Road to Lucille

Search
Go

Discussion Topic

Return to Forum List
Post a Reply
Messages 1 - 463 of total 463 in this topic
eeyonkee

Trad climber
Golden, CO
Topic Author's Original Post - Feb 14, 2011 - 08:02pm PT
The one in Vedauwoo...the one that Jaybro did the FA of. Now,(Jaybro) say you were me, mostly over the hill but, um, willing, and you wanted to get ready for a flash ascent of Lucille. Here's my list of things to do. Am I missing anything?
 Start doing something to get in shape, like situps or pushups or something.
 Stop drinking so damn much beer.
 Visualization, visualization, visualization!
 Ask yourself, what would Bob Scarpelli do?
 Do the three offwidths in the Boulder area for practice

scuffy b

climber
Three feet higher
Feb 14, 2011 - 08:03pm PT
You already started thinking about the first two steps, right?
eeyonkee

Trad climber
Golden, CO
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 14, 2011 - 08:07pm PT
Current plan? Start with 3 and 4, and then ease into the other stuff.
MisterE

Social climber
MEEP MEEP
Feb 14, 2011 - 08:09pm PT
Inversion boots are a good way to train, according to some 5.12 OW climber here on the board...

A great goal, Grug!
scuffy b

climber
Three feet higher
Feb 14, 2011 - 08:13pm PT
Ten or fifteen laps of Greg's Crack within an hour might help.
Up and down the first steep part of Mother Superior from the lie-down
start...
Brokedownclimber

Trad climber
Douglas, WY
Feb 14, 2011 - 08:18pm PT
Need a belayer? Need a photographer? I'm available.
eeyonkee

Trad climber
Golden, CO
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 14, 2011 - 08:20pm PT
Scuffy, you make me see that I wasn't explicit enough. I mean things that I can do that are relatively EASY! Like sleeping an extra two hours a day or eating some ginkgobilobanuts.
Peter Haan

Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
Feb 14, 2011 - 08:27pm PT
Don't we need photos, Pilgrims, to go up any higher here?
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Feb 14, 2011 - 08:29pm PT
Most roads lead away from Lucille.
steelmnkey

climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
Feb 14, 2011 - 08:29pm PT
I didn't even know ginkobilobas had nuts!
scuffy b

climber
Three feet higher
Feb 14, 2011 - 08:31pm PT
I can't remember why you want to eat those ginkobiloba nuts?
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Feb 14, 2011 - 08:32pm PT
If inverted, Bob Scarpelli would fall on his head if he were in your shoes, Greg. He's like a foot shorter than you. He wears the same sportiva sizes I do.

Someone else here asked me about this recently, and what I told him will work for you. Since you guys are over six feet, Lucille is unlikely to be an inversion problem for you. I didn't invert the three times I've done it. General fitness, especially core fitness, is key. The ability to not puke during bursts of anaerobic horizontal (Bruegel) chickenwinging in between aerobic tunneling at almost max V02 at 8,000' worked for me.
I'd do as many of the harder OW's at vedauwoo first; Squat (for the pivot) Muscle and fitness, New maps of hell, short but wide, right tube etc. As many laps on Jay's solo (Bob's name) as you can.
When i finally got it, though I was living in Tempe at essentially sea level, I'd been backpacking in the Bighorns for a week followed by three weeks in Vedauwoo, never getting lower than Laramie, 7200.' I was jogging and mountain biking some, then, but it was before I got seriously into running.
I drank beer then but was pretty skinny.


Now I'm going to strap on my inversion cuffs and weight vest, to train for other offwidth projects...

"mostly over the hill but, um, willing," - in some ways I AM you, Grug!
scuffy b

climber
Three feet higher
Feb 14, 2011 - 08:33pm PT
Also, I think, Grug, for Lucille you don't want to ask what Scarpelli
would do...he'd climb something else instead
eeyonkee

Trad climber
Golden, CO
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 14, 2011 - 08:35pm PT
Hey. I'M the one asking for advice here, aren't I? What the frick do I know about ginko products? IF I KNEW, I WOULDN'T be asking now WOULD I? Something that you can ingest that will help out your offwidth climbing. That's what we're talking about here.
Prod

Trad climber
Feb 14, 2011 - 08:37pm PT
Aw man, that is right up your alley! I hope I can make it that weekend.

Prod.
scuffy b

climber
Three feet higher
Feb 14, 2011 - 08:37pm PT
I see, it's an ingestion problem. I thought...
Brokedownclimber

Trad climber
Douglas, WY
Feb 14, 2011 - 08:37pm PT
We prolly need another Boulder HH to assist you in procrastination?
eeyonkee

Trad climber
Golden, CO
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 14, 2011 - 08:44pm PT
Hmmmm. So no video game or something I can play, huh? I had a feeling this might the case - you know, that it would be hard. Oh well, thanks for the advice, Jaybro. I'm already seeing myself wake up tomorrow morning and immediately doing pushups or eating oatmeal or something. I'll keep you posted.
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Feb 14, 2011 - 08:51pm PT
You can do it Grug! and so can that other tall guy who asked me about it recently. he should chime in or risk 'outing' hee hee.

Keep your eyes on the prize!
Credit: Jaybro
scuffy b

climber
Three feet higher
Feb 14, 2011 - 08:53pm PT
No video games for you.

"Yeah, woulda fired that little roof thing no problem,
except for my gamy thumb I got saving the Free World on my Gameboy..."
bluering

Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
Feb 14, 2011 - 08:55pm PT
Useless thread w/o pics....
eeyonkee

Trad climber
Golden, CO
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 14, 2011 - 08:56pm PT
It'd be great if somehow I could work in my new-found love of watching zombie movies with getting in shape for this endeavor.
murcy

climber
sanfrancisco
Feb 14, 2011 - 08:57pm PT
Looks like there might be an easier way up. No offense, Jay.
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Feb 14, 2011 - 09:02pm PT
"I've got a gamey leg" Peter Sellers, Dr Strangelove

Up to the minute training self portrais;
The vest,
Credit: Jaybro

The inverted view;
Credit: Jaybro
of toe fungus!
nutjob

Gym climber
Berkeley, CA
Feb 14, 2011 - 09:08pm PT
Grug, if you get a really old (read: "heavy") fold-out couch, and then try to tunnel into the mattress part and out the bottom back end while watching a zombie movie, it might work.

Brings a whole new meaning to Off The Couch.
SteveW

Trad climber
The state of confusion
Feb 14, 2011 - 09:10pm PT

Grug

Just head up I-25 north 'till you get to Cheyenne.
Turn west on I-80 and drive a bit until you see the
sign. You're there.


hee hee hee. . . .
Phantom X

Trad climber
Honeycomb Hideout
Feb 14, 2011 - 09:29pm PT
Grug this may come as a shock to you but I did a little snooping around and Jaybro is NOT Dr. Joyce Brothers!!! Lucille is a good nick name for a gruff harry man. Good luck, hope I have helped.
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Feb 14, 2011 - 09:34pm PT
Sez you. Ever see a picture of us together?
Phantom X

Trad climber
Honeycomb Hideout
Feb 14, 2011 - 09:41pm PT
Now I'm embarressed. Say Doctor J I've been meaning to say way to go on putting up Lucille.
Phantom X

Trad climber
Honeycomb Hideout
Feb 14, 2011 - 09:45pm PT
Kenny Rodgers maybe could pass for a Lucille.
Hankster

Social climber
Texas/Boulder
Feb 14, 2011 - 09:49pm PT
Grab me on the way through Boulder, I'll get on that thing anytime w/ya'. Yes, I have plenty of large cams.

caylor
Crimpergirl

Sport climber
Boulder, Colorado!
Feb 14, 2011 - 09:50pm PT
When is the planned attack? It'd be fun to make an event of it. The Grugfest has a nice ring to it!
Brian

climber
California
Feb 14, 2011 - 09:52pm PT
Donini said

Most roads lead away from Lucille.

Classic!
em kn0t

Trad climber
isle of wyde
Feb 14, 2011 - 10:00pm PT
good grief jaybro, you look WAY honed in that vest.
though you could use a better art director for your next photo shoot...

Jaybro = Invertatus inspirationatus lucillius
Fritz

Trad climber
Choss Creek, ID
Feb 14, 2011 - 10:31pm PT
eeyonkee: After you deal with Lucille, wander west to City of Rocks.

Donini rumour is: "Old-fart/Baby-back rib fest there, in early June."

You can heal, and revisit your FA's.

Seriously!

Talk to Donini for dates.

Fritz!

Mungeclimber

Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
Feb 15, 2011 - 12:08am PT
I just wanna go to VEED!


what do we need to prep to think about going to Veed?




I mean look at the color on that rock!!!


Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Feb 15, 2011 - 01:23am PT
From the hoodoo stones to the iridescent yellow/green lichen on pink granite. It is a truly surreal place,
Credit: Jaybro
Credit: Jaybro
No butts about it,
Credit: Jaybro

Vedauwoo Boogaloo 2011,
The Grugfest!
em kn0t

Trad climber
isle of wyde
Feb 15, 2011 - 01:45am PT
what do we need to prep to think about going to Veed?
Munginator: build up those butt callouses, stock up on vitamin I and watch for cheap flights to Denver.
Grugfest 2011 OhhhYESSSSSSSSSSS!!
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
Feb 15, 2011 - 01:47am PT
now we're scheming!

July or Aug?
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Feb 15, 2011 - 04:22am PT
Original article, more photos, ascent list:
http://dev.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=111369
eeyonkee

Trad climber
Golden, CO
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 15, 2011 - 07:55am PT
Although Grugfest IS a cool name, after waking up, I'm thinking I should have titled this thread the Road to Zanzibar, since I'm probably more likely to get to Zanzibar than to get my ass up Lucille. Still, I'm gonna give it a try this year. Hankster, I'll give you a yell. Getting someone to try it with you is half the battle since I don't believe in employing a fellow climber merely as a belayer.

Now I ask myself, what's the worst thing that could happen? Right away this one comes to mind... not being able to climb the .10b sandbag first pitch, Best of the Blues. Oh well, my oatmeal's ready now.
426

climber
Feb 15, 2011 - 08:03am PT
Good thread, I'm on a detour through the birth simulator when it dries up....
mooser

Trad climber
seattle
Feb 15, 2011 - 09:48am PT
Yer gonna need a whole set of Pneuma-Nuts(TM) on that thing, Greg.
MH2

climber
Feb 15, 2011 - 12:57pm PT
An interesting approach, eeyonkee. I checked the visualization/road thing for you and the tech may not be there quite yet.



Mike Friedrichs

Sport climber
City of Salt
Feb 15, 2011 - 01:36pm PT
Another thing I remember about Lucille is how sharp the crimps are and how hard you have to pull on them to get launched off the ledge. It would be good to have some thick skin on your pads. We had a big bro and a couple of kind of sketchy yates cams. You will have better pro for sure.

What Jay had was vision and determination. That's ultimately what will get you through. Oh - and a good belayer too.

Looks like I'm going to be on injured reserve all summer. Maybe I'll have to attend grugfest and lead the cheers. It is a beautiful place to be. you should definitely go for it.
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Feb 15, 2011 - 01:54pm PT
Mike is, the best belayer in the business.
Credit: Mr E

Kick ass climber, too!
eeyonkee

Trad climber
Golden, CO
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 15, 2011 - 02:27pm PT
Thanks for the analysis, MH2.

So, vision and determination, eh? Closest thing I got is fear of failure and that chart that MH2 came up with. Still, it's something. Just re-read Jaybro's account. Quite a bit of beta, really.

BTW, I've seen Mike climb and belay. Most excellent on both counts.
Tony Bird

climber
Northridge, CA
Feb 15, 2011 - 02:46pm PT
the road to lucille is named pamela. if you buy 100 cases of sierra climbing salve, you can get there from here.
Karla

climber
Colorado
Feb 15, 2011 - 03:26pm PT
Hey eeyonkee, we make many pigrimages there over the late spring to early fall. I have your better 1/2's email and will reach out to see if you'd like to connect with us. Many in our group suffer from the OW addiction(Lucille included), so you'd be in good company:)
eeyonkee

Trad climber
Golden, CO
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 15, 2011 - 03:55pm PT
Now we're talking! Forget GrugFest. How about just LucilleFest - 2011? In honor of this legendary climb. Date currently uncertain. All are welcome.
Captain...or Skully

climber
The Seas of Stone.
Feb 15, 2011 - 04:04pm PT
That sounds like an Event!
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Feb 15, 2011 - 09:11pm PT
I'm in!
Prod

Trad climber
Feb 15, 2011 - 09:28pm PT
I'm in. I'll give her a go. I have some big cams but no big bros, 2#6's, 1 #5, 1 old #4.

Prod.
Hankster

Social climber
Texas/Boulder
Feb 15, 2011 - 10:07pm PT
Prod and I will carpool!

caylor
SteveW

Trad climber
The state of confusion
Feb 15, 2011 - 10:09pm PT

I wanna BE THERE!!!!
mike m

Trad climber
black hills
Feb 15, 2011 - 10:25pm PT
Jay could you ever see anyone soloing it? It is 1900 feet shorter than Half Dome and about the same grade.
Prod

Trad climber
Feb 15, 2011 - 10:31pm PT
Hell yeah Caylor,

We'll load the wives, dogs, gear, food, grill, solar shower, bikes, etc in the sprinter and still have tons of room.

Remember the last time we were in Vedauwoo together? I puked on route, you and Tarbuster were on top and I was Hurling. You were yelling

"HURL ON DECK.... HURL ON DECK" Laughing your ass off.

Remember the route?

Prod.
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Feb 15, 2011 - 10:39pm PT
Hurley Fowler?


Unlike half dome you might not die instantly if you deck off Lucille.
Hankster

Social climber
Texas/Boulder
Feb 15, 2011 - 10:45pm PT
Silver Salute I believe!
photo not found
Missing photo ID#191172

caylor
Hankster

Social climber
Texas/Boulder
Feb 15, 2011 - 11:05pm PT
Was the last post over the line? I'm trying to dial myself in.

caylor
Prod

Trad climber
Feb 15, 2011 - 11:37pm PT
1st, I think it was Flying Butress?

2nd, that post was no where near over the line.

Prod.
Crimpergirl

Sport climber
Boulder, Colorado!
Feb 16, 2011 - 03:28pm PT
Any proposed dates on Grugfest (aka Lucillefest). Still haven't made it to Veed. The off widths skeer me!
Prod

Trad climber
Feb 16, 2011 - 03:29pm PT
Yo Eyonkee,

Lets get a timeline on this bad boy Lucillefest! I hear all the cool guys will be there.

Prod.
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Feb 16, 2011 - 03:31pm PT
I tend to favor first two weeks in August. July is good too.
it's nice to be in vedawuoo when it's too hot everywhere else, (except the high country.)
Brokedownclimber

Trad climber
Douglas, WY
Feb 16, 2011 - 04:07pm PT
Crimpie-

There's a lot more than OWs there! Trust me on that! Then there's some skeery face climbing! Water Streak II, at 5.9+ and add the Kopischka finish at 10a. Not that bad. There's always "5.11 Crack" which has a lot of face/friction at 5.9+. From the anchor, can toprope Gunga Din at 11a.

Fun!!

Rodger
eeyonkee

Trad climber
Golden, CO
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 16, 2011 - 04:14pm PT
I'm agreeing with Jaybro on the approximate time line. (This will give me time to do like a million jumping jacks between now and then).

Yeah, that Flying Butress is pretty stiff for 5.10b, isn't it Prod? Frankly, I'd have to call that one of the hardest 5.10b routes that I've ever been on.
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Feb 16, 2011 - 04:47pm PT
You mean because it overhangs more than it rises? That it takes virtually every technique from face, lieback, thin flaring jams, to squeeze?

