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Prezwoodz
climber
Anchorage
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Feb 20, 2011 - 03:20am PT
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BS. You just picked up a phone book and called the Unknown first ascent hotline?
What is your problem with me anyway? Why lie to try and make your point? Seriously I mean you've been a pain for so long I figure most people at least don't like to hold onto anger that long. You have pissed off almost every climbing partner you have here.
ontheedge I wouldn't have thought so either.
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mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
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Feb 20, 2011 - 03:28am PT
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Why don't you guys meet up and talk about it over a climb or replacement.
Probably have more in common than remembering bolt counts.
Both of you:
climb when it is 23degrees out.
live in AK
know how to chop bolts.
are members on the taco.
ice fish
ride snowmobiles
beat seals
eat shellfish
?
Give us a TR when your done.
Edit: Unknown first ascent hotline
BWhaahahHAHAHAH!!! New Route Name, you guys are all set up!!!!
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Prezwoodz
climber
Anchorage
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Feb 20, 2011 - 03:30am PT
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mucci I like your style. Although I don't beat any seals, icefish or what was the last one again?... :)
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johnkelley
climber
Anchorage Alaska
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Feb 20, 2011 - 03:32am PT
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Sorry, a half dozen grade IV/VI FA's a year is all I can do. You are lost and I'm sorry for you.
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Prezwoodz
climber
Anchorage
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Feb 20, 2011 - 03:35am PT
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John there really comes a point when it doesn't matter what you put up. I don't care how hard you climb. If you are sorry for me you should be, I have to put up with you stalking me.
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johnkelley
climber
Anchorage Alaska
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Feb 20, 2011 - 03:47am PT
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I guess you pissed me off? Stop retrobolting and I'll disappear again but I guess I'll have to put up with you making a buck off of what I do in my free time?
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Prezwoodz
climber
Anchorage
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Feb 20, 2011 - 03:50am PT
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You really haven't been listening have you? 5 bolts over 7 months ago. None since, already decided not to. Not because of you but won't be doing any more regardless. Get it?
Don't know why I pissed you off since you are so busy putting up first ascents on big unnamed peaks and what not. Can't believe you let the Seward Highway get you so upset.
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johnkelley
climber
Anchorage Alaska
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Feb 20, 2011 - 04:06am PT
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I'm a Traditionalist dummy.
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Prezwoodz
climber
Anchorage
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Feb 20, 2011 - 04:13am PT
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BS on that to, it doesn't mean you have to suck as a person.
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wildone
climber
Troy, MT
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Feb 20, 2011 - 04:17am PT
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Just for the record, if we're talking about the rock on the seward highway, for those of you who haven't seen it, it's a scruffy little band of choss. Really long.
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Prezwoodz
climber
Anchorage
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Feb 20, 2011 - 04:22am PT
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Yes we are talking about the rock on the Seward Highway which makes this about the most ridiculous and overtalked conversation possible!
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Prezwoodz
climber
Anchorage
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Feb 20, 2011 - 04:59am PT
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No ASCA bolts have been used for anything but replacing older bolts. I want to make very sure that you understand that. You are trying to stop me from replacing bolts when nobody else is for no other reason then you are pissed off for some reason. I hope you are prepared to step up and replace them yourself if you continue this attack.
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johnkelley
climber
Anchorage Alaska
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Feb 20, 2011 - 05:10am PT
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Your right it is just lttle scruffy bands of choss. One would think that in a state where 99 plus % of peaks are virgin that one would find something better to do then add retrobolts to 20 year old climbs and then bitch like a little kid when they get the axe. Like I said he's lost.
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johnkelley
climber
Anchorage Alaska
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Feb 20, 2011 - 05:17am PT
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I'm pissed because of your retrobolting, nothing else. I'm also pissed at the ASCA for giving you bolts. I know it's hard for you to stomach but that is really the beginning and ending of it.
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Captain...or Skully
climber
The Seas of Stone.
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Feb 20, 2011 - 08:11am PT
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Evil Prez? Sinister intent? Part one of your evil plan of World Domination?
Bwha-Ha-Ha-Ha-Ha-ha-Ha!!!!!!
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Scott Thelen
Trad climber
Truckee, Ca
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Feb 20, 2011 - 12:17pm PT
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Your fighting over sh#t rock and I love it.
Keep it coming.
