Road to Lucille

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Messages 1 - 20 of total 471 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
eeyonkee

Trad climber
Golden, CO
Topic Author's Original Post - Feb 14, 2011 - 05:02pm PT
The one in Vedauwoo...the one that Jaybro did the FA of. Now,(Jaybro) say you were me, mostly over the hill but, um, willing, and you wanted to get ready for a flash ascent of Lucille. Here's my list of things to do. Am I missing anything?
 Start doing something to get in shape, like situps or pushups or something.
 Stop drinking so damn much beer.
 Visualization, visualization, visualization!
 Ask yourself, what would Bob Scarpelli do?
 Do the three offwidths in the Boulder area for practice

scuffy b

climber
Three feet higher
Feb 14, 2011 - 05:03pm PT
You already started thinking about the first two steps, right?
eeyonkee

Trad climber
Golden, CO
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 14, 2011 - 05:07pm PT
Current plan? Start with 3 and 4, and then ease into the other stuff.
MisterE

Social climber
MEEP MEEP
Feb 14, 2011 - 05:09pm PT
Inversion boots are a good way to train, according to some 5.12 OW climber here on the board...

A great goal, Grug!
scuffy b

climber
Three feet higher
Feb 14, 2011 - 05:13pm PT
Ten or fifteen laps of Greg's Crack within an hour might help.
Up and down the first steep part of Mother Superior from the lie-down
start...
Brokedownclimber

Trad climber
Douglas, WY
Feb 14, 2011 - 05:18pm PT
Need a belayer? Need a photographer? I'm available.
eeyonkee

Trad climber
Golden, CO
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 14, 2011 - 05:20pm PT
Scuffy, you make me see that I wasn't explicit enough. I mean things that I can do that are relatively EASY! Like sleeping an extra two hours a day or eating some ginkgobilobanuts.
Peter Haan

Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
Feb 14, 2011 - 05:27pm PT
Don't we need photos, Pilgrims, to go up any higher here?
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Feb 14, 2011 - 05:29pm PT
Most roads lead away from Lucille.
steelmnkey

climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
Feb 14, 2011 - 05:29pm PT
I didn't even know ginkobilobas had nuts!
scuffy b

climber
Three feet higher
Feb 14, 2011 - 05:31pm PT
I can't remember why you want to eat those ginkobiloba nuts?
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Feb 14, 2011 - 05:32pm PT
If inverted, Bob Scarpelli would fall on his head if he were in your shoes, Greg. He's like a foot shorter than you. He wears the same sportiva sizes I do.

Someone else here asked me about this recently, and what I told him will work for you. Since you guys are over six feet, Lucille is unlikely to be an inversion problem for you. I didn't invert the three times I've done it. General fitness, especially core fitness, is key. The ability to not puke during bursts of anaerobic horizontal (Bruegel) chickenwinging in between aerobic tunneling at almost max V02 at 8,000' worked for me.
I'd do as many of the harder OW's at vedauwoo first; Squat (for the pivot) Muscle and fitness, New maps of hell, short but wide, right tube etc. As many laps on Jay's solo (Bob's name) as you can.
When i finally got it, though I was living in Tempe at essentially sea level, I'd been backpacking in the Bighorns for a week followed by three weeks in Vedauwoo, never getting lower than Laramie, 7200.' I was jogging and mountain biking some, then, but it was before I got seriously into running.
I drank beer then but was pretty skinny.


Now I'm going to strap on my inversion cuffs and weight vest, to train for other offwidth projects...

"mostly over the hill but, um, willing," - in some ways I AM you, Grug!
scuffy b

climber
Three feet higher
Feb 14, 2011 - 05:33pm PT
Also, I think, Grug, for Lucille you don't want to ask what Scarpelli
would do...he'd climb something else instead
eeyonkee

Trad climber
Golden, CO
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 14, 2011 - 05:35pm PT
Hey. I'M the one asking for advice here, aren't I? What the frick do I know about ginko products? IF I KNEW, I WOULDN'T be asking now WOULD I? Something that you can ingest that will help out your offwidth climbing. That's what we're talking about here.
Prod

Trad climber
Feb 14, 2011 - 05:37pm PT
Aw man, that is right up your alley! I hope I can make it that weekend.

Prod.
scuffy b

climber
Three feet higher
Feb 14, 2011 - 05:37pm PT
I see, it's an ingestion problem. I thought...
Brokedownclimber

Trad climber
Douglas, WY
Feb 14, 2011 - 05:37pm PT
We prolly need another Boulder HH to assist you in procrastination?
eeyonkee

Trad climber
Golden, CO
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 14, 2011 - 05:44pm PT
Hmmmm. So no video game or something I can play, huh? I had a feeling this might the case - you know, that it would be hard. Oh well, thanks for the advice, Jaybro. I'm already seeing myself wake up tomorrow morning and immediately doing pushups or eating oatmeal or something. I'll keep you posted.
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Feb 14, 2011 - 05:51pm PT
You can do it Grug! and so can that other tall guy who asked me about it recently. he should chime in or risk 'outing' hee hee.

Keep your eyes on the prize!
Credit: Jaybro
scuffy b

climber
Three feet higher
Feb 14, 2011 - 05:53pm PT
No video games for you.

"Yeah, woulda fired that little roof thing no problem,
except for my gamy thumb I got saving the Free World on my Gameboy..."
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