No, that can't be it....

A story,

Once upon a time Flying buttress, upper slot left, and grand traverse were all rated 5.10+ to 'I and me droogs,' (Scarpelli, Kim Weaver, Bill Roberts (RIP)), impossible. Then we went to the valley one spring, after doing pullups all winter long (and it was a long winter) on what would come to be known as "the .10c offwidth tour". When we got back we were climbing well and found we could do all those climbs. So, not wanting to be full of ourselves, or guilty of grade inflation, we decided they must all be .10b. That's where those ratings came from. At the time, Horn's Mother and Boardwalk were rated .10+, left tube .10a, cupcake 5.9+. I think it was that same summer that Big Pink/Short but Wide, was done and rated .11b.
ground_up

Trad climber
mt. hood /baja
Feb 16, 2011 - 05:42pm PT
beer is the only thing that ever helped my ow climbing
gonzo chemist

climber
Crane Jackson's Fountain St. Theater
Feb 16, 2011 - 07:02pm PT
Makes me feel better that eeyonkee says that Flying Buttress is the hardest 10b he's been on. When I did that about 2-3 years ago, I couldn't believe how burly it felt. Even with two shirts on, I was bleeding from my right shoulderblade from trying to kind of chimney/press up into the roof. That was my first day and first route at Vedauwoo. I haven't made much of an effort to go back there.
Prod

Trad climber
Feb 16, 2011 - 07:02pm PT
Lower Progressive kicked my ass last time I was there. I'd call that a damn hard 5.9.

Prod.
goatboy smellz

climber
Nederland
Feb 16, 2011 - 07:08pm PT
never too late to board the pain train...make you strong like bull, haha woo

http://widefetish.com/simplemachinesforum/index.php?topic=423.0

Hankster

Social climber
Texas/Boulder
Feb 16, 2011 - 07:18pm PT
We obviously NEED to do THIS!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=unkIVvjZc9Y

caylor
Mike Friedrichs

Sport climber
City of Salt
Feb 16, 2011 - 07:26pm PT
There is a pitch high on hotline or one of those routes across from the Cookie that is the exact mirror image of the Flying Buttress at Vedauwoo. I swear. I think it is rated .10d.
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Feb 16, 2011 - 07:41pm PT
Yeah near the end of hotline .10d. Wheels hated it!
eeyonkee

Trad climber
Golden, CO
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 17, 2011 - 08:51pm PT
Ok, so I probably shouldn't bump this...but... A couple of things I gotta get off of my chest (located somewhere underneath a grey tangled mass of fibrous-like stuff). Brokedown, didn't mean do not acknowledge your offer to belay me - somehow I missed that post, and I thank you for the offer. PhantomX?...um, good posts - you know, all that Joyce Brothers stuff. Hankster - that video is some funny sh#t! Jaybro and Mike? - Thanks for the encouragement and playing along.

This is about two thirds tongue in cheek and one third a desperate, last-ditch dream of an old climber just pathetic enough to believe in dreams of grandeur.
drljefe

climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
Feb 17, 2011 - 09:04pm PT
Listen to the Grateful Dead.
Lots and lots of Grateful Dead.

And definitely go shirtless- that silver sweater should act like velcro on the crystals.

Phantom X

Trad climber
Honeycomb Hideout
Feb 17, 2011 - 09:29pm PT
Grug, the wife says your a chump and will never make it.
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Feb 17, 2011 - 09:54pm PT
That mat will hook right into the lichens up there!

Though drljefe has something, I wore a Skeletal reality shirt under a rugby on the first ascent...
Hankster

Social climber
Texas/Boulder
Feb 17, 2011 - 10:09pm PT
photo not found
Missing photo ID#191539

caylor
goatboy smellz

climber
Nederland
Feb 17, 2011 - 10:24pm PT

Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Feb 17, 2011 - 11:31pm PT
Is that the cover of Climbing #239?
Mike Friedrichs

Sport climber
City of Salt
Feb 17, 2011 - 11:41pm PT
With all this positive energy -- I know you can do it!
eeyonkee

Trad climber
Golden, CO
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 18, 2011 - 12:04am PT
Back to business. Realistically, this is all I've going for me up til now.

1. Fear of failure - by far my strongest position, and possibly my "ace in the hole".
2. That diagram or whatever that MH2 came up with a few posts back. I don't understand it, but it lends a certain "scientific, I-know-what-I'm-talking-about sensibility" to my quest.
3. Jaybro's pulling for me. Never underestimate the "soft" stuff.
4. Planning on working out like crazy (remains to be grounded).
5. Giving up Pralines and Cream ice cream.
6. Only drink beer in the company of others.
7. Floss.
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Feb 18, 2011 - 12:22am PT
You're so 'there'!
Hankster

Social climber
Texas/Boulder
Feb 18, 2011 - 12:25am PT
High top climbing boots
Duct tape
2 chalkbags(1 for each side)
Vicodin

What else am I forgetting?

caylor
426

climber
Feb 18, 2011 - 08:19am PT
gear?
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Feb 18, 2011 - 12:29pm PT
Friday morning, inspiration for Grug, Bump!
Credit: Jaybro
MH2

climber
Feb 18, 2011 - 06:06pm PT
"That diagram or whatever"


Copyright lawyers may gnaw me bloodier than an OW but I should mention that the diagram comes from the Visual Thesaurus. Seemed like a way to find a path through a thicket of words although the concepts do not connect. Yet. Expecting great things from you, eeyonkee. I think you can do it but if you pay me good money I will say you can't, for the motivational effect.
Brokedownclimber

Trad climber
Douglas, WY
Feb 18, 2011 - 06:45pm PT
Grug,

My offer is still good; all I require is BEER.
Prod

Trad climber
Feb 18, 2011 - 08:00pm PT
I've had beers with Brokendown. That might cost you a bit.

Tuesday night training session at the spot?

Prod.
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Feb 21, 2011 - 02:45pm PT
Hey Grug,
remember, the journey of a thousand shuffles starts with the first heel toe

hoipolloi

climber
A friends backyard with the neighbors wifi
Feb 21, 2011 - 02:56pm PT
who has video of it getting done?

I want to to see sports action.
Gal

Trad climber
a semi lucid consciousness
Feb 21, 2011 - 03:18pm PT
I'm gonna be in Vedauwoo around this time-I hope there is a "grugfest"... It'd be cool to meet some of you.

Eeyonkee, I like how you re-prioritized your list, and I particularly like the fact that number 6 is now in its current position, rather than 2!!! You really have a lot going for you here-I see success in your future! :)

Elcapinyoazz

Social climber
Joshua Tree
Feb 21, 2011 - 05:15pm PT
I'm a start training tomorrow...9000 inverted situps, and a steady diet of hate-metal, punk, and polka (suffering through the polka will make 5.hard wide cracks seem like a Tahitian vacation).

WBraun

climber
Feb 21, 2011 - 05:22pm PT
No ^^^

One should work on quieting the mind.

Work on breath control.

Slowing down those two will save energy for the strenuous off-width discipline.

Most people try to muscle it (the mind and muscles).

It takes coordination with your whole being not just muscles.

Good breath control is superior .....
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Feb 21, 2011 - 08:28pm PT
I meditated in the cave for a good hour before I did it the first time.
eeyonkee

Trad climber
Golden, CO
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 22, 2011 - 09:52am PT
That picture on the cover of Climbing really is an inspiring one, Jaybro(the closeup shuffle picture a little less so). I've continued to try to "optimize" my training. Forget all things related to inversion, Elcapinyoaz, cause I'm not going that way (of course, you can train how the hell you want). As far as moving the beer drinking thing to number 6. it might as well be 86 for all I've been adhering to it. I think I need something eletrical to keep me in line on this one.

I like Werner's advice on this. In fact, working in a little time to hang out with some Shaolin monks for a while probably couldn't hurt my chances.

goatboy smellz

climber
Nederland
Feb 22, 2011 - 10:08am PT
sounds like you need a little Buddha Bar.







Elcapinyoazz

Social climber
Joshua Tree
Feb 22, 2011 - 11:30am PT
Ask Su what to do...he onsighted the rig.
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Feb 22, 2011 - 12:45pm PT
Su who?

Pamela and (sorta) Craig onsighted it as well.
Elcapinyoazz

Social climber
Joshua Tree
Feb 22, 2011 - 01:15pm PT
Steve Su.



Photo by Bart Paull.
eeyonkee

Trad climber
Golden, CO
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 22, 2011 - 01:41pm PT
Nice pic!
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Feb 22, 2011 - 02:29pm PT
Evokes memories and feelings.
SteveW

Trad climber
The state of confusion
Feb 27, 2011 - 03:52pm PT
Bump for Grug!!!
Hankster

Social climber
Texas/Boulder
Feb 27, 2011 - 07:07pm PT
Been firing all the 12's on the lead cave at the BRC and doing crunches till my stomach makes funny noises:O This will be super fun!!!!

caylor
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Feb 27, 2011 - 11:44pm PT
I've been avoiding looking at this thread... still going to be a while though I probably survived today's PGSF trip... and even got in some OW rigs there...

hand, fist, ok...
wider, just will happen on its own sweet time...

but if there is a date for the Grugfest, write it down here! I'm game on a trip to Wy even if I have to take the position of an Eldo Prancer (and that's not gonna be pretty).
goatboy smellz

climber
Nederland
Feb 28, 2011 - 11:21am PT
I think you will fit right in Ed, a true natural talent.


Jaybro photo

eeyonkee

Trad climber
Golden, CO
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 28, 2011 - 06:03pm PT
Mighty impressive, Hankster. Me, I'm growing a mustache and haven't any Cap'n Crunch or Count Chocula for breakfast since I began my "harden the f#ck up training". Oh, yes...this will be fun.
dickcilley

Social climber
Wisteria Ln.
Feb 28, 2011 - 07:11pm PT
I'll be there....But then again no. It rains every time you guys plan one of these things.
SteveW

Trad climber
The state of confusion
Feb 28, 2011 - 07:15pm PT

Dick
We'll make sure it doesn't rain.
Be there!!!!
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Feb 28, 2011 - 07:34pm PT
Try again Dick, it rained once! They only get 20 inches of rain there a year.
Brokedownclimber

Trad climber
Douglas, WY
Feb 28, 2011 - 08:02pm PT
Grug-

My Black Diamond belay device is at your disposal--I'll bring my OWN beer. Prod-You can help drink it!
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Feb 28, 2011 - 08:04pm PT
It'll stay cold in that belay cave!
goatboy smellz

climber
Nederland
Feb 28, 2011 - 08:38pm PT
So when do you guys think you can make it out this year?
Same as before, first two weeks in August...?
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Feb 28, 2011 - 08:53pm PT
That's what I was thinking, I may have a school to go to on around the 24th....
Melissa

Gym climber
berkeley, ca
Mar 1, 2011 - 02:03am PT
Would someone please 'spain to me the story behind the picture of Ed and the jazzersize girls?
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Mar 1, 2011 - 02:10am PT
There was a vertical dance performance put on by the UW dance dept when we were there in '09. There are a bunch of funny pictures of us climbing around the performers when they were up on the face dangling Bandaloop-like, posted in the '09 Boogaloo thread. There's also a fetish thread about it as I recall.


http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/940673/Vedauwoo-Boogaloo-09-TR-lots-of-photos
Phantom X

Trad climber
Honeycomb Hideout
Mar 7, 2011 - 11:35pm PT
Grug, because of this thread this website is completely falling apart, it reads like kakadoodoo on the Netscape! There are no new updates nor any new old updates or any new newness, no reader rants or other good stuff! What's going on???
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Mar 8, 2011 - 12:55am PT
i heard that he's doing deep knee bends in the closet late at night so no one will know.
goatboy smellz

climber
Nederland
Mar 9, 2011 - 10:28am PT
Maybe Zuzana can help out with some training.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Oitfz6P0g2A&feature=relmfu
eeyonkee

Trad climber
Golden, CO
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 9, 2011 - 10:51am PT
PhantomX: I guess I just don't have much to say. I'm exersizing at least an hour a day. Jaybro's closer than he might think. I do a lot of squats as part of an exercize program at work. I'm down to 180 with maybe 8 pounds to go. I go to the climbing gym two or three times a week (a first for me). I still drink too much beer. Going desert climbing this weekend.
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Mar 9, 2011 - 10:52am PT
Go Grug go!

Gonna be in the desert at all in April?
eeyonkee

Trad climber
Golden, CO
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 9, 2011 - 11:44am PT
Thanks J. I'll almost certainly do a desert trip in April. Let me know when you're going.
Phantom X

Trad climber
Honeycomb Hideout
Mar 9, 2011 - 12:14pm PT
I probably shouldn't get away with "Netscape".
eeyonkee

Trad climber
Golden, CO
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 14, 2011 - 07:08pm PT
Ever wonder why the Australians do so well in the Olympics with such a small population? I mean, come on, if you take the 2010 population divided by the 2010 (summer) Olympic medal count, Australians do over twice as well as any other country (summary below)

Number of citizens required to win an olympic medal(in 100s of thousands)
Australia 491
Great Britain 1,313
Russia 1,994
Germany 1,995
United States 2,827
China 13,410

Now, while holding this thought, did you ever wonder whether anyone but Austrlians ever eat Vegamite sandwiches?

Now, while holding both of these thoughts at the same time (and this was my big 'eureka' moment), ever wonder if there could be a connection between the two?

Enough said...
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Mar 14, 2011 - 07:44pm PT
Being able to contemplate two conflicting thoughts simultaneously is a sign of an advanced mind.
 Buddhist saying
Phantom X

Trad climber
Honeycomb Hideout
Mar 15, 2011 - 01:08am PT
All of the Australian medals are for eating vile foods.
Mighty Hiker

climber
Vancouver, B.C.
Mar 15, 2011 - 01:28am PT
Medal winners by country at last year's winter Olympics (the last few days of medals not included):

1. Norway 20 (= one medal/243,000 citizens)
2. Canada 17 (= one medal/2,001,000 citizens)
3. Germany 26 (= one medal/3,145,000 citizens)
4. Russia 15 (= one medal/9,462,000 citizens)
5. USA 32 (= one medal/9,649,000 citizens)

I'm fairly sure that they don't have vegemite in Norway, so perhaps it's the pickled herring.

And the top 20 cumulative medal-winning countries at the winter Olympics, prior to 2010:
# 1 Norway: 263
# 2 United States: 193
# 3 Austria: 162
# 4 Finland: 142
# 5 Germany: 125
# 6 Sweden: 108
# 7 Switzerland: 103
# 8 Canada: 96
# 9 Italy: 89
# 10 France: 72
# 11 Netherlands: 69
# 12 Russia: 58
# 13 Japan: 31
# 14 United Kingdom: 26
# 15 China: 22
# 16 Korea, South: 20
# 17 Liechtenstein: 9
= 18 Poland: 6
= 18 Hungary: 6
= 20 Czech Republic: 5
Phantom X

Trad climber
Honeycomb Hideout
Mar 15, 2011 - 01:35am PT

Many of the Canadian medals are for lying!
goatboy smellz

climber
Nederland
Mar 15, 2011 - 10:35am PT
Wow MH, you would make a great politician with that firm grasp of statistics & logic you're flashing, maybe check your numbers again and include the summer games. yahknow summertime,eh?

Prod

Trad climber
Mar 20, 2011 - 11:01am PT
Pickled Hering and Vegimite will get you there for sure.

Here is a list of local OW's that Goat turned me on to.