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Prezwoodz
climber
Anchorage
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Feb 20, 2011 - 02:08pm PT
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You have been an jerk to me for the last 3 or 4 years. Remember the multiple times I've banned you and your aliases from alaska mountain forum? So what's the real problem here? You are wrong about me and will eat your words. I don't think people here are stupid and the longer you post the more they will see you for what you are as most other places already do.
So what is your real problem with me. Let's get this over with as I am tired of dealing with you.
Scott he is trying to make it so I can no longer get ASCA replacements. I have replaced around 80 bad bolts here since October. To me that's possibly saving someones life. It's something I take pride in and hate to have it smeared.
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johnkelley
climber
Anchorage Alaska
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Feb 20, 2011 - 03:26pm PT
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You shouldn't get any bolts from the ASCA. Retrobolting is in contradiction to their mission statement. Shame on the for giving you anything.
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bigdamnjohnson
climber
palmer, alaska
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Feb 20, 2011 - 03:33pm PT
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If you were interested in saving somebodys life, then you should probably encourage people NOT to climb on those shitty ass road cuts. The only thing you are doing by replacing bolts on the seward highway is wasting time and resources that should be directed elsewhere. You haven’t been climbing around here long enough to see it, but believe it or not the highway is falling down, as evidenced by multiple pieces of “rock” with bolts still in, being cleaned off the side of the road by heavy equipment. New bolts doesn’t change the rock quality or the vicious freeze thaw cycles we experience here.
If you were interested in “saving someones life” then you start by telling people not to climb on the highway. If you really want to replace some bolts, howabout the rusty ¼ in a watercourse that protects a 30ft 5.11 runout to the anchor on “catch the wave” in hatcher pass. Yeah that bolt. The one that isn’t mentioned in your guide book because you’ve never set shoe to that route. If you ask me providing 100% not accurate beta for dangerous routes because you were too lazy to climb it yourself is criminal negligence. If you want to “save someones life” don’t publish inaccurate 20 year old information that you plagerized, and assumed was correct, when in fact, it is horribly WRONG. And don’t start renaming routes and crags when you cant find a facebook blog in the last year about it. Your dishonesty and unwillingness to admit to your mistakes and inaccuracies doesn’t make you more credible. Denial is not just a river in Egypt dood.
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Prezwoodz
climber
Anchorage
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Feb 20, 2011 - 04:02pm PT
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Well this is just getting interesting isn't it.
Well its obvious you know who I am so lets stop hiding behind aliases and if your going to say something why don't you tell me who you are. Since this is your first post here I don't give you any credit.
Hatcher has been under some pretty huge mounds of snow. It has been hard to rebolt there since I only started this winter although I was going to go to Hatcher Pass and start here in the next few weeks. Why don't you go count every bolt out there yourself before I start so you can see that I am only replacing bolts. I renamed no routes in the book that is why there are at least 100 routes with "Unknown" as the name and "Unknown" as the first ascent. If you are unwilling to share your information then at least don't throw a stupid hissy fit when your routes are put down as unknown. I could easily have renamed every route in the book but decided not to so that those who put up the route would have the possibility of stepping forward and filling up the gaps. It is your choice if you don't want to and I didn't hold that against anyone but what do you expect at that point?
I will admit my mistakes when I believe they have been made. I have no problem with that. I did not plagiarize information from 20 years ago. If I had wanted to do that then I could easily have done so with permission from the authors of First Steps. However I did not. Try to lay off that valley weed, its making you paranoid.
It is true that some areas of the Seward Highway are falling apart. Look at Weeping Wall, that area is a disaster. What I am finding though is that it is becoming more and more popular with climbers in the Anchorage area. The Scar is years out of print and super hard to get, most people don't even seem to know about it these days. I came to the dilemma of should I or should I not include the Highway in the next updated book. I decided that I should because there are some fun routes along it and some safe places to climb. I also really enjoy myself on some good highway days because I just love getting out and climbing. I have been trying to replace these routes that I believe are generally safe. I don't think any wall is immune from rockfall.
Mighty Hiker - Apparently you can't even replace a bolt here without massive amounts of scrutiny. However I think the main problem I am having is because I am actually putting myself out there. I am not rebolting these routes and hiding behind an alias or just "not telling anyone". I think if you are going to do something you should stand behind it.
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