Topic Author's Original Post - Oct 27, 2010 - 01:58pm PT
This is my attempt to keep a climbing thread on the front page as much as possible and maybe even get the number or resposnes the rebulican thread got at some point. I have seen a lot of bitching about how climbing threads drop in a day or two and I feel that is because there is little interaction after the person puts the work into the piece of writing or photos and the conversation does not continue. Sorry if I am repeating something already done and maybe we just bump up an old thread. Unfortunately I have not climbed in the last couple of days as it has almost been a blizzard, but I will soon and I will put up a word or two and/or a picture when I do. Hope everyone is getting out there and make a post here when you do if you like reading and looking at climbing. MikeI climbed this a few days ago and hopefully will again soon.
Headed out to fix the anchor on a seldom-climbed route called 'Pacific Rim' that climbs a curving arete up to a sizeable roof. The line features a somewhat runout traverse at the top of the arete that takes you out immediately above the roof to the anchor. The traverse is spookier for the follower than the leader.
Made it to the gym for once - whew! Jeez, gyms are hard on your hands and arms, no slabs in sight. The only thing I could climb well was a crack. Gyms really force strange footwork, that's for sure. And my stance-drilling-honed calves are useless!
A roof- nothing like tearing a roof off in October to keep you busy. Normally I'd be nervous that winter would show up about now, but it's rained ten days in the last month- in Bishop. Sheesh. I should send LA a bill. I want a cut of the money they'll make selling all the water I brought forth from the sky.
I climbed the F@*&king walls at work today.
Retail is rough but some days it's damn near impossible.
I often wonder how they got to the storeand more importantly, how the f@*k they get home?
That porter never tasted so great.
Here's to you Joe!
What a f@*$king day
Hit the gym yesterday and trashed myself. Then an occasional partner called last night and proposed skipping work and climbing. We did that, and I managed my best onsight in several years, so that was very cool.
The tower is definately climbable in winter, but it kind of depends on the winter. DT is kind of out of the snow cycle around here and is low enough that the temps will almost always be pleasent if it is a sunny day on the South face. We have ice climbing just a few minutes outside of town though so I do a lot of that in the winter. We did climb there on Sunday and that is when the picture was taken.
Took a few burns on Scatterbrain for the first time...more progress on every burn, but no send. Slopy wide pinches, slightly funky/tricky beta. Spotter didn't spot and I've got a giant bruise on my azz after one nice tumble.
Then headed to Moonbeam crack to boulder out the bottom half, trying to get it wired. Few burns until diminishing returns. Damn that thing is hard and continuous, and kinda reachy.
Then soloed middle and right peyote cracks, went to search for Moving to Montanta aka Kevitation after failing to find it on 3 previous occasions. FOUND IT! And it's not that good, at least not for a wide problem. The wide is like 2 fist jams, then hard really steep face/sloper climbing with bad fall potential (you could roll of the platform and got another 10' to the floor).
Then went to sports challenge with a pad and harness..hoping someone had a rope on the Beaver, with Kirkatron as a backup plan. No beaver party, so took burns on Kirkatron...forgot how sequential it is (for me, anyway, have to get everything right to send).
That darn scaffolding again finishing my roof....Nearly tipped the Scaffolding doing a mantle on the edge of a piece.....Forgot we didn't have it clamped down or many pounds of materials stabilizing it.
Kinda like climbing 10b face a little up and a little down....
I climbed Shake and Bake at West Pinnacales National Monument today...my friend Eric and I the only climbers in the park. Exciting old school route, especially when you skip the first belay at the end of the traverse and do one mega 1st pitch with rope drag on 5.10a R, 30 feet out...Felt like cloud nine after clipping the chains at 160 feet or so. Winds were howling through the trees, and we were semi protected in our lava tube. Toproped the first pitch of Electric Blue as well, long 5.11a that I'll have to lead when the wind is not howling.
What a great day!
