Big Wall DIY Thread

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Messages 41 - 55 of total 55 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
John Mac

Trad climber
Littleton, CO
Dec 10, 2010 - 11:49am PT
Luke, your stuff looks great!

Are you going to have a website for online sales?

Hopefully I can buy some items off you when my job settles down. 40 percent layoff the last few weeks.

Cheers

John

Luke Malatesta

Big Wall climber
Moab UT
Dec 10, 2010 - 02:01pm PT
I am going to have it up soon. I think it will be a good winter project.

Thanks,

Luke
Balls MaGee

climber
Dec 10, 2010 - 06:01pm PT
Luke Malatesta makes some really killer stuff. i believe he's out of UT. he's currently trying to start a business with his skill. he makes everything from portaledges and flys to bolt bags and custom stuff. check him out.
Credit: Balls MaGee
Credit: Balls MaGee
Credit: Balls MaGee

EDIT: ok, he's already posted these items. sorry for the redundancy, but a BIG bump for him anyway
Rokjox

Trad climber
Boys I'dunno
Dec 12, 2010 - 02:12pm PT
This thread was supposed to be about do-it-yourself stuff.

Instead its about anything but.

Its guys looking for dates, guys starting up companies and wanting customers, people making stuff so slick for others consumption that it has nothing to do with actual do it yourself.





So I am going to post what appears to be the first actual homemade stuff on this thread since the OP. I tried to get a little cutesy with the displaying of my old crap, and I think it failed, but really, most likely Locker will screw with it anyway, so I ain't going to spend a lot more time on it. Sorry I didn't do a better job. But this stuff was actually homemade and actually got used for yeas.


Here is a picture of some of the sh#t from the bottom of my closet box.




See that old haulsack? When I made that, there weren't too many alternatives available, and nothing I would pay all that much for, so I got a couple square yards of used indoor/outdoor carpeting and made that. Originally I didn't want anything too big, but if I had it to do over, I would have added 6" to a foot in circumference and made it a little bigger. My intention was to be one arml ength in depth, so you could get to the bottom of the sack without so much trouble. It was to be a grade 5 haulbag, not something to assist you in spending an entire summer vacationing on a route. The material was first glued together, then speedy stitched, then I added rivits. The webbing goes all the way around the bottom. and is a single length. It crosses on the bottom and is sewn into place there.

You can see that despite having been drug up several routes, thrown off El Cap Towers and otherwise misused, it only ever got a couple tiny tears. I/O Carpeting doesn't "tear" at all and wears unbelievably. I sewed many little loops around it as handhold grips and gear rack loops to help in re-racking and gave me a place to put stuff on the outside at night, kinda a wall pegboard The webbing was left loose at a couple places so you COULD use them as shoulder straps, but it wasn't comfortable. Or was it intended to be.

The top was turned down a foot and sewn that way to provide more material for wear resistance, and to protect the webbing.

I had a liner I used in it for awhile, with shoulder straps on it, and the idea was to put everything inside the liner when you were carrying it down, but that kinda fell by the wayside. Too much trouble.






The home made buttseat worked but was pretty miserable. Beat hanging for hours in a harness alone.






The aiders are NOT sewn, and so are FAR safer. They are ONE piece of webbing, and the loop knot is in the bottom, where it is out of the way. Every step is a water knot carefully tied and adjusted, and you can clip into any step without risking dying from zippering stitches. They are NOT the same length, they are a four and a five step, and the little loops at the top were for actual highstepping. WHY would you want them the same length? Just tangle and add weight.

Topsteps nowadays are about where my second steps are and I can't believe that hero steps aren't supplied now. SO MUCH distance is lost by guys too afraid to actually get into a REAL topstep. If your waist isn't WELL above the piece you are wasting your time and your partner out to abandon you. They are small because you don't want to trap your foot in them if you tip over. Older sets of aiders (of mine) had the hero steps actually laced into the knot but that provided too large a knot, and you couldn't tighten it well enough, weakening the entire aider. The knots were tied with left and right polarity so the steps fell on alternate sides.

The steps were laced through 1" tubular old cast off webbing to make the steps stiffer and hold open. If you let the tubular webbing bunch up it was even better than leaving them flat, made the steps stay open very well.

