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Miguel F.
Intermediate climber
Monterrey, N.L./México
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Topic Author's Original Post - Jan 6, 2003 - 12:36pm PT
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On January 3 while trying to get the second ascent of "Las Auras" on the Central Pilar of Potrero Chico México, just when he was a few meters from the top Jose Pereyra Fell down to his death.
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sadness
Novice climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 6, 2003 - 03:54pm PT
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woah.
is there any more info on this?
I just met Jose before doin the Nose this fall.
He was real nice.
anyone know any details?
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chris
Novice climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 6, 2003 - 04:13pm PT
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The Valley will not be the same without you.
I saw Jose many times over the years. He seemed to love just hanging out, though I know he was very active as a climber. Rumor had it that he climbed very slowly, yet he had all these amazing speed records.
I remember this summer in Tuolummne when he aked to check out my GB. That was the first time that we actually hung out. He had such positive energy. I was happy to be able to share what I had with him.
I remember last summer racking up for a wall with Ammon in camp 4. Jose came up and walked over the rack, including the cams. Ammon told him that he missed a few, and so Jose came back on made sure to stomp on the remaining units. This wasn't rude or insulting, it was kind of his way of saying good luck, I guess. We all laughed about it.
I will miss you Jose.
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tree
Intermediate climber
hood river, or
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 6, 2003 - 04:33pm PT
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we arrived in potrero a few days ago. I dont have any specific details about the incident, but we woke up our first morning here to the sounds of a chopper rescue. the route he was climbing was apparently closed due to rock fall, and we heard that rock fall was actually the cause of the accident/fall. very sad.
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Miguel
Novice climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 6, 2003 - 07:17pm PT
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ARTICLE PUBLISHED IN www.xpmexico.com
Translated through SYSTRAN, so sorry for the wording.
Fatal accident in the Potrero
Sent by: webmaster.
Saturday 4 of January of 2003, Jose Luis Pereyra died when
trying to scale the wall of the Toro in the Small Potrero, near
Monterrey. Jose Luis is of Venezuelan origin and he was in Mexico from
December principles opening routes in the area of Monterrey. Of 40
years of age, the rock was killed when coming off itself which it
subjected. Apparently, the cordada one conformed by the Venezuelan and
Emiliano Fernandez ("the Chamán") was to 200 meters of the top, after
scaling 600, when a loosening broke the bomb safety line to which he
was subject. The accident happened in the route of the Dawns (Auras), opened
by Jose Bermejo and Jorge Wingartz. The controversial route has been
scaled in very few occasions and is famous by its loosenings, little
protections and by being of the only ones in arriving at the summit of
the wall of the Toro.
Near the 8 in the morning of that day, they were had reunited to
Emiliano Stolen Fernandez (22 years), and Emiliano Villanueva
Rabotnikov (28), with the Venezuelan to initiate the ascent. Emiliano
Fernandez, who comprised of the cordada one was 20 meters of him back
and saw fall to their companion to an emptiness of 400 meters of
depth. Apparently the cord was cut or broken in the caida one.
"it commented to Me that it wanted to make an ascent of high risk, an
adventure ascent and we decided to go by a route that in 10 years six
ascents have only made", commented Stolen Fernandez.
Domingo 5 in the morning, personnel of Civil defense of the State,
with the help of a helicopter, made the rescue of the body of the
Venezuelan who was taken to the amphitheatre of the University
Hospital. Her family is already in Monterrey and confirm that the body
of Pereyra will be cremated.
Pereyra Crossbowmen arrived from Salt Lake City (Utah) at Nuevo Leo'n,
where it scaled with the premises and visitors of the Small Potrero
and the Huasteco Tube. Hardly days ago, it had opened a new route in
the Tube of San Judas in the Huasteca, with Paul Side. This route,
still without name, is of 10 lengths, degree I SAW, 5,11 Run-out (very
exposed).