Bump for climbing related!
hey there all.... say, (not counting my stairs of course) :O
well, i never get to climb... and it was a great surprise-blessing the other few days, to finally GET TO CLIMB A HILL!!!...
yep--a really neat one, and steep, though sadly, it was a paved one...
it was leading into a uh...
well, it was all i had.... :)
i was lucky to be there... really....
some friends from england, came to visit and we just happened to stay at a golf course, though non of us play golf... it was an off season, so they take folks in...
it was a really lovely, and very spendid part of the woods though... the trees were great with wild colors... and all kind of woodsy-stuff was around...
and... well, the golf course was around, too... sure couldnt miss it, and i am surly not knocking it... :)
it was just so strange to be in the woods-----but not really "in" them...
the hill was great to climb, even though it was a golf cart trail... but--
i just looked up the wonderful trees and pretended it was dirt beneath my feet... and:
the veiw of the trees, and the lay of the land, around the golf course, was
really lovely... it really was... i will post a pic, later, of the trees...
well, that's it for me, folks... climbing in to bed to sleep now, is what i will do:
if all the critters get out and make room for me... :O
happy climbing! while you can... as winter is soon upon us in many places...
edit: here is the picture... you can NOT see the steepness of the hill, though, from here... it drops sharply down...
and... it is JUST as steep once you go around, and come back up to the other side, way-far-left of this starting point...
crimson crysalis - first ones on the route. Up two pitches before the next party showed up. Topped out at noon. Ready now to go to BJ's for PIZZA. Waiting for friends who just topped out on Rainbow Wall 20 minutes ago.
I tried to climb this thing about 30 times today, but just could not quite get there. Flaring off fingers on a slighly overhanging wall with crappy footholds. Been working on getting this for many many days over several years and could never get off the ground. Today I came to within about 2 feet of the top but could not commit to the last move as there is a sloping rock shelf that is somewhat uneven to land on. i think I got it dialed for the next time though.
Had an outing with a friend who I knew in grade 4. He and I were also in grade 7 together. The friend had a mountain bike accident in June, and after surgery for a damaged neck is in rehabilitation. He's somewhat mobile, and can walk short distances, but it's a long road. So, as it was a nice autumn day in Vancouver, he and I and two others from our grade 7 class went for a drive, for lunch, and for a (st)roll along Kits beach. Sometimes he got pushed, sometimes he walked. Very pleasant, makes you better appreciate what you have.
Got a long standing personal project by Nemo today, 8+ years of walking by and looking and occasionally giving it a try. Scrappy off fingers for me with a couple of handjams. Bad landing on a sloping rock ledge makes it feel taller than it is right off the start. It was a good day for me.
Yesterday I stubbed my right pinky toe, on a free weight, which caught on a callous and split the sucker seemingly to the bone. I had that bone pain for about half an hour.
Anyway I taped it up as soon as I stanched the blood, and ddidn't look at it.
Until I got to PGSF today and faced a moment of truth. I was able to gently squeeze it into a 39 Miura and climb half a dozen pitches before it began to throb. I switched to 39.5 Tc Pros and started playing the cracks. Nothing hard, but a dozen or so succesful pitches. No great step for climbkind, but it made my day.
Thanks, Rich - I needed that. Pouring rain here, hard at work.
I was once in Boston in September, and hoped but didn't quite manage to make it to the Gowannashunks. Perhaps sometime. My mother really liked to visit New York City - she grew up in small town Ontario, but worked as a counsellor at a summer camp in upstate New York, where once a week they went to the city with the old crew, had a day off, and then went back to camp with the new ones. Pretty heady stuff for teenagers, in the big city.
Yesterday I climbed Rock Jungle (5 pitches) and a couple of other pitches at Eagle Peak in SD county. My first time at Eagle Peak. Couldn't post that yesterday because I didn't use the computer at all yesterday.