I usually kept the worlds worst hooks fixed to the top biners, you could hook your harness quickly and lean back for a fast rest, or place the aider onto a lip or whatever without hunting for a better hook much of the time. Crushed pins didn't need a biner through them, you just hooked them and moved on. That hook on the left is the original, and it was GUARANTEED to rotate, skid, slip and fail on almost any placement. No base legs and a rounded tip made it almost worthless for micro edges.

That wad of purple webbing? I usually kept a few 1/2" or thinner 6" tied loops hung around the aiders or on the aid rack; hero loops for tying off short pins, threading bent and smashed stuff, or slipping behind half pulled bolts or rivets. DON'T use a girth hitch on hero loops, girth hitches are FAT (a double strand knot) and loosen up and slip off instantly when unweighted. you tie a loop knot slip knot with one hand and put THAT on a tied off pin. It only ends up being a single strand of webbing instead of two, provides rotational torque to the pin that is selectable left or right, and does NOT loosen when unweighted. FAR superior, and EVERYONE should have their hand slapped when they tie girth hitches. You ARE Goona Die if you don't learn to stop using girth hitches.





The bongs I always rigged with runners. Not just to rack them, though it worked fine, but because I placed most of them by hand, as big-assed nuts in a day when a number 10 hex was a big deal. You could place them oriented either vertically or horizontally, and they were better as nuts than pins. As nuts they didn't expand the flakes, didn't leave huge scars and you didn't beat hell out of the soft aluminum placing and removing them.

I used to have more, but through the years, climbers left alone around my gear stole a lot of that old stuff. Some climbers are some of the worst thieves, and I don't just invite just anybody to paw through my stuff anymore.







The first two old jumars were Chuck Pratts original set, he sold them to me in Camp 4 so long ago I can't place the year, must have been the first half of the 1070's. HE sewed such nice slings on them that I never cut them off, just added another layer knotted over his work, that I have since removed. TINY machine stitches, and MANY passes. Immaculate work.

Of course the third jumar was the haul-stop jumar. A later version that never looked very sturdy to me compared to the original cast ones. It was useful as a spare if you managed to drop one too, although I never did.







BITD we actually DID make stuff OURSELVES and actually CLIMBED on it.
gf

climber
Mar 27, 2011 - 09:39pm PT
hey rock-good on ya
luke -pm me if you see this -most interested in what you are up to
OlympicMtnBoy

climber
Seattle
Mar 27, 2011 - 10:07pm PT
Re: Jerry
My home machine makes a nice zigzag stitch that if you make em close together an run a straight stitch through at the end is basically the same thing as a bar tack. It doesn't take long to do, I used those for all the potential load bearing points on my wall bags, three of them in some places. It's probably way less a real computerized bar tacker but I've tested them with body weight to see how few stitches I can get away with and I'd guess three of my fake bartack are at least 6-8 KN (+/- 6). ;-)
- OMB
Moof

Big Wall climber
Orygun
Mar 27, 2011 - 10:42pm PT
Credit: Moof

One night stand, for dogs...
One night stand, for dogs...
Credit: Moof

redone Ural Alp russian aiders
redone Ural Alp russian aiders
Credit: Moof

Not Ural Alp russian aiders
Not Ural Alp russian aiders
Credit: Moof

Ledge haul sack
Ledge haul sack
Credit: Moof

Aid trees with gear organizing widget in background
Aid trees with gear organizing widget in background
Credit: Moof
SteveW

Trad climber
The state of confusion
Mar 28, 2011 - 11:14am PT

Either that's one BIG DOG, or it's a small ledge, moof!!!!!
mooch

Trad climber
Old Climbers' Home (Adopted)
Mar 28, 2011 - 12:33pm PT
Props Mucci.
wallyvirginia

Big Wall climber
Stockholm, Sweden
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 5, 2011 - 01:22am PT
BUMP for big wall DIY


Spring has finally reached us up here in the Stockholm area of Sweden, there's only a little snow left and big wall training season has begun!

We slept in the portaledge this weekend, on a small rockface half way out in the archipelago.. We were a little late so conditions were rough on us. Basically pitch black and lots of heavy fog when we finally started setting up the bivy.