Admission Crack - Upper Infirmary Slabs, South Saint Vrain Canyon
Too Dumb to Sleep In - North Table Mountain, Golden
Bailey's Overhang - Castle Rock, Boulder Canyon
Upstairs - Upper Peanuts, Eldorado Canyon
Electric Fountain Crack - Achean Pronouncement, Flatirons
Twistoflex - Cadillac Crag, Eldorado Canyon
Ruper - Redgarden Wall, Eldorado Canyon
Osiris - The Book, Lumpy Ridge
Tombstone - Tombstone, Lumpy Ridge
Huston Crack - Cob Rock, Boulder Canyon
Free the Ostriches - Long Walk Rock, Boulder Canyon
Wide Pride - North Table Mountain, Golden
The Bowels - The Quarry Wall, Golden
Imperfect Offwidth - Pebble Beach, The Flatirons
Off Width Her Head! - Sunset Wall, Flatirons
Get Smart - Upper Security Risk, Boulder Canyon
Skunk Crack - Castle Rock, Boulder Canyon
Wolf's Tooth - Twin Owls, Lumpy Ridge
Funeral March - West Ridge, Eldorado Canyon
Marry Me Becky - The Quarry Wall, Golden
Grand Giraffe - Redgarden Wall, Eldorado Canyon
Bookmark OW - The Bookmark, Lumpy Ridge
Inside Straight - The Bookmark, Lumpy Ridge
Hot Licks - The Bookend, Lumpy Ridge
Quick Silver - West Ridge, Eldorado Canyon
Hand Crack - The Box, Flatirons
Cunning Stunt - The Maiden, Flatirons
Offwidth Bulge - The Quarry Wall, Golden
Gates of Eden - Bell Buttress, Boulder Canyon
Doin' The Band - Jungle Wall, Big Thompson Canyon
Coffin Crack - Castle Rock, Boulder Canyon
By Gully - Castle Rock, Boulder Canyon
Super Squeeze - The Dome, Boulder Canyon
Crack of Desperation - Vampire Rock, Boulder Canyon
Tiger's Tooth - Twin Owls, Lumpy Ridge
Euclid's Corner - Ridge 3, Flatirons
Initial Hangover - West Ridge, Eldorado Canyon
Turnkorner - Sundance Buttress, Lumpy Ridge
Captain Beyond - Mickey Mouse Wall, Eldorado Mountain
Right Side aka Bong Session - Black Widow Slab, Boulder Canyon
Crack of Dawn - Sleeping Beauty, Boulder Canyon
The Devil's Plaything - Devil's Wings, Flatirons
Bacon Bits - Physical Crag, Eldorado Canyon
Crack a Beer - Bumbling Stock, Clear Creek Canyon
Offwidth - The Monestary, Big Thompson Canyon
Dreams Of Darkness - Sobo Buttress, Eldorado Canyon
Far Out - Ridge 2, Flatirons
Twister - Twin Owls, Lumpy Ridge
The Diving Board - Redgarden Wall, Eldorado Canyon
Simian's Way - Mickey Mouse Wall, Eldorado Mountain
The Umph Slot - The Dome, Boulder Canyon
Crack of Fear - Twin Owls, Lumpy Ridge
Under The Influence - Ridge 4, Flatirons
On-Slot - Continental Crag, Eldorado Canyon
Acrophile - The Acrophile, South Saint Vrain Canyon
Peaches and Cream - Twin Owls, Lumpy Ridge
Haradrim - Upper Infirmary Slabs, South Saint Vrain Canyon
Bacon and Ergs - Physical Crag, Eldorado Canyon
Truth - The Bookend, Lumpy Ridge

Buildering
Blockbuster Offwidth - 28th St & Arapahoe Shopping Center

Honorable Mention
stuff that is wide, but doesn't require OW tech

Athlete's Feat - Castle Rock, Boulder Canyon
Yoni - Achean Pronouncement, Flatirons
Grandmother's Challenge - Redgarden Wall, Eldorado Canyon
Burly Man - North Table Mountain, Golden

Rumors and Such
Animal Magnetism - Closed
??? - Buttonrock Dam
Welcome To The Jungle - Jungle Wall, Big Thompson Canyon
Fin City #3 Offwidth, Lumpy Ridge

Prod.
SteveW

Trad climber
The state of confusion
Mar 20, 2011 - 01:07pm PT

Prod
Knott Kor's Flake on Lumpy? It's a classic!!!!!
eeyonkee

Trad climber
Golden, CO
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 21, 2011 - 09:37am PT
Thanks for that Prod. I guess I should change my opening post to the "threeish" offwidths in Boulder.
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Mar 21, 2011 - 09:48am PT
four if you want to count the black. All those greenie areas are pretty much the same place, right?
goatboy smellz

climber
Nederland
Mar 21, 2011 - 05:11pm PT
I would be up for another go at Bacon and Ergs now that we know what gear to bring to avoid the deck. I suggest a proper outing this time with food, beer and a rousting peanut gallery to help with motivation. Lets keep digging this hole to success!
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Mar 21, 2011 - 05:53pm PT
Bacon and ergs?
goatboy smellz

climber
Nederland
Mar 21, 2011 - 06:06pm PT





Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Mar 21, 2011 - 11:09pm PT
¡Wow!

¿Donde esta?

¿Splatte?
micronut

Trad climber
fresno, ca
Mar 21, 2011 - 11:30pm PT
Lucille.....Just lieback it. By looking at that photo I'd say its just 5.8+....what's all the fuss?
goatboy smellz

climber
Nederland
Mar 22, 2011 - 10:48am PT
That's up on Physical Crag in Eldorado. Not too far in, a good after work challenge, we may even be able to talk Prod into carrying the gear.


eeyonkee

Trad climber
Golden, CO
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 22, 2011 - 12:19pm PT
If Prod carries the Number 6 Camalot, I'm in. That is a pretty cool crack.
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Mar 22, 2011 - 01:28pm PT
It's your side in!
Prod

Trad climber
Mar 22, 2011 - 09:06pm PT
I'm in and I have 2 #6's too boot.

Prod.
eeyonkee

Trad climber
Golden, CO
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 22, 2011 - 09:22pm PT
Cool. How about this Saturday. I must admit, I'd hoped that the Road to Lucille would not involve doing a lot of hard offwidths - I mean, c'mon, offsidths are hard and they extract a toll on your skin and stuff. I was hoping more for like, eating vegemite sandwiches and flossing to get me through this.

But I'm not totally delusional. Clearly, a few 5.11 - 5.11+ offwidths need to be on the regimen if you hope to do a 5.12+ or harder offwidth (I guess). So this, 5.11b, short, but with a long hike offwidth, might be just the ticket...an early indication if I'll "have the right stuff".
Captain...or Skully

climber
The Seas of Stone.
Mar 22, 2011 - 09:33pm PT
Maybe keep up the flossing regimen, too.
eeyonkee

Trad climber
Golden, CO
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 22, 2011 - 09:38pm PT
I didn't start flossing or regularly putting on sunscreen until I was in my 40s. Now, I'm a good boy.
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Mar 22, 2011 - 09:44pm PT
Good on ya, about the teeth. That one mutual friend of ours, who is not in the same decade as us, and NOT a beer drinker, has been known to do his own sef-dentistry...


There's a road after Lucille too ya know. it's only one stop along, The Way...jess sayin'....
eeyonkee

Trad climber
Golden, CO
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 22, 2011 - 09:54pm PT
Say, what? I think you're too deep for me Jaybro. I'm a beer drinker.
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Mar 22, 2011 - 10:07pm PT
"Miller tastes too good, to hurry through..."

I'm just sayin' there's a growing list of list of stuff, beyond Lucille, to sink your teeth into. After you do that, one.
nutjob

Gym climber
Berkeley, CA
Mar 22, 2011 - 10:24pm PT
After Lucille you must have lost whatever brain cells there were to begin with, so you can do the whole Road to Lucille in reverse and every time it's like the first time.

Or maybe if you climb too many upside down wide things, you fully realize the metaphysical longing and become a bat?
eeyonkee

Trad climber
Golden, CO
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 22, 2011 - 10:32pm PT
Do I KNOW you Nutjob (you seem to know me).
nutjob

Gym climber
Berkeley, CA
Mar 22, 2011 - 10:49pm PT
I don't know you eeyonkee,I just hang out at ST and spew when work gets ugly.

I do like to climb wide stuff, but I don't see my road going much further than Twilight Zone or Cream.

Edit: Mental note to self, careful that dry humor isn't fully dehydrated by writing... I was using "you" in the general sense of "one" (as in anyone who reaches the level of wide enlightenment to climb Lucille), but it does sound like what I wrote was an attack. I didn't mean it that way, sorry if that's how it came out.
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Mar 22, 2011 - 10:59pm PT
And I know both of you. He's game, Grug. Strong with impeccable skillz I think we can infect him, just gotta get him out to Vedauwoo as soon as he does Twilight Zone. After that he's our's....
scuffy b

climber
dissected alluvial deposits, late Pleistocene
Mar 23, 2011 - 11:48am PT
Grug, I think a thorough comparison of VegeMite and MarMite would be
beneficial. A case of each would allow many replications of double-blind
testing and lead to determination of ideal dosages.
eeyonkee

Trad climber
Golden, CO
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 23, 2011 - 02:43pm PT
I like that Scuffy...it's scientific.

Nutjob - I wasn't at all inferring that you were dissing me. I was just TRYING to be funny. I'm not nearly as good as, say, Fish.
Phantom X

Trad climber
Honeycomb Hideout
Mar 23, 2011 - 03:33pm PT
Pregnant idea scuffy b. I think it's about time we with the advanced minds conduct us some scienific experiments. Does anyone have any hypothesis? I'm thinkin that for one we'll find that Vegamite makes one surly. Did you see the way Grug snapped at the always well meaning Nutjob and then after the Vegamite wore off backpedaled and coughed up that half baked lame excuse? Further!!!
scuffy b

climber
dissected alluvial deposits, late Pleistocene
Mar 23, 2011 - 04:28pm PT
I think he should start eating MarMite sandwiches.
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Mar 23, 2011 - 07:07pm PT
Has a 'stralian ever climbed Lucille?

I think Not!
MH2

climber
Mar 24, 2011 - 01:13pm PT
"Does anyone have any hypothesis?"


This may be exactly what he is looking for.

From a very scientific source:

[quote]
The placebo effect, also known as non-specific effects and the subject-expectancy effect, is the phenomenon that a patient's symptoms can be alleviated by an otherwise ineffective treatment, since the individual expects or believes that it will work.
[end quote]


I am also told by a usually reliable source that there is a double placebo effect in which you give the subject a placebo, tell them that it is a placebo, and they still benefit from it.


Sounds like we already have a perfectly adequate experimental group of 1; a positive-minded, right-thinking, go-anywhere type.

But MarMite???

As a kid visiting a friend's home, that stuff spread on toast and handed to innocent me turned me into a bitter cynic distrustful of all adults.

Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Mar 24, 2011 - 01:42pm PT
scuffy b

climber
dissected alluvial deposits, late Pleistocene
Mar 24, 2011 - 01:54pm PT
Well then, you must be a VegeMite fan, correct?

I suspect that the real reason no Australian has climbed Lucille is that
there are two kinds of Australian: VegeMite eaters and MarMite eaters.

Nobody, up until Eeyonkee's revolutionary 2011 training regimen, has
rigorously combined the two in a conscientiously applied program of regular
professional care---hold on, I got my cliches conflated--

I mean, when Eeyonkee goes on a program of eating both Vegemite and Marmite
sandwiches, with sufficient visualization of tops of pullup bars and
bursting finish-line tapes, he will CRUSH.
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Mar 24, 2011 - 02:09pm PT
I dunno, "imagine all the cells of your body exploding at the speed of light!"

It's dangerous stuff, crossing the streams!

Tell him about the twinkie, Egon.
MH2

climber
Mar 24, 2011 - 03:40pm PT
^^^^^^

And as we become scientific I am sure this will also be important:


http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Stanford_marshmallow_experiment
goatboy smellz

climber
Nederland
Mar 24, 2011 - 08:09pm PT
This Saturday is no good for me, I have to meet up with
a ski bunny in Minturn, besides it's suppose to snow
and I would like to keep up my reputation as a
fairweather climber.

How about the next Saturday, April 2?
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Mar 24, 2011 - 09:12pm PT
Crostraining the Minturn mile?
goatboy smellz

climber
Nederland
Mar 24, 2011 - 09:53pm PT
Skiing La Plata Peak then chowing down on fishtacos in Eagle afterwards.
___
Holy cow, Marmite is expensive, it's like the caviar of supplements!
http://www.amazon.com/Marmite-4-4oz-Jar/dp/B000P0ZC7G
eeyonkee

Trad climber
Golden, CO
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 25, 2011 - 09:47pm PT
Sheesh, Vegemite isn't all that cheap either. I'm thinking that if, in the end, I can't do Lucille, it will likely be because I can't afford my training regimen.
SteveW

Trad climber
The state of confusion
Mar 25, 2011 - 10:21pm PT

Pizza 'n beer, grug--you know the way. . .


hee hee hee. . . but try some sushi too, just sayin'
Phantom X

Trad climber
Honeycomb Hideout
Mar 26, 2011 - 12:12am PT
Today for training and to make pleasant conversation I asked a snooty friend of my wife's if she had heard any updates on Eeyonkee and Goatboy Smellz and she right away made a painfull face and snapped "What a combo, are these your barnyard friends?" ??? It caught me off guard and all I could come up with was "They can talk." She muttered something about leaving me to my insanity. Only she made it sound sad. Sheesh.
Elcapinyoazz

Social climber
Joshua Tree
Mar 26, 2011 - 12:22am PT
Marmite (which one, the British, or the NZ/Aussie?...two different things ya know)...vs Vegemite...but you leave out Promite?

Southern hemisphere version:


Brit version:



Brit Marmite is tasty. But I also like sprinkling brewers yeast on my popcorn...no accounting for tastes I guess.
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Mar 26, 2011 - 01:19pm PT
How's the Ergonomics going? Today is the day isn't it?
goatboy smellz

climber
Nederland
Mar 29, 2011 - 10:28am PT
Phantom X you can tell your wife's friend my tongue is a well known asset, it's eight inches long and when I stick it out I can breath through my ears. A real party pleaser.
Prod

Trad climber
Mar 29, 2011 - 10:43am PT
Snooty people suck ass.

Prod.
eeyonkee

Trad climber
Golden, CO
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 29, 2011 - 08:08pm PT
It caught me off guard and all I could come up with was "They can talk."

The wife says your a chump.

Funny sh#t, PhantomX (the wife thinks so too).

Phantom X

Trad climber
Honeycomb Hideout
Mar 30, 2011 - 01:39am PT
I can't tell, are you on the snooty lady's side or mine?
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Mar 30, 2011 - 01:45am PT
Snooty ladies just don't gotta be named Lucille.
eeyonkee

Trad climber
Golden, CO
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 29, 2011 - 04:00pm PT
Tentative date - weekend of August 5th. Just saw Jaybro, Pamela, and Pat (Kingsbury) at the Pearl Street Mall in Boulder. Man, them's the offwidth crew for sure.
Hankster

Social climber
BASE!
Apr 29, 2011 - 04:08pm PT
Make sure there's a trip report.

caylor
Gal

Trad climber
a semi lucid consciousness
Apr 29, 2011 - 04:09pm PT
Good Luck good luck!!!!!!
SteveW

Trad climber
The state of confusion
Apr 29, 2011 - 04:10pm PT

Whoa!!!!
They're tryin' to sneak in and become prancers!!!!
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Apr 29, 2011 - 04:17pm PT
That's Offwidth Gangsters, Grug....

-dble OWG
goatboy smellz

climber
Nederland
Apr 29, 2011 - 04:25pm PT
Old White Gangsters...the most terrifying kind.
eeyonkee

Trad climber
Golden, CO
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 29, 2011 - 04:31pm PT
Yer gonna give it a go, right Hankster? If those offwidth gangsters can do it...
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Jun 29, 2011 - 01:06pm PT
So,
We still on for around august 5th?

