going.
|
|
Phantom X
Trad climber
Honeycomb Hideout
|
|
I probably shouldn't get away with "Netscape".
|
|
eeyonkee
Trad climber
Golden, CO
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 14, 2011 - 07:08pm PT
|
Ever wonder why the Australians do so well in the Olympics with such a small population? I mean, come on, if you take the 2010 population divided by the 2010 (summer) Olympic medal count, Australians do over twice as well as any other country (summary below)
Number of citizens required to win an olympic medal(in 100s of thousands)
Australia 491
Great Britain 1,313
Russia 1,994
Germany 1,995
United States 2,827
China 13,410
Now, while holding this thought, did you ever wonder whether anyone but Austrlians ever eat Vegamite sandwiches?
Now, while holding both of these thoughts at the same time (and this was my big 'eureka' moment), ever wonder if there could be a connection between the two?
Enough said...
|
|
Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
|
|
|
Mar 14, 2011 - 07:44pm PT
|
Being able to contemplate two conflicting thoughts simultaneously is a sign of an advanced mind.
Buddhist saying
|
|
Phantom X
Trad climber
Honeycomb Hideout
|
|
|
Mar 15, 2011 - 01:08am PT
|
All of the Australian medals are for eating vile foods.
|
|
Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
|
|
|
Mar 15, 2011 - 01:28am PT
|
Medal winners by country at last year's winter Olympics (the last few days of medals not included):
1. Norway 20 (= one medal/243,000 citizens)
2. Canada 17 (= one medal/2,001,000 citizens)
3. Germany 26 (= one medal/3,145,000 citizens)
4. Russia 15 (= one medal/9,462,000 citizens)
5. USA 32 (= one medal/9,649,000 citizens)
I'm fairly sure that they don't have vegemite in Norway, so perhaps it's the pickled herring.
And the top 20 cumulative medal-winning countries at the winter Olympics, prior to 2010:
# 1 Norway: 263
# 2 United States: 193
# 3 Austria: 162
# 4 Finland: 142
# 5 Germany: 125
# 6 Sweden: 108
# 7 Switzerland: 103
# 8 Canada: 96
# 9 Italy: 89
# 10 France: 72
# 11 Netherlands: 69
# 12 Russia: 58
# 13 Japan: 31
# 14 United Kingdom: 26
# 15 China: 22
# 16 Korea, South: 20
# 17 Liechtenstein: 9
= 18 Poland: 6
= 18 Hungary: 6
= 20 Czech Republic: 5
|
|
Phantom X
Trad climber
Honeycomb Hideout
|
|
|
Mar 15, 2011 - 01:35am PT
|
Many of the Canadian medals are for lying!
|
|
goatboy smellz
climber
Nederland
|
|
|
Mar 15, 2011 - 10:35am PT
|
Wow MH, you would make a great politician with that firm grasp of statistics & logic you're flashing, maybe check your numbers again and include the summer games. yahknow summertime,eh?
|
|
Prod
Trad climber
|
|
|
Mar 20, 2011 - 11:01am PT
|
Pickled Hering and Vegimite will get you there for sure.
Here is a list of local OW's that Goat turned me on to.
Admission Crack - Upper Infirmary Slabs, South Saint Vrain Canyon
Too Dumb to Sleep In - North Table Mountain, Golden
Bailey's Overhang - Castle Rock, Boulder Canyon
Upstairs - Upper Peanuts, Eldorado Canyon
Electric Fountain Crack - Achean Pronouncement, Flatirons
Twistoflex - Cadillac Crag, Eldorado Canyon
Ruper - Redgarden Wall, Eldorado Canyon
Osiris - The Book, Lumpy Ridge
Tombstone - Tombstone, Lumpy Ridge
Huston Crack - Cob Rock, Boulder Canyon
Free the Ostriches - Long Walk Rock, Boulder Canyon
Wide Pride - North Table Mountain, Golden
The Bowels - The Quarry Wall, Golden
Imperfect Offwidth - Pebble Beach, The Flatirons
Off Width Her Head! - Sunset Wall, Flatirons
Get Smart - Upper Security Risk, Boulder Canyon
Skunk Crack - Castle Rock, Boulder Canyon
Wolf's Tooth - Twin Owls, Lumpy Ridge
Funeral March - West Ridge, Eldorado Canyon
Marry Me Becky - The Quarry Wall, Golden
Grand Giraffe - Redgarden Wall, Eldorado Canyon
Bookmark OW - The Bookmark, Lumpy Ridge
Inside Straight - The Bookmark, Lumpy Ridge
Hot Licks - The Bookend, Lumpy Ridge
Quick Silver - West Ridge, Eldorado Canyon
Hand Crack - The Box, Flatirons
Cunning Stunt - The Maiden, Flatirons
Offwidth Bulge - The Quarry Wall, Golden
Gates of Eden - Bell Buttress, Boulder Canyon
Doin' The Band - Jungle Wall, Big Thompson Canyon
Coffin Crack - Castle Rock, Boulder Canyon
By Gully - Castle Rock, Boulder Canyon
Super Squeeze - The Dome, Boulder Canyon
Crack of Desperation - Vampire Rock, Boulder Canyon
Tiger's Tooth - Twin Owls, Lumpy Ridge
Euclid's Corner - Ridge 3, Flatirons
Initial Hangover - West Ridge, Eldorado Canyon
Turnkorner - Sundance Buttress, Lumpy Ridge
Captain Beyond - Mickey Mouse Wall, Eldorado Mountain
Right Side aka Bong Session - Black Widow Slab, Boulder Canyon
Crack of Dawn - Sleeping Beauty, Boulder Canyon
The Devil's Plaything - Devil's Wings, Flatirons
Bacon Bits - Physical Crag, Eldorado Canyon
Crack a Beer - Bumbling Stock, Clear Creek Canyon
Offwidth - The Monestary, Big Thompson Canyon
Dreams Of Darkness - Sobo Buttress, Eldorado Canyon
Far Out - Ridge 2, Flatirons
Twister - Twin Owls, Lumpy Ridge
The Diving Board - Redgarden Wall, Eldorado Canyon
Simian's Way - Mickey Mouse Wall, Eldorado Mountain
The Umph Slot - The Dome, Boulder Canyon
Crack of Fear - Twin Owls, Lumpy Ridge
Under The Influence - Ridge 4, Flatirons
On-Slot - Continental Crag, Eldorado Canyon
Acrophile - The Acrophile, South Saint Vrain Canyon
Peaches and Cream - Twin Owls, Lumpy Ridge
Haradrim - Upper Infirmary Slabs, South Saint Vrain Canyon
Bacon and Ergs - Physical Crag, Eldorado Canyon
Truth - The Bookend, Lumpy Ridge
Buildering
Blockbuster Offwidth - 28th St & Arapahoe Shopping Center
Honorable Mention
stuff that is wide, but doesn't require OW tech
Athlete's Feat - Castle Rock, Boulder Canyon
Yoni - Achean Pronouncement, Flatirons
Grandmother's Challenge - Redgarden Wall, Eldorado Canyon
Burly Man - North Table Mountain, Golden
Rumors and Such
Animal Magnetism - Closed
??? - Buttonrock Dam
Welcome To The Jungle - Jungle Wall, Big Thompson Canyon
Fin City #3 Offwidth, Lumpy Ridge
Prod.
|
|
SteveW
Trad climber
The state of confusion
|
|
|
Mar 20, 2011 - 01:07pm PT
|
Prod
Knott Kor's Flake on Lumpy? It's a classic!!!!!
|
|
eeyonkee
Trad climber
Golden, CO
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 21, 2011 - 09:37am PT
|
Thanks for that Prod. I guess I should change my opening post to the "threeish" offwidths in Boulder.
|
|
Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
|
|
|
Mar 21, 2011 - 09:48am PT
|
four if you want to count the black. All those greenie areas are pretty much the same place, right?
|
|
goatboy smellz
climber
Nederland
|
|
|
Mar 21, 2011 - 05:11pm PT
|
I would be up for another go at Bacon and Ergs now that we know what gear to bring to avoid the deck. I suggest a proper outing this time with food, beer and a rousting peanut gallery to help with motivation. Lets keep digging this hole to success!
|
|
Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
|
|
|
Mar 21, 2011 - 05:53pm PT
|
Bacon and ergs?
|
|
Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
|
|
|
Mar 21, 2011 - 11:09pm PT
|
¡Wow!
¿Donde esta?
¿Splatte?
|
|
micronut
Trad climber
fresno, ca
|
|
|
Mar 21, 2011 - 11:30pm PT
|
Lucille.....Just lieback it. By looking at that photo I'd say its just 5.8+....what's all the fuss?
|
|
goatboy smellz
climber
Nederland
|
|
|
Mar 22, 2011 - 10:48am PT
|
That's up on Physical Crag in Eldorado. Not too far in, a good after work challenge, we may even be able to talk Prod into carrying the gear.
|
|
eeyonkee
Trad climber
Golden, CO
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 22, 2011 - 12:19pm PT
|
If Prod carries the Number 6 Camalot, I'm in. That is a pretty cool crack.
|
|
Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
|
|
|
Mar 22, 2011 - 01:28pm PT
|
It's your side in!
|
|
Prod
Trad climber
|
|
|
Mar 22, 2011 - 09:06pm PT
|
I'm in and I have 2 #6's too boot.
Prod.
|
|
eeyonkee
Trad climber
Golden, CO
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 22, 2011 - 09:22pm PT
|
Cool. How about this Saturday. I must admit, I'd hoped that the Road to Lucille would not involve doing a lot of hard offwidths - I mean, c'mon, offsidths are hard and they extract a toll on your skin and stuff. I was hoping more for like, eating vegemite sandwiches and flossing to get me through this.
But I'm not totally delusional. Clearly, a few 5.11 - 5.11+ offwidths need to be on the regimen if you hope to do a 5.12+ or harder offwidth (I guess). So this, 5.11b, short, but with a long hike offwidth, might be just the ticket...an early indication if I'll "have the right stuff".
|
|
Captain...or Skully
climber
The Seas of Stone.
|
|
|
Mar 22, 2011 - 09:33pm PT
|
Maybe keep up the flossing regimen, too.
|
|
eeyonkee
Trad climber
Golden, CO
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 22, 2011 - 09:38pm PT
|
I didn't start flossing or regularly putting on sunscreen until I was in my 40s. Now, I'm a good boy.
|
|
Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
|
|
|
Mar 22, 2011 - 09:44pm PT
|
Good on ya, about the teeth. That one mutual friend of ours, who is not in the same decade as us, and NOT a beer drinker, has been known to do his own sef-dentistry...
There's a road after Lucille too ya know. it's only one stop along, The Way...jess sayin'....
|
|
eeyonkee
Trad climber
Golden, CO
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 22, 2011 - 09:54pm PT
|
Say, what? I think you're too deep for me Jaybro. I'm a beer drinker.
|
|
Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
|
|
|
Mar 22, 2011 - 10:07pm PT
|
"Miller tastes too good, to hurry through..."
