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Marlow
Sport climber
OSLO
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Nov 16, 2011 - 06:18pm PT
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That's great Tami. There may be combinations u know. History-books that also contain photos and descriptions of classical routes. That may just add to the thrill if done properly. Heard of Hinterstoisser Quergang, Todesbiwak and Die Weisse Spinne? ;o)
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 14, 2011 - 12:35am PT
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The south coast has been suffering from a high pressure spell as of late.
As a snowboarder at heart this can be somewhat troubling, but the climber in me embraced Kyle's bold idea of hiking up to Spanky's wall last week before the chair opened to take advantage of these inversion conditions in the high alpine.
The groomers had laid a fine carpet so the hiking was rather easy. When I arrived, Kyle was rigging a convenient rappel.
We top roped a 5.9 warm up as my late arrival had left us with a very small window before darkness would descend.
It was a beautiful day and the cloud which had been shrouding the wall in shade all day conveniently left and the sun basked us in it's warmth.
More soon.. Life intervenes...
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thekidcormier
Trad climber
squamish, b.c.
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Dec 14, 2011 - 12:48am PT
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Nice flicks Cowp Cowp
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MH2
climber
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Dec 14, 2011 - 12:51am PT
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That is a nice day and great images.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 14, 2011 - 01:53am PT
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It was a fantastic day indeed. The lighting and clouds made for some unique photographic opportunities.
I have photographed many alpenglow scenes but never from such an epic vantage point
Kyle was silouetted by the sunset as he packed up the rope.
We got to the top of the crag as the light was fading fast and Kyle quickly had a bite of his sandwich while he waited for me.
We rode Ruby Bowl in the almost full moonlight and were plunged into darkness as we rounded the corner on Blackcomb Glacier Road.
When we reached the truck, we pledged to return on friday when the weather was supposed to be good again.
Here is a sneak preview.
Blister in the Sun 5.9 Spanky's Wall, Blackcomb.
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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Dec 14, 2011 - 02:41am PT
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Going back a few posts, Bill Morris and I once put up a route called "Partners in Grime", but not at Squamish. The moss and dirt came off in sheets.
Kid, as I understand it there are three, yes three, Squamish books on the way.
Marc Bourdon is planning a comprehensive, as noted above.
Kevin McLane and Andrew Boyd are working on both a Squamish Comprehensive, and a Squamish Classics--Select.
It's going to be duelling guidebooks, and then some! Too late for Santa, so save your allowances, boys and girls.
HM
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 14, 2011 - 05:13pm PT
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Hamie- Looking forward to a new good comprehensive up-to-date guide book.. No more printed topos in my ruck sack?
Last friday was Kyle's birthday, and the weather was nice so we headed up to the wall again with a few more people in tow.. It got pretty warm in the afternoon sun, i swear it was almost 20C at one point.
When we got there I hung a rope to jumar on the aret and Kyle got ready to lead Blister in the Sun 5.9
Kyle reaches for the roof clip on Blister in the Sun.
Getting into the layback.
Blister in the Sun goes left at the roof, Ski Bum Come 5.10a goes right up the crack feature.
Kyle with the head jam gaining the roof feature, as Nina belays
More soon..
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 15, 2011 - 03:11am PT
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After Blister Kyle led Ski Bum Come 10a
Kyle climbed my fixed line on You'll Go Blind 5.9 to take it down.
I led one after this. Kyle took some good pics.. I'll see if i can rustle some up soon.
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perswig
climber
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Dec 15, 2011 - 06:11am PT
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Nice recent additions here. That looks like an excellent day.
Dale
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 16, 2011 - 02:38am PT
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Dale- Thanks it was quite warm and beautiful.. We couldn't have asked for much more.
After the roof on Ski Bum Come
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thekidcormier
Trad climber
squamish, b.c.
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Dec 16, 2011 - 11:57am PT
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Sending Apron strings w/ big mike on belay
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 16, 2011 - 01:19pm PT
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Sick Luke! I still can't beleive you onsighted that crux.
Kyle tops out on Ski Bum Come
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 16, 2011 - 02:37pm PT
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You guys named a few wierd ones in your time too i'm sure :)
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thekidcormier
Trad climber
squamish, b.c.
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Dec 16, 2011 - 03:52pm PT
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Mike your turning the squamish photos and stories thread into the Kyle climbing spankys thread, enough already, lets see some different zone!
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 16, 2011 - 04:38pm PT
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Sorry dude just posting the newest ones I have... keep posting yours! Would love to see more of everyone else's too!
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thekidcormier
Trad climber
squamish, b.c.
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Dec 16, 2011 - 04:44pm PT
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just jibbin dude, but it would make more sence if you got alot of photos of one zone to just make a TR...
but then again this thead was created out of your willingness to do so, so doo what ever you please!
It was certainly in my best interest to onsight it as a fall from there with rope running behind my leg as it is would not have been a pleasent experience...
http://thekidcormier.blogspot.com
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 19, 2011 - 03:18am PT
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Luke, you are correct I could have done a TR, but with the lack of action around here for the last month, I thought I would brush the dust off this thread instead.
Sort of a tr bump I guess.
You are certainly correct. That fall would have been nasty. I remember being quite amazed when you neglected to place at the crux and go for the send.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 19, 2011 - 06:06pm PT
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Chico guards the summit from Will
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Fish Boy
Trad climber
Vancouver
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Dec 19, 2011 - 06:30pm PT
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La Coalition 3rd pitch
La Coalition 3rd pitch
La Coalition 5th pitch...nails!
Da 'Beav
The Mrs on Mosquito
1st route I ever did at Squamish, some 11a behind the campground
The offwidth half way up Angels Crest, not too bad either
Taking a breather while rope soloing Angels Crest
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