Jose Luis Pereyra was an experienced climber very and made numerous
scalings of high difficulty and commitment. At the moment he conserves
the record of ascent in 4 routes of Yosemite:
13:25 Grape Race, Chris McNamara, Jose Luis Pereyra, 1999 23:28
Mescalito, Poter Dean, Jose Luis Pereyra, Russ Mitrovich, 1998 26:25
Zenyatta Mondatta, Brian McCray, Jose Luis Pereyra 2001 19:58 Lunar
Eclipse, Ammon McNeely, Jose Luis Pereyra, 2001
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jmlangford
Novice climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 6, 2003 - 07:27pm PT
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I did not know Jose, but what I do know of him is positive. It hurts any time I hear of someone injured or killed climbing. You will be missed Jose.
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miss you
Novice climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 6, 2003 - 09:03pm PT
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this is an unbelievable loss for the climbing community, for everyone who knew Jose and for all those who never got the chance to know him. in addition to being an great climber he was truly one of the most beautiful people i have ever known. brilliant in mind and spirit, he will be missed deeply and often. who will we go to for explanation on physics, enlightenment, and the meaning of existence? we will miss spoting him walking through the parking lot, slightly hunched over, lost in thought. we will miss his stylin sunglasses and hats. his hillarious accounts of adventure. him dancing to techno in the meadow.
he was an amazing talent. one of those rare individuals born to climb. and rarer still was his modesty and relaxed appraoch. i don't think there is anyone who could meet him without walking away with learning some deep truth. he believed in the intrinsic beauty of everyone, and would stand by his friends thorugh anything.
i remember a conversation i had with Jose about technology. he explained that it was yin and yang. he drew a circle in the sand and said that everything is circular with a gravitational center and pull. that as our knowledge expands, people are pulled closer to each other through technology. so true today.
we will miss much about Jose. but i will miss most all of the drawings in the dirt.
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fan
Novice climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 6, 2003 - 09:14pm PT
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I will remember Jose's ridiculously chapped lips. One time, I saw him at the Buttermilks and I tried to look him at his face to follow our conversation but his lips were so chapped it was painful to even look! So I had to stare at the ground and listen to some sort of discourse about physics, landcapes and climbing. I assumed he was so bad-ass, he didn't feel his white-cracked, bleeding lips. What a inspiring climber, I will miss him.
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Link
Novice climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 6, 2003 - 09:18pm PT
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I too left more than one conversation with Jose having learned something meaningful. This is truly tragic news.
-Lincoln
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re: fan
Novice climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 6, 2003 - 10:09pm PT
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i'm sure he could feel his lips. but for him, the interaction with you was more important at the time. that's how he was.
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ak
Novice climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 6, 2003 - 10:53pm PT
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Yup- that's for sure how Jose was. Only met him a couple of times, but one of those times I sat at a picnic table for nearly an hour while he explained his views on Venezualan history and politics. I was amazed at how well he had thought out every angle of his argument/ discussion. I had to laugh when this hot chick came by and pretty soon she and Jose were off to climb the John Muir tree. Glad I got to meet you Jose, you will be missed...
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Ammon
Advanced climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 7, 2003 - 01:34am PT
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Jose is a genius.
I think he could actually hear the beating heart of Mother Nature.
His mind was so complex, yet simple at the sime time. He loved to go against the ordinary..... to make people think about why they choose to do the things they do.
Jose is a rock star.
One time I asked where he got such stylin' sunglasses and he replied:
"I got on the internet and typed in goodlooks.com, I then sent them a picture of me... and they told me exactly what to wear... to be good looking.... this hat.... these sunglasses......"
Jose is a comedian.
I remember one time when I was going to solo Lunar Eclipse in a push. He helped me carry loads to the base. The next morning while climbing the first pitch... I got a huge core-shot in my rope. I went down to get another rope and ran into Jose. He said:
"Ammon we should climb this route together.... We should really challenge ourselves.... We should take Chongo with us."
I thought he was out his mind. He wasn't. It was one of the best ascents ever. Somewhere around the fifteen hour mark he would say:
"Hey Ammon, necesito algunas hondas y carabiners"
"What? Carabiners... what do you want, Jose? I don't speak spanish"
"Oh sorry, Ammon. I need slings and carabiners.