I'm just sayin' there's a growing list of list of stuff, beyond Lucille, to sink your teeth into. After you do that, one.
|
|
nutjob
Gym climber
Berkeley, CA
|
|
|
Mar 22, 2011 - 10:24pm PT
|
After Lucille you must have lost whatever brain cells there were to begin with, so you can do the whole Road to Lucille in reverse and every time it's like the first time.
Or maybe if you climb too many upside down wide things, you fully realize the metaphysical longing and become a bat?
|
|
eeyonkee
Trad climber
Golden, CO
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 22, 2011 - 10:32pm PT
|
Do I KNOW you Nutjob (you seem to know me).
|
|
nutjob
Gym climber
Berkeley, CA
|
|
|
Mar 22, 2011 - 10:49pm PT
|
I don't know you eeyonkee,I just hang out at ST and spew when work gets ugly.
I do like to climb wide stuff, but I don't see my road going much further than Twilight Zone or Cream.
Edit: Mental note to self, careful that dry humor isn't fully dehydrated by writing... I was using "you" in the general sense of "one" (as in anyone who reaches the level of wide enlightenment to climb Lucille), but it does sound like what I wrote was an attack. I didn't mean it that way, sorry if that's how it came out.
|
|
Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
|
|
|
Mar 22, 2011 - 10:59pm PT
|
And I know both of you. He's game, Grug. Strong with impeccable skillz I think we can infect him, just gotta get him out to Vedauwoo as soon as he does Twilight Zone. After that he's our's....
|
|
scuffy b
climber
dissected alluvial deposits, late Pleistocene
|
|
|
Mar 23, 2011 - 11:48am PT
|
Grug, I think a thorough comparison of VegeMite and MarMite would be
beneficial. A case of each would allow many replications of double-blind
testing and lead to determination of ideal dosages.
|
|
eeyonkee
Trad climber
Golden, CO
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 23, 2011 - 02:43pm PT
|
I like that Scuffy...it's scientific.
Nutjob - I wasn't at all inferring that you were dissing me. I was just TRYING to be funny. I'm not nearly as good as, say, Fish.
|
|
Phantom X
Trad climber
Honeycomb Hideout
|
|
|
Mar 23, 2011 - 03:33pm PT
|
Pregnant idea scuffy b. I think it's about time we with the advanced minds conduct us some scienific experiments. Does anyone have any hypothesis? I'm thinkin that for one we'll find that Vegamite makes one surly. Did you see the way Grug snapped at the always well meaning Nutjob and then after the Vegamite wore off backpedaled and coughed up that half baked lame excuse? Further!!!
|
|
scuffy b
climber
dissected alluvial deposits, late Pleistocene
|
|
|
Mar 23, 2011 - 04:28pm PT
|
I think he should start eating MarMite sandwiches.
|
|
Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
|
|
|
Mar 23, 2011 - 07:07pm PT
|
Has a 'stralian ever climbed Lucille?
I think Not!
|
|
MH2
climber
|
|
|
Mar 24, 2011 - 01:13pm PT
|
"Does anyone have any hypothesis?"
This may be exactly what he is looking for.
From a very scientific source:
[quote]
The placebo effect, also known as non-specific effects and the subject-expectancy effect, is the phenomenon that a patient's symptoms can be alleviated by an otherwise ineffective treatment, since the individual expects or believes that it will work.
[end quote]
I am also told by a usually reliable source that there is a double placebo effect in which you give the subject a placebo, tell them that it is a placebo, and they still benefit from it.
Sounds like we already have a perfectly adequate experimental group of 1; a positive-minded, right-thinking, go-anywhere type.
But MarMite???
As a kid visiting a friend's home, that stuff spread on toast and handed to innocent me turned me into a bitter cynic distrustful of all adults.
|
|
Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
|
|
|
Mar 24, 2011 - 01:42pm PT
|
|
|
scuffy b
climber
dissected alluvial deposits, late Pleistocene
|
|
|
Mar 24, 2011 - 01:54pm PT
|
Well then, you must be a VegeMite fan, correct?
I suspect that the real reason no Australian has climbed Lucille is that
there are two kinds of Australian: VegeMite eaters and MarMite eaters.
Nobody, up until Eeyonkee's revolutionary 2011 training regimen, has
rigorously combined the two in a conscientiously applied program of regular
professional care---hold on, I got my cliches conflated--
I mean, when Eeyonkee goes on a program of eating both Vegemite and Marmite
sandwiches, with sufficient visualization of tops of pullup bars and
bursting finish-line tapes, he will CRUSH.
|
|
Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
|
|
|
Mar 24, 2011 - 02:09pm PT
|
I dunno, "imagine all the cells of your body exploding at the speed of light!"
It's dangerous stuff, crossing the streams!
Tell him about the twinkie, Egon.
|
|
goatboy smellz
climber
Nederland
|
|
|
Mar 24, 2011 - 08:09pm PT
|
This Saturday is no good for me, I have to meet up with
a ski bunny in Minturn, besides it's suppose to snow
and I would like to keep up my reputation as a
fairweather climber.
How about the next Saturday, April 2?
|
|
Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
|
|
|
Mar 24, 2011 - 09:12pm PT
|
Crostraining the Minturn mile?
|
|
eeyonkee
Trad climber
Golden, CO
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 25, 2011 - 09:47pm PT
|
Sheesh, Vegemite isn't all that cheap either. I'm thinking that if, in the end, I can't do Lucille, it will likely be because I can't afford my training regimen.
|
|
SteveW
Trad climber
The state of confusion
|
|
|
Mar 25, 2011 - 10:21pm PT
|
Pizza 'n beer, grug--you know the way. . .
hee hee hee. . . but try some sushi too, just sayin'
|
|
Phantom X
Trad climber
Honeycomb Hideout
|
|
|
Mar 26, 2011 - 12:12am PT
|
Today for training and to make pleasant conversation I asked a snooty friend of my wife's if she had heard any updates on Eeyonkee and Goatboy Smellz and she right away made a painfull face and snapped "What a combo, are these your barnyard friends?" ??? It caught me off guard and all I could come up with was "They can talk." She muttered something about leaving me to my insanity. Only she made it sound sad. Sheesh.
|
|
Elcapinyoazz
Social climber
Joshua Tree
|
|
|
Mar 26, 2011 - 12:22am PT
|
Marmite (which one, the British, or the NZ/Aussie?...two different things ya know)...vs Vegemite...but you leave out Promite?
Southern hemisphere version:
Brit version:
Brit Marmite is tasty. But I also like sprinkling brewers yeast on my popcorn...no accounting for tastes I guess.
|
|
Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
|
|
|
Mar 26, 2011 - 01:19pm PT
|
How's the Ergonomics going? Today is the day isn't it?
|
|
goatboy smellz
climber
Nederland
|
|
|
Mar 29, 2011 - 10:28am PT
|
Phantom X you can tell your wife's friend my tongue is a well known asset, it's eight inches long and when I stick it out I can breath through my ears. A real party pleaser.
|
|
Prod
Trad climber
|
|
|
Mar 29, 2011 - 10:43am PT
|
Snooty people suck ass.
Prod.
|
|
eeyonkee
Trad climber
Golden, CO
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 29, 2011 - 08:08pm PT
|
It caught me off guard and all I could come up with was "They can talk."
The wife says your a chump.
Funny sh#t, PhantomX (the wife thinks so too).
|
|
Phantom X
Trad climber
Honeycomb Hideout
|
|
|
Mar 30, 2011 - 01:39am PT
|
I can't tell, are you on the snooty lady's side or mine?
|
|
Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
|
|
|
Mar 30, 2011 - 01:45am PT
|
Snooty ladies just don't gotta be named Lucille.
|
|
eeyonkee
Trad climber
Golden, CO
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 29, 2011 - 04:00pm PT
|
Tentative date - weekend of August 5th. Just saw Jaybro, Pamela, and Pat (Kingsbury) at the Pearl Street Mall in Boulder. Man, them's the offwidth crew for sure.
|
|
Gal
Trad climber
a semi lucid consciousness
|
|
|
Apr 29, 2011 - 04:09pm PT
|
Good Luck good luck!!!!!!
|
|
SteveW
Trad climber
The state of confusion
|
|
|
Apr 29, 2011 - 04:10pm PT
|
Whoa!!!!
They're tryin' to sneak in and become prancers!!!!
|
|
Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
|
|
|
Apr 29, 2011 - 04:17pm PT
|
That's Offwidth Gangsters, Grug....
-dble OWG
|
|
goatboy smellz
climber
Nederland
|
|
|
Apr 29, 2011 - 04:25pm PT
|
Old White Gangsters...the most terrifying kind.
|
|
eeyonkee
Trad climber
Golden, CO
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 29, 2011 - 04:31pm PT
|
Yer gonna give it a go, right Hankster? If those offwidth gangsters can do it...
|
|
Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
|
|
|
Jun 29, 2011 - 01:06pm PT
|
So,
We still on for around august 5th?
I'll be there.
|
|
Blitzo
Social climber
Earth
|
|
|
Jun 29, 2011 - 01:17pm PT
|
Letz do it!
|
|
eeyonkee
Trad climber
Golden, CO
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 13, 2011 - 06:33pm PT
|
Hadn't seen this since you posted last, Jaybro. Heading out on Friday, Aug 5.
|
|
SteveW
Trad climber
The state of confusion
|
|
|
Jul 13, 2011 - 06:34pm PT
|
Whoo hoo, the Voo wide fest!
I'll bring some beer!!!1
|
|
Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
|
|
|
Jul 13, 2011 - 06:46pm PT
|
How them squats doin' Grug?
|
|
goatboy smellz
climber
Nederland
|
|
|
Jul 13, 2011 - 08:02pm PT
|
I hear he's gunning for the elusive "off the couch onsight.
|
|
Gal
Trad climber
a semi lucid consciousness
|
|
|
Jul 13, 2011 - 08:14pm PT
|
I hear he's gunning for the elusive "off the couch onsight.
That made me laugh.
|
|
eeyonkee
Trad climber
Golden, CO
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 13, 2011 - 08:36pm PT
|
What's so elusive about it? Hell, I've been doing deep knee bends and such. I'd almost call that cheating for a real off the couch onsight.
|
|
Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
|
|
|
Jul 13, 2011 - 09:35pm PT
|
Lots of 12 ounce curls, too, I suppose? Though if it's in a glass stein, that can double the effort.
|
|
eeyonkee
Trad climber
Golden, CO
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 13, 2011 - 09:39pm PT
|
I drink 2 Fosters Oil cans every day - 25 oz. Again, feels like cheating.
|
|
klk
Trad climber
cali
|
|
|
Jul 13, 2011 - 09:56pm PT
|
Veedawoo is gorgeous.
Too bad the cracks are all wide and grainy.
How is it lookin for the gill boulder up at lake marie?
|
|
Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
|
|
|
Jul 14, 2011 - 01:04am PT
|
I'm going to be In the snowies weekend after next, Kerwin, I'll check it out for you.
|
|
Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
|
|
|
Jul 15, 2011 - 12:27am PT
|
She was asking about you, Grug...
|
|
Dick_Lugar
Trad climber
Collie-Rad-O! (FC to be exact)
|
|
|
Jul 15, 2011 - 01:04am PT
|
I can't speak for that "Grug" guy, but just looking at Lucille's pink slot glistening in the sun makes me want to lube up and slide in deep into her deep, granitic cavity...
