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wallyvirginia

Big Wall climber
Stockholm, Sweden
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 9, 2010 - 10:25pm PT
Thanks,

I was hoping that we'd be able to do something nice and mostly clean on el cap (like salathé or triple direct or something) and then regular NW on Half Dome aswell.

If it's to darn hot in August then we'll just do HD and free climb a bunch.

It would be sweet to use our brand new portaledge too, are there any moderate mostly clean routes that requires a ledge? Or at least that you can bring a ledge on without looking like a complete as#@&%e?
'Pass the Pitons' Pete

Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
Dec 9, 2010 - 10:33pm PT
Lots of guys bring ledges on Salathe and the Nose, in spite of there being enough natural ledges to sleep on. It affords you the ability to camp where you want and when you want, and doesn't make you look like a weenie.

Lurking Fear goes pretty much clean, but it faces straight west and can get really hot in the afternoon. Zodiac gets straight southern exposure, and goes mostly clean. If you need to nail, it shouldn't be much.

You should just plan to climb whatever route you want to climb whenever you want to do it. If it's going to be hot, plan on five litres per person per day. Bring your 2:1 hauling ratchet, and know how to use it ahead of time. Water is your ONLY defense against the heat. If it's going to be REALLY hot, plan on six litres per day for the first couple days, and then reduce it to five. Plan on climbing in the shade, and chillin' when the sun hits you. Rig up some sort of parasol for shade.

Talk to Kate aka Batgirl - she soloed Mescalito in August. I know she got up early and climbed while it was cool, then hid out under a fly until the shade hit her in the afternoon.

Do Half Dome first as it will be cooler, and the climbing will be a bit easier, though the approach will be painful. Plan on taking along enough food, water and beer to assure your success no matter how long it takes you - and it almost always takes longer than you think - then shut up and climb.

You don't want to come all the way from Svenden just to bail.
wallyvirginia

Big Wall climber
Stockholm, Sweden
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 9, 2010 - 10:49pm PT
Nice to hear that you can bring the ledge without beeing laughed at.. I suppose when the routes are crowded it's good to be able to spread out the bivi's a litte extra.

You just now totally inspired me to not wus out because of the heat. August is what we got and our goal was to climb Half Dome AND The Captain so that's what we're going to to. In that order. And if it's hot then so be it. We'll just bring more water. Thanks again.

Mikko

"You're supposed to listen to the piton as you drive it (...) but of course, when you're soloing and you're scared, you give it a few extra whacks anyway!" -PTPP

Unforgettable!
Captain...or Skully

Big Wall climber
leading the away team, but not in a red shirt!
Dec 9, 2010 - 11:00pm PT
Oh, you'll be laughed at, everyone gets a piece o' that. It's all good.
Have fun!

Yer gonna die fer sure up there, mate. Yowza!
;-)
wallyvirginia

Big Wall climber
Stockholm, Sweden
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 9, 2010 - 11:11pm PT
Well Capt, good thing I live on the other side of the planet, then. Cause if "the merricans" laugh, I can just tell them to FOAD and head fer home...

Right? Yarr!

But you americans wouldn't laugh, you're likely the most polite people in the world. Slightly shallow maybe. But in a nice and friendly way, and that's what matters to me on my four weeks in California and Washington..
Captain...or Skully

Big Wall climber
leading the away team, but not in a red shirt!
Dec 9, 2010 - 11:14pm PT
Well, we'll mostly be laughin' with ya, dig?
All Good.
The Canadians are (mostly) much more polite. Hope you have a Blast!
wallyvirginia

Big Wall climber
Stockholm, Sweden
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 9, 2010 - 11:17pm PT
Thanks! I know we're just playing.

But, you see what I mean? How nice and friendly you put that, just there? That's damn polite! I dig it!
R.B.

Big Wall climber
Land of the Lahar
Dec 9, 2010 - 11:24pm PT
My friend, Bobbly Wobbly and myself did Mescalito in 1990 with two homemade "Portaboards". We made them out of plywood, drilled six holes, tied 5/16" webbing ... all joined into a figure 8 like single point anchor, man these things were friggin the bomb.

We could stand up on them, stack ropes on them, lay down on them, sleep on them, the were the total bomb! They are not aerodynamic, however, so you would have to weight down the bottoms on the haul or the wind could catch em like a sail and fling them up, then they would fall back down.

Bobbly on Mescalito, 1990 &#40;Portaboard in upper left&#41;
Bobbly on Mescalito, 1990 (Portaboard in upper left)
Credit: R.B.

I also have made duct tape haul bags by sewing on 2" tubular webbing onto a store bought canvass army duffel bag, Hand sew with a speedy sticher using dental floss for thread, then once done would wrap about 2 or 3 rolls of duct tape around the bag (after it's loaded)

Yeah it was BITD when I was in college and I had to do it on the cheap.

'Pass the Pitons' Pete

Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
Dec 9, 2010 - 11:41pm PT
Bwah-ha-ha-ha-ha!!! I was showing that Youtube video of me soloing Native Son to some friends of my son the other night, so I know exactly where that quote comes from! It was pretty funny to see me bashing away at the pin, and not hearing the pitch change at all. I really try to avoid that sort of behaviour any more.