I'll be there.
Blitzo

Social climber
Earth
Jun 29, 2011 - 01:17pm PT
Letz do it!
eeyonkee

Trad climber
Golden, CO
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 13, 2011 - 06:33pm PT
Hadn't seen this since you posted last, Jaybro. Heading out on Friday, Aug 5.
SteveW

Trad climber
The state of confusion
Jul 13, 2011 - 06:34pm PT

Whoo hoo, the Voo wide fest!
I'll bring some beer!!!1
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Jul 13, 2011 - 06:46pm PT
How them squats doin' Grug?
goatboy smellz

climber
Nederland
Jul 13, 2011 - 08:02pm PT
I hear he's gunning for the elusive "off the couch onsight.
Gal

Trad climber
a semi lucid consciousness
Jul 13, 2011 - 08:14pm PT
I hear he's gunning for the elusive "off the couch onsight.

That made me laugh.
eeyonkee

Trad climber
Golden, CO
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 13, 2011 - 08:36pm PT
What's so elusive about it? Hell, I've been doing deep knee bends and such. I'd almost call that cheating for a real off the couch onsight.
Mighty Hiker

climber
Vancouver, B.C.
Jul 13, 2011 - 09:35pm PT
Lots of 12 ounce curls, too, I suppose? Though if it's in a glass stein, that can double the effort.
eeyonkee

Trad climber
Golden, CO
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 13, 2011 - 09:39pm PT
I drink 2 Fosters Oil cans every day - 25 oz. Again, feels like cheating.
klk

Trad climber
cali
Jul 13, 2011 - 09:56pm PT
Veedawoo is gorgeous.

Too bad the cracks are all wide and grainy.

How is it lookin for the gill boulder up at lake marie?
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Jul 14, 2011 - 01:04am PT
I'm going to be In the snowies weekend after next, Kerwin, I'll check it out for you.
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Jul 15, 2011 - 12:27am PT
She was asking about you, Grug...
Credit: Jaybro
Dick_Lugar

Trad climber
Collie-Rad-O! (FC to be exact)
Jul 15, 2011 - 01:04am PT
I can't speak for that "Grug" guy, but just looking at Lucille's pink slot glistening in the sun makes me want to lube up and slide in deep into her deep, granitic cavity...

Oh man, only me 3rd day out on a oil rig and I'm having bad thoughts...it's gonna be a long night!

SteveW

Trad climber
The state of confusion
Jul 15, 2011 - 01:57am PT
Dick, I thought you were teaching????

You be careful with your fingers out there!!!!!
Dick_Lugar

Trad climber
Collie-Rad-O! (FC to be exact)
Jul 15, 2011 - 02:15am PT
Hey Steve..teaching put on hold due to finances. I'm liking the CO alt. teacher certification. Gonna work in the oil patches for a year or two to pay off debt and give 'er a try then.

Not losing fingers, safely sitting in a trailer waiting for some "mud" to shake out. Putting my geology deg. to good use!

YOu teaching yet?

eeyonkee

Trad climber
Golden, CO
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 15, 2011 - 10:12am PT
I'll tell you what I need. I need a plan!
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Jul 15, 2011 - 10:14am PT
Hmm, Impure thoughts....Someone with the initial L Warned me about that, viz a vie Lucille a while back...

They looking for more teacher/loggers out there?
Brunosafari

Boulder climber
OR
Jul 15, 2011 - 10:39am PT

Plan-

1. Close shave
2. Tincture of Benzoin "undergarment"
3. Sticky Rubber Wetsuit
4. Energy Snacks
5. left and right Wilson A2000 ball gloves, outfielder model.
6. Footwear:go barefoot in order to open snacks easily.
eeyonkee

Trad climber
Golden, CO
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 15, 2011 - 10:50am PT
Not bad...that's exactly what I'm talking brunosafari. A real plan, with real steps, even if some of them need a little polishing.
Phantom X

Trad climber
Honeycomb Hideout
Jul 15, 2011 - 12:38pm PT
Although I read somewhere that you were a chump and will never make it, I don't know who would say that.... wait I remember now, it was that brunosafari guy, anyway I forgot what I was going to say. Hey when I first saw this thread I assumed that it would be full of entertainment in the form of lots of agony. So far it seems like what with your imported suds and vegamite paste that your incorporating some sort of screw off technique. I know, similar to an approach to offwidths I've worked on for decades with but little success . This forum is not a venue for personal attacks! Just kidding you dumb...! Again just kidding. Anyway a little agony would be nice.
SteveW

Trad climber
The state of confusion
Jul 15, 2011 - 12:53pm PT

Dick
No job yet--though I've been hired as a sub for one district here--I'm
hoping it's a foot in the door for something more permanent.
Good that you're using the geology--but again, be careful!!!!
Brunosafari

Boulder climber
OR
Jul 15, 2011 - 05:42pm PT
Eeyonkee- I took a chance posting, thinking I might have an opportunity since The Phantom X was said to be climbing The Hulk with his German Shepherd, "Shultzie." I didn't call you a chump...I said you should use your rump. I didn't say you wouldn't make it...I said you'd have a better chance if you sent Jim , Gail and also Mr. Gibby up first for beta.
Dick_Lugar

Trad climber
Collie-Rad-O! (FC to be exact)
Jul 15, 2011 - 07:45pm PT
Good luck Steve! Keep us posted as to what turns up for you. I'm being x-tremely careful: hardhat, steel toed botts, googles, and fire-retardant coveralls!

Jaybro-They are always looking for a few good MEN...or WOMEN! Not for the faint of heart I'm afraid.

Gotta run, next sample at 6,380 ft., at 6,373 ft. now.
goatboy smellz

climber
Nederland
Jul 15, 2011 - 10:32pm PT
Anyway a little agony would be nice.

oh no no no it's all about finding Lucille's sweet spot, pure pressure pleasure yo!
SteveW

Trad climber
The state of confusion
Jul 16, 2011 - 12:04am PT

Grugger--no smooth, you wanna stick in there!!!!
eeyonkee

Trad climber
Golden, CO
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 16, 2011 - 10:53am PT
Phantom X (if that even is your real name), if I had a dollar for every time I was called a chump, let me think...I guess I'd be about $3 richer, so let's forget about that angle. I know it was you. Don't mistake me for my brother Jim, who probably WOULD have forgotten. Agony, huh? I'll buy that. Could still happen real easily before the end of this thing. A lot more likely than, say, me having some kind of sexual experience with Lucille as some posters are suggesting.
Prod

Trad climber
Jul 16, 2011 - 12:58pm PT
(if that even is your real name),

hahaha

What we need is some practice.

Give me a shout.

Prod.
eeyonkee

Trad climber
Golden, CO
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 19, 2011 - 12:12am PT
Ok. I've got a plan of sorts. So I went to Vedauwoo last weekend with the missus. Spent a bunch of time hiking around seemingly aimlessly with a real heavy pack, but also managed to get a little offwidth practice in on some notable test pieces. Here's what I found out.

I can't stack to save my life - but I can still armbar. Screw stacking! Stacking hurts my shoulders. Armbars are a tried and true method that don't work everywhere, but where they do, they have the advantage that you don't need a knee to hold your ass in. The active armbar pressure is what holds you in. This allows you to actually use your feet to advance your arms upward, rather than just knee placements. The order of activity is:

1. Armbar is set as high as possible.
2. Feet slide upward and are set.
3. Armbar slides upward.
4. Repeat.

(In addition, when leading, somehow find the wherewithal to get something in and clipped).

From experience, I would add, go as fast as humanly possible when you are on a hard part of an armbar section. Your destination should be a, typically wider or narrower section of the crack where you can get a rest. When you can get rests in an armbar sequence, they can be really good, so its good to keep that in mind. A typical end to a hard armbarring sequence is a chicken wing at a wide bit. You could read War and Peace while in a chicken wing position. You might also think about placing gear from such a position.

Lucille appears, to me, to be mainly a long, left-side-in armbarring problem. This weekend, I was able to do the Vedauwoo test piece, Big Pink, relatively easily as a left-side-in armbar. Another classic test piece, October Light, a little easier, also has been easy for me as a left-side-in armbar. These are 5.11 offwidths. Some folks think Big Pink might be harder. Lucille is rated 5.13a.

Like that Saturday Night Live episode where Paul Simon admits that he might be at a height disadvantage in his one-on-one match against Kareem Abdul Jabbar, I'd have to admit that the Lucille might be out of my league. But maybe not.
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Jul 19, 2011 - 12:25am PT
For a man of your skillz, there will be no stacking on Lucille.

I did one of the first ascents ( Bob did the other one) of short but wide (aka Big pink)as a left side in armbar OW. I think I mostly climbed October Light right side in though(?)

If you don't want beta, don't read this

-I climbed Luciie as a left side in Chicken wing- but you're substantially larger than I.

Do you have a belayer lined up for this? Can I go too?
Mighty Hiker

climber
Vancouver, B.C.
Jul 19, 2011 - 01:26am PT
This could take longer than the WoS saga. You could at least post some photos. (teasing)
Darwin

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Jul 19, 2011 - 01:36am PT

Will someone tell me if they are even talking about climbing on the WoS thread? This thread totally f*#king ROCKS compared to that. I mean with terms like "left side in", "arm bar" and "chicken wing" it has to rock.

Darwin
Gal

Trad climber
a semi lucid consciousness
Jul 19, 2011 - 03:01am PT
Eeyonkee don't you dare throw in the towel (not that you were going to), you can do it!!!!! I hope you give her a whirl!!!! Sending encouragement vibes your way :-) !!!!
eeyonkee

Trad climber
Golden, CO
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 19, 2011 - 07:49am PT
I guess I equate armbars with chicken wings and contrast the combined technique to stacking. I would, of course, try to get chicken wings in wherever I could. The more wings, the easier it will be. Maybe I'll bring a novel. I never did finish that stupid, Myth of Sisysphus.

You are, of course, welcome to climb this with me Jaybro. I don't know if Hankster is still in. Sheesh, with how you seem to climbing, I wouldn't be surprised if you kill this thing.

I plan on being in Vedauwoo this coming weekend, again. Got any "almost like Lucille" suggestions?
SteveW

Trad climber
The state of confusion
Jul 19, 2011 - 10:26am PT

I can see it know, Greg and Lucille. . .


And Greg does it!!!!!
Prod

Trad climber
Jul 20, 2011 - 09:35pm PT
Someone has been talking about getting on this rig for over 5 years.

Who is this Grug character?

http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=215522&tn=20

Prod.
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
Jul 20, 2011 - 09:40pm PT
invalid without pics, so take a lot.


just sayin

;)
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Jul 20, 2011 - 10:22pm PT
Yeah speaking of pictures, I'd like to hang in the cave and take some, if someone else can belay...
Hankster

Social climber
BASE!
Jul 20, 2011 - 11:27pm PT
oh I'm in on this bitches. should be shoulder dislocatingly awesome!

caylor
SteveW

Trad climber
The state of confusion
Jul 21, 2011 - 01:20am PT
Jaybro, count me in, I'll be your belay bi***. . .

Really!

(as long as you don't take no pics of me, that is). . .
Mighty Hiker

climber
Vancouver, B.C.
Jul 21, 2011 - 01:37am PT
OK, but no freebasing. Otherwise we'll have to listen to Hank telling us about its radness in yet another movie. Though if the hotwife does the talking...

Edit: Yeah, you can tell from the photos and stories that she's a lively character.
SteveW

Trad climber
The state of confusion
Jul 21, 2011 - 02:38am PT

MH, Hank's hotwife is one SMART woman. Sheesh, I couldn't keep up with
her at Blitzo's happy hour -- she's definitely not just a pretty face!!!
Dick_Lugar

Trad climber
Collie-Rad-O! (FC to be exact)
Jul 21, 2011 - 02:48am PT
If I get the day off, I'll come watch...I could use some good comedy.
eeyonkee

Trad climber
Golden, CO
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 21, 2011 - 09:16pm PT
So, I just bought a number 4 Big Bro and some neoprene knee pads. NOW, I've got money into this thing! Turns out, if you're me, this is a big deal. In fact, I'd put this right up there with fear of failure as one of the top reasons I might pull this off. I mean, only because I don't have other, better stuff to count on.

For the record, my wide gear selection now consists of a #6 Camalot, a #5 Camalot, a #3 Big Bro, and a #4 Big Bro. I'm planning on borrowing another #6 Camalot from Prod for Lucille.
Gal

Trad climber
a semi lucid consciousness
Jul 21, 2011 - 09:25pm PT
I may be up there. If so, I'll bring chicken wings... a bucket of 'em.
eeyonkee

Trad climber
Golden, CO
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 21, 2011 - 09:38pm PT
By the way, my plan is for Jaybro and Hankster and I (and Phantom X, if he wishes to participate) to attempt this thing. Since this is my thread, I get first lead rights. Assuming I assert my right and don't wuss out because I got the itus or something, I'll, you know, get on the sharp end to start off with. If I cannot make my attempt, and remember, this is still my thread and I can do pretty much whatever the hell I want, I will give Phantom X next lead rights. Now, because Phantom X is likely to wuss out (although I have no apriori knowledge of this), my backup plan is to pretty much let Jaybro and Hankster fight it out. Have I missed anything?
Prod

Trad climber
Jul 21, 2011 - 09:46pm PT
I'll be there. And I have a #6 and #5 plus an old #5 which I think is between a new 5 and 6.

Prod.
eeyonkee

Trad climber
Golden, CO
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 21, 2011 - 09:48pm PT
Prod. Thanks, but leave the thinkin' to me.
Prod

Trad climber
Jul 21, 2011 - 09:55pm PT
How long is this rig? Will I be able to f*#k around on a TR send?

Prod.
SteveW

Trad climber
The state of confusion
Jul 21, 2011 - 09:55pm PT

Grug
I'll bring my #5 and #6 too!!!!

whoo hoo!!!!
eeyonkee

Trad climber
Golden, CO
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 21, 2011 - 10:01pm PT
So, Prod, are you telling me that to use your #6 Camalot, I have to let you, like, try on a TR? Is that what you're telling me? I've already muddled this thing up giving Phantom X free reign. I'm thinking I can borrow what I need with no strings attached from SteveW.
Prod

Trad climber
Jul 21, 2011 - 10:05pm PT
Actually with Steve's gear and my gear I think we, Steve and I, are planning on aiding that rig. Practice hauling and setting up my portaledge and cooking on the wall mid route! PTPP would consider our pace SLLLLLLOOOOOOOOOOWWWWWWWW.

So.....

There.
Prod

Trad climber
Jul 21, 2011 - 10:06pm PT
We might need to borrow your #6 though.
Hankster

Social climber
BASE!
Jul 21, 2011 - 10:17pm PT
This will be awesome!

caylor
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Jul 21, 2011 - 10:18pm PT
I've pretty much had the rack in the back of my car for the last several months...
Just spoke with the other member of the First Ascent who will try to be there also...
SteveW

Trad climber
The state of confusion
Jul 21, 2011 - 11:44pm PT

Prod--I'll bring my #10 Hex for the ledge!!!!
Phantom X

Trad climber
Honeycomb Hideout
Jul 22, 2011 - 12:34am PT
Excuse me but I have just recieved an emergency message from CMac asking me if there is anything I can do to silence the obnoxious sarcasm and ridicule that seems to be emerging again on this horrible thread. I think he is refering to Grug. Not wanting to steal any glory I think I will elect to pass on your offer to let me back up lead (as usual, which I would probably most likely easily do in style) Lucille. Also I have to go to Bed, Bath and Beyond that day (Don't laugh punk, armed shoplifting trip). I'd like to see you give that a try, talk about being a wuss. By the way, don't ever call me that, it makes me hyperventalate. Especially don't say that in public. The internets OK I guess, what the heck. Hey didn't you see earlier, Brunosafari mentioned that I was going to the east side to climb the Incredible Hulk with my dog Shultz, well although untrue I thought that it reads really, really well and is probably some of the best writing ever wrote right here on your very own thread but maybe that's just in contrast to the colorlessness of some of the other post. That's very possible.
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Jul 22, 2011 - 12:37am PT
Who's bringin' the cat?
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
Jul 22, 2011 - 12:38am PT
voted best thread July 2011 by Wide Guy Magazine!
eeyonkee

Trad climber
Golden, CO
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 22, 2011 - 08:17am PT
Wide Guy Magazine? Really. Aw shucks...I'm just a regular guy with a dream. Did they say something like that?
goatboy smellz

climber
Nederland
Jul 22, 2011 - 09:01am PT
There was a blurb in the " Where Are They Now ?" section.

Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Jul 22, 2011 - 09:59am PT
Start slow and taper off...
Phantom X

Trad climber
Honeycomb Hideout
Jul 22, 2011 - 12:11pm PT
Voted best thread in Tough and Stringy Magazine too. Go figure.
em kn0t

Trad climber
isle of wyde
Jul 22, 2011 - 02:00pm PT
eeyonkee

looking forward to seeing you send it.

rock on,
auntie em
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Jul 22, 2011 - 08:46pm PT
The pot is growing, WOS style. You gonna have a warmup saturday- send Sunday? Or just go for it straight from the car?
Prod

Trad climber
Jul 24, 2011 - 12:20pm PT
After getting my ass kicked by a Vedauwoo 11a I'm thinking I'll just watch and climb other easier stff....

Prod.
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Jul 24, 2011 - 12:35pm PT
"Always climb over your head," Rob Slater.
goatboy smellz

climber
Nederland
Jul 24, 2011 - 05:55pm PT
"A little more grip, a little less lip." - Ice Cube
dogtown

Trad climber
JackAssVille, Wyoming
Jul 24, 2011 - 06:44pm PT
You left something off your list. Prepare to be frustrated and intimidated at the same time. Good luck on your quest.

DT.
Prod

Trad climber
Jul 24, 2011 - 09:59pm PT
"Road to Lucille" Funny according to your wife, you couldn't even find the trail to Lucille last weekend....

Prod.
Captain...or Skully

climber
or some such
Jul 24, 2011 - 10:25pm PT
D'oh.
Phantom X

Trad climber
Honeycomb Hideout
Jul 24, 2011 - 10:34pm PT
That was because he was focusing Prod. His wife could never know this. I wouldn't arouse this angry mutant, he is in transition stage. I've been through this many, many times when he was a boy mutant. He seems to be out, hopefully doing wind sprints and laying low so we should probably get in some cold shots so as to prepare him to his fullest capacity. As his trustworthy second I'm stuck on his reference to War and Peace. Did he read the abridged version? It's cryptic him mentioning this and I can't help but see it like this: In the book Pierre (Grug, played by Kurt Russell) representing nobility and depth, foolishly gets himself into a duel with DoloDolovich (Lucille and superficiality) to the surprise of his second (Me, played by a young James Gardner)representing purity and innocence. It's known as the comical part of the book. If you climb OW you know the outcome.
Rock!...oopsie.

Trad climber
the pitch above you
Jul 24, 2011 - 10:35pm PT
Speed ascent technique:


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UIV9LVU3G0U
Captain...or Skully

climber
or some such
Jul 24, 2011 - 11:25pm PT
Eeyonkee's got it. He's got the skills(mad skills).
Just gotta WANT it.
Credit: Dick Danger
goatboy smellz

climber
Nederland
Jul 25, 2011 - 09:51am PT
hey there saaaaay Grug, how was your weekend?
eeyonkee

Trad climber
Golden, CO
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 25, 2011 - 04:01pm PT
Goatboy; Had a fun 2nd weekend in a row at Vedauwoo, this time hanging out with Prod and Christa. Yeah, a week ago the wife and I had some trouble finding a decent trail to the base of Lucille. Is there a single cairn anywhere at Vedauwoo? Anyhow, I ended up scrambling to the base while she stayed behind. So, I at least got a look at her majesty (Lucille, not my wife) from the base of Best of the Blues.

Jaybro; I think I'll hang loose as to whether to attempt on Saturday or Sunday. I'll go with the flow.

Em; Looking forward to seeing you.

Phantom X; I'm wondering if they need writers for Zippy the Pinhead. You've got talent in this arena, I'm thinking.

Gal; Thanks for the encouragement.

Dogtown; I'm well aware of what I'm up against.

Miss anybody?
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Jul 25, 2011 - 04:12pm PT
Looking at Lucille right now, she wants you, Grug!
She tells me she's been lonely since kinky inverted tryst with Shanti...
eeyonkee

Trad climber
Golden, CO
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 25, 2011 - 06:19pm PT
Showing that picture of Shanti upside down in Lucille is always a real crowd pleaser.
426

climber
Jul 25, 2011 - 06:34pm PT
As siked as I am for the bad gurl (VDS), I would have to say +/+= sike on "His Fake Book" how about 150 year combined...looking at 8/8s ish...
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Jul 29, 2011 - 10:31am PT
1 week to go style bump!
Crimpergirl

Sport climber
Boulder, Colorado!
Jul 29, 2011 - 10:53am PT
Go grug go! It will be an awesome go. Hoping someone videos it for those of us who cannot be there.
scuffy b

climber
dissected alluvial deposits, late Pleistocene
Jul 29, 2011 - 12:04pm PT
A video would be good.
I've got to say, I have watched Grug climb a few wide cracks, and sometimes
I simply can't understand how he's doing it.
I consider myself a fairly serious student of the genre, but some of his
movements are mysterious.
Prod

Trad climber
Jul 29, 2011 - 12:10pm PT
Are you heading up there this weekend?

Prod.
scuffy b

climber
dissected alluvial deposits, late Pleistocene
Jul 29, 2011 - 12:15pm PT
Now way, my fingers are about as tough as a baby's butt.
Ribs still clunking and creaking.
No power or time.
WBraun

climber
Jul 29, 2011 - 02:15pm PT
That thing doesn't "Look" too hard .... :-)
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Jul 31, 2011 - 01:07am PT
She's too shy to ask, but if anyone coming from the south could help Em of Wyde with a ride from DIA to Vedauwoo Friday afternoon, quality Wyde karma would definitely be yours!

Now how on topic is that, for a thread enticed, "Road to Lucille?"
goatboy smellz

climber
Nederland
Jul 31, 2011 - 08:57am PT
I'll send Jeeves with the cah.
What time should we expect the divine Ms. Em?
Robb

Social climber
The other
Jul 31, 2011 - 01:07pm PT
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4ha4UKVf3wk

edit-to help ya'll get stoked & stuff....
SteveW

Trad climber
The state of confusion
Jul 31, 2011 - 01:39pm PT

Jay--I could pick up the Divine ms. em also, if necessary!!!!
Blitzo

Social climber
Earth
Jul 31, 2011 - 01:47pm PT
eeyonkee, crush it bro! I wish I could be there.
Captain...or Skully

climber
or some such
Jul 31, 2011 - 01:56pm PT
Me too, Blitzo.
Gal

Trad climber
a semi lucid consciousness
Jul 31, 2011 - 03:01pm PT
I'm going to be there. GO Eeyonkee!!!!!!! Let me know if the Divine Ms. Em has any issue finding a ride... so far it sounds like she is covered... I'll be heading up from Ft. Collins sometime Friday.
SteveW

Trad climber
The state of confusion
Aug 1, 2011 - 12:20am PT

Grug
I sent you a pm, so if you didn't see it, check your junkmail. . .
eeyonkee

Trad climber
Golden, CO
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 1, 2011 - 10:30am PT
Thanks for the encouragement, everybody. Looks like Em is being taken care of. I, too, could be a backup, there. So, less than a week to go. Here's my short term plan.

1. Remember to bring a REAL pillow, not settle for a makeshift hoodie around a number 6 Camalot or something. Getting a good night's sleep is going to be key.
2. Remember to fix my blowup mattress. Again, the whole sleeping thing.
3. Apply neosporin everyday to all of my scrapes from recent time spent at Vedauwoo. Hopefully, they will be largely healed before Saturday.
4. Try to forget about the "mixed" results I've had recently. Wide cracks are hard.
5. Try to at least give up beer for this final week. I feel guilty about this, especially for those of you with money on me. 4-5 beers a day is probably not in the best training regimens. I can do better...

...Gotta get back to work. These are the easy, obvious steps in the plan. I've got a few more, but they need the light of articulation (later).
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Aug 1, 2011 - 10:42am PT
Pillow, blow up doll, beer as reward not breakfast.

All sounds good, if lite...
goatboy smellz

climber
Nederland
Aug 1, 2011 - 10:52am PT
I have something stronger than a comfy pillow for sleep, better living through chemistry yahknow.

eeyonkee

Trad climber
Golden, CO
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 1, 2011 - 11:16am PT
Lite, huh? The next step that I hadn't mentioned (or come up with) yet involves a bunch of hard work on my part.
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Aug 1, 2011 - 11:38am PT
Hoh yeah! But you're a hard worker!
goatboy smellz

climber
Nederland
Aug 1, 2011 - 11:43am PT
hard work + dope = WINNING!


Mike Friedrichs

Sport climber
City of Salt
Aug 1, 2011 - 12:45pm PT
Grug,

Haven't decided on the drive yet but if I'm not there, I'll be sending energy your way. I think you can do it. Just be patient. There is a section where you have to be satisfied with an inch at a time. You'll get there. It's not super long, it just seems that way.

mike

Lowering out is almost as difficult as finishing, so you might as well finish!
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Aug 1, 2011 - 01:09pm PT
Okay, everybody tell Mike he's gotta be there too!


Lower out is only 5.10/.11a max, and that's in a swami with no legloops....

the Send is prouder, though....
eeyonkee

Trad climber
Golden, CO
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 1, 2011 - 01:17pm PT
Thanks Mike. That means a lot (finally, some friggin' beta!). I actually do have a strategy of sorts. One of the things I have noticed is that leading offwidths these days is harder for me compared to the old days because of how "easy" it is to keep a piece above you. Of course, it's not easy at all. I would say screwing around trying to keep gear above you (and the peace of mind that comes with that) makes a lead 75% harder. The rope's always getting stuck against your knee or butt against the rock...and then you try to push the leading piece up and you can't! Aaaarggghhhh! The old days were simpler...you just had to go for it. That's the way I did Air Voyage (probably my hardest lead OW) The key is to wait for the rest to place pro.

So, I'm hoping I can place such that it isn't actually dangerous for a big whipper and then go out ahead of my pro. Then I can focus on the OW climbing and not on the pro.
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Aug 1, 2011 - 01:23pm PT
I'm hoping I can place such that it isn't actually dangerous for a big whipper and then go out ahead of my pro

That's what I did!
ydpl8s

Trad climber
Santa Monica, California
Aug 1, 2011 - 01:34pm PT
Air Voyage? Yowsa!, maybe there's your answer, you just need more than a 1000 feet of exposure and warmup :-)
eeyonkee

Trad climber
Golden, CO
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 1, 2011 - 02:31pm PT
My history with Air Voyage actually supports my case. I actually did Air Voyage three times. In 1990 and 1992 I did it the "old style" way with Clean Dan Grandusky and Tom Dickey, respectively, and led it relatively easily. In 2005, with George Lowe, trying to keep a piece above me, I got completely shut down and ended up aiding the thing.

Of course, a big part of the going out above your pro strategy relies on your having lots of confidence in your ability to hang in there. That's where the upcoming hypnosis session's going to work for me.
em kn0t

Trad climber
isle of wyde
Aug 1, 2011 - 02:44pm PT
hi all

yes, spontaneous teleportation is arranged with goatboy
(& thanks to others who offered ride)

Mike you sure BETTER be there... counting on seeing you!

Auntie Em

PS Greg: You're the man, you will flash, please.
Brutus's beta for OW was "a quarter-inch is GOOD progress...you just need to keep doing that quarter-inch over and over...and over...and over..."
ydpl8s

Trad climber
Santa Monica, California
Aug 1, 2011 - 02:53pm PT
Hypnosis, well that should at least work with the sleep thing.

sleepy
sleepy
Credit: ydpl8s
Prod

Trad climber
Aug 1, 2011 - 03:08pm PT
1. Remember to bring a REAL pillow, not settle for a makeshift hoodie around a number 6 Camalot or something. Getting a good night's sleep is going to be key.
2. Remember to fix my blowup mattress. Again, the whole sleeping thing.
3. Apply neosporin everyday to all of my scrapes from recent time spent at Vedauwoo. Hopefully, they will be largely healed before Saturday.
4. Try to forget about the "mixed" results I've had recently. Wide cracks are hard.
5. Try to at least give up beer for this final week. I feel guilty about this, especially for those of you with money on me. 4-5 beers a day is probably not in the best training regimens. I can do better...

To your #2, you can come over one evening and use my hot tub to find the leak.

To your #5, WTF? You're not a sport climber, your an OW climber. Drink beer be a man!

#2 and #5 combined, If you aint drinking beer then you can't come over and use the hot tub.

Prod.
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Aug 1, 2011 - 05:13pm PT
Oooh. Prod got the coveted 296 post. only 800 to go!
Stephen McCabe

Trad climber
near Santa Cruz, CA
Aug 1, 2011 - 06:10pm PT
Yes, 1096 is a good number.
eeyonkee

Trad climber
Golden, CO
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 1, 2011 - 08:50pm PT
Prod, I'll get back with you in private. Obscure, but like it, Jaybro. Is this some kind of codified message that 1096 would be good practice for Lucille? Luckily, I've watched some of those crummy Dan Brown movies and also am following a post that explicitly pointed out your codified message. Hmmmm...I did on-site that one back in the day. Who can forget the iconic picture of Phil Gleason on this climb? But, of course, that's 10.96 and not 12.96.
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Aug 1, 2011 - 10:56pm PT
Just seemed obscurely offwidth related...
philo

Trad climber
Somewhere halfway over the rainbow
Aug 2, 2011 - 11:45am PT
Of course, a big part of the going out above your pro strategy relies on your having lots of confidence in your ability to hang in there.
While your ball sack hangs way out there and your O-ring tightens enough to cut washers off of.


Two things Grugster.
Joe Frasier used to soak his head in hydrogen peroxide to toughen his facial skin against the pounding Ali was going to give it. Also, human skin has an incredible coefficient of friction as witnessed by the amazing barefoot ascents by real tough guys.

So my suggestion is you fill Prod's hot tub with H2O2 and soak your beer fattened kiester for a couple of good long sessions. Then go get Lucille in the nude. After that no one will bother you no matter how much brew you swill.

Come on man you are a Stout Silver Back! Get er Dun!

Seriously good luck. You can do it if you believe you can. Cheers!
Prod

Trad climber
Aug 2, 2011 - 01:37pm PT
All I can say,,, is Philo knows how to party!