Oh man, only me 3rd day out on a oil rig and I'm having bad thoughts...it's gonna be a long night!
|
|
SteveW
Trad climber
The state of confusion
|
|
|
Jul 15, 2011 - 01:57am PT
|
Dick, I thought you were teaching????
You be careful with your fingers out there!!!!!
|
|
Dick_Lugar
Trad climber
Collie-Rad-O! (FC to be exact)
|
|
|
Jul 15, 2011 - 02:15am PT
|
Hey Steve..teaching put on hold due to finances. I'm liking the CO alt. teacher certification. Gonna work in the oil patches for a year or two to pay off debt and give 'er a try then.
Not losing fingers, safely sitting in a trailer waiting for some "mud" to shake out. Putting my geology deg. to good use!
YOu teaching yet?
|
|
eeyonkee
Trad climber
Golden, CO
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 15, 2011 - 10:12am PT
|
I'll tell you what I need. I need a plan!
|
|
Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
|
|
|
Jul 15, 2011 - 10:14am PT
|
Hmm, Impure thoughts....Someone with the initial L Warned me about that, viz a vie Lucille a while back...
They looking for more teacher/loggers out there?
|
|
Brunosafari
Boulder climber
OR
|
|
|
Jul 15, 2011 - 10:39am PT
|
Plan-
1. Close shave
2. Tincture of Benzoin "undergarment"
3. Sticky Rubber Wetsuit
4. Energy Snacks
5. left and right Wilson A2000 ball gloves, outfielder model.
6. Footwear:go barefoot in order to open snacks easily.
|
|
eeyonkee
Trad climber
Golden, CO
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 15, 2011 - 10:50am PT
|
Not bad...that's exactly what I'm talking brunosafari. A real plan, with real steps, even if some of them need a little polishing.
|
|
Phantom X
Trad climber
Honeycomb Hideout
|
|
|
Jul 15, 2011 - 12:38pm PT
|
Although I read somewhere that you were a chump and will never make it, I don't know who would say that.... wait I remember now, it was that brunosafari guy, anyway I forgot what I was going to say. Hey when I first saw this thread I assumed that it would be full of entertainment in the form of lots of agony. So far it seems like what with your imported suds and vegamite paste that your incorporating some sort of screw off technique. I know, similar to an approach to offwidths I've worked on for decades with but little success . This forum is not a venue for personal attacks! Just kidding you dumb...! Again just kidding. Anyway a little agony would be nice.
|
|
SteveW
Trad climber
The state of confusion
|
|
|
Jul 15, 2011 - 12:53pm PT
|
Dick
No job yet--though I've been hired as a sub for one district here--I'm
hoping it's a foot in the door for something more permanent.
Good that you're using the geology--but again, be careful!!!!
|
|
Brunosafari
Boulder climber
OR
|
|
|
Jul 15, 2011 - 05:42pm PT
|
Eeyonkee- I took a chance posting, thinking I might have an opportunity since The Phantom X was said to be climbing The Hulk with his German Shepherd, "Shultzie." I didn't call you a chump...I said you should use your rump. I didn't say you wouldn't make it...I said you'd have a better chance if you sent Jim , Gail and also Mr. Gibby up first for beta.
|
|
Dick_Lugar
Trad climber
Collie-Rad-O! (FC to be exact)
|
|
|
Jul 15, 2011 - 07:45pm PT
|
Good luck Steve! Keep us posted as to what turns up for you. I'm being x-tremely careful: hardhat, steel toed botts, googles, and fire-retardant coveralls!
Jaybro-They are always looking for a few good MEN...or WOMEN! Not for the faint of heart I'm afraid.
Gotta run, next sample at 6,380 ft., at 6,373 ft. now.
|
|
goatboy smellz
climber
Nederland
|
|
|
Jul 15, 2011 - 10:32pm PT
|
Anyway a little agony would be nice.
oh no no no it's all about finding Lucille's sweet spot, pure pressure pleasure yo!
|
|
SteveW
Trad climber
The state of confusion
|
|
|
Jul 16, 2011 - 12:04am PT
|
Grugger--no smooth, you wanna stick in there!!!!
|
|
eeyonkee
Trad climber
Golden, CO
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 16, 2011 - 10:53am PT
|
Phantom X (if that even is your real name), if I had a dollar for every time I was called a chump, let me think...I guess I'd be about $3 richer, so let's forget about that angle. I know it was you. Don't mistake me for my brother Jim, who probably WOULD have forgotten. Agony, huh? I'll buy that. Could still happen real easily before the end of this thing. A lot more likely than, say, me having some kind of sexual experience with Lucille as some posters are suggesting.
|
|
Prod
Trad climber
|
|
|
Jul 16, 2011 - 12:58pm PT
|
(if that even is your real name),
hahaha
What we need is some practice.
Give me a shout.
Prod.
|
|
eeyonkee
Trad climber
Golden, CO
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 19, 2011 - 12:12am PT
|
Ok. I've got a plan of sorts. So I went to Vedauwoo last weekend with the missus. Spent a bunch of time hiking around seemingly aimlessly with a real heavy pack, but also managed to get a little offwidth practice in on some notable test pieces. Here's what I found out.
I can't stack to save my life - but I can still armbar. Screw stacking! Stacking hurts my shoulders. Armbars are a tried and true method that don't work everywhere, but where they do, they have the advantage that you don't need a knee to hold your ass in. The active armbar pressure is what holds you in. This allows you to actually use your feet to advance your arms upward, rather than just knee placements. The order of activity is:
1. Armbar is set as high as possible.
2. Feet slide upward and are set.
3. Armbar slides upward.
4. Repeat.
(In addition, when leading, somehow find the wherewithal to get something in and clipped).
From experience, I would add, go as fast as humanly possible when you are on a hard part of an armbar section. Your destination should be a, typically wider or narrower section of the crack where you can get a rest. When you can get rests in an armbar sequence, they can be really good, so its good to keep that in mind. A typical end to a hard armbarring sequence is a chicken wing at a wide bit. You could read War and Peace while in a chicken wing position. You might also think about placing gear from such a position.
Lucille appears, to me, to be mainly a long, left-side-in armbarring problem. This weekend, I was able to do the Vedauwoo test piece, Big Pink, relatively easily as a left-side-in armbar. Another classic test piece, October Light, a little easier, also has been easy for me as a left-side-in armbar. These are 5.11 offwidths. Some folks think Big Pink might be harder. Lucille is rated 5.13a.
Like that Saturday Night Live episode where Paul Simon admits that he might be at a height disadvantage in his one-on-one match against Kareem Abdul Jabbar, I'd have to admit that the Lucille might be out of my league. But maybe not.
|
|
Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
|
|
|
Jul 19, 2011 - 12:25am PT
|
For a man of your skillz, there will be no stacking on Lucille.
I did one of the first ascents ( Bob did the other one) of short but wide (aka Big pink)as a left side in armbar OW. I think I mostly climbed October Light right side in though(?)
If you don't want beta, don't read this
-I climbed Luciie as a left side in Chicken wing- but you're substantially larger than I.
Do you have a belayer lined up for this? Can I go too?
|
|
Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
|
|
|
Jul 19, 2011 - 01:26am PT
|
This could take longer than the WoS saga. You could at least post some photos. (teasing)
|
|
Darwin
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
|
|
|
Jul 19, 2011 - 01:36am PT
|
Will someone tell me if they are even talking about climbing on the WoS thread? This thread totally f*#king ROCKS compared to that. I mean with terms like "left side in", "arm bar" and "chicken wing" it has to rock.
Darwin
|
|
Gal
Trad climber
a semi lucid consciousness
|
|
|
Jul 19, 2011 - 03:01am PT
|
Eeyonkee don't you dare throw in the towel (not that you were going to), you can do it!!!!! I hope you give her a whirl!!!! Sending encouragement vibes your way :-) !!!!
|
|
eeyonkee
Trad climber
Golden, CO
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 19, 2011 - 07:49am PT
|
I guess I equate armbars with chicken wings and contrast the combined technique to stacking. I would, of course, try to get chicken wings in wherever I could. The more wings, the easier it will be. Maybe I'll bring a novel. I never did finish that stupid, Myth of Sisysphus.
You are, of course, welcome to climb this with me Jaybro. I don't know if Hankster is still in. Sheesh, with how you seem to climbing, I wouldn't be surprised if you kill this thing.
I plan on being in Vedauwoo this coming weekend, again. Got any "almost like Lucille" suggestions?
|
|
SteveW
Trad climber
The state of confusion
|
|
|
Jul 19, 2011 - 10:26am PT
|
I can see it know, Greg and Lucille. . .
And Greg does it!!!!!
|
|
Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
|
|
|
Jul 20, 2011 - 09:40pm PT
|
invalid without pics, so take a lot.
just sayin
;)
|
|
Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
|
|
|
Jul 20, 2011 - 10:22pm PT
|
Yeah speaking of pictures, I'd like to hang in the cave and take some, if someone else can belay...
|
|
SteveW
Trad climber
The state of confusion
|
|
|
Jul 21, 2011 - 01:20am PT
|
Jaybro, count me in, I'll be your belay bi***. . .
Really!
(as long as you don't take no pics of me, that is). . .
|
|
Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
|
|
|
Jul 21, 2011 - 01:37am PT
|
OK, but no freebasing. Otherwise we'll have to listen to Hank telling us about its radness in yet another movie. Though if the hotwife does the talking...
Edit: Yeah, you can tell from the photos and stories that she's a lively character.
|
|
SteveW
Trad climber
The state of confusion
|
|
|
Jul 21, 2011 - 02:38am PT
|
MH, Hank's hotwife is one SMART woman. Sheesh, I couldn't keep up with
her at Blitzo's happy hour -- she's definitely not just a pretty face!!!
|
|
Dick_Lugar
Trad climber
Collie-Rad-O! (FC to be exact)
|
|
|
Jul 21, 2011 - 02:48am PT
|
If I get the day off, I'll come watch...I could use some good comedy.
|
|
eeyonkee
Trad climber
Golden, CO
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 21, 2011 - 09:16pm PT
|
So, I just bought a number 4 Big Bro and some neoprene knee pads. NOW, I've got money into this thing! Turns out, if you're me, this is a big deal. In fact, I'd put this right up there with fear of failure as one of the top reasons I might pull this off. I mean, only because I don't have other, better stuff to count on.