Mt. Woodson...introduced two first timers to The Hill, Adam and Jumi. They got to do Robbin's Crack (10a hands), the upper finger crack of Lie Detector (10a), the flaring dihedral/lieback to the right of the finger crack on the face (10d), Corn Flake (5.8), Baby Robbins (5.9), and Jaws (11a). They also got to play on Blasted Rock #2. Great to feel their enthusiasm!
Two days ago le_bruce and I got up Goodrich Pinnacle (right side) on Glacier Apron. We came really close to bailing because it was wet. Kinda creepy when your feet barely stick and the rubber is squeaky as it slips a little bit, then trying to pick out the "eliminates" route where little dry spots appear between the water rivulets. At one point had to commit to a traverse through the water, and a critical microflake broke off and I was hanging by a curled fingertip with both feet on wet slab above a ledge... all in all a good adventure and it was truly nice to finish a route over there for a change. And no headlamps required!
Of course I still have to get it together to reach the Oasis someday and work up to Galactic Hitchhiker. Pictures coming in another thread when I reclaim my camera from le_bruce.
EDIT: We climbed the RIGHT side... changed 'left' to 'right' above.
Made a quick trip to estes Creek for a little bouldering after work and gave a tour of the area to a buddy. Didn't get too much climbing in as it was getting dark and a lot of the climbing was wet due to the recent snow.
I was there! Though sadly I did lose my prescription glasses in the Ryan Camp's bathroom. I took them off and left them behind sitting on top of the toilet paper. Once I did remember them, someone else sadly had collected. (Crossing my fingers that they somehow come back to me.)
I also somehow missed HossJulia... (We did find your campsite Julia but we somehow came in too late to catch you.)
Yet I still had an excellent day. I did bump into a really great old friend I haven't seen for three years. We met up with Bill's friends from Cleveland. We had the best climbing partners along with us in the car. Add on how nice it was to visit the Nomads crew and... Well, nothing gets better.
Can't believe I missed you mrs. pepper ! We had a fun time out at Stirrup. Todd always seems to bring a great posse to cool rock. Didn't even wimp out due to cold and wind. I'm learning that just being there is so awesome .... no matter what Madre Nature is having fun doing on that particular day. :DD
Got a solo in on this after work and then hiked up to a local cave to see if the pillar was touching, not quite.Spearfish creek does some crazy sh*t when it gets below zero. It is completely diverted about halfway down the canyon by the former Homestake mine, but when it gets really cold it surges and was running several feet deep where there is normally no flow this time of year.
Was out at Santee Boulders and got motivated by a young kid to do the Animal Mantle, 5.11, on the Dead Animal Traverse. It was dusk so the headlamps came out when it was my turn. Patrick wasn't successful on his attempt but I was feeling light so I was hopeful. I made quick work of the traverse then hung on the lip below the mantle. I've done this many times before but am always concerned about my weight for this usually shuts me down. Hanging there I felt pretty good so I prepared to throw my "elbow to the sky". I cranked hard up onto my right palm but my chest started to drop a bit below the lip so I tried to compensate when something in my right lower ribcage POPPED twice causing me to somehow make a controlled eight foot fall to the pads and three spotters below!
"My ribs, my ribs. Something has happened to my ribs!" I grunted, bent over on my knees. An off-duty firefighter/EMT was there and began to assess me. All due respect but I just wanted him to shut up and leave me alone so I could get comfortable (and to think that I was a Paramedic for 15 years)!
I ended up in the local ER and went home with a fractured 8th rib.
Did some ice bouldering in Community Cave on the backside of the Terminator column in Spearfish Canyon over the lunch hour. Going out tonight to iceclimb under the stars with some new partners. After a couple weeks of cold and snow the ice gets real sticky on these 50 degree days.
Yesterday: knocked some of the rust off, fun in the sun climbing at the
Reed's Pinnacle area.
Sandlot society and BAWC were well represented.
I climbed the OW on Bongs Away for the first time and enjoyed the heck
out of it.