Prod.
Captain...or Skully

climber
or some such
Aug 2, 2011 - 05:57pm PT
I agree. We're rootin' for ya over here, too, Eeyonkee.
That can't hurt. Lucille is goin' DOWN!!!2!!
eeyonkee

Trad climber
Golden, CO
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 2, 2011 - 11:17pm PT
Hey all. Sheesh, I'm not the best at planning things...but here's the plan. I'm going to leave Boulder at around 1:00 pm on Friday and will try to secure the campsite area at the end of Rd 700E, identified as "PartyLand" in the Vedauwoo Guide by Robert Kelman. It might be called PartyLand, but, make no mistake, it's a serious camp site. Go past the pay campground about a mile or so, look for a right turn (700E) and follow it to its end. There will be an Aspen forest in front of a Crag. Ask for Eeeyonkeee.
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Aug 2, 2011 - 11:48pm PT
I'm driving down Thursday, but will probablly be in the pay campground away from tweaker country... may move over though, if there are enough people and someone there all the time...
eeyonkee

Trad climber
Golden, CO
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 3, 2011 - 12:00am PT
I was thinking that there might be more people than could be accommodated at the pay campground. Maybe if we can secure like 3 campsites at the pay campground, we can settle there. Ill keep you all posted.
Mike Friedrichs

Sport climber
City of Salt
Aug 3, 2011 - 12:23pm PT
I'm leaving way early Saturday and hope to arrive in time for the "event," if not for the afterglow. Stay psyched Greg, you've got this. Or as Russ would say, "it's your side in."
dogtown

Trad climber
JackAssVille, Wyoming
Aug 3, 2011 - 09:04pm PT
I’m crushed no love!
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Aug 3, 2011 - 09:06pm PT
You're gonna be there right Dawg?!
Mike Friedrichs

Sport climber
City of Salt
Aug 4, 2011 - 04:34pm PT
Reflection style bump.

I've been thinking about this a bit lately. It was a long time ago. No Jay didn't flash it. But you have to have some perspective. Nothing this hard had been done at Vedauwoo. It was sort of our version of the 4-minute mile. I don't think there was ever any doubt in Jay's mind that he could do it, but there probably was some uncertainty about when.

Jay had to provide most of the energy. He had a partner who didn't have the same vision. I believed that Jay could do it, but at least initially I didn't think I belonged there. If you've ever been in this situation, you understand. Jay always had more confidence in me that I did.

We didn't have modern gear. We had tube chocks and two wobbly Yates cams. In fact, I was so determined to follow clean that I couldn't retrieve one of the cams. These cams had the unfortunate property that the trigger bar didn't collapse the cams all the way. When we went back the next day to get it, it was gone. I wish whoever took it would return it so we could put it in the offwidth hall of fame.

We were thwarted by various obstacles: thunderstorms, homework, beer, Norwegian girls. Ultimately we were a lot more successful with Lucille than the Norwegian girls. There is some dealage just getting up there.

So you have to admire Jay's vision, tenacity, determination, and ultimately success. I hope this weekend will be a celebration of that whether Greg does it in one try or not (I think he can - he's got mad skills). Here's to ya Jaybro. Awesome!

Here's some other details that I remember. The belay is in a refrigerator. Really. Take a down coat. It's freezing in there. The "anchor" at the time was a piece of rope wrapped around a horn or boulder or something. I always lead the approach pitch. The rack is a #4 friend. We always approached via free solo of Ed's crack with a big obnoxious tune box strapped to my pack.

See you all Saturday I hope. Good luck Greg.
Brandon-

climber
The Granite State.
Aug 4, 2011 - 04:49pm PT
It's going down!!! Send!!!!
Shanti

Trad climber
The Dragon's Liar
Aug 4, 2011 - 06:32pm PT
Mike thank you for the lovely comments about your experience with Jay on Lucille. Your respect and support for his vision inspired a new chapter in the history of hard offwidths. That route is ALL about the passion to climb, about partnership and unstoppable determination and you can feel it as you walk out that ledge. Thank you two for creating a master-piece.

Good luck to you Greg!!! I wish I could be there with you sitting in that cold cave of doom and cheering for you, but I will be cheering for you from The Bering Sea!

PS Send my regards to that little lady -- she's a soul crushing beauty to be sure!

BETA: Upside-down and right-side in ;)
eeyonkee

Trad climber
Golden, CO
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 4, 2011 - 11:53pm PT
Nice post Mike. Thanks for the clarification on how it all went down. This is a beautiful climb with a great story. I'd wondered whether you had actually been able to follow it. Not surprised at all.

Thanks for the support Shanti (and everyone else) - maybe not so much for the beta. I'm going with the head up approach.
philo

Trad climber
Somewhere halfway over the rainbow
Aug 5, 2011 - 12:51am PT
Hey Grug, my best suggestion, other than the H2O2 hot tub, is that if you hear thunder, even distant thunder, get out of there FAST!!!!!! Go back after it clears. Walt's Wall is where I got lit up. Here's to blue skies, good gear and limited blood letting, Best of luck man!
flyingkiwi1

Trad climber
Seattle WA
Aug 5, 2011 - 03:54am PT
What an awesome thread. May a good time be had by all!

Ian
Lasti

Trad climber
Budapest
Aug 5, 2011 - 04:16am PT
GO FOR IT!

Sending all available send vibes your way. Hope some make it across the Atlantic.

Lasti

p.s. Being in a country where offwidths are practically nonexistent, this thread has been a great link to wild, wild world of wide I miss so much. All the positive energy and support thrown out to Greg on his quest have shown that when it really matters, i.e. in climbing, the Taco crew are a great bunch of people.
eeyonkee

Trad climber
Golden, CO
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 5, 2011 - 08:36am PT
It's interesting that the newest Vedauwoo guidebook (Zach Orenczak and Rachael Lynn) re-establishes the 5.13a grade for Lucille, whereas the earlier guidebook called it 5.12b. Some other climbs that I'm familiar with have been downgraded in the new book: Left Torpedo Tube from 5.10d to 5.10a; Right Torpedo Tube from 5.11c to 5.11b; October Light from 5.11b to 5.11a. Big Pink stays at 5.11b. Not used to seeing hard, older climbs actually downgraded in newer guidebooks. I'm assuming that .13a is what Jaybro and Mike originally rated Lucille (I should know this).

scuffy b

climber
dissected alluvial deposits, late Pleistocene
Aug 5, 2011 - 11:41am PT
Quick, name three 5.10 offwidth cracks that are harder than Left
Torpedo Tube.
Prod

Trad climber
Aug 5, 2011 - 12:15pm PT
Bummed to not be there to cheer you on Eeyonkee.

Uhh...

God Speed
May the force be with you
Good luck
Break a leg
You can do it (think Adam Sandler movies)
Send it dude
nothing but a thang
get er done


Prod.
goatboy smellz

climber
Nederland
Aug 5, 2011 - 12:32pm PT
You're not coming Prod?
sheesh after all this hype I was hoping you were up for a lap.
Prod

Trad climber
Aug 5, 2011 - 12:36pm PT
Gotta work Goat.

I've been waiting for a permit from Boulder County since June 29th. I'm picking it up today and working 6 days a week for the next month or so...

Prod.
eeyonkee

Trad climber
Golden, CO
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 5, 2011 - 01:40pm PT
That's right, Scuffy, last time I did Left Torpedo Tube was with you. Whaddya' think - .10a? If you mean of the .10a grade, I'd say Main Street (Vedauwoo),Honeymoon Chimney (Utah desert), must be one in Yosemite.

Gonna miss you and Christa, Prod. Thanks for the sendoff!
philo

Trad climber
Somewhere halfway over the rainbow
Aug 5, 2011 - 01:44pm PT
Hey Grug, if you coat your chest hair with polyurethane and come it downward before it dries it will act like human velcro. Sorry I won't be there. Get er dun!
ydpl8s

Trad climber
Santa Monica, California
Aug 5, 2011 - 01:47pm PT
Phil, you're just jealous of his manly rug, my wife loves mine.
scuffy b

climber
dissected alluvial deposits, late Pleistocene
Aug 5, 2011 - 01:47pm PT
Hey, Grug, I initially said 'easier' when I meant "harder", then edited.
I can't think of a 5.10 offwidth that I have done which is harder than
L Torpedo Tube.
Left Torpedo Tube is, I think, harder than Maria's (5.10C) Vendetta (5.10b) Steppin Out (5.10d).
Same rating for Mainstreet and Left Torpedo Tube?
eeyonkee

Trad climber
Golden, CO
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 5, 2011 - 01:57pm PT
Main Street is 5.10a, and ...hard, almost certainly a sandbag. Left Torpedo Tube isn't .10a. Maybe it was a typo - kind of a big one though, considering the relative prestige of the climb.

Also, for the record, Big Pink is a sandbag at .11b.

-Edit - Thanks for the tip, Philo. And I'm off.
Phantom X

Trad climber
Honeycomb Hideout
Aug 5, 2011 - 02:39pm PT
This thread has left me completely exausted but it will all be worth it when you succeed in your endeavor (means when you climb Lucille, the one at Vedauwoo). I would like to thank CMac for believing in me and not pulling the plug during the excruciating parts. It wouldn't kill you to wish Grug well on what has single handedly saved your website from bankruptcy. Make sure you bring your pillow Grug and get a good nights sleep or you don't stand a chance in hell. I await your telegram, good luck, have a great time!
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Aug 6, 2011 - 11:43am PT
Site 12 you deadbeats...
Prod

Trad climber
Aug 6, 2011 - 01:34pm PT
News? Update?

Prod.
Crimpergirl

Sport climber
Boulder, Colorado!
Aug 6, 2011 - 01:41pm PT
Go crush Grug! Have fun everyone. I look forward to the photos!
philo

Trad climber
Somewhere halfway over the rainbow
Aug 6, 2011 - 01:48pm PT
Particularly if the Stout Silverback took any of my Sage advice.
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Aug 6, 2011 - 01:54pm PT
Grug is currently experiencing the best of the blues
SteveW

Trad climber
The state of confusion
Aug 6, 2011 - 03:27pm PT

As I posted on the HH thread, you lucky folks at Lucillefest, check the
sky tonight--major solar disturbances, might lead to the northern lights!!!!

Go Greg, GO!!!!
Prod

Trad climber
Aug 7, 2011 - 04:21pm PT
Well?
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Aug 7, 2011 - 06:25pm PT
Well?
goatboy smellz

climber
Nederland
Aug 7, 2011 - 06:30pm PT
News at 11.
Crimpergirl

Sport climber
Boulder, Colorado!
Aug 7, 2011 - 06:38pm PT
Well?
zip

Trad climber
pacific beach, ca
Aug 7, 2011 - 07:15pm PT
someone owe me $ ?
Brandon-

climber
The Granite State.
Aug 7, 2011 - 07:18pm PT
I, for one, would like to hear how it went down.
eeyonkee

Trad climber
Golden, CO
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 8, 2011 - 12:28am PT
Let's just say that next time I'm bringing two pillows. I was in the ballpark, but couldn't pull it off. Mike Friedrichs (Jaybro's original belayer) belayed me while Jaybro took pictures from the peanut gallery. Other members of the peanut gallery were Gal, Em, Goatboy, this dude named Bill who had the gallery in stitches nearly the whole time I was up there, Sishoo, and Elizabeth. The vibes couldn't have been better.

Lucille is definitely a lesson in chicken wings. The closest thing that I've done to something like this is Big Grunt at Mt Woodson. What makes Lucille so much harder is it flares outward. It requires being essentially horizontal for several moves. I ran out of gas whilst on my way to getting back to vertical.

Fun and memorable weekend. Mike and Jaybro were gracious and helpful. Pictures will be following, I'm sure.
scaredycat

Trad climber
Berkeley,CA
Aug 8, 2011 - 12:54am PT
good on'ya for trying, win, lose, or draw.

I'm honored to lurk here through the process.
philo

Trad climber
Somewhere halfway over the rainbow
Aug 8, 2011 - 12:57am PT
Good on ya Grug for the sincere effort. Clearly you didn't heed my advise on the skin toughening H2O2 hot tub, urethaned chest hair and naked ascent. Maybe next time. Cheers.
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Aug 8, 2011 - 01:01am PT
Hoh man! I thought he had it! It was so cool to watch. We were with him! Shanti was cheerleading via the Internet from the Bering sea, live!

So much positive energy! He was there! I swear!

Photos to follow!
SteveW

Trad climber
The state of confusion
Aug 8, 2011 - 01:06am PT

Greg--AWESOME effort. You're sure to get it next time!
philo

Trad climber
Somewhere halfway over the rainbow
Aug 8, 2011 - 01:12am PT
Shanti was cheerleading via the Internet from the Bering sea, live!


Now how cool is that!!!!
MH2

climber
Aug 8, 2011 - 01:33am PT
In the ballpark? That must account for the way this thread hits it out of the park so many ways.
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Aug 8, 2011 - 01:35am PT
sounds like it was a great time had by all!
congrats to Greg... the road goes ever on...
Daphne

Trad climber
Mill Valley, CA
Aug 8, 2011 - 02:01am PT
You're sure to get her next time!
murcy

Gym climber
sanfrancisco
Aug 8, 2011 - 02:03am PT
What?? You mean Jaybro's nemesis is nontrivial? No surprise there, but way to attack it!
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
Aug 8, 2011 - 02:38am PT
cool. psyched that you all are having a blast.

be sure to leave some fun there.

just a couple more weeks
Crimpergirl

Sport climber
Boulder, Colorado!
Aug 8, 2011 - 10:14am PT
Sounds like a awesome event. Congratulations on giving it your all. Send or no send, you are a winner!
eeyonkee

Trad climber
Golden, CO
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 8, 2011 - 10:31am PT
Hey thanks, y'all. This was a truly cool experience. I gotta say, I'm looking forward to seeing the pictures. The vantage from the peanut gallery was really good.
Brokedownclimber

Trad climber
Douglas, WY
Aug 8, 2011 - 10:45am PT
Sorry I wasn't there to add my cheers onward! Great stuff, anyway!
stich

Trad climber
Colorado Springs, Colorado
Aug 8, 2011 - 10:57am PT
Sounds like a great time there, Greg! Wish I could have been there but went to RMNP to do a climb with my partner Roland after he recovered from surgery. Very cool that you had Shanti on the horn via the Internet. Can't ask for a better audience than that. Looking forward to the pictures. I'll post our outing in the Park too.
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Aug 8, 2011 - 12:24pm PT
How sore are you this morn, Greg? I'm stiff just from watching! Still climbing though, curry's just went down. Taking em and gal to the warden et al later....
klk

Trad climber
cali
Aug 8, 2011 - 12:25pm PT
sounds like fun.

watching, that is.
426

climber
Aug 8, 2011 - 01:17pm PT
sick; wish I was there; one of these days...big grunt smoked me circa '94, i couldn't barrel roll into it without totally committing over the blacktop...
Elcapinyoazz

Social climber
Joshua Tree
Aug 8, 2011 - 01:23pm PT
We want pics!
426

climber
Aug 8, 2011 - 01:26pm PT
1000% moar pix
goatboy smellz

climber
Nederland
Aug 8, 2011 - 01:27pm PT

426

climber
Aug 8, 2011 - 01:37pm PT
teez...mOr!
goatboy smellz

climber
Nederland
Aug 8, 2011 - 01:46pm PT

Mungeclimber

Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
Aug 8, 2011 - 01:49pm PT
thx gb
eeyonkee

Trad climber
Golden, CO
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 8, 2011 - 02:44pm PT
Had to hit work running today, but Elizabeth sent me 3 pics. Here's one.

eeyonkee

Trad climber
Golden, CO
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 8, 2011 - 02:48pm PT
Here's another. A little blurry. Jaybro probably has some much better ones.
Elcapinyoazz

Social climber
Joshua Tree
Aug 8, 2011 - 02:49pm PT
That's the stuff!
Crimpergirl

Sport climber
Boulder, Colorado!
Aug 8, 2011 - 02:49pm PT
These are awesome photos! Looking forward to more. Thx.
Weld_it

Trad climber
Chatsworth
Aug 8, 2011 - 02:53pm PT
FACT: RADNESSSSS
goatboy smellz

climber
Nederland
Aug 8, 2011 - 02:56pm PT

goatboy smellz

climber
Nederland
Aug 8, 2011 - 03:01pm PT
goatboy smellz

climber
Nederland
Aug 8, 2011 - 03:06pm PT



locker

Social climber
CO
Aug 8, 2011 - 03:09pm PT

"BOOST" POST:

photo not found
Missing photo ID#211979
...