For the record, my wide gear selection now consists of a #6 Camalot, a #5 Camalot, a #3 Big Bro, and a #4 Big Bro. I'm planning on borrowing another #6 Camalot from Prod for Lucille.
|
|
Gal
Trad climber
a semi lucid consciousness
|
|
|
Jul 21, 2011 - 09:25pm PT
|
I may be up there. If so, I'll bring chicken wings... a bucket of 'em.
|
|
eeyonkee
Trad climber
Golden, CO
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 21, 2011 - 09:38pm PT
|
By the way, my plan is for Jaybro and Hankster and I (and Phantom X, if he wishes to participate) to attempt this thing. Since this is my thread, I get first lead rights. Assuming I assert my right and don't wuss out because I got the itus or something, I'll, you know, get on the sharp end to start off with. If I cannot make my attempt, and remember, this is still my thread and I can do pretty much whatever the hell I want, I will give Phantom X next lead rights. Now, because Phantom X is likely to wuss out (although I have no apriori knowledge of this), my backup plan is to pretty much let Jaybro and Hankster fight it out. Have I missed anything?
|
|
Prod
Trad climber
|
|
|
Jul 21, 2011 - 09:46pm PT
|
I'll be there. And I have a #6 and #5 plus an old #5 which I think is between a new 5 and 6.
Prod.
|
|
eeyonkee
Trad climber
Golden, CO
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 21, 2011 - 09:48pm PT
|
Prod. Thanks, but leave the thinkin' to me.
|
|
Prod
Trad climber
|
|
|
Jul 21, 2011 - 09:55pm PT
|
How long is this rig? Will I be able to f*#k around on a TR send?
Prod.
|
|
SteveW
Trad climber
The state of confusion
|
|
|
Jul 21, 2011 - 09:55pm PT
|
Grug
I'll bring my #5 and #6 too!!!!
whoo hoo!!!!
|
|
eeyonkee
Trad climber
Golden, CO
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 21, 2011 - 10:01pm PT
|
So, Prod, are you telling me that to use your #6 Camalot, I have to let you, like, try on a TR? Is that what you're telling me? I've already muddled this thing up giving Phantom X free reign. I'm thinking I can borrow what I need with no strings attached from SteveW.
|
|
Prod
Trad climber
|
|
|
Jul 21, 2011 - 10:05pm PT
|
Actually with Steve's gear and my gear I think we, Steve and I, are planning on aiding that rig. Practice hauling and setting up my portaledge and cooking on the wall mid route! PTPP would consider our pace SLLLLLLOOOOOOOOOOWWWWWWWW.
So.....
There.
|
|
Prod
Trad climber
|
|
|
Jul 21, 2011 - 10:06pm PT
|
We might need to borrow your #6 though.
|
|
Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
|
|
|
Jul 21, 2011 - 10:18pm PT
|
I've pretty much had the rack in the back of my car for the last several months...
Just spoke with the other member of the First Ascent who will try to be there also...
|
|
SteveW
Trad climber
The state of confusion
|
|
|
Jul 21, 2011 - 11:44pm PT
|
Prod--I'll bring my #10 Hex for the ledge!!!!
|
|
Phantom X
Trad climber
Honeycomb Hideout
|
|
|
Jul 22, 2011 - 12:34am PT
|
Excuse me but I have just recieved an emergency message from CMac asking me if there is anything I can do to silence the obnoxious sarcasm and ridicule that seems to be emerging again on this horrible thread. I think he is refering to Grug. Not wanting to steal any glory I think I will elect to pass on your offer to let me back up lead (as usual, which I would probably most likely easily do in style) Lucille. Also I have to go to Bed, Bath and Beyond that day (Don't laugh punk, armed shoplifting trip). I'd like to see you give that a try, talk about being a wuss. By the way, don't ever call me that, it makes me hyperventalate. Especially don't say that in public. The internets OK I guess, what the heck. Hey didn't you see earlier, Brunosafari mentioned that I was going to the east side to climb the Incredible Hulk with my dog Shultz, well although untrue I thought that it reads really, really well and is probably some of the best writing ever wrote right here on your very own thread but maybe that's just in contrast to the colorlessness of some of the other post. That's very possible.
|
|
Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
|
|
|
Jul 22, 2011 - 12:37am PT
|
Who's bringin' the cat?
|
|
Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
|
|
|
Jul 22, 2011 - 12:38am PT
|
voted best thread July 2011 by Wide Guy Magazine!
|
|
eeyonkee
Trad climber
Golden, CO
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 22, 2011 - 08:17am PT
|
Wide Guy Magazine? Really. Aw shucks...I'm just a regular guy with a dream. Did they say something like that?
|
|
goatboy smellz
climber
Nederland
|
|
|
Jul 22, 2011 - 09:01am PT
|
There was a blurb in the " Where Are They Now ?" section.
|
|
Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
|
|
|
Jul 22, 2011 - 09:59am PT
|
Start slow and taper off...
|
|
Phantom X
Trad climber
Honeycomb Hideout
|
|
|
Jul 22, 2011 - 12:11pm PT
|
Voted best thread in Tough and Stringy Magazine too. Go figure.
|
|
em kn0t
Trad climber
isle of wyde
|
|
|
Jul 22, 2011 - 02:00pm PT
|
eeyonkee
looking forward to seeing you send it.
rock on,
auntie em
|
|
Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
|
|
|
Jul 22, 2011 - 08:46pm PT
|
The pot is growing, WOS style. You gonna have a warmup saturday- send Sunday? Or just go for it straight from the car?
|
|
Prod
Trad climber
|
|
|
Jul 24, 2011 - 12:20pm PT
|
After getting my ass kicked by a Vedauwoo 11a I'm thinking I'll just watch and climb other easier stff....
Prod.
|
|
Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
|
|
|
Jul 24, 2011 - 12:35pm PT
|
"Always climb over your head," Rob Slater.
|
|
goatboy smellz
climber
Nederland
|
|
|
Jul 24, 2011 - 05:55pm PT
|
"A little more grip, a little less lip." - Ice Cube
|
|
dogtown
Trad climber
JackAssVille, Wyoming
|
|
|
Jul 24, 2011 - 06:44pm PT
|
You left something off your list. Prepare to be frustrated and intimidated at the same time. Good luck on your quest.
DT.
|
|
Prod
Trad climber
|
|
|
Jul 24, 2011 - 09:59pm PT
|
"Road to Lucille" Funny according to your wife, you couldn't even find the trail to Lucille last weekend....
Prod.
|
|
Phantom X
Trad climber
Honeycomb Hideout
|
|
|
Jul 24, 2011 - 10:34pm PT
|
That was because he was focusing Prod. His wife could never know this. I wouldn't arouse this angry mutant, he is in transition stage. I've been through this many, many times when he was a boy mutant. He seems to be out, hopefully doing wind sprints and laying low so we should probably get in some cold shots so as to prepare him to his fullest capacity. As his trustworthy second I'm stuck on his reference to War and Peace. Did he read the abridged version? It's cryptic him mentioning this and I can't help but see it like this: In the book Pierre (Grug, played by Kurt Russell) representing nobility and depth, foolishly gets himself into a duel with DoloDolovich (Lucille and superficiality) to the surprise of his second (Me, played by a young James Gardner)representing purity and innocence. It's known as the comical part of the book. If you climb OW you know the outcome.
|
|
Captain...or Skully
climber
or some such
|
|
|
Jul 24, 2011 - 11:25pm PT
|
Eeyonkee's got it. He's got the skills(mad skills).
Just gotta WANT it.
|
|
goatboy smellz
climber
Nederland
|
|
|
Jul 25, 2011 - 09:51am PT
|
hey there saaaaay Grug, how was your weekend?
|
|
eeyonkee
Trad climber
Golden, CO
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 25, 2011 - 04:01pm PT
|
Goatboy; Had a fun 2nd weekend in a row at Vedauwoo, this time hanging out with Prod and Christa. Yeah, a week ago the wife and I had some trouble finding a decent trail to the base of Lucille. Is there a single cairn anywhere at Vedauwoo? Anyhow, I ended up scrambling to the base while she stayed behind. So, I at least got a look at her majesty (Lucille, not my wife) from the base of Best of the Blues.
Jaybro; I think I'll hang loose as to whether to attempt on Saturday or Sunday. I'll go with the flow.
Em; Looking forward to seeing you.
Phantom X; I'm wondering if they need writers for Zippy the Pinhead. You've got talent in this arena, I'm thinking.
Gal; Thanks for the encouragement.
Dogtown; I'm well aware of what I'm up against.
Miss anybody?
|
|
Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
|
|
|
Jul 25, 2011 - 04:12pm PT
|
Looking at Lucille right now, she wants you, Grug!
She tells me she's been lonely since kinky inverted tryst with Shanti...
|
|
eeyonkee
Trad climber
Golden, CO
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 25, 2011 - 06:19pm PT
|
Showing that picture of Shanti upside down in Lucille is always a real crowd pleaser.
|
|
426
climber
☬
|
|
|
Jul 25, 2011 - 06:34pm PT
|
As siked as I am for the bad gurl (VDS), I would have to say +/+= sike on "His Fake Book" how about 150 year combined...looking at 8/8s ish...
|
|
Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
|
|
|
Jul 29, 2011 - 10:31am PT
|
1 week to go style bump!
|
|
Crimpergirl
Sport climber
Boulder, Colorado!
|
|
|
Jul 29, 2011 - 10:53am PT
|
Go grug go! It will be an awesome go. Hoping someone videos it for those of us who cannot be there.
|
|
scuffy b
climber
dissected alluvial deposits, late Pleistocene
|
|
|
Jul 29, 2011 - 12:04pm PT
|
A video would be good.
I've got to say, I have watched Grug climb a few wide cracks, and sometimes
I simply can't understand how he's doing it.
I consider myself a fairly serious student of the genre, but some of his
movements are mysterious.
|
|
Prod
Trad climber
|
|
|
Jul 29, 2011 - 12:10pm PT
|
Are you heading up there this weekend?
Prod.
|
|
scuffy b
climber
dissected alluvial deposits, late Pleistocene
|
|
|
Jul 29, 2011 - 12:15pm PT
|
Now way, my fingers are about as tough as a baby's butt.
Ribs still clunking and creaking.
No power or time.
|
|
WBraun
climber
|
|
|
Jul 29, 2011 - 02:15pm PT
|
That thing doesn't "Look" too hard .... :-)
|
|
Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
|
|
|
Jul 31, 2011 - 01:07am PT
|
She's too shy to ask, but if anyone coming from the south could help Em of Wyde with a ride from DIA to Vedauwoo Friday afternoon, quality Wyde karma would definitely be yours!
Now how on topic is that, for a thread enticed, "Road to Lucille?"
|
|
goatboy smellz
climber
Nederland
|
|
|
Jul 31, 2011 - 08:57am PT
|
I'll send Jeeves with the cah.
What time should we expect the divine Ms. Em?
|
|
SteveW
Trad climber
The state of confusion
|
|
|
Jul 31, 2011 - 01:39pm PT
|
Jay--I could pick up the Divine ms. em also, if necessary!!!!
|
|
Blitzo
Social climber
Earth
|
|
|
Jul 31, 2011 - 01:47pm PT
|
eeyonkee, crush it bro! I wish I could be there.
|
|
Gal
Trad climber
a semi lucid consciousness
|
|
|
Jul 31, 2011 - 03:01pm PT
|
I'm going to be there. GO Eeyonkee!!!!!!! Let me know if the Divine Ms. Em has any issue finding a ride... so far it sounds like she is covered... I'll be heading up from Ft. Collins sometime Friday.
|
|
SteveW
Trad climber
The state of confusion
|
|
Grug
I sent you a pm, so if you didn't see it, check your junkmail. . .
|
|
eeyonkee
Trad climber
Golden, CO
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 1, 2011 - 10:30am PT
|
Thanks for the encouragement, everybody. Looks like Em is being taken care of. I, too, could be a backup, there. So, less than a week to go. Here's my short term plan.
