Road to Lucille

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Messages 381 - 400 of total 442 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
F10

Trad climber
e350 / Bishop
Aug 9, 2011 - 12:40am PT
Proud effort...
MH2

climber
Aug 9, 2011 - 12:40am PT
giving up my heel-toe for a face hold that I subsequently "missed" on my first try to smear it


OH NO! Your mind is going.


Particularly good effort for early-onset dementia.
John Moosie

climber
Beautiful California
Aug 9, 2011 - 12:42am PT
This thread is rated AAA+


drljefe

climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
Aug 9, 2011 - 01:13am PT
Good go, champ!
flyingkiwi1

Trad climber
Seattle WA
Aug 9, 2011 - 01:27am PT
Wow. Thanks for putting the wide back in the http://www!

Ian
GDavis

Social climber
SOL CAL
Aug 9, 2011 - 02:52am PT
Damn, dude, you are burly! Way to get after it!
426

climber
Aug 9, 2011 - 08:51am PT
ountain Project has it at 5.12d, the just-older Vedauwoo guidebook calls it 5.12b, while the new guidebook, which seems to downgrade everything else, has it back at 5.13a. That's a relatively big spread. What's going on?

I never trust Anonymous Cowards (self included), esp those who get the FACTS super mixed up as well as tag ratings on routes they've likely never done.

I remember reading the vintage piece as a young buck by Jaybro then the bad girl laying idle for years until Luebben put the 2nd on it; saw it in Hot Flashes...though, can one say it's truly OS if one has read Jay's article? Being the purist (purest)? sport climber of sorts, even the scraps of beta would negate a true onsight IMO; perhaps there was not a single examination of said piece, though that would be ignoring a brilliant prose of climbing lit fwiw...my precious onsight ruined by the mags:::insert Nelson laugh:::again!

I do find the limited hard wide I've tried (ie flailed) to be more PeRcePtuAllY "size dependent" rather than sequence dependent of face routes-if 2 different sized cragmasters like bart paull and psp are gonna consensus it @ 13, imm it's 13....

in any case awesome effort and +1bump







and moar pix jbro yo

philo

Trad climber
Somewhere halfway over the rainbow
Aug 9, 2011 - 09:09am PT
though, can one say it's truly OS if one has read Jay's article?


You can read everything written about sex and look at thousands of porn pics before you've had sex
but it is still an on-sight when the time comes.
426

climber
Aug 9, 2011 - 09:16am PT
Nah, still a flash*...if youre a purest...

*We'll make an exception for greenies; we nearly always du
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Aug 9, 2011 - 09:56am PT
I thought of it, Silver. Don't think there's the market demand ; )
Nah I just have limited electricity / Internet here in vedauwoo. I'll get down to Laramie tomorrow and load up some photos.
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Aug 9, 2011 - 10:05am PT
Pair of hiking shoes left his weekend! Oboze (?) I think they are Elizabeh's? Em and I each thought they belonged to the other.
Mike Friedrichs

Sport climber
City of Salt
Aug 9, 2011 - 10:10am PT
What you don't see from the pictures is just how far Greg went from the big bro until he placed a big cam. He was looking at some serious air. Pure determination. It was an awesome thing to witness from the belay. Courageous effort! It was an honor sir.
Brokedownclimber

Trad climber
Douglas, WY
Aug 9, 2011 - 10:27am PT
And all was doing was cutting and baling hay? Sheesh!

Greg--I'm upping the ante to TWO beers, one for the torn rotator cuff or labrum and one for you.

Rodger
eeyonkee

Trad climber
Golden, CO
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 9, 2011 - 10:55am PT
Mike is currently my favorite belayer. He was like a good caddie. I'm very grateful.

Even though I definitely received a bit of beta from both Mike and Jay, for some reaon I put off reading Jaybro's iconic article on Lucille. I'm going to read it tonight.
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Aug 9, 2011 - 11:29am PT
It's hard to maintain beginner's mind.....
High Fructose Corn Spirit

Gym climber
-A community of hairless apes
Aug 9, 2011 - 11:32am PT
Very impressive. Way to represent.
eeyonkee

Trad climber
Golden, CO
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 9, 2011 - 12:09pm PT
Those are Elizabeth's boots, Jaybro. I'm so busy at work right now I can't think of a good plan for getting them back. We'll be in touch on this.
Rick A

climber
Boulder, Colorado
Aug 9, 2011 - 12:44pm PT
Impressive effort, Greg. That photo makes me want to puke, imagining what it took to get there.

You'll get it next time.
Zander

Trad climber
Berkeley
Aug 9, 2011 - 02:14pm PT
Great try Greg!
Thanks for taking us along for the ride.
Zander
Gal

Trad climber
a semi lucid consciousness
Aug 9, 2011 - 08:18pm PT
Just thought I'd post about how fantastic it was to see Greg try for Lucille. He did SO good, and was VERY close-one more move or two and he would have been standing upright. It was really cool to watch. And just wanted to say that the crew (peanut gallery) was awesome. So glad I met everyone, what great vibes! And just to mention, the first pitch just to get to Lucille is really tough, so to imagine what it must have felt like to go beyond that, WOW. Totally great effort, and I'm happy I was able to be there and witness it! -Catherine.
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