"BOOST" test POST #2:

photo not found
Missing photo ID#211980
...

SteveW

Trad climber
The state of confusion
Aug 8, 2011 - 03:20pm PT

Greg
You're still incredible. I wouldn't even try Lucille.
I'm real IMPRESSED!!!!
ydpl8s

Trad climber
Santa Monica, California
Aug 8, 2011 - 03:26pm PT
Awww man, you were there! (obviously, I know not of what I speak) Looks like Lucille let you get to Third Base, maybe she was just shy in front of all the voyeurs.
Crimpergirl

Sport climber
Boulder, Colorado!
Aug 8, 2011 - 03:32pm PT
Seriously - so close! Bet you'd get it on another try... ;)
eeyonkee

Trad climber
Golden, CO
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 8, 2011 - 04:36pm PT
Thanks, Crimpie. I figure I'm going to have to at least double the number of deep knee-bends and jumping jacks in my workout program before a serious second attempt.

As you can see from these pics, your right arm is pretty much always in a palm-down position while your left (out of sight) is doing chicken wings. Didn't do one arm-bar.

Oh, and Jaybro, I'm sore all over - particularly the left shoulder. I had suspected that I may have a torn rotator cuff in the left shoulder (I've already had surgery in the right). I'm about 85% sure, now.
Dingus Milktoast

Gym climber
And every fool knows, a dog needs a home, and...
Aug 8, 2011 - 04:49pm PT
Wow!

DMT
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Aug 8, 2011 - 05:03pm PT
Sick testpiece!
Way to go for it while allowing an audience.
Sorry to hear about your left shoulder.
Thanks to all for sharing the photos.
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Aug 8, 2011 - 05:06pm PT
Photos when I get to town.

Currys & beefeater so far today....
klk

Trad climber
cali
Aug 8, 2011 - 05:19pm PT
boodles is a lot better than beefeaters. but i do appreciate a good gimlet in summertime.


never tried currys.
Brokedownclimber

Trad climber
Douglas, WY
Aug 8, 2011 - 07:47pm PT
Greg-

I'll buy you a tall cold one at the next HH! I'm sure you'll use your right arm to lift it.
Phantom X

Trad climber
Honeycomb Hideout
Aug 8, 2011 - 09:04pm PT
Hot Dog Grug, way to go! I thought the H2O2 Hot tub was a no brainer, but nooo, you had to do it your way and it seems well you did, maybe. Did you guys make smores?
eeyonkee

Trad climber
Golden, CO
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 8, 2011 - 09:11pm PT
You're on, Brokedown,and thanks, Steve.

Sorry, for bumping my own thread, but the whole experience (plus the three beers I just had) has got me thinking about wide crack ratings. As I understand it, Lucille was originally rated 5.13(a) (by Jaybro and Mike), but is considered possibly as easy as 5.12b (following Craig Luebben's flash?). Mountain Project has it at 5.12d, the just-older Vedauwoo guidebook calls it 5.12b, while the new guidebook, which seems to downgrade everything else, has it back at 5.13a/b. That's a relatively big spread. What's going on?

Personally, I think some of this stuff is like comparing apples with oranges. Lucille is a true squeeze chimney - not an offwidth sensu stricto (I always wanted to use that term in a sentence (hopefully I got it right)). Although I didn't quite finish it, I'm pretty sure that the first armbar you get would be in the 5.9 or 5.10 section at the very top. The way you attack this is completely different than, say, Big Pink or Twilight Zone or any number of "true" offwidths. The techniques are sufficiently different with respect to requirements (a left-side-in armbar actually requires a lot of "pull" from the right arm, whereas a left-side-in squeeze chimney only requires the right arm for stabilization), that I would say you pretty much need separate rating categories for squeeze chimneys and offwidths.

Time to eat...that is all.
Prod

Trad climber
Aug 8, 2011 - 09:18pm PT
what are you eating?

When are you going at it again?

Prod.
eeyonkee

Trad climber
Golden, CO
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 8, 2011 - 09:28pm PT
Wine, so far. That's all I can get from Elizabeth.

I dunno know about another try. This whole experience was so fun and magical, that another try at it would almost seem vulgar.
Blitzo

Social climber
Earth
Aug 8, 2011 - 09:51pm PT
Nice!
klk

Trad climber
cali
Aug 8, 2011 - 10:02pm PT
not like there's a whole lot of comps.
eeyonkee

Trad climber
Golden, CO
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 8, 2011 - 10:06pm PT
Couldn't help but notice that we were in the same position at this point.
Craig Luebben

bringmedeath

climber
la la land
Aug 8, 2011 - 10:07pm PT
HAHAHAHAAHA, that is awesome!
SteveW

Trad climber
The state of confusion
Aug 8, 2011 - 10:11pm PT

Greg
The next HH a beer's on me too!!!!
eeyonkee

Trad climber
Golden, CO
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 8, 2011 - 10:23pm PT
As far as that last post of mine. Let's not forget...Craig did it. I didn't.
WBraun

climber
Aug 8, 2011 - 10:27pm PT
Looking at the last photo up thread it looks like you have it in the bag.

okie

Trad climber
San Leandro, Ca
Aug 8, 2011 - 10:29pm PT
You have earned your wine, Sir. I hope it is a fine vintage.
Greatness of human spirit: launching into the improbable, the inconceivable...
eeyonkee

Trad climber
Golden, CO
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 8, 2011 - 10:34pm PT
I both ran out of gas and made a tactical error. The tactical error was giving up my heel-toe for a face hold that I subsequently "missed" on my first try to smear it. I knew right away that I erred and that I was GOING DOWN.
Wen

climber
Jackson, WY
Aug 8, 2011 - 10:55pm PT
We were out of town this weekend, and I couldn't wait to get back to a computer today to get your update! What a great story to follow...you've inspired many no doubt.
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Aug 8, 2011 - 10:58pm PT
That mag photo is by Craig of Andy, who told me he (also) failed on the attempt photo-Ed though he got it subsequently.


Nobody has even mentioned Grug bashing his own head in with a # 6, drawing blood and everything!
WBraun

climber
Aug 8, 2011 - 11:11pm PT
Bummer to get shut down that close.

I bet thinner people can get just enough farther inside to gain a slight advantage?

Good effort, you'll be visualizing your errors and doing it .....
eeyonkee

Trad climber
Golden, CO
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 8, 2011 - 11:22pm PT
Yeah, those thinner people...who needs 'em! Appreciate the encouragement, Werner.
Mimi

climber
Aug 8, 2011 - 11:27pm PT
That is so sick. A masterful effort, Greg. Sorry about the shoulder. More chondroitin! Glad you had so much fun.

Very interesting the question you posed about the rating beng far flung. Won't reach a quorom on that thing anytime soon. LOL! Such a nice test piece having such a range for you wide specialists.
Russ Walling

Gym climber
Poofter's Froth, Wyoming
Aug 8, 2011 - 11:53pm PT
Way to give it a go man! Strong effort!
F10

Trad climber
e350 / Bishop
Aug 9, 2011 - 12:40am PT
Proud effort...
MH2

climber
Aug 9, 2011 - 12:40am PT
giving up my heel-toe for a face hold that I subsequently "missed" on my first try to smear it


OH NO! Your mind is going.


Particularly good effort for early-onset dementia.
John Moosie

climber
Beautiful California
Aug 9, 2011 - 12:42am PT
This thread is rated AAA+


drljefe

climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
Aug 9, 2011 - 01:13am PT
Good go, champ!
flyingkiwi1

Trad climber
Seattle WA
Aug 9, 2011 - 01:27am PT
Wow. Thanks for putting the wide back in the http://www!

Ian
GDavis

Social climber
SOL CAL
Aug 9, 2011 - 02:52am PT
Damn, dude, you are burly! Way to get after it!
426

climber
Aug 9, 2011 - 08:51am PT
ountain Project has it at 5.12d, the just-older Vedauwoo guidebook calls it 5.12b, while the new guidebook, which seems to downgrade everything else, has it back at 5.13a. That's a relatively big spread. What's going on?

I never trust Anonymous Cowards (self included), esp those who get the FACTS super mixed up as well as tag ratings on routes they've likely never done.

I remember reading the vintage piece as a young buck by Jaybro then the bad girl laying idle for years until Luebben put the 2nd on it; saw it in Hot Flashes...though, can one say it's truly OS if one has read Jay's article? Being the purist (purest)? sport climber of sorts, even the scraps of beta would negate a true onsight IMO; perhaps there was not a single examination of said piece, though that would be ignoring a brilliant prose of climbing lit fwiw...my precious onsight ruined by the mags:::insert Nelson laugh:::again!

I do find the limited hard wide I've tried (ie flailed) to be more PeRcePtuAllY "size dependent" rather than sequence dependent of face routes-if 2 different sized cragmasters like bart paull and psp are gonna consensus it @ 13, imm it's 13....

in any case awesome effort and +1bump







and moar pix jbro yo

philo

Trad climber
Somewhere halfway over the rainbow
Aug 9, 2011 - 09:09am PT
though, can one say it's truly OS if one has read Jay's article?


You can read everything written about sex and look at thousands of porn pics before you've had sex
but it is still an on-sight when the time comes.
426

climber
Aug 9, 2011 - 09:16am PT
Nah, still a flash*...if youre a purest...

*We'll make an exception for greenies; we nearly always du
Silver

Big Wall climber
Nor Nev
Aug 9, 2011 - 09:29am PT
Sick effort Greg. I see you doing this when your shoulder is better.

Jay are you going Ammon on us and selling the pics and writing a story? How about one more pic please you wide tease.
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Aug 9, 2011 - 09:56am PT
I thought of it, Silver. Don't think there's the market demand ; )
Nah I just have limited electricity / Internet here in vedauwoo. I'll get down to Laramie tomorrow and load up some photos.
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Aug 9, 2011 - 10:05am PT
Pair of hiking shoes left his weekend! Oboze (?) I think they are Elizabeh's? Em and I each thought they belonged to the other.
Mike Friedrichs

Sport climber
City of Salt
Aug 9, 2011 - 10:10am PT
What you don't see from the pictures is just how far Greg went from the big bro until he placed a big cam. He was looking at some serious air. Pure determination. It was an awesome thing to witness from the belay. Courageous effort! It was an honor sir.
Brokedownclimber

Trad climber
Douglas, WY
Aug 9, 2011 - 10:27am PT
And all was doing was cutting and baling hay? Sheesh!

Greg--I'm upping the ante to TWO beers, one for the torn rotator cuff or labrum and one for you.

Rodger
Silver

Big Wall climber
Nor Nev
Aug 9, 2011 - 10:36am PT
I personally find this to be far more interesting than any of the WOS BS Jay and would actually consider buying a rag if I saw Gregs pic on the previous page on the cover.

Looks so hard and all be it strength a major factor I suspect that technique is what will see you to the top.

Cool stuff by all involved look forward to seeing the pics.
eeyonkee

Trad climber
Golden, CO
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 9, 2011 - 10:55am PT
Mike is currently my favorite belayer. He was like a good caddie. I'm very grateful.

Even though I definitely received a bit of beta from both Mike and Jay, for some reaon I put off reading Jaybro's iconic article on Lucille. I'm going to read it tonight.
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Aug 9, 2011 - 11:29am PT
It's hard to maintain beginner's mind.....
High Fructose Corn Spirit

Gym climber
-A community of hairless apes
Aug 9, 2011 - 11:32am PT
Very impressive. Way to represent.
eeyonkee

Trad climber
Golden, CO
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 9, 2011 - 12:09pm PT
Those are Elizabeth's boots, Jaybro. I'm so busy at work right now I can't think of a good plan for getting them back. We'll be in touch on this.
Rick A

climber
Boulder, Colorado
Aug 9, 2011 - 12:44pm PT
Impressive effort, Greg. That photo makes me want to puke, imagining what it took to get there.

You'll get it next time.
Zander

Trad climber
Berkeley
Aug 9, 2011 - 02:14pm PT
Great try Greg!
Thanks for taking us along for the ride.
Zander
Gal

Trad climber
a semi lucid consciousness
Aug 9, 2011 - 08:18pm PT
Just thought I'd post about how fantastic it was to see Greg try for Lucille. He did SO good, and was VERY close-one more move or two and he would have been standing upright. It was really cool to watch. And just wanted to say that the crew (peanut gallery) was awesome. So glad I met everyone, what great vibes! And just to mention, the first pitch just to get to Lucille is really tough, so to imagine what it must have felt like to go beyond that, WOW. Totally great effort, and I'm happy I was able to be there and witness it! -Catherine.
S.Leeper

Sport climber
Pflugerville, Texas
Aug 9, 2011 - 10:43pm PT
speaking of Lucille

http://www.lucy-desi.com/
jammer

climber
Aug 9, 2011 - 11:47pm PT
"Sorry, for bumping my own thread, but the whole experience (plus the three beers I just had) has got me thinking about wide crack ratings. As I understand it, Lucille was originally rated 5.13(a) (by Jaybro and Mike), but is considered possibly as easy as 5.12b (following Craig Luebben's flash?). Mountain Project has it at 5.12d, the just-older Vedauwoo guidebook calls it 5.12b, while the new guidebook, which seems to downgrade everything else, has it back at 5.13a/b. That's a relatively big spread. What's going on?"



In the spirit of objective criticism, I think this one just won't get downgraded because....well, I'm damned if I know. AFAIK, Lucille has had more onsights/flashes than redpoints, and from what I understand only one or possibly two of those folks has onsighted/flashed the grade, or even within a letter of the grade, at any discipline of rock climbing around the time they did Lucille. Most of the people that I have heard of onsighting/flashing the thing have never even onsighted/flashed another 5.12 OW, before or after. A friend of mine did it third try and said it was 5.11, his reasoning being that every other 5.11 or harder OW he did that season took him as many or more tries and felt as hard or harder. Craig shared a similar sentiment after onsighting/flashing it, saying he had done 5.12 OW's that felt harder. Nonetheless, somehow this one remains Vedauwoo's "A list terstpiece", and somehow the only opinions that seem to count are the ones who called it 5.13- or harder. Perhaps it is the legendary status this route recieved given that it was the longtime project of such a masterful offwidth climber who wrote such a captivating article about it (still love that read, Jay, BTW, and I mean that from the heart). Who knows what the deal is? All I know is when I see that kind of thing happen to other routes or boulder problems, those routes and boulder problems have a tendency to get downgraded, and significantly.

On a brighter note, Greg, I'm glad you were able to have such a memorable experience on a route. I can certainly relate. For me the route was Fiddler on the Roof, at Fremont Canyon. I remember sitting on the rim of the canyon flipping through the guide when I saw the route description for it, and I remember thinking how mind bending such a route must be. Having such an esteem for the route gave it a special significance when I finally got good enough to rap down in there and try it. It makes me happy to see others chasing their inspirations :)

As for OW grades, I agree with you Greg. Furthermore, I would say that it would make good sense to split up different lengths of climbs like what the french system does with traverses/routes/boulders. Personally, I have a really hard time comparing endurance vs. power vs. power endurance.

skykilo

Trad climber
Vancouver, BC
Aug 10, 2011 - 12:54am PT
Thanks for the awesome thread and nice try, G. I got put in my place on both Pipeline and Wild Turkey at Squamish and you can call me "a big fan." Hope your shoulder heals real well.
goatboy smellz

climber
Nederland
Aug 10, 2011 - 10:06am PT
Mike is currently my favorite belayer.

Francois will be crushed, good thing he's not on ST.