1. Remember to bring a REAL pillow, not settle for a makeshift hoodie around a number 6 Camalot or something. Getting a good night's sleep is going to be key.
2. Remember to fix my blowup mattress. Again, the whole sleeping thing.
3. Apply neosporin everyday to all of my scrapes from recent time spent at Vedauwoo. Hopefully, they will be largely healed before Saturday.
4. Try to forget about the "mixed" results I've had recently. Wide cracks are hard.
5. Try to at least give up beer for this final week. I feel guilty about this, especially for those of you with money on me. 4-5 beers a day is probably not in the best training regimens. I can do better...
...Gotta get back to work. These are the easy, obvious steps in the plan. I've got a few more, but they need the light of articulation (later).
|
|
Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
|
|
Pillow, blow up doll, beer as reward not breakfast.
All sounds good, if lite...
|
|
goatboy smellz
climber
Nederland
|
|
I have something stronger than a comfy pillow for sleep, better living through chemistry yahknow.
|
|
eeyonkee
Trad climber
Golden, CO
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 1, 2011 - 11:16am PT
|
Lite, huh? The next step that I hadn't mentioned (or come up with) yet involves a bunch of hard work on my part.
|
|
Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
|
|
Hoh yeah! But you're a hard worker!
|
|
Mike Friedrichs
Sport climber
City of Salt
|
|
Grug,
Haven't decided on the drive yet but if I'm not there, I'll be sending energy your way. I think you can do it. Just be patient. There is a section where you have to be satisfied with an inch at a time. You'll get there. It's not super long, it just seems that way.
mike
Lowering out is almost as difficult as finishing, so you might as well finish!
|
|
Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
|
|
Okay, everybody tell Mike he's gotta be there too!
Lower out is only 5.10/.11a max, and that's in a swami with no legloops....
the Send is prouder, though....
|
|
eeyonkee
Trad climber
Golden, CO
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 1, 2011 - 01:17pm PT
|
Thanks Mike. That means a lot (finally, some friggin' beta!). I actually do have a strategy of sorts. One of the things I have noticed is that leading offwidths these days is harder for me compared to the old days because of how "easy" it is to keep a piece above you. Of course, it's not easy at all. I would say screwing around trying to keep gear above you (and the peace of mind that comes with that) makes a lead 75% harder. The rope's always getting stuck against your knee or butt against the rock...and then you try to push the leading piece up and you can't! Aaaarggghhhh! The old days were simpler...you just had to go for it. That's the way I did Air Voyage (probably my hardest lead OW) The key is to wait for the rest to place pro.
So, I'm hoping I can place such that it isn't actually dangerous for a big whipper and then go out ahead of my pro. Then I can focus on the OW climbing and not on the pro.
|
|
Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
|
|
I'm hoping I can place such that it isn't actually dangerous for a big whipper and then go out ahead of my pro
That's what I did!
|
|
ydpl8s
Trad climber
Santa Monica, California
|
|
Air Voyage? Yowsa!, maybe there's your answer, you just need more than a 1000 feet of exposure and warmup :-)
|
|
eeyonkee
Trad climber
Golden, CO
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 1, 2011 - 02:31pm PT
|
My history with Air Voyage actually supports my case. I actually did Air Voyage three times. In 1990 and 1992 I did it the "old style" way with Clean Dan Grandusky and Tom Dickey, respectively, and led it relatively easily. In 2005, with George Lowe, trying to keep a piece above me, I got completely shut down and ended up aiding the thing.
Of course, a big part of the going out above your pro strategy relies on your having lots of confidence in your ability to hang in there. That's where the upcoming hypnosis session's going to work for me.
|
|
em kn0t
Trad climber
isle of wyde
|
|
hi all
yes, spontaneous teleportation is arranged with goatboy
(& thanks to others who offered ride)
Mike you sure BETTER be there... counting on seeing you!
Auntie Em
PS Greg: You're the man, you will flash, please.
Brutus's beta for OW was "a quarter-inch is GOOD progress...you just need to keep doing that quarter-inch over and over...and over...and over..."
|
|
ydpl8s
Trad climber
Santa Monica, California
|
|
Hypnosis, well that should at least work with the sleep thing.
|
|
Prod
Trad climber
|
|
1. Remember to bring a REAL pillow, not settle for a makeshift hoodie around a number 6 Camalot or something. Getting a good night's sleep is going to be key.
2. Remember to fix my blowup mattress. Again, the whole sleeping thing.
3. Apply neosporin everyday to all of my scrapes from recent time spent at Vedauwoo. Hopefully, they will be largely healed before Saturday.
4. Try to forget about the "mixed" results I've had recently. Wide cracks are hard.
5. Try to at least give up beer for this final week. I feel guilty about this, especially for those of you with money on me. 4-5 beers a day is probably not in the best training regimens. I can do better...
To your #2, you can come over one evening and use my hot tub to find the leak.
To your #5, WTF? You're not a sport climber, your an OW climber. Drink beer be a man!
#2 and #5 combined, If you aint drinking beer then you can't come over and use the hot tub.
Prod.
|
|
Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
|
|
Oooh. Prod got the coveted 296 post. only 800 to go!
|
|
Stephen McCabe
Trad climber
near Santa Cruz, CA
|
|
Yes, 1096 is a good number.
|
|
eeyonkee
Trad climber
Golden, CO
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 1, 2011 - 08:50pm PT
|
Prod, I'll get back with you in private. Obscure, but like it, Jaybro. Is this some kind of codified message that 1096 would be good practice for Lucille? Luckily, I've watched some of those crummy Dan Brown movies and also am following a post that explicitly pointed out your codified message. Hmmmm...I did on-site that one back in the day. Who can forget the iconic picture of Phil Gleason on this climb? But, of course, that's 10.96 and not 12.96.
|
|
Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
|
|
Just seemed obscurely offwidth related...
|
|
philo
Trad climber
Somewhere halfway over the rainbow
|
|
Of course, a big part of the going out above your pro strategy relies on your having lots of confidence in your ability to hang in there. While your ball sack hangs way out there and your O-ring tightens enough to cut washers off of.
Two things Grugster.
Joe Frasier used to soak his head in hydrogen peroxide to toughen his facial skin against the pounding Ali was going to give it. Also, human skin has an incredible coefficient of friction as witnessed by the amazing barefoot ascents by real tough guys.
So my suggestion is you fill Prod's hot tub with H2O2 and soak your beer fattened kiester for a couple of good long sessions. Then go get Lucille in the nude. After that no one will bother you no matter how much brew you swill.
Come on man you are a Stout Silver Back! Get er Dun!
Seriously good luck. You can do it if you believe you can. Cheers!
|
|
Prod
Trad climber
|
|
All I can say,,, is Philo knows how to party!
Prod.
|
|
Captain...or Skully
climber
or some such
|
|
I agree. We're rootin' for ya over here, too, Eeyonkee.
That can't hurt. Lucille is goin' DOWN!!!2!!
|
|
eeyonkee
Trad climber
Golden, CO
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 2, 2011 - 11:17pm PT
|
Hey all. Sheesh, I'm not the best at planning things...but here's the plan. I'm going to leave Boulder at around 1:00 pm on Friday and will try to secure the campsite area at the end of Rd 700E, identified as "PartyLand" in the Vedauwoo Guide by Robert Kelman. It might be called PartyLand, but, make no mistake, it's a serious camp site. Go past the pay campground about a mile or so, look for a right turn (700E) and follow it to its end. There will be an Aspen forest in front of a Crag. Ask for Eeeyonkeee.
|
|
Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
|
|
I'm driving down Thursday, but will probablly be in the pay campground away from tweaker country... may move over though, if there are enough people and someone there all the time...
|
|
eeyonkee
Trad climber
Golden, CO
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 3, 2011 - 12:00am PT
|
I was thinking that there might be more people than could be accommodated at the pay campground. Maybe if we can secure like 3 campsites at the pay campground, we can settle there. Ill keep you all posted.
|
|
Mike Friedrichs
Sport climber
City of Salt
|
|
I'm leaving way early Saturday and hope to arrive in time for the "event," if not for the afterglow. Stay psyched Greg, you've got this. Or as Russ would say, "it's your side in."
|
|
dogtown
Trad climber
JackAssVille, Wyoming
|
|
I’m crushed no love!
|
|
Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
|
|
You're gonna be there right Dawg?!
|
|
Mike Friedrichs
Sport climber
City of Salt
|
|
Reflection style bump.
I've been thinking about this a bit lately. It was a long time ago. No Jay didn't flash it. But you have to have some perspective. Nothing this hard had been done at Vedauwoo. It was sort of our version of the 4-minute mile. I don't think there was ever any doubt in Jay's mind that he could do it, but there probably was some uncertainty about when.
Jay had to provide most of the energy. He had a partner who didn't have the same vision. I believed that Jay could do it, but at least initially I didn't think I belonged there. If you've ever been in this situation, you understand. Jay always had more confidence in me that I did.
We didn't have modern gear. We had tube chocks and two wobbly Yates cams. In fact, I was so determined to follow clean that I couldn't retrieve one of the cams. These cams had the unfortunate property that the trigger bar didn't collapse the cams all the way. When we went back the next day to get it, it was gone. I wish whoever took it would return it so we could put it in the offwidth hall of fame.
We were thwarted by various obstacles: thunderstorms, homework, beer, Norwegian girls. Ultimately we were a lot more successful with Lucille than the Norwegian girls. There is some dealage just getting up there.
So you have to admire Jay's vision, tenacity, determination, and ultimately success. I hope this weekend will be a celebration of that whether Greg does it in one try or not (I think he can - he's got mad skills). Here's to ya Jaybro. Awesome!
Here's some other details that I remember. The belay is in a refrigerator. Really. Take a down coat. It's freezing in there. The "anchor" at the time was a piece of rope wrapped around a horn or boulder or something. I always lead the approach pitch. The rack is a #4 friend. We always approached via free solo of Ed's crack with a big obnoxious tune box strapped to my pack.
See you all Saturday I hope. Good luck Greg.
|
|
Brandon-
climber
The Granite State.
|
|
It's going down!!! Send!!!!
|
|
Shanti
Trad climber
The Dragon's Liar
|
|
Mike thank you for the lovely comments about your experience with Jay on Lucille. Your respect and support for his vision inspired a new chapter in the history of hard offwidths. That route is ALL about the passion to climb, about partnership and unstoppable determination and you can feel it as you walk out that ledge. Thank you two for creating a master-piece.
Good luck to you Greg!!! I wish I could be there with you sitting in that cold cave of doom and cheering for you, but I will be cheering for you from The Bering Sea!
PS Send my regards to that little lady -- she's a soul crushing beauty to be sure!