Unless I'm cursing Steve Grossman. "Take that, Steve Grossman!" [whack] "Heavy handed, indeed!" [whack] "You're a dickhead!" [whack] "Wings of Steel my middle-aged lard ass!" [whack] etc etc

We were amazed that the video has over 70,000 hits. And the title doesn't even mention the notorious Shower Scene.

What the hell you doin' over in Sweden, anyway? Pulling an all-nighter? Isn't the sun coming up over there yet? Hell, if you're up north somewhere, the sun might not come up at all this time of year!

P.S. ^^^ Great photo of the plywood ledge! Got any more??
wallyvirginia

Big Wall climber
Stockholm, Sweden
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 10, 2010 - 12:05am PT
I love those clips!

Yeah, I know it's 5.45 in the morning here. I've been up all night reading, doing crosswords puzzles, talking to you guys. Since you're canadian and not american I dare tell you that I'm at home playing with my son for another 6 months, at a 90% salary, it's every parents right by law in sweden. And I'm used to doing hard labour, rope access work every day to put me at ease. Now the energy's kind of flowing wild, can't really sleep.
'Pass the Pitons' Pete

Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
Dec 10, 2010 - 12:08am PT
Damn, you Swedes got a good deal goin' there.

Whaddya mean I ain't a Merrican? Ah is as red, what and blue as Uncle Frickin' Sam his-self. Got me a You-Ess passport for goin' one way, and got me a Hoser passport for comin' back t'other.

At some point tomorrow [today for you] yer gonna be sorry you stayed up all night. Maybe about the time Junior starts cryin'...
Captain...or Skully

Big Wall climber
leading the away team, but not in a red shirt!
Dec 10, 2010 - 12:09am PT
Head directly to the BigWall board. Do not pass go. Do not collect $200.
http://www.bigwalls.net/forum2/
Luke Malatesta

Big Wall climber
Moab UT
Dec 10, 2010 - 12:20am PT
Ive made a few things..Started doing custom work around here.

drill bag
drill bag
Credit: Luke Malatesta
drill bag

Haul Pack
Haul Pack
Credit: Luke Malatesta
Haul Pack

Ladders
Ladders
Credit: Luke Malatesta
6-step Ladders

Bolt Bag
Bolt Bag
Credit: Luke Malatesta
Bolt Bag

Haulbag
Haulbag
Credit: Luke Malatesta
Haulbag w/ removable straps

DIAD Bag Proto #2
DIAD Bag Proto #2
Credit: Luke Malatesta

Titanium Ledge
Titanium Ledge
Credit: Luke Malatesta

Most Complex project thus far, full sized titanium framed single ledge
Just over 7 lbs. Has a dyneema Ripstop bed. Made it all myself

wallyvirginia

Big Wall climber
Stockholm, Sweden
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 10, 2010 - 12:25am PT
Ah, I see. The best of both worlds perhaps?

Very true, so I'm going to get me an hour or so of sleep before he wakes up.

@Luke: Insanely cool! Say what, do you own a climbing goods factory?
groundup

Trad climber
hard sayin' not knowin'
Dec 10, 2010 - 12:29am PT
Damn Luke, that stuff looks great! ever sell any drill/bolt bags?

Bravo! it's really purrdy.
Luke Malatesta

Big Wall climber
Moab UT
Dec 10, 2010 - 12:51am PT
Thanks!

I have sold a few, this stuff is up for grabs now. Going to have some stuff in the local shops here next season.

mucci

Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
Dec 10, 2010 - 03:42am PT
Wild Country Biner Hook.
Wild Country Biner Hook.
Credit: mucci
Deluxe Hammock I designed and had made in thailand, with beer coozies ...
Deluxe Hammock I designed and had made in thailand, with beer coozies and clip in points. Also a thermarest pocket and rain Fly.
Credit: mucci
Exactly what I always wanted.
Exactly what I always wanted.
Credit: mucci

I am building a small ledge, got a sail repair shop to stitch my bed, very cheap. Adj daisies, the works. I am gonna give Luke a run for his titanium :)

Mucci
Luke Malatesta

Big Wall climber
Moab UT
Dec 10, 2010 - 04:07am PT
I dont a climbing goods shop. I started a little business doing custom work around town but seem to be moving in that direction. Hope to have a small product line out by next spring useing only 100% US made goods. I will post some more stuff up tomorrow. Mucci, I wanna see your ledge, stuff looks great!

I have some other cool stuff in the works...
Lovegasoline

Trad climber
Sh#t Hole, Brooklyn, NY
Dec 10, 2010 - 10:51am PT
R.B.,
What's it like carrying a 6' piece of plywood down East Ledges?

Or does it transform into a glider experiment (I've not yet seen a piece of plywood fly 3,000 ft) ... or get torched?
JBC

Trad climber
Tacoma, WA
Dec 10, 2010 - 02:29pm PT
Haven't made a lot of gear myself, but here is a set of aiders I made when I first started aid climbing:

Credit: JBC

Jim
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