Vote - Should Skinner's bolts be removed?

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climberweenie

Trad climber

San Jose, CA

Dec 20, 2005 - 02:48am PT

Leave the bolts.
Put red duct tape next to the new ones.
Add a tag at the base that rates the variation with aretes and cracks off.

k-man

Gym climber

SCruz

Dec 20, 2005 - 11:08am PT

People stream into Yo for the easy access to unparalleled Greade V and VI aid routes. But the trend is now moving towards freeing the long ones. Look at the frequency that walls are getting free attempts. C.Mac stated that during his ascent with Caldwell, there were more free climbers on the Stone than those in aiders. Groundbreaking was Astroman a few years ago. These days you find lines at the base.

Now that WDD has been established as a free climb (regardless of the style of the ascent), it's on a small list of long, hard routes. Sure you can chop the bolts and turn it back into an aid line. But I wouldn't be surprised to see the bolts reappear in a few years as more folks whet their appetite for the Grade V and IV testpieces.

One old ethic says that once a route goes free, you stop nailing it. Like someone alluded to above, "Chop a free bolt so you can hammer a copperhead?" I guess it's like trying to play checkers and chess on the same board.

:- k

Levy

Big Wall climber

So Calif

Dec 20, 2005 - 12:05pm PT

I vote with the chopping/removal camp. I did WDD in May for the 2nd time and the bolts were way too close to the regular route. There was a new belay just to the right of the regular belay after WDD's crux pitch and bolts in other sections near cracks that could take traditional gear. These additional bolts are an eyesore and a desecration to a fine route that had so few bolts on it's original pitches that they could be counted on the fingers of one hand(except for the initial section up to Ahwahnee on WFLT est by Harding).

Coiler, if you want help in removing these offensive bolts, let me know & I'll help.

Levy

hardman

Trad climber

the valley

Dec 20, 2005 - 01:39pm PT

LMAO at poop tube reply to Bob d

Say Hello to my little friend :)

Ben Rumsen

Social climber

No Name City ( and it sure ain't pretty )

Dec 20, 2005 - 01:54pm PT

" There was a new belay just to the right of the regular belay after WDD's crux pitch and bolts in other sections near cracks that could take traditional gear " -

Wouldn't that be considered bullshit just about anywhere??

WBraun

climber

Dec 20, 2005 - 01:55pm PT

Aid climbers are dying just like those dinosaurs, free climbing is going to knock you socks off! Aid climbers are the biggest cheaters on the rock.

Hehehe, just ask Bachar .....