Not today but two days ago and I have to admit I only followed as that was merely my second time ice climbing.
One hour hike in from the car including about a mile through half a meter of freshly fallen powder snow. Walked back after dark in the beams of our headlamps through a completly quiet and snowed in forest.
I got a new chalkbag for Christmas, so I got my favorite reindeer to go bouldering with me (but I had to agree to waxing her skis and taking her skiing if we got 6 or more inches of fresh overnite).And went bouldering. Now I just finished waxing, powder day!
Was still very very wet on the sandstone today, so we popped over to Urban Crag and pulled on some limestone for a couple hours. Ran into a friend I haven't seen in a long time and visited with some nice kids that were hiking down past the crag. Was a great day!
Update: I'm back in action...after only three weeks, post rib fracture, wohoooo! Although a bit of anxiety, I'm already able to pull, undercling, etc., but found that when I have to torque/pull with my right leg it involves the right side of my torso, hence my ribcage, so that stops me pretty quickly. I get sweaty just thinking about mantles so until further notice, that's out of the question!
Below are a few recent December climbing day trips using a new Nikkor 28-300 zoom lens. I was skeptical that an all-round zoom of this range would be a huge compromise but the versatility outweighs the reduced image quality. I seem to get better shots because I don't need to change lenses.
Joshua Tree Dairy Queen Wall
Notice the nice attentive belay!
Typical JTree vista...ahhhh!
Jae on Poodles are People Too
Jae in the Echo area on some unknown 5.8
Jae on So Fun in Echo Cove
Another day trip to Echo Cliffs in the Santa Monica Mountains
Gabby on a 12B...I was happy to on-sight 10B that day....maybe in the next life I'll come back as Gabby
I did climb yesterday. :D Bouldered/toproped in the Valley Center area with a couple of really super cool dudes, great climbers, Chas and Doug. I have fantastic pics but I still can't get them on this gol' durn place.
As soon as I get time from work I'll check out a professional to see what up with this pic disaster and my computer.
Hey Jaybro :DD Missing you and the No Cal climbers so much. Anytime any of you want to come down and stay love to have you all.
Yes I have downloaded all my pics for months to my computer. I have some fun ones and some really good bouldering pics.
I can email pics, but I cannot post to ST. I go through the steps to download and when the green bars scroll across the bottom of the page they die at bar 4 and then eventually it says unable to ....... I'm at a loss.
Try decreasing the size of the photo first Lynne. Find the "Paint" program in your "Start" menu. "Open" the picture file to the Paint program. Click on Image/Skew and reduce the size by 50%. "SaveAs" the file then try that into the Photo option on Supertopo.
Look at you all climbing on dry sunny rock :)
Yesterday I 'climbed' three peaks in the Catskills - really a snowshoe hike but the climbs are steep. We did an out and back so climbed two peaks twice. 7F was the high temp so we did not stop much except for good photo ops:
Line up the cobbles waiting... Nowhere near as easy as it looks.
Sit start undercling, fire for right crimp, thin foot up right, smear left thigh under lip, crimp, stab for a blind left foot under, right side pull crimp, left foot smear, crimp, rail, mantle. Mental crux is the down climb.
Working it... Holds are all there, but I haven't gunned for it yet.
Had a couple good days in the Valley last weekend. It had been a few weeks since I had gotten out and climbed (which I'm sure some people will scoff at, but that's pretty long time with no climbing for me!). I've been doing pullups at home but it's my legs that are most sore. My feet also seem to have rediscovered their pain sensors in my time off, since my climbing shoes were a lot less comfortable than I remember.
We did Commissioner Buttress on Saturday. It was totally dry and quite fun. First 2 pitches are great, then it gets kind of easy and loses its exposure.
