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BASE104
climber
An Oil Field
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Nov 17, 2010 - 07:09pm PT
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I am certain that they are, Jim. Yo- yoing is a no go on any FFA nowadays. On the send.
So they are really doing it. Guy leads a pitch and a guy follows a pitch. I am pretty sure that if the 2nd even falls he goes back to the start.
Like others, man, I have seen some of those pitches, and I doubt you could even hook a lot of the moves.
Almost all of the 5.14 stuff in the world is super overhanging. The technique to do it on vertical rock is actually pretty specialized.
Like I am some expert....
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BASE104
climber
An Oil Field
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Nov 17, 2010 - 07:29pm PT
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Dude has his shirt off. I know that they need it to be very cool temps. They climb at night a bunch.
Man, I hope they don't have to bail. This is one of the coolest El Cap ascents ever.
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WBraun
climber
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Nov 17, 2010 - 07:42pm PT
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They were up there on the Molar about 2:30 in the afternoon when I stopped to look after doing my "burn/lead" at the cookie today ....
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BASE104
climber
An Oil Field
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Nov 17, 2010 - 08:17pm PT
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If you were soloing, you can't tell anyone about it Werner. It is all pure and stuff, ya know. There is a thread around here that spells it all out.
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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
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Nov 17, 2010 - 08:34pm PT
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Has anybody climbed Mescalito since these guys started working the area? It is a fact that they have added bolts. I have no issue with new bolts if the bolts are added to a new and unclimbed section of rock.
I have huge issues if any [convenience] bolts have been added to the existing aid lines, as Todd Skinner did to ruin Dihedral Wall.
Does anyone know?
Stylistically, they have been very forthcoming in how they are climbing. It seems only right that they maintain the same high standard when it comes to the ethics they have used.
Thoughts?
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Elcapinyoazz
Social climber
Joshua Tree
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Nov 17, 2010 - 08:52pm PT
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I have huge issues
Yes, Pete, you do. Maybe take them up with a therapist?
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squatch
Boulder climber
santa cruz, CA
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Nov 17, 2010 - 08:58pm PT
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Pete, I climbed Mescalito in July and did not see any sign of their presence on the route save a little chalk and a bolt way off to the side of the Molar traverse where their new terrain goes.
these guys climb very clean and make a huge effort to be more bold rather than change an existing route.
I've heard many people talking about them bolting all over the wall and on the route and that is just a bunch of speculating that has no ground in reality.
anybody who questions otherwise should go up there and find out themselves.
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j-tree
Trad climber
bay area, ca
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Nov 17, 2010 - 09:23pm PT
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interview in climbing magazine has Tommy saying that they mostly replaced alum dowels/rivets with 3/8 bolts.
But I'm posting this from memory so "mostly" is definitely a questionable term for me to use considering my memory.
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Jerry Dodrill
climber
Sebastopol, CA
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Nov 17, 2010 - 10:55pm PT
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Hey guys, I am passing along a question from Kevin for you all. They are doing some planning and request info. Here's the basic gist:
Has anyone endured a winter storm on Wino Tower? Does it get slammed when the wall melts out?
Thanks in advance.
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WBraun
climber
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Nov 17, 2010 - 11:01pm PT
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I wouldn't want to be on Wino Towers in any storm.
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JLP
Social climber
The internet
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Nov 17, 2010 - 11:19pm PT
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Where to go, then?
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SuperTopo on the Web
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Let us know!