BETA: Upside-down and right-side in ;)
|
|
eeyonkee
Trad climber
Golden, CO
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 4, 2011 - 11:53pm PT
|
Nice post Mike. Thanks for the clarification on how it all went down. This is a beautiful climb with a great story. I'd wondered whether you had actually been able to follow it. Not surprised at all.
Thanks for the support Shanti (and everyone else) - maybe not so much for the beta. I'm going with the head up approach.
|
|
philo
Trad climber
Somewhere halfway over the rainbow
|
|
Hey Grug, my best suggestion, other than the H2O2 hot tub, is that if you hear thunder, even distant thunder, get out of there FAST!!!!!! Go back after it clears. Walt's Wall is where I got lit up. Here's to blue skies, good gear and limited blood letting, Best of luck man!
|
|
flyingkiwi1
Trad climber
Seattle WA
|
|
What an awesome thread. May a good time be had by all!
Ian
|
|
Lasti
Trad climber
Budapest
|
|
GO FOR IT!
Sending all available send vibes your way. Hope some make it across the Atlantic.
Lasti
p.s. Being in a country where offwidths are practically nonexistent, this thread has been a great link to wild, wild world of wide I miss so much. All the positive energy and support thrown out to Greg on his quest have shown that when it really matters, i.e. in climbing, the Taco crew are a great bunch of people.
|
|
eeyonkee
Trad climber
Golden, CO
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 5, 2011 - 08:36am PT
|
It's interesting that the newest Vedauwoo guidebook (Zach Orenczak and Rachael Lynn) re-establishes the 5.13a grade for Lucille, whereas the earlier guidebook called it 5.12b. Some other climbs that I'm familiar with have been downgraded in the new book: Left Torpedo Tube from 5.10d to 5.10a; Right Torpedo Tube from 5.11c to 5.11b; October Light from 5.11b to 5.11a. Big Pink stays at 5.11b. Not used to seeing hard, older climbs actually downgraded in newer guidebooks. I'm assuming that .13a is what Jaybro and Mike originally rated Lucille (I should know this).
|
|
scuffy b
climber
dissected alluvial deposits, late Pleistocene
|
|
Quick, name three 5.10 offwidth cracks that are harder than Left
Torpedo Tube.
|
|
Prod
Trad climber
|
|
Bummed to not be there to cheer you on Eeyonkee.
Uhh...
God Speed
May the force be with you
Good luck
Break a leg
You can do it (think Adam Sandler movies)
Send it dude
nothing but a thang
get er done
Prod.
|
|
goatboy smellz
climber
Nederland
|
|
You're not coming Prod?
sheesh after all this hype I was hoping you were up for a lap.
|
|
Prod
Trad climber
|
|
Gotta work Goat.
I've been waiting for a permit from Boulder County since June 29th. I'm picking it up today and working 6 days a week for the next month or so...
Prod.
|
|
eeyonkee
Trad climber
Golden, CO
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 5, 2011 - 01:40pm PT
|
That's right, Scuffy, last time I did Left Torpedo Tube was with you. Whaddya' think - .10a? If you mean of the .10a grade, I'd say Main Street (Vedauwoo),Honeymoon Chimney (Utah desert), must be one in Yosemite.
Gonna miss you and Christa, Prod. Thanks for the sendoff!
|
|
philo
Trad climber
Somewhere halfway over the rainbow
|
|
Hey Grug, if you coat your chest hair with polyurethane and come it downward before it dries it will act like human velcro. Sorry I won't be there. Get er dun!
|
|
ydpl8s
Trad climber
Santa Monica, California
|
|
Phil, you're just jealous of his manly rug, my wife loves mine.
|
|
scuffy b
climber
dissected alluvial deposits, late Pleistocene
|
|
Hey, Grug, I initially said 'easier' when I meant "harder", then edited.
I can't think of a 5.10 offwidth that I have done which is harder than
L Torpedo Tube.
Left Torpedo Tube is, I think, harder than Maria's (5.10C) Vendetta (5.10b) Steppin Out (5.10d).
Same rating for Mainstreet and Left Torpedo Tube?
|
|
eeyonkee
Trad climber
Golden, CO
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 5, 2011 - 01:57pm PT
|
Main Street is 5.10a, and ...hard, almost certainly a sandbag. Left Torpedo Tube isn't .10a. Maybe it was a typo - kind of a big one though, considering the relative prestige of the climb.
Also, for the record, Big Pink is a sandbag at .11b.
-Edit - Thanks for the tip, Philo. And I'm off.
|
|
Phantom X
Trad climber
Honeycomb Hideout
|
|
This thread has left me completely exausted but it will all be worth it when you succeed in your endeavor (means when you climb Lucille, the one at Vedauwoo). I would like to thank CMac for believing in me and not pulling the plug during the excruciating parts. It wouldn't kill you to wish Grug well on what has single handedly saved your website from bankruptcy. Make sure you bring your pillow Grug and get a good nights sleep or you don't stand a chance in hell. I await your telegram, good luck, have a great time!
|
|
Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
|
|
Site 12 you deadbeats...
|
|
Prod
Trad climber
|
|
News? Update?
Prod.
|
|
Crimpergirl
Sport climber
Boulder, Colorado!
|
|
Go crush Grug! Have fun everyone. I look forward to the photos!
|
|
philo
Trad climber
Somewhere halfway over the rainbow
|
|
Particularly if the Stout Silverback took any of my Sage advice.
|
|
Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
|
|
Grug is currently experiencing the best of the blues
|
|
SteveW
Trad climber
The state of confusion
|
|
As I posted on the HH thread, you lucky folks at Lucillefest, check the
sky tonight--major solar disturbances, might lead to the northern lights!!!!
Go Greg, GO!!!!
|
|
Prod
Trad climber
|
|
Well?
|
|
Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
|
|
Well?
|
|
zip
Trad climber
pacific beach, ca
|
|
someone owe me $ ?
|
|
Brandon-
climber
The Granite State.
|
|
I, for one, would like to hear how it went down.
|
|
eeyonkee
Trad climber
Golden, CO
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 8, 2011 - 12:28am PT
|
Let's just say that next time I'm bringing two pillows. I was in the ballpark, but couldn't pull it off. Mike Friedrichs (Jaybro's original belayer) belayed me while Jaybro took pictures from the peanut gallery. Other members of the peanut gallery were Gal, Em, Goatboy, this dude named Bill who had the gallery in stitches nearly the whole time I was up there, Sishoo, and Elizabeth. The vibes couldn't have been better.
Lucille is definitely a lesson in chicken wings. The closest thing that I've done to something like this is Big Grunt at Mt Woodson. What makes Lucille so much harder is it flares outward. It requires being essentially horizontal for several moves. I ran out of gas whilst on my way to getting back to vertical.
Fun and memorable weekend. Mike and Jaybro were gracious and helpful. Pictures will be following, I'm sure.
|
|
scaredycat
Trad climber
Berkeley,CA
|
|
good on'ya for trying, win, lose, or draw.
I'm honored to lurk here through the process.
|
|
philo
Trad climber
Somewhere halfway over the rainbow
|
|
Good on ya Grug for the sincere effort. Clearly you didn't heed my advise on the skin toughening H2O2 hot tub, urethaned chest hair and naked ascent. Maybe next time. Cheers.
|
|
Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
|
|
Hoh man! I thought he had it! It was so cool to watch. We were with him! Shanti was cheerleading via the Internet from the Bering sea, live!
So much positive energy! He was there! I swear!
Photos to follow!
|
|
SteveW
Trad climber
The state of confusion
|
|
Greg--AWESOME effort. You're sure to get it next time!
|
|
philo
Trad climber
Somewhere halfway over the rainbow
|
|
Shanti was cheerleading via the Internet from the Bering sea, live!
Now how cool is that!!!!
|
|
MH2
climber
|
|
In the ballpark? That must account for the way this thread hits it out of the park so many ways.
|
|
Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
|
|
sounds like it was a great time had by all!
congrats to Greg... the road goes ever on...
|
|
Daphne
Trad climber
Mill Valley, CA
|
|
You're sure to get her next time!
|
|
murcy
Gym climber
sanfrancisco
|
|
What?? You mean Jaybro's nemesis is nontrivial? No surprise there, but way to attack it!
|
|
Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
|
|
cool. psyched that you all are having a blast.
be sure to leave some fun there.
just a couple more weeks
|
|
Crimpergirl
Sport climber
Boulder, Colorado!
|
|
Sounds like a awesome event. Congratulations on giving it your all. Send or no send, you are a winner!
|
|
eeyonkee
Trad climber
Golden, CO
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 8, 2011 - 10:31am PT
|
Hey thanks, y'all. This was a truly cool experience. I gotta say, I'm looking forward to seeing the pictures. The vantage from the peanut gallery was really good.
|
|
Brokedownclimber
Trad climber
Douglas, WY
|
|
Sorry I wasn't there to add my cheers onward! Great stuff, anyway!
|
|
Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
|
|
How sore are you this morn, Greg? I'm stiff just from watching! Still climbing though, curry's just went down. Taking em and gal to the warden et al later....
|
|
klk
Trad climber
cali
|
|
sounds like fun.
watching, that is.
|
|
426
climber
☬
|
|
sick; wish I was there; one of these days...big grunt smoked me circa '94, i couldn't barrel roll into it without totally committing over the blacktop...
|
|
426
climber
☬
|
|
1000% moar pix
|
|
426
climber
☬
|
|
teez...mOr!
|
|
Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
|
|
thx gb
|
|
eeyonkee
Trad climber
Golden, CO
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 8, 2011 - 02:44pm PT
|
Had to hit work running today, but Elizabeth sent me 3 pics. Here's one.
|
|
eeyonkee
Trad climber
Golden, CO
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 8, 2011 - 02:48pm PT
|
Here's another. A little blurry. Jaybro probably has some much better ones.
|
|
Crimpergirl
Sport climber
Boulder, Colorado!
|
|
These are awesome photos! Looking forward to more. Thx.
|
|
SteveW
Trad climber
The state of confusion
|
|
Greg
You're still incredible. I wouldn't even try Lucille.
I'm real IMPRESSED!!!!
|
|
ydpl8s
Trad climber
Santa Monica, California
|
|
Awww man, you were there! (obviously, I know not of what I speak) Looks like Lucille let you get to Third Base, maybe she was just shy in front of all the voyeurs.
|
|
Crimpergirl
Sport climber
Boulder, Colorado!
|
|
Seriously - so close! Bet you'd get it on another try... ;)
|
|
eeyonkee
Trad climber
Golden, CO
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 8, 2011 - 04:36pm PT
|
Thanks, Crimpie. I figure I'm going to have to at least double the number of deep knee-bends and jumping jacks in my workout program before a serious second attempt.
As you can see from these pics, your right arm is pretty much always in a palm-down position while your left (out of sight) is doing chicken wings. Didn't do one arm-bar.
Oh, and Jaybro, I'm sore all over - particularly the left shoulder. I had suspected that I may have a torn rotator cuff in the left shoulder (I've already had surgery in the right). I'm about 85% sure, now.
|
|
Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
|
|
Sick testpiece!