We still had lots of day light so we decided to take another lap via After Five which didn't go quite as well. The first pitch finishes with a bunch of hummock climbing that gets progressively steeper. Finally you get a bit of pro down and right of the last vertical section. The hummocks were sopping wet and barely clinging to the rock. The whole slab of mud and grass was threatening to peel off the wall and send me along with 200lbs of dirt flying. I eventually downclimbed and moved a bit left onto some actual rock and was able to traverse back to the belay tree from there. This is actually the way you're supposed to do it, and is pretty well described in the old Roper guide. I was using the Reid guide which has little more than a line with 2 trees on it for a topo. After reaching the tree I took a look up at the second pitch which is one of the mungiest gullies I've ever seen and decided to bail. We got down and Megan led After Seven to finish off the day.
Sunday was very cloudy so we decided to crag. I wanted to climb The Buttocks up at Camp 4 wall since I've hiked past it so many times. Unfortunately it was totally wet and the start was covered in slime so that was a no-go. The sky was pissing a light rain off-and-on so we set up a toprope on Doggie Do. That climb was an epic struggle for me last September, but this time I went up it with some grunting but not too much flailing. Maybe it was the toprope or maybe it was the much cooler temps (last time I was sooo sweaty) but I was able to stick in it better. The weather had cleared up a bit by this point so I led Doggie Deviations and we also toproped the right start variation which was covered with ants.
Losing motivation to climb, we decided to drive out of the park, but I wanted to stop at Short Circuit, which I've never been to before.
I had read online somewhere that there was a bolted chimney on the boulder so we decided to check that out first. Man what a cool feature. It reminds me a bit of the Firewater Chimney in Josh, but wider...definitely a lot wider. I led 15 feet or so, until I got a look at the distance between the 2nd and 3rd bolts. Then I turned tail and downclimbed. Anyone know what that thing goes at? Looks like it's sure to have you doing the tipy-toe splits.
So then we decided to hang a toprope on Short Circuit. The climbs up the backside looked kind of sketchy so I aided the route instead. Took 4 laps each, which is the closest thing I've done to bouldering in a while. Great training. I feel like I improved my confidence on thin hands and finger stacks just from that one session. The best I managed was one hang, but maybe I'll get it clean next time.
Khanom, just good ole South Dakota. The bouldering is in a place away from most of the climbing around here. Lots of problems and a few good short cracks which seem to make good highballs. I have not seen another climber that did not come with me in the decade or so of climbing there. Mike
It might have been today or it might have been yesterday. The rock was cool and wet. I remember hanging on one arm while using a handkerchief to dry a hold with the other. I remember being unsure of footholds. But when I paused on a ledge and looked back, about to re-live the last section already, the water below rushing and circling told me to forget. I didn't need to bring back the past. It was there behind me shaping and impelling my future whether I thought about it or not. Like a wave on the ocean.
that, and I already know the route down to micrometer scale
Well, I didn't. It was kind of unstable weather here today, though it fined up in mid afternoon. And I'm climbing tomorrow.
Today I went to a talk by Doreen Larsen Riedel, the daughter of Henry Larsen. As in Henry Asbjørn Larsen, captain of the St. Roch, which was the vessel that made the second (1940 - 42) and third (1944) transits of the Northwest Passage, the first west-east, and the first in one season. The Norwegian embassy is putting on a series of talks on Arctic and Antarctic matters this year, to commemorate the centenary of Amundsen's team first getting to the South Pole, as well as to increase awareness. (Norway and Russia recently agreed on mineral rights in the Barents Sea, a major but unheralded event.)
Larsen was a Norwegian-Canadian born quite close to Amundsen's birthplace, who lived 1899 - 1964. The St. Roch was an RCMP Arctic patrol vessel, and he was its captain for nearly 20 years. He eventually became an inspector. A coast guard icebreaker is named for him, plus the St. Roch is in covered drydock at the Maritime Museum in Vancouver, much like the Fram and now Gjøa at Bygdøy in Oslo. Pretty neat stuff.