The smear before the fall.




mooser

Trad climber
seattle
Aug 10, 2011 - 10:13am PT
Greg, you're a beast! Send or not, I'm impressed.
eeyonkee

Trad climber
Golden, CO
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 10, 2011 - 10:25am PT
Fair enough, Jammer. I suppose the elephant in the room is the fact that I got as close as I did. I think it says a lot about Jaybro that he was pulling for me, even though success on my part might cloud the picture on the ratings.

Skykilo - Thanks. You're the first person I've heard of who's been on Wild Turkey. I wouldn't even know where to find it.

Thanks, Mooser!
philo

Trad climber
Somewhere halfway over the rainbow
Aug 10, 2011 - 10:42am PT
Eeyonkee, your success would in no way cloud the ratings. You are a beast! If anything your near success reinforces the fierceness of Lucille's reputation. When you are ready you will send.
SteveW

Trad climber
The state of confusion
Aug 10, 2011 - 12:35pm PT

Dern, Greg, that looks like a long way from your protection!!!!
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
USA Carson city Nev.
Aug 10, 2011 - 12:45pm PT
Lucille's the Gal, and a mean one at that

she will spit you out and youll go splat

Many have tried but most will fail

to tame Lucille you must lift her veil

Its the WYDE daunting crack of her wicked smile

the flesh from climbers sets in a pile

Youll skitter and scrape for an inch or two

but its up to Lucille for you to get through

Shes a fickle wench this much we've known

Many a climber of which shes thrown

So here's to Lucille, long may she last

To be such a crack is what makes her the blast...





jammer

climber
Aug 10, 2011 - 02:43pm PT
Sorry for the thread drift, it's just that I find the ratings on these things interesting to talk about. The one problem I have with OW grades currently is that we are doing ourselves a disservice in terms of quantifying our accomplishments when we use the same grading scale that is used for other forms of rock climbing, and call our OW's stuff like 5.11. To me, it is basically posing the question of how you compare a long and sustained pull with a big power spike. An example of this would be comparing your effort on something like Big Pink, where you have to pull the entire way up the climb, to something like Bobcat Logic at Wild Iris, where the difficulty is in certain crux pulls. Either we do what Greg Suggests and just grade them on two completely unrelated scales as in apples and oranges where there is no conversion between apples and oranges (which is not what we currently do) or we try to quantify the difficulty relative to other forms of rock climbing (which is also not what we currently do). Not that anyone cares, but I just thought I would throw that in.
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Aug 10, 2011 - 03:07pm PT
Nice Ron!

Jam, the rating was based on a comparison to the Owl roof and Paisano, the only games in town atTthe time.13a is the consensus of people who have led it (including Craig. though he thought differently at first, he did subsequently,tell Pamela and myself that he agreed with the .13a rating) A rating is just a number, get on it and see what you think for yourself (though it sounds like you've already decided ;) )until then it's all hypothetical.
jammer

climber
Aug 10, 2011 - 03:26pm PT
No, Jay, having never tried the route I have no personal opinion one way or another. I simply choose not to ignore actual factual events that have transpired, and what they obviously imply. Remember, your opinion is one among many.
jammer

climber
Aug 10, 2011 - 03:36pm PT
I think it is also worth noting that when I compare something like Big Pink or Trip Master Monkey with OW's elsewhere, I find that either climbs like those are severely underrated or that the climbs elsewhere are severely overrated. It is interesting to note that you intended this to be rated honestly compared to OW's elsewhere, which is not a universal theme at Vedauwoo. Not that OW's anywhere are necessarily honestly rated...
Elcapinyoazz

Social climber
Joshua Tree
Aug 10, 2011 - 03:43pm PT
Might be a good place to put together a list of the folks who've actually sucessfully climbed the route on lead. The ones that come to mind are:

Jay
Craig
Andy
Pamela
Steve

I suspect Justin knows of a few to add.

I recall that Leubben quote about "I've done 5.12s that were harder", but I can think of lots of routes that seem miles harder than others rated several letters harder...sustained pukers vs. boulder problem in the sky rigs.

Pasiano and Owl are both very short affairs and essentially boulder problems a pitch off the deck. They're both only about 7 (Owl) to 10 (Paisano) moves through the biz and more about beta and technical issues than staying power. I'd think it would feel waaaay harder to get up Lucille than either of those, from an effort standpoint.
eeyonkee

Trad climber
Golden, CO
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 10, 2011 - 03:44pm PT
Sort of wish that I'd never brought up the whole ratings thing (another reason to cut back on those beers). I'm more of a comedy guy.

Edit - I will say that I think Vedauwoo ratings are for the most part very stiff. I think Big Pink is definitely 5.12.
Larry

Trad climber
Bisbee
Aug 10, 2011 - 04:28pm PT
>when I compare something like Big Pink or Trip Master Monkey

Back then, Bob would rate his climbs as low as he could without breaking out in laughter when he told someone the rating.
Mike Friedrichs

Sport climber
City of Salt
Aug 10, 2011 - 04:45pm PT
The issue of hand/food size, endurance vs. power, etc are hardly unique to wide cracks. In fact I would argue that a flared squeeze chimney is probably less size dependent than most other sizes of crack climbing. One just has to go deeper when you're smaller.

I've certainly found offwidths in Utah and Colorado to be easier for the grad than at Vedauwoo, where I learned to climb.

When Layne Kopischka was writing one of the early guidebooks to Vedauwoo, Rob Kelman did every 5.8 without doing other grades, then every 5.9 then every 5.10a. He did these when they were at or near the top of his ability. He found that some of the 5.9s were dramatically more difficult than others. Seems an experiment like that is probably as close to objectivity as we're likely to get.
MH2

climber
Aug 10, 2011 - 06:14pm PT
Thank you, skykilo. Could you, here or elsewhere, tell us something about Wild Turkey? I know where it is and how to get to it and look at it every time I go to Squamish, and point out to my partner that no one is on it. I have heard several accounts that call into question the 11a rating. Probably the least-climbed 3 star route around here. Closest I've been was meeting Gord Ross, who took the picture of John Furneaux "on Wild Turkey." That, and noticing from the top that one could lower in and self-belay it.

And Grug has no idea where Wild Turkey is? That advances the senility hypothesis.
(He did the FA).
jammer

climber
Aug 10, 2011 - 06:30pm PT
Will, I have heard of some fellow from boulder (not Steve or Bart, don't know if Bart followed Steve or led), but I only heard that once by I can't remeber who as it was some offhand comment. Perhaps Andy would know more about that. The other fellow to add to the list is Matt Lisenby, who I heard from either Andy or Brian Gilmore, onsighted it. He is the one who has done onsights, or near onsights, at the 13- level around the time he did Lucille, at least according to Andy (no, I don't disbelieve Andy, just not my personal first hand knowledge). Also of note is that those onsights were on other cracks, most notably and from it's reputation impressively, Annimal Magnetism (jealous!).

So from your list of folks:

Jay: decade long project, and he has done practically every hard OW out there so this one is a bit of a curve ball. His work on it over that time, according to his wonderfully written story, was quite intermittent with years long gaps at points. Also, what a line to wrap your mind around! Ridiculous!

Craig: onsight/flash. Implied it was more like mid end or low end 5.12

Andy: 3rd try, called it 5.11, probably sandbagging to the level of other OW's in Vedauwoo.

Pamela: onsight, and despite never onsighting anywhere near the grade to my knowledge (despite claims to the contrary, I avoid this person as well as news of her as much as possible so I must admit my knowledge of her climbing exploits is limited), uprated it to 5.13. If I am wrong and she really goes around regularly onsighting at or near the grade, please correct me. It is also worth noting that she did it with totally different beta than everyone else.

Steve: onsight/flash. Apparently confirms Pam's 5.13 rating.

Matt: onsight/flash. Probably could have onsighted/flashed it even if it was 5.13.


Ratings are a touchy subject. I am actually glad you brought it up, Greg. Grades are a tool, and for that tool to be useful, they need to be at least somewhat accurate. Also, Mike, I agree with your assesment of a flared squeeze, or any uniform flare, not being terribly size dependent. I also really like the objectivity of Kelman's experiment. It is unfortunate he was only able to pursue that experiment through about 10d. I also agree that the issue of size/power/endurance is not unique to wide cracks. Specifically I was thinking about when I do six or seven move problems that are at my limit and try to compare them to thirty and forty move problems that are also at my limit. Is it that they are both at my limit that makes them equal? I think not because I can think of numerous counterexamples: Someone who can do 100+ foot 5.13's but can't equally manage boulder problems harder than V6, or the V10 boulderer who can't get up a long and pumpy 5.12. It just breaks down. That is why I like the apples and oranges approach, because it get's closer to the truth.



426

climber
Aug 11, 2011 - 08:40am PT
Hrmpf, from the 'tone' of your post jammer, it would seem that you are/have determined that Luz is "5.12" (whatever its a number eh)...but if one has beef imo it's all theoretical ruminations until you du it and give ite a "personal grade"....on your 8a scorecard


If I have misconstrued; mea culpa...
eeyonkee

Trad climber
Golden, CO
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 11, 2011 - 09:55am PT
MH2, technically I don't think you call it senility if you've always been that way (just ask my climbing partners). I only vaguely remember Wild Turkey. I actually wanted to name it Midnight Movie. I had thought we had originally rated it 5.10c, but there's 1 50/50 chance I'm just remembering wrong, I suppose. I believe it was the only FA I ever did with George Manson, one of the most charismatic people I ever met.
jammer

climber
Aug 12, 2011 - 12:20am PT
426, I just don't like this kind of BS in my backyard. This is Vedauwoo, not fairywonderland.
Mighty Hiker

climber
Vancouver, B.C.
Aug 12, 2011 - 01:14am PT
Wild Turkey is given 5.10d in the 1980 guidebook. Not that you'd necessarily want to rely on it.
MH2

climber
Aug 12, 2011 - 03:40am PT
"technically I don't think you call it senility if you've always been that way"


Yes, sensu stricto.*


Wow! That George Manson? Il miglior fabbro? I came across fragments of his charisma in Ontario.

And yes, again. Both your guide, Anders, and Kevin's earlier one rate Wild Turkey 10d.


* first known use in 1902 - what kind of Latin is that?
goatboy smellz

climber
Nederland
Aug 12, 2011 - 09:49am PT
I just don't like this kind of BS in my backyard. This is Vedauwoo, not fairywonderland.

We're not splitting atoms here, climbing is a free form sport, very size dependent, especially in cracks. Go and sit up in that cave and it will be obvious to you why there is a little diversity in the grading.
Elcapinyoazz

Social climber
Joshua Tree
Aug 12, 2011 - 10:46am PT
This is Vedauwoo, not fairywonderland

Almost t-shirt slogan worthy, or bumpersticker or something. My first time there it felt like a fairy wonderland...magical. The thin crisp air, brilliant lichen contrasting with the almost pink hued rock, domes amongst the aspens and pines, the rich history of flares and wide cracks.

Damn, now I'm all wound up. Think I'll surf over to expedia and see what a plane ticket will cost me to Laramie.
scuffy b

climber
dissected alluvial deposits, late Pleistocene
Aug 12, 2011 - 11:38am PT
"I just don't like this kind of BS in my backyard."

Do you mean the BS of people having different opinions on the rating of a
climb, or is there some other kind of BS that i can't see?
em kn0t

Trad climber
isle of wyde
Aug 13, 2011 - 05:24pm PT
Think I'll surf over to expedia and see what a plane ticket will cost me to Laramie.

Cheap flight to Denver Int'l then GreenRide shuttle to Laramie (runs 4x a day) is an option that has worked a couple of times for me.

Go for it!
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Aug 13, 2011 - 08:25pm PT
Yeah!!
altieboo

Boulder climber
Livermore, Ca
Oct 19, 2011 - 05:03pm PT
BUMP for the sake of a bad ass thread and for later personal reference.

Philo, I will fill you in later as I will be asking you questions until you kick me out of the basement.

Hartouni, I need your psyche...

eeyonkee, you looking for a partner for a few things. Or perhaps someone to laugh at?
philo

Trad climber
Somewhere halfway over the rainbow
Oct 19, 2011 - 05:09pm PT
Uh Oh!!! sounds like CLIMBING mag has tasked the youth with exploring the joys of the wide!!!!!!

Yee Haah welcome to Collie a Rad oh!
altieboo

Boulder climber
Livermore, Ca
Oct 19, 2011 - 05:11pm PT
Something along those lines..
philo

Trad climber
Somewhere halfway over the rainbow
Oct 19, 2011 - 05:12pm PT
Get back to work and earn what they aren't paying you Schwagboy. lol
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Oct 19, 2011 - 10:35pm PT
eeyonkee is probably recovering... and won't be back on the project for a while!
Prod

Trad climber
Oct 19, 2011 - 10:49pm PT
eeyonkee is probably recovering... and won't be back on the project for a while!

I hear he's been watching sports on TV and drinking beer in pink fizzy slippers... and that 5#'s he lost... I think he found it.

Prod.
eeyonkee

Trad climber
Golden, CO
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 23, 2011 - 09:26am PT
Just had dinner with Prod last night - I hadn't seen the recent posts. altieboo - I'd certainly climb with you, but I'm out for a while. I really did exacerbate an existing rotator cuff tear during Lucille, and require surgery. The MRI showed a complete tear. Chicken wings!

Hope to be back climbing by Spring.
Crimpergirl

Sport climber
Boulder, Colorado!
Oct 23, 2011 - 11:13am PT
Keep us updated on your chicken wing surgery. And join us for the HH. We are a table of the walking wounded - but we have fun nonetheless!
philo

Trad climber
Somewhere halfway over the rainbow
Oct 23, 2011 - 11:30am PT
Mmmm Chicken Wings dipped in ranch dressing, Yummmm.
Oh wait, that's not what you were referring to was it?

When are you scheduled for surgery? Good luck and let us know if you need anything.
SteveW

Trad climber
The state of confusion
Oct 23, 2011 - 11:32am PT

Grug--that sucks big time!!!! I hope you heal up soon!
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Oct 23, 2011 - 12:25pm PT
Do you have a surgery date Grug?


... I have more routes for you....


and, Altieboo, you really do want to climb with Eeyonkee! He's more fun than a barrel of Monkeys!
eeyonkee

Trad climber
Golden, CO
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 23, 2011 - 07:02pm PT
Hey, thanks for the concern, all. I've been so buried in work I can't take the time for PT just yet. I've already got an hour long one way commute. I'm thinking this upcoming rotator cuff surgery rehab should be easier to navigate through every day life (i.e., drive) compared to the first one I had in 2006, in that; 1) it's my left hand and arm I can't use and, 2) I don't drive a stick shift anymore.
Brunosafari

Boulder climber
OR
Oct 23, 2011 - 08:08pm PT
ya wanna go surfin'?
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Dec 21, 2011 - 11:23pm PT
surf on over to vedauwoo. I heard Lucille just got it's first winter onsight free solo

hmm appears that beta was premature....
SteveW

Trad climber
The state of confusion
Dec 21, 2011 - 11:35pm PT

In the snow?
dogtown

Trad climber
Cheyenne, Wyoming and Marshall Islands atoll.
Dec 21, 2011 - 11:49pm PT
Hey, Jay
Onsite, Wow! Impressive. This would have been a good winter for it, not much snow this year so far but it has been a bitter wet cold the past week and snowing now.

Merry Christmas.



Sonic

Trad climber
Roaming the South, Merica
Dec 17, 2012 - 04:36pm PT
Winter Wide Bump
Messages 1 - 463 of total 463 in this topic
Return to Forum List
Post a Reply
 
Our Guidebooks
Check 'em out!
SuperTopo Guidebooks


Try a free sample topo!

 
SuperTopo on the Web

Review Categories
Recent Route Beta
Recent Gear Reviews