Way to go for it while allowing an audience.
Sorry to hear about your left shoulder.
Thanks to all for sharing the photos.
|
|
Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
|
|
Photos when I get to town.
Currys & beefeater so far today....
|
|
klk
Trad climber
cali
|
|
boodles is a lot better than beefeaters. but i do appreciate a good gimlet in summertime.
never tried currys.
|
|
Brokedownclimber
Trad climber
Douglas, WY
|
|
Greg-
I'll buy you a tall cold one at the next HH! I'm sure you'll use your right arm to lift it.
|
|
Phantom X
Trad climber
Honeycomb Hideout
|
|
Hot Dog Grug, way to go! I thought the H2O2 Hot tub was a no brainer, but nooo, you had to do it your way and it seems well you did, maybe. Did you guys make smores?
|
|
eeyonkee
Trad climber
Golden, CO
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 8, 2011 - 09:11pm PT
|
You're on, Brokedown,and thanks, Steve.
Sorry, for bumping my own thread, but the whole experience (plus the three beers I just had) has got me thinking about wide crack ratings. As I understand it, Lucille was originally rated 5.13(a) (by Jaybro and Mike), but is considered possibly as easy as 5.12b (following Craig Luebben's flash?). Mountain Project has it at 5.12d, the just-older Vedauwoo guidebook calls it 5.12b, while the new guidebook, which seems to downgrade everything else, has it back at 5.13a/b. That's a relatively big spread. What's going on?
Personally, I think some of this stuff is like comparing apples with oranges. Lucille is a true squeeze chimney - not an offwidth sensu stricto (I always wanted to use that term in a sentence (hopefully I got it right)). Although I didn't quite finish it, I'm pretty sure that the first armbar you get would be in the 5.9 or 5.10 section at the very top. The way you attack this is completely different than, say, Big Pink or Twilight Zone or any number of "true" offwidths. The techniques are sufficiently different with respect to requirements (a left-side-in armbar actually requires a lot of "pull" from the right arm, whereas a left-side-in squeeze chimney only requires the right arm for stabilization), that I would say you pretty much need separate rating categories for squeeze chimneys and offwidths.
Time to eat...that is all.
|
|
Prod
Trad climber
|
|
what are you eating?
When are you going at it again?
Prod.
|
|
eeyonkee
Trad climber
Golden, CO
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 8, 2011 - 09:28pm PT
|
Wine, so far. That's all I can get from Elizabeth.
I dunno know about another try. This whole experience was so fun and magical, that another try at it would almost seem vulgar.
|
|
Blitzo
Social climber
Earth
|
|
Nice!
|
|
klk
Trad climber
cali
|
|
not like there's a whole lot of comps.
|
|
eeyonkee
Trad climber
Golden, CO
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 8, 2011 - 10:06pm PT
|
Couldn't help but notice that we were in the same position at this point. Craig Luebben
|
|
bringmedeath
climber
la la land
|
|
HAHAHAHAAHA, that is awesome!
|
|
SteveW
Trad climber
The state of confusion
|
|
Greg
The next HH a beer's on me too!!!!
|
|
eeyonkee
Trad climber
Golden, CO
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 8, 2011 - 10:23pm PT
|
As far as that last post of mine. Let's not forget...Craig did it. I didn't.
|
|
WBraun
climber
|
|
Looking at the last photo up thread it looks like you have it in the bag.
|
|
okie
Trad climber
San Leandro, Ca
|
|
You have earned your wine, Sir. I hope it is a fine vintage.
Greatness of human spirit: launching into the improbable, the inconceivable...
|
|
eeyonkee
Trad climber
Golden, CO
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 8, 2011 - 10:34pm PT
|
I both ran out of gas and made a tactical error. The tactical error was giving up my heel-toe for a face hold that I subsequently "missed" on my first try to smear it. I knew right away that I erred and that I was GOING DOWN.
|
|
Wen
climber
Jackson, WY
|
|
We were out of town this weekend, and I couldn't wait to get back to a computer today to get your update! What a great story to follow...you've inspired many no doubt.
|
|
Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
|
|
That mag photo is by Craig of Andy, who told me he (also) failed on the attempt photo-Ed though he got it subsequently.
Nobody has even mentioned Grug bashing his own head in with a # 6, drawing blood and everything!
|
|
WBraun
climber
|
|
Bummer to get shut down that close.
I bet thinner people can get just enough farther inside to gain a slight advantage?
Good effort, you'll be visualizing your errors and doing it .....
|
|
eeyonkee
Trad climber
Golden, CO
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 8, 2011 - 11:22pm PT
|
Yeah, those thinner people...who needs 'em! Appreciate the encouragement, Werner.
|
|
Mimi
climber
|
|
That is so sick. A masterful effort, Greg. Sorry about the shoulder. More chondroitin! Glad you had so much fun.
Very interesting the question you posed about the rating beng far flung. Won't reach a quorom on that thing anytime soon. LOL! Such a nice test piece having such a range for you wide specialists.
|
|
Russ Walling
Gym climber
Poofter's Froth, Wyoming
|
|
Way to give it a go man! Strong effort!
|
|
F10
Trad climber
e350 / Bishop
|
|
Proud effort...
|
|
MH2
climber
|
|
giving up my heel-toe for a face hold that I subsequently "missed" on my first try to smear it
OH NO! Your mind is going.
Particularly good effort for early-onset dementia.
|
|
John Moosie
climber
Beautiful California
|
|
This thread is rated AAA+
|
|
drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
|
|
Good go, champ!
|
|
GDavis
Social climber
SOL CAL
|
|
Damn, dude, you are burly! Way to get after it!
|
|
426
climber
☬
|
|
ountain Project has it at 5.12d, the just-older Vedauwoo guidebook calls it 5.12b, while the new guidebook, which seems to downgrade everything else, has it back at 5.13a. That's a relatively big spread. What's going on?
I never trust Anonymous Cowards (self included), esp those who get the FACTS super mixed up as well as tag ratings on routes they've likely never done.
I remember reading the vintage piece as a young buck by Jaybro then the bad girl laying idle for years until Luebben put the 2nd on it; saw it in Hot Flashes...though, can one say it's truly OS if one has read Jay's article? Being the purist (purest)? sport climber of sorts, even the scraps of beta would negate a true onsight IMO; perhaps there was not a single examination of said piece, though that would be ignoring a brilliant prose of climbing lit fwiw...my precious onsight ruined by the mags:::insert Nelson laugh:::again!
I do find the limited hard wide I've tried (ie flailed) to be more PeRcePtuAllY "size dependent" rather than sequence dependent of face routes-if 2 different sized cragmasters like bart paull and psp are gonna consensus it @ 13, imm it's 13....
in any case awesome effort and +1bump
and moar pix jbro yo
|
|
philo
Trad climber
Somewhere halfway over the rainbow
|
|
though, can one say it's truly OS if one has read Jay's article?
You can read everything written about sex and look at thousands of porn pics before you've had sex
but it is still an on-sight when the time comes.
|
|
426
climber
☬
|
|
Nah, still a flash*...if youre a purest...
*We'll make an exception for greenies; we nearly always du
|
|
Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
|
|
I thought of it, Silver. Don't think there's the market demand ; )
Nah I just have limited electricity / Internet here in vedauwoo. I'll get down to Laramie tomorrow and load up some photos.
|
|
Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
|
|
Pair of hiking shoes left his weekend! Oboze (?) I think they are Elizabeh's? Em and I each thought they belonged to the other.
|
|
Mike Friedrichs
Sport climber
City of Salt
|
|
What you don't see from the pictures is just how far Greg went from the big bro until he placed a big cam. He was looking at some serious air. Pure determination. It was an awesome thing to witness from the belay. Courageous effort! It was an honor sir.
|
|
Brokedownclimber
Trad climber
Douglas, WY
|
|
And all was doing was cutting and baling hay? Sheesh!
Greg--I'm upping the ante to TWO beers, one for the torn rotator cuff or labrum and one for you.
Rodger
|
|
eeyonkee
Trad climber
Golden, CO
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 9, 2011 - 10:55am PT
|
Mike is currently my favorite belayer. He was like a good caddie. I'm very grateful.
Even though I definitely received a bit of beta from both Mike and Jay, for some reaon I put off reading Jaybro's iconic article on Lucille. I'm going to read it tonight.
|
|
Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
|
|
It's hard to maintain beginner's mind.....
|
|
eeyonkee
Trad climber
Golden, CO
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 9, 2011 - 12:09pm PT
|
Those are Elizabeth's boots, Jaybro. I'm so busy at work right now I can't think of a good plan for getting them back. We'll be in touch on this.
|
|
Rick A
climber
Boulder, Colorado
|
|
Impressive effort, Greg. That photo makes me want to puke, imagining what it took to get there.
You'll get it next time.
|
|
Zander
Trad climber
Berkeley
|
|
Great try Greg!
Thanks for taking us along for the ride.
Zander
|
|
Gal
Trad climber
a semi lucid consciousness
|
|
Just thought I'd post about how fantastic it was to see Greg try for Lucille. He did SO good, and was VERY close-one more move or two and he would have been standing upright. It was really cool to watch. And just wanted to say that the crew (peanut gallery) was awesome. So glad I met everyone, what great vibes! And just to mention, the first pitch just to get to Lucille is really tough, so to imagine what it must have felt like to go beyond that, WOW. Totally great effort, and I'm happy I was able to be there and witness it! -Catherine.
|
|
skykilo
Trad climber
Vancouver, BC
|
|
|
Aug 10, 2011 - 12:54am PT
|
Thanks for the awesome thread and nice try, G. I got put in my place on both Pipeline and Wild Turkey at Squamish and you can call me "a big fan." Hope your shoulder heals real well.
|
|
goatboy smellz
climber
Nederland
|
|
|
Aug 10, 2011 - 10:06am PT
|
Mike is currently my favorite belayer.
Francois will be crushed, good thing he's not on ST.
The smear before the fall.
|
|
mooser
Trad climber
seattle
|
|
|
Aug 10, 2011 - 10:13am PT
|
Greg, you're a beast! Send or not, I'm impressed.
|
|
eeyonkee
Trad climber
Golden, CO
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 10, 2011 - 10:25am PT
|
Fair enough, Jammer. I suppose the elephant in the room is the fact that I got as close as I did. I think it says a lot about Jaybro that he was pulling for me, even though success on my part might cloud the picture on the ratings.
Skykilo - Thanks. You're the first person I've heard of who's been on Wild Turkey. I wouldn't even know where to find it.
Thanks, Mooser!
|
|
philo
Trad climber
Somewhere halfway over the rainbow
|
|
|
Aug 10, 2011 - 10:42am PT
|
Eeyonkee, your success would in no way cloud the ratings. You are a beast! If anything your near success reinforces the fierceness of Lucille's reputation. When you are ready you will send.
|
|
SteveW
Trad climber
The state of confusion
|
|
|
Aug 10, 2011 - 12:35pm PT
|
Dern, Greg, that looks like a long way from your protection!!!!
|
|
Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
|
|
|
Aug 10, 2011 - 03:07pm PT
|
Nice Ron!