Five minutes later he would slip into spanish once again. Chongo would translate for me once he got to the belay. It was a great day.
Jose is a lover.
He loved life, his friends and family. Jose loved himself. His spirit was shinining, bright.
Jose is an adventurer.
I remember one morning in the Cafe.... It just got done storming like a big dog. Tioga pass had just closed. Dean and Jose were heading to the Eastside.
"The pass is closed", I said.
"Oh, we don't need a car to get us there", Jose said. They hiked all the way there, in deep snow.
Jose will forever give me inspiration. My condolences goes out to freinds and family.
Jose will be missed but not forgotten.
WE LOVE YOU JOSE!!!!
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Ammon
Advanced climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 7, 2003 - 01:41am PT
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MW
Advanced climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 8, 2003 - 03:26pm PT
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Seen the various stuff posted at the usual sites and all the stories reporting seem to be different than what was related at the scene. I was at PC the day of the accident and watched the body recovery the next day. The facts (?) as related were that Jose and his partner (never heard of a third) where near the top of the route when Jose's partner tried to get him to come down due to some apparant danger. Jose related he thought all was ok and then either he fell or some rock gave way. All his gear ripped (heard 3-4 pieces) and he fell and pengied into the wall, breaking his spine. Apparantly there was further rockfall which hit Jose. The partner got down to Jose and determined that he was dead. The partner could not descend without the rope and was forced to cut Jose loose to get off the route.
This all sounds real bad, especially the rope cutting. If there was a third partner, seemingly they would have had two ropes, which mitigates against the rope cutting. But that was what was related the day of and after the accident, which differs from the press' take.
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scooter
Novice climber
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returning from climbing the Matthes Crest with Jose and two other freinds we lost a part to our head lamp on a completely moonless night in a talus field. Jose was hilarious he kept makeing us laugh the whole time. He would imitate elk noises. When we got back to the site everyone went to sleep except Jose and I and we stayed up for a long time drinking beers and building a pretty ridiculously large fire. Thanks for the good times Jose.
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Miguel F.
Intermediate climber
Monterrey, N.L./México
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 8, 2003 - 07:35pm PT
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Yesterday, January 7, Jose's Family and some of his friends took Jose's ashes to a magical place on the Huasteca Canyon "Guitarritas", we gather in Circle to share histories about Jose and his way of being, then his Sister Cristina throw His ashes to the air, now is free to roam wherever the wind might take him.
It was a very touching moment.
I agree with one of Jose's friends, "Funerals are for getting the ones you love together ".
Farewell Jose.
Some Details about the accident:
Jose was climbing with just one partner not two.
He fell down with a bunch of loose rock about 200 feet,100 above the belay, 100 below the belay.
It's hard to know if he break his spine or he died of the multiple injuries caused by the rocks.
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hcclimber
Intermediate climber
birmingham
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I was there and heard the same story that MW heard. I dont know what the real story is, but either way it is a great loss.
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Juniper-beginning climber
Novice climber
the sierra
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 10, 2003 - 12:18am PT
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Meeting Jose was an honor in itself. Quiet, brilliant, adventurous, kind, loving, gentle, a genuinely good listener, a super person and wonderful spirit. Jose is loved deeply and will be missed greatly. An insightful teacher, a patient mentor, a very generous guy. Jose enriched the lives he touched. I wrote him and Chongo something once and I reget never sharing it with them. There is so much I have to say that quietness says better.
I'll miss you Jose.........
Climb safe.
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Oz
Novice climber
London, UK
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 10, 2003 - 12:56pm PT
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I did no know Jose as a climber, but we grew up together in Caracas, went to school together, surfed and skated together, there wasn't a day that we did not talk or see each other.
Every weekend was enjoyed to the max, Jose knew how to live life to the full.
I had not seem him for many years and I always knew that one day we will get together again, go to a nice beach somewhere warm and surf together again just like when we were 14 years old , it's a real shame that this will not happen now...
Reading your messages just confirms what a special person he was.
I will miss my best friend.
Oz
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moment of silence
Novice climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 10, 2003 - 01:38pm PT
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