Several descendants of Amundsen's cousins who live in Canada came to the talk a month ago. They have living cousins in Gjøa Havn on the south coast of King William Island in Nunavut - Amundsen and his men had country wives, and DNA analysis has now confirmed their ancestry. If their large noses weren't already a tipoff - Inuit don't have them.
I forgot. A Henry Larsen joke. So he was in the RCMP, aka Royal Canadian Mounted Police, formerly the Royal Northwest Mounted Police. (Known irreverently as the "horsemen", and other things.) They were formed to suppress the Northwest Rebellion in 1885 - 86, in Manitoba and Saskatchewan, when Metis culture was subjugated. (Nobody was innocent in that fight.) Anyway, as you can tell from the name, horse riding was a big part of the routine - still is, with the musical ride and other stuff they do when they're not tasering innocent immigrants.
Larsen came from a fishing town, and was a mariner. He didn't enlist in the RCMP until he was in his 20s, older than the typical farm boy recruit. So he didn't have to go through semi-military basic training in Regina, and was probably the first RCMP inspector (high rank) who not only couldn't really ride a horse, but who was ordered not to. There was no shortage of farmboys who were just fine on horses, but competent Arctic pilots in the RCMP were as rare as hens' teeth.
Did some cragging at Pie Shop.
Road House Blues was the standout route of the day. Tricky face climbing to a flake.
Was basically the season opener for me and it was a good one. These are the days where in some places you can do a lap of corn in the morning and climb on granite in the afternoon. Welcome spring!
Goatboy what's up. Are you hittting up Butte again this year. I hope to get over there a couple of times this year. The pictures are from Big Horn Peak in the Big Horn Mountains, WY. Many walls on both sides of that peak.
5 and dime, three times on solo tr. Copper penny, 2 times on solo tr. Nutcracker in 1.5 hours, first time up it, what a beauty! Finished off the day with laps on an amazing V2 finger crack above curry village, short circuit or circuit breaker or whatever its called.
Got on Block and Tackle (stellar .12a finger crack), at the Lion's Den, near Mammoth yesterday. Hadn't been climbing much for a while and only recently started getting on harder things again, so expected to get totally shut down. Not so much. Two hangs. Pretty psyched!!!
Was at Triple Cracks today, did a few things there - some .10c, flaring thing with an awkward pod, an OW and a few other things. Feeling really good and feels really good to be climbing again! Suhweet!
Nice, Chinchen! Was at Pine Creek few days ago, Rock Creek the day after! GREAT time for East Side climbing!
I'd never ventured past Disco Wall, so I was psyched to get a little farther afield. Tourists CRAWLING all over the usual loop, but great weather and no climbing crowds.
Started at Discovery with Cleft, Swallow and Jorgie's Cracks (nice lead, Rob!), then to Monolith for Regular and Terranean Tango (again led ably by my partner), and finally to Gertie's Pinnacle for ... a couple of things not in my guidebook.
One of the very best routes at the Spires yet never gets done. Starts up Fear of Flying, then below the crux (40 ft) pulls out right onto the face just right of the arete. Heads up and right to the belay of Stepping Stone. P2 traverses up and left back to the arete, crosses Neckless Traverse to 2 small roofs and then amazingly pulls arount the corner onto an overhanging, juggy crack that is directly over Fear of Flying. After about 15 feet pull back around the right side of the arte for a final minor slab crux befoe heading to the top. Probably 10d and 11a A bit sporty in spots and needs a full rack up to camalot 3, but mainly small to medium. I added a direct start this week that takes the variation direct start to F of F, than stays on the right side of the arete, never joining F of F. probably 11b/c (small gear and 2 bolts).
Has anyone done it or know the FA or name?
This is a classic trad route for the grade and ought to be on the tick list
Tried to get 42 problems at Horsetooth for my 42nd, ended up getting 50ish, mostly easy but man is that place fun with a lot of climbable rock. My second time bouldering in the area but the first was on some traversing stuff well below the lake. Spent my first day at Rotary Park and had a blast. Got there at 7 and there was no one there all morning. Went and picked up the family and went back and climbed several more problems. Rockies game to finish it off on the upper deck so we also climbed a lot of steps.