Jam, the rating was based on a comparison to the Owl roof and Paisano, the only games in town atTthe time.13a is the consensus of people who have led it (including Craig. though he thought differently at first, he did subsequently,tell Pamela and myself that he agreed with the .13a rating) A rating is just a number, get on it and see what you think for yourself (though it sounds like you've already decided ;) )until then it's all hypothetical.
|
|
Elcapinyoazz
Social climber
Joshua Tree
|
|
|
Aug 10, 2011 - 03:43pm PT
|
Might be a good place to put together a list of the folks who've actually sucessfully climbed the route on lead. The ones that come to mind are:
Jay
Craig
Andy
Pamela
Steve
I suspect Justin knows of a few to add.
I recall that Leubben quote about "I've done 5.12s that were harder", but I can think of lots of routes that seem miles harder than others rated several letters harder...sustained pukers vs. boulder problem in the sky rigs.
Pasiano and Owl are both very short affairs and essentially boulder problems a pitch off the deck. They're both only about 7 (Owl) to 10 (Paisano) moves through the biz and more about beta and technical issues than staying power. I'd think it would feel waaaay harder to get up Lucille than either of those, from an effort standpoint.
|
|
eeyonkee
Trad climber
Golden, CO
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 10, 2011 - 03:44pm PT
|
Sort of wish that I'd never brought up the whole ratings thing (another reason to cut back on those beers). I'm more of a comedy guy.
Edit - I will say that I think Vedauwoo ratings are for the most part very stiff. I think Big Pink is definitely 5.12.
|
|
Larry
Trad climber
Bisbee
|
|
|
Aug 10, 2011 - 04:28pm PT
|
>when I compare something like Big Pink or Trip Master Monkey
Back then, Bob would rate his climbs as low as he could without breaking out in laughter when he told someone the rating.
|
|
Mike Friedrichs
Sport climber
City of Salt
|
|
|
Aug 10, 2011 - 04:45pm PT
|
The issue of hand/food size, endurance vs. power, etc are hardly unique to wide cracks. In fact I would argue that a flared squeeze chimney is probably less size dependent than most other sizes of crack climbing. One just has to go deeper when you're smaller.
I've certainly found offwidths in Utah and Colorado to be easier for the grad than at Vedauwoo, where I learned to climb.
When Layne Kopischka was writing one of the early guidebooks to Vedauwoo, Rob Kelman did every 5.8 without doing other grades, then every 5.9 then every 5.10a. He did these when they were at or near the top of his ability. He found that some of the 5.9s were dramatically more difficult than others. Seems an experiment like that is probably as close to objectivity as we're likely to get.
|
|
MH2
climber
|
|
|
Aug 10, 2011 - 06:14pm PT
|
Thank you, skykilo. Could you, here or elsewhere, tell us something about Wild Turkey? I know where it is and how to get to it and look at it every time I go to Squamish, and point out to my partner that no one is on it. I have heard several accounts that call into question the 11a rating. Probably the least-climbed 3 star route around here. Closest I've been was meeting Gord Ross, who took the picture of John Furneaux "on Wild Turkey." That, and noticing from the top that one could lower in and self-belay it.
And Grug has no idea where Wild Turkey is? That advances the senility hypothesis.
(He did the FA).
|
|
426
climber
☬
|
|
|
Aug 11, 2011 - 08:40am PT
|
Hrmpf, from the 'tone' of your post jammer, it would seem that you are/have determined that Luz is "5.12" (whatever its a number eh)...but if one has beef imo it's all theoretical ruminations until you du it and give ite a "personal grade"....on your 8a scorecard
If I have misconstrued; mea culpa...
|
|
eeyonkee
Trad climber
Golden, CO
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 11, 2011 - 09:55am PT
|
MH2, technically I don't think you call it senility if you've always been that way (just ask my climbing partners). I only vaguely remember Wild Turkey. I actually wanted to name it Midnight Movie. I had thought we had originally rated it 5.10c, but there's 1 50/50 chance I'm just remembering wrong, I suppose. I believe it was the only FA I ever did with George Manson, one of the most charismatic people I ever met.
|
|
Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
|
|
|
Aug 12, 2011 - 01:14am PT
|
Wild Turkey is given 5.10d in the 1980 guidebook. Not that you'd necessarily want to rely on it.
|
|
MH2
climber
|
|
|
Aug 12, 2011 - 03:40am PT
|
"technically I don't think you call it senility if you've always been that way"
Yes, sensu stricto.*
Wow! That George Manson? Il miglior fabbro? I came across fragments of his charisma in Ontario.
And yes, again. Both your guide, Anders, and Kevin's earlier one rate Wild Turkey 10d.
* first known use in 1902 - what kind of Latin is that?
|
|
goatboy smellz
climber
Nederland
|
|
|
Aug 12, 2011 - 09:49am PT
|
I just don't like this kind of BS in my backyard. This is Vedauwoo, not fairywonderland.
We're not splitting atoms here, climbing is a free form sport, very size dependent, especially in cracks. Go and sit up in that cave and it will be obvious to you why there is a little diversity in the grading.
|
|
Elcapinyoazz
Social climber
Joshua Tree
|
|
|
Aug 12, 2011 - 10:46am PT
|
This is Vedauwoo, not fairywonderland
Almost t-shirt slogan worthy, or bumpersticker or something. My first time there it felt like a fairy wonderland...magical. The thin crisp air, brilliant lichen contrasting with the almost pink hued rock, domes amongst the aspens and pines, the rich history of flares and wide cracks.
Damn, now I'm all wound up. Think I'll surf over to expedia and see what a plane ticket will cost me to Laramie.
|
|
scuffy b
climber
dissected alluvial deposits, late Pleistocene
|
|
|
Aug 12, 2011 - 11:38am PT
|
"I just don't like this kind of BS in my backyard."
Do you mean the BS of people having different opinions on the rating of a
climb, or is there some other kind of BS that i can't see?
|
|
em kn0t
Trad climber
isle of wyde
|
|
|
Aug 13, 2011 - 05:24pm PT
|
Think I'll surf over to expedia and see what a plane ticket will cost me to Laramie.
Cheap flight to Denver Int'l then GreenRide shuttle to Laramie (runs 4x a day) is an option that has worked a couple of times for me.
Go for it!
|
|
Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
|
|
|
Aug 13, 2011 - 08:25pm PT
|
Yeah!!
|
|
altieboo
Boulder climber
Livermore, Ca
|
|
|
Oct 19, 2011 - 05:03pm PT
|
BUMP for the sake of a bad ass thread and for later personal reference.
Philo, I will fill you in later as I will be asking you questions until you kick me out of the basement.
Hartouni, I need your psyche...
eeyonkee, you looking for a partner for a few things. Or perhaps someone to laugh at?
|
|
philo
Trad climber
Somewhere halfway over the rainbow
|
|
|
Oct 19, 2011 - 05:09pm PT
|
Uh Oh!!! sounds like CLIMBING mag has tasked the youth with exploring the joys of the wide!!!!!!
Yee Haah welcome to Collie a Rad oh!
|
|
altieboo
Boulder climber
Livermore, Ca
|
|
|
Oct 19, 2011 - 05:11pm PT
|
Something along those lines..
|
|
philo
Trad climber
Somewhere halfway over the rainbow
|
|
|
Oct 19, 2011 - 05:12pm PT
|
Get back to work and earn what they aren't paying you Schwagboy. lol
|
|
Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
|
|
|
Oct 19, 2011 - 10:35pm PT
|
eeyonkee is probably recovering... and won't be back on the project for a while!
|
|
Prod
Trad climber
|
|
|
Oct 19, 2011 - 10:49pm PT
|
eeyonkee is probably recovering... and won't be back on the project for a while!
I hear he's been watching sports on TV and drinking beer in pink fizzy slippers... and that 5#'s he lost... I think he found it.
Prod.
|
|
eeyonkee
Trad climber
Golden, CO
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 23, 2011 - 09:26am PT
|
Just had dinner with Prod last night - I hadn't seen the recent posts. altieboo - I'd certainly climb with you, but I'm out for a while. I really did exacerbate an existing rotator cuff tear during Lucille, and require surgery. The MRI showed a complete tear. Chicken wings!
Hope to be back climbing by Spring.
|
|
Crimpergirl
Sport climber
Boulder, Colorado!
|
|
|
Oct 23, 2011 - 11:13am PT
|
Keep us updated on your chicken wing surgery. And join us for the HH. We are a table of the walking wounded - but we have fun nonetheless!
|
|
philo
Trad climber
Somewhere halfway over the rainbow
|
|
|
Oct 23, 2011 - 11:30am PT
|
Mmmm Chicken Wings dipped in ranch dressing, Yummmm.
Oh wait, that's not what you were referring to was it?
When are you scheduled for surgery? Good luck and let us know if you need anything.
|
|
SteveW
Trad climber
The state of confusion
|
|
|
Oct 23, 2011 - 11:32am PT
|
Grug--that sucks big time!!!! I hope you heal up soon!
|
|
Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
|
|
|
Oct 23, 2011 - 12:25pm PT
|
Do you have a surgery date Grug?
... I have more routes for you....
and, Altieboo, you really do want to climb with Eeyonkee! He's more fun than a barrel of Monkeys!
|
|
eeyonkee
Trad climber
Golden, CO
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 23, 2011 - 07:02pm PT
|
Hey, thanks for the concern, all. I've been so buried in work I can't take the time for PT just yet. I've already got an hour long one way commute. I'm thinking this upcoming rotator cuff surgery rehab should be easier to navigate through every day life (i.e., drive) compared to the first one I had in 2006, in that; 1) it's my left hand and arm I can't use and, 2) I don't drive a stick shift anymore.
|
|
Brunosafari
Boulder climber
OR
|
|
|
Oct 23, 2011 - 08:08pm PT
|
ya wanna go surfin'?
|
|
Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
|
|
|
Dec 21, 2011 - 11:23pm PT
|
surf on over to vedauwoo. I heard Lucille just got it's first winter onsight free solo
hmm appears that beta was premature....
|
|
SteveW
Trad climber
The state of confusion
|
|
|
Dec 21, 2011 - 11:35pm PT
|
In the snow?
|
|
dogtown
Trad climber
Cheyenne, Wyoming and Marshall Islands atoll.
|
|
|
Dec 21, 2011 - 11:49pm PT
|
Hey, Jay
Onsite, Wow! Impressive. This would have been a good winter for it, not much snow this year so far but it has been a bitter wet cold the past week and snowing now.
Merry Christmas.
|
|
Sonic
Trad climber
Roaming the South, Merica
|
|
|
Dec 17, 2012 - 04:36pm PT
|
Winter Wide Bump
|
|
Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
|
|
|
May 15, 2015 - 01:51pm PT
|
Bump
|
|
Phantom X
Trad climber
Honeycomb Hideout
|
|
|
May 15, 2015 - 02:41pm PT
|
Grug and Jaybro, sorry for your loss.
|
|
| Messages 1 - 442 of total 442 in this topic |
|
SuperTopo on the Web
|
Let us know!