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johnkelley
climber
Anchorage Alaska
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Sep 29, 2015 - 09:05am PT
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Just put a wrench of every bolt on Kelsey's mess and turn it to the right until the bolt snaps off... It's easy
Keep the hangers for your own projects
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couchmaster
climber
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Sep 29, 2015 - 09:40am PT
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John has it^^^. Then you tap the stud back down a tad, and put the grey epoxy putty over it. Bamm, gone/invisible. Healyje even has elevated it to an art form where he pusses a brass brush onto the epoxy to slightly rough up the surface and thus match the rock. The guy could have been an art restorer:-)
Dudes come back: no bolts - confusion ensues. Later they reinstall, so you rinse and repeat. Pretty soon, your point will be noticed and perhaps some personal reflection will occur on their end. No problemo and no boltos. You think yammering on the internet will do anything? NO is the correct answer. Not only is Johns solution the answer, but I suspect that via this method you will feel much better by taking action (instead of getting idiots like me to crack wise and get yer blood pressure up) as well. Email them and let them know 2 things. 1st) They pissed you off and they ain't getting the hangers back. Ever. They are your now. 2nd) If they do it again you will send the same email and add to your hanger pile.
Get cracking boyz. Don't screw up the rock - get it clean, let us know how it goes and bring some self satisfied photos of your work so we can all laugh and pat your backs (virtual mode of course).
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johnkelley
climber
Anchorage Alaska
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Sep 29, 2015 - 10:00am PT
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It's the method I've used to clean up Kelsey's messes in the past. Works good. Doesn't damage the stone...
People had things like this to say about it.
"Whoever did the chopping did a fine job, as I couldn't see where any bolts had been placed, though I didn't put that much effort into the inspection".
Here's another...
"I recently went to upper Crack in the Woods and noticed the bolts are gone - which is a good thing. Thanks for pulling them cleanly (I could barely find the holes).
Just s few quotes from earlier in this thead...
Couchmaster - i always thought this went without saying but thanks for pointing it out...
"They pissed you off and they ain't getting the hangers back. Ever. They are yours now".
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johnkelley
climber
Anchorage Alaska
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Sep 29, 2015 - 10:22am PT
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What's shocking to me is the diversity of the people who think that you f*#ked up placing these bolts...
Skinny, Andy, Clint, and I all have very different ideas and styles... Very different. However we all seem to agree that this is yet another one of your mistakes.
Most people learn from their mistakes but apparently you are not one of those people...
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cavemonkey
Ice climber
ak
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Sep 29, 2015 - 04:24pm PT
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Chelsea
please tell me that you did not add a retro variation to Garveys tax man. You are bordering on ass whooping territory!!!!!
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Lurkingtard
climber
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Sep 29, 2015 - 04:45pm PT
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Zzzzzzz. Please go away. WE DON'T CARE.
Isn't there a Alaskacrappycrag.com that you can post to?
BTW Kelsey seems like a reasonable dude and that other dude seems like a complete d#@&%e.
JMO from the bleachers.
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johnkelley
climber
Anchorage Alaska
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Sep 29, 2015 - 07:47pm PT
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"I only use ASCA gear for rebolting so I'm not putting crap bolts in". This is from Kelsey today.
This is from the ASCA's homepage...
"The amount of protection on a climb is traditionally determined by the first to climb the route, and while climbing is a fairly anarchistic pursuit, the one revered tradition is that later climbers never add additional fixed protection to an existing route. In other words, the addition of bolts or pitons to existing routes is not tolerated unless the first person to do the route adds the bolts to their own route".
The ASCA supplied Kelsey with bolts after his intentional retro bolting of Hocus Pocus and Splat Button several years ago. Something about how he wouldn't do it again... We'll hear we are again. Go figure...
Is the ASCA still supplying him with bolts/hardware?
Is, or has, the ASCA supplied his partner Kristopher Klein with bolts/hardware?
Oddly enough the Alaska section on the ASCA site is down
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