And we were careful, sometimes poo poo occurs. The knot got hung up on the lip on that last rap. Plus the wind was looping the ropes on every single flake on the wall when we tossed them. All part of the adventure!
Those slings that are there are pretty faded, hopefully the next time they get replaced they will extend them a bit further, will make it easier.
Yesterday: 5/27 Indian Springs lower tier with friends from our climbing club; the Sierra Mountaineering Group. Nice weather (not too cold and the south facing climbs were all free of snow but there was still a lot of snow up there for this time of year). We practiced climbing in mountaineering boots, approach shoes and rock shoes, practiced belaying, rappelling, setup some anchors, placed cams, and just had a great time up there.
Funny (sort of) one of our party arrived later around noon. We could hear but couldn't see some trucks below us on the road. So when he arrives he sees what turned out to be fire trucks with lights on next to our van on the road. He looks up and sees all these firemen suited up so he then thinks oh crap! This isn't good and runs up to the upper tier (we were climbing on the lower tier and he didn't know that. So he gets up there and sees the firemen gathered in a circle then he runs up to them and says he's with a group of climbers and wants to know what happened (thinking the worst) and they turn to him and say ... we're up here doing some training ....
So he then descends to find us down below ... safe and sound.
Climbed some easy stuff today - BUT, I was OUTSIDE, it was a great day and I got to LEAD, which I've been itching to do lately. And did my first clusterf*ck lead 2 pitch route. Sport with bolted anchors, so I need to practice rope handling some more for sure!
Also TR'd a harder climb that was the most fun pitch o' the day.
Now I'm sitting at home happy listening to the rain outside.
My new ghetto trash wall. I got the sheet of plywood on sale at home depot in Carson City, and filled it with nothing I paid for, 'cept 25 cents or something from the thrift store (drilled broken bricks etc). I tried a couple of sit starts today.
First trip to the Grotto at Table Mountain. Miwuksurfer & I did some moderate hand-cracks, the AC Devil Dog double-arete route, and (struggled up) fun & tough finger cracks. We had the mountain to ourselves, and the temps were quite pleasant in the Grotto even though it was 95 in the surrounding area.
Somewhere early on ACDD--in the difficulties--my inner moron piped up with "holy s&^t this is tricky; I would hate to be LEADING this"; the reply from my inner slightly-less-of-a-moron, was "don't freak on me now, but we ARE leading this".
Just got back from Monday at Index, Tuesday at Exit 32, and Wednesday and Thursday in Leavenworth (my brother and I had our sons with us for three of the four days). Last night, we capped it off with our monthly "Bouldering/BBQ" in our garage (had about 25 people over), and today is rest day. Fun! Will add some pics later.
From Exit 32 (Little Si):
All in all, a great week with family, friends, and unusually good weather.
Explored a little crag in the Gorge, the Far Side. The cleaning tool was employed quite often. There was a gear retrieval mission at day's end when I just could not commit to the power move to finish the climb. You would instantly recognize the spot as all the vegetation and dirt was excavated high on the route is a desparate search for a reasonable piece of pro. My husband's sore from the looong time on belay.
Last night at Campbell county rec center, Gillette wyoming. Devils Tower like climbing structure by Eldorado walls. That, weights, olympic pool, indoor tennis courts and track, water slide, etc, all for a $4 day pass!
