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wallyvirginia
Big Wall climber
Stockholm, Sweden
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Well Capt, good thing I live on the other side of the planet, then. Cause if "the merricans" laugh, I can just tell them to FOAD and head fer home...
Right? Yarr!
But you americans wouldn't laugh, you're likely the most polite people in the world. Slightly shallow maybe. But in a nice and friendly way, and that's what matters to me on my four weeks in California and Washington..
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Captain...or Skully
Big Wall climber
leading the away team, but not in a red shirt!
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Well, we'll mostly be laughin' with ya, dig?
All Good.
The Canadians are (mostly) much more polite. Hope you have a Blast!
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wallyvirginia
Big Wall climber
Stockholm, Sweden
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Thanks! I know we're just playing.
But, you see what I mean? How nice and friendly you put that, just there? That's damn polite! I dig it!
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R.B.
Big Wall climber
Land of the Lahar
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My friend, Bobbly Wobbly and myself did Mescalito in 1990 with two homemade "Portaboards". We made them out of plywood, drilled six holes, tied 5/16" webbing ... all joined into a figure 8 like single point anchor, man these things were friggin the bomb.
We could stand up on them, stack ropes on them, lay down on them, sleep on them, the were the total bomb! They are not aerodynamic, however, so you would have to weight down the bottoms on the haul or the wind could catch em like a sail and fling them up, then they would fall back down.
I also have made duct tape haul bags by sewing on 2" tubular webbing onto a store bought canvass army duffel bag, Hand sew with a speedy sticher using dental floss for thread, then once done would wrap about 2 or 3 rolls of duct tape around the bag (after it's loaded)
Yeah it was BITD when I was in college and I had to do it on the cheap.
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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
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Bwah-ha-ha-ha-ha!!! I was showing that Youtube video of me soloing Native Son to some friends of my son the other night, so I know exactly where that quote comes from! It was pretty funny to see me bashing away at the pin, and not hearing the pitch change at all. I really try to avoid that sort of behaviour any more.
Unless I'm cursing Steve Grossman. "Take that, Steve Grossman!" [whack] "Heavy handed, indeed!" [whack] "You're a dickhead!" [whack] "Wings of Steel my middle-aged lard ass!" [whack] etc etc
We were amazed that the video has over 70,000 hits. And the title doesn't even mention the notorious Shower Scene.
What the hell you doin' over in Sweden, anyway? Pulling an all-nighter? Isn't the sun coming up over there yet? Hell, if you're up north somewhere, the sun might not come up at all this time of year!
P.S. ^^^ Great photo of the plywood ledge! Got any more??
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wallyvirginia
Big Wall climber
Stockholm, Sweden
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Dec 10, 2010 - 12:05am PT
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I love those clips!
Yeah, I know it's 5.45 in the morning here. I've been up all night reading, doing crosswords puzzles, talking to you guys. Since you're canadian and not american I dare tell you that I'm at home playing with my son for another 6 months, at a 90% salary, it's every parents right by law in sweden. And I'm used to doing hard labour, rope access work every day to put me at ease. Now the energy's kind of flowing wild, can't really sleep.
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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
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Dec 10, 2010 - 12:08am PT
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Damn, you Swedes got a good deal goin' there.
Whaddya mean I ain't a Merrican? Ah is as red, what and blue as Uncle Frickin' Sam his-self. Got me a You-Ess passport for goin' one way, and got me a Hoser passport for comin' back t'other.
At some point tomorrow [today for you] yer gonna be sorry you stayed up all night. Maybe about the time Junior starts cryin'...
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Luke Malatesta
Big Wall climber
Moab UT
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Dec 10, 2010 - 12:20am PT
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Ive made a few things..Started doing custom work around here.
drill bag
Haul Pack
6-step Ladders
Bolt Bag
Haulbag w/ removable straps
Most Complex project thus far, full sized titanium framed single ledge
Just over 7 lbs. Has a dyneema Ripstop bed. Made it all myself
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wallyvirginia
Big Wall climber
Stockholm, Sweden
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Dec 10, 2010 - 12:25am PT
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Ah, I see. The best of both worlds perhaps?
Very true, so I'm going to get me an hour or so of sleep before he wakes up.
@Luke: Insanely cool! Say what, do you own a climbing goods factory?
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groundup
Trad climber
hard sayin' not knowin'
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Dec 10, 2010 - 12:29am PT
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Damn Luke, that stuff looks great! ever sell any drill/bolt bags?
Bravo! it's really purrdy.
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Luke Malatesta
Big Wall climber
Moab UT
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Dec 10, 2010 - 12:51am PT
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Thanks!
I have sold a few, this stuff is up for grabs now. Going to have some stuff in the local shops here next season.
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mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
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Dec 10, 2010 - 03:42am PT
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I am building a small ledge, got a sail repair shop to stitch my bed, very cheap. Adj daisies, the works. I am gonna give Luke a run for his titanium :)
Mucci
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Luke Malatesta
Big Wall climber
Moab UT
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Dec 10, 2010 - 04:07am PT
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I dont a climbing goods shop. I started a little business doing custom work around town but seem to be moving in that direction. Hope to have a small product line out by next spring useing only 100% US made goods. I will post some more stuff up tomorrow. Mucci, I wanna see your ledge, stuff looks great!
I have some other cool stuff in the works...
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JBC
Trad climber
Tacoma, WA
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Dec 10, 2010 - 02:29pm PT
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Haven't made a lot of gear myself, but here is a set of aiders I made when I first started aid climbing:
Jim
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John Mac
Trad climber
Littleton, CO
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Dec 10, 2010 - 02:49pm PT
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Luke, your stuff looks great!
Are you going to have a website for online sales?
Hopefully I can buy some items off you when my job settles down. 40 percent layoff the last few weeks.
Cheers
John
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Luke Malatesta
Big Wall climber
Moab UT
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Dec 10, 2010 - 05:01pm PT
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I am going to have it up soon. I think it will be a good winter project.
Thanks,
Luke
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Balls MaGee
climber
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Dec 10, 2010 - 09:01pm PT
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Luke Malatesta makes some really killer stuff. i believe he's out of UT. he's currently trying to start a business with his skill. he makes everything from portaledges and flys to bolt bags and custom stuff. check him out.
EDIT: ok, he's already posted these items. sorry for the redundancy, but a BIG bump for him anyway
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OlympicMtnBoy
climber
Seattle
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Mar 28, 2011 - 01:07am PT
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Re: Jerry
My home machine makes a nice zigzag stitch that if you make em close together an run a straight stitch through at the end is basically the same thing as a bar tack. It doesn't take long to do, I used those for all the potential load bearing points on my wall bags, three of them in some places. It's probably way less a real computerized bar tacker but I've tested them with body weight to see how few stitches I can get away with and I'd guess three of my fake bartack are at least 6-8 KN (+/- 6). ;-)
- OMB
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Moof
Big Wall climber
Orygun
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Mar 28, 2011 - 01:42am PT
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