Excellent practice, I suppose! =)

The backpack/camelback/gearsling seem to work just fine. I had to shorten the straps a little bit, because the gear was hanging a little low. Other than that - Perfect!

photo not found
Missing photo ID#197183
Rocman

Trad climber
Reno,NV
Apr 22, 2011 - 08:16am PT
Plastic shipping containors[ olive] make a great haul drum,with sewn or knots on harness,plywood portaledge,5/8 thick riged with webing are good for your first wall,BlackDimond prymid works as rainfly both on and off the wall,knoted aiders adjust well for us taller people who are outside manurfacture spic. 5 gal w/ lid,web tie off for storage of fruit,bread,candys attached to bottom of hauldrum, webbing taped to sunglasses [crockies] all can be collected at little or no cost[craiglist]Delis,foodstores,construction sites[ask first]I ve always got buckets at Delis,free so if Big Walls are not to your likeing,your not out big $$
Chris McNamara

SuperTopo staff member
Feb 5, 2012 - 09:57pm PT
Has anyone thought of making haulbags out of TPO cool roof fabric? I just had my roof redone with the stuff when I installed solar panels. It seems like the material could be way less expensive and easier to come by than urethane. And no stitching required: the seams can all be heat welded. Thoughts?

TPO material on my roof
TPO material on my roof
Credit: Chris McNamara

Close up of the TPO material. Feels just as burly as the urethane on Y...
Close up of the TPO material. Feels just as burly as the urethane on Yates haulbags or Durethane on Metolius Haul Bags.
Credit: Chris McNamara
Jonnnyyyzzz

Trad climber
San Diego,CA
Feb 6, 2012 - 05:24am PT
Here just some of the soft gear I've built. I've done more climbing stuff like Gear Slings, chalk bag, Bivi sack, some more haul bags and crag packs, ect, but haven't taken any pictures to post. I'm working on a ledge now. I have done lots of non climbing stuff as well. It's cool to build this kind of stuff. You get stuff the way you want it with the materials, sizes, and features that you couldn't get any other way and I've found that the stuff I've been making is nicer, just as strong or stronger, and way, way, way less money So go get a really nice sewing machine start learning to use it. Take a sewing class It will pay for it's self in no time.
Med and Large Hall bags
Med and Large Hall bags
Credit: Jonnnyyyzzz
Removable straps tuck away like the A5 bags. padded back panel.
Removable straps tuck away like the A5 bags. padded back panel.
Credit: Jonnnyyyzzz
Adders with 2 inch wide webbing for steps &#40;adds comfort&#41;  and ...
Adders with 2 inch wide webbing for steps (adds comfort) and they collapse up to the handels that unroll to wrap them up in and keep out of the way.
Credit: Jonnnyyyzzz
Credit: Jonnnyyyzzz
Adjustable Dazy's
Adjustable Dazy's
Credit: Jonnnyyyzzz
Hammer holster with snap keeper
Hammer holster with snap keeper
Credit: Jonnnyyyzzz
Credit: Jonnnyyyzzz
Credit: Jonnnyyyzzz
Bouldering Chalk bucket monster
Bouldering Chalk bucket monster
Credit: Jonnnyyyzzz
GuapoVino

Trad climber
All Up In Here
Feb 7, 2012 - 11:26am PT
Awesome work, great looking gear. I used to make a lot of my own gear on my Juki DNU-241 sewing machine - backpacks, tents, bivy sacks.

The roof membranes are pretty similar to some of the materials that are used to make rafts. Several years ago I built a one-man cat-a-raft out of PVC coated nylon, the same material that Seal Line drybags are made out of. I glued it together with a glue called HH-66. It was a royal pain in the ass to get those curving cone shapes to lay right on the ends and not look like crap (and hold air). I did a lot of exploring in that home built raft. I can post pics if anyone is interested. Of course if you're making something like a haul bag out of roof membrane type material and it doesn't have to be completely waterproof you can just sew it, assuming you have a beast of a sewing machine.

I built a fiberglass sea kayak and a kevlar canoe also. Epoxy is pretty cool to work with.
jfailing

Trad climber
Lone Pine
Feb 7, 2012 - 12:01pm PT
Very cool stuff everyone!

I already posted this on another thread, but oh well... Myles in Lone Pine has been making tons of gear. Here are some pics of the mods he made for the fly on my Fish ledge.

I'm sure he'd post some pics, but he's probably freezing his ass off up on Keeler Needle right now...

The yellow pole meets with another smaller black pole which connects t...
The yellow pole meets with another smaller black pole which connects to just below the ledge clip-in.
Credit: jfailing

Credit: jfailing

BCB Custom Ledge Fly
BCB Custom Ledge Fly
Credit: jfailing
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