Ok not today, but the first chance I have had to sit down and post anything as I spent 9 days in the Winds on a trip of a lifetime with Donini. Here are a couple of photos and will post a TR when I get a chance. This thread has seem to hit a roadblock, but I would love to see what you all are climbing and I know a lot of you are getting out. Here are a few photos.
took a sport climber out for his first multi-pitch climb that also happened to be his first trad climb. Gotta convert them all one by one. I believe the first was Direct Face on Cobb Rock in Boulder Canyon, and the second was Classic Finger Crack on the Elephant Buttress in Boulder Canyon
Today being relative...Bump for PhilG, one hellova good friend, climber, and an all-round positive influence on all those who know him. A week or so ago we got several pitches in on Castle Rock near Leavenworth. Not bad for a couple of guys in their mid-60s? Thanks Phil, for 50 incredible years of climbing with you!!
Donini, did a lot of eating and working since getting back but I will be ready for spring in the Black. Steve I would love to climnb out in the northeast some day. I will try to send some pics when I get a chance.
I'll second your bump for Phil Gleason. I haven't seen him in 40 years, but have run into his son in the Valley a few times. Phil did a good job raising his son - a chip off the old block. Both great guys!
Got up this thing for the first time without a rope. It was a real good day beautiful weather great rock and this was the first thing I had ever done at this area but with a rope. It is a beautiful double crack with perfiect jams the whole way. I think I started climbing up herejust prior to 9/11 and it was a great way to spend the day.
Here's a pretty cell-phone photo of things growing in a planter in our stairwell:
Today I climbed in bluey's territory with a newlywed couple of psyched new climbers: Indian Rock South Face and Puckered Starfish, Lime Disease Rock Ticks Ripped My Flesh, Pig's Feet, Lucky in Love, and Caunt Arete.
Happy Boulders, my V0 circuit. 13 cars at the parking, a little cooler today.
The persistent above normal temps have really encouraged the mosquitoes which come up from the river. They were dense back at the parking at dusk. A good freeze would help a lot.
On friday, I skied a blizzard in Mammoth and then finished up the day climbing obscure and useless routes on the rim of the Happy Boulders. There are some classics up there that I haven't done in so long, I might as well have never done them.
My oldest boy did his first ice climb yesterday. 1/2 pitch WI 2, but it was only 2F, fortunately no wind. When I pulled the top ice screw when rapping off, water flowed out of it like a fountain. Planning to pull on some plastic today.
Yesterday i did my usual solo routine @ the leap. Then i worked on my lead roped solo w/ the gri gri. why do I feel safer free soloing? I guess i feel pretty good about the gri gri catching me if i fall but it short ropes me so much that climbing anything solidly in my need a belay range seems sketchy?
Today I made it pretty high up a ridge trying to fill my freezer. watched te sun rise on a different ridge yesterday but this evening i was up pretty high. wind was honking and bambi was hunkered down. Found places where they had bedded down on small belay type ledges just below the top of a 40ft rock band. pretty cool stuff.
Climbed at the Rock Maze by Nemo with my kids and my parents today and at the Sunshine Wall in Spearfish Canyon on Wed. Forgot a shoe on Wed. and a buddy borrowed me one that had been chewed by marmots and was two sizes too small but we made it work.
Happy Boulders late this afternoon. There were 82 cars at the parking! The record, at least by my counting, is 89 a few years ago, also on the day after Thanksgiving. An absolutely beautiful afternoon with mild temps.
Barry climbed Elephant Walk ( 4 pitches of 5.7) , which would be a very boring post except that it was 11 weeks minus 1 day from when he stepped off the roof and got a bit broken. Nowhere to go now except up.
Climbed Bridal Veil Falls a couple of times in the last few days. Once with my son. Looking more like winter everyday thankfully. At least we don't have to put up with those darn warm temps all winter, phewwww!
Tension that pile too much and you'll pull it over!
Yeah, I know, right?
I normally put in 3 bolts per side for a line this long (if there is no natural gear) but on the tower side the first to holes I drilled were in pretty soft rock (although the bolts tightened down just fine). I decided to put two more bolts back further. These two holes were in some of the hardest rock I've ever drilled in the desert. Weird, being that it was on the same cap stone. Anyway I'm guessing 3 to 4 kns of tension on the line.