Trip Report
The First Vedauwoo Sushifest
Sunday September 23, 2012 11:57pm
D'oh put this in the wrong place first.....

The Vedauwoo Sushifest;
-A Firemonkey’s journey east, to the Wild West.

I was out,
it was grim,
then things began to change...

Last time we made this trip had been in the famed 5.10OW,
Credit: Jaybro
may she rest in active peace. This time Ed picked me up in the sleek new ride, his newish 6 speed jetta TDI wagon propelled by a modernized version of the powerplant that breathed life into the intrepid Westie.
A/c Tunes, no engine noise, it was a different, more 21st century experience, set the cruise control and stop for gas in Wells(?)
I drove another three hundred miles or so, My record for distance driven in one of Ed’s vehicles without exploding it!! ( See Sushifest one Tr somehere in the Taco archives)

Overnight at Mike’s in SLC was once again the welcomly non kinetic, thought provoking, oasis that is a key feature of this drive. Dinner on the back deck in the last of the light to the serenade of Locust, rested the bones. Man Costco makes a mean Blackbean portabello burger!

Up in the morning and on the road a scant two coffees after mike’s 5:30 workday start. A mere, 450 Miles, to go!

The Plan was to get to Vedauwoo (1200 mikes) with only gas stop. After some serious number crunching and an uncomfortable section of driving through the unpopulated wilds with the the 'lo gas' light on we stopped for fuel some 22 miles short of Laramie. Ed informed me that this was an over 600 mile Tank. The gauges and computers on the car said 47MPG but Ed seemed skeptical... These mad scientists can be a surly, analytic lot... in any case we each had ice cream to celebrate. Oh and Plums! Did I mention that Mike had bushels of freshly harvested Plums and we had a bag of them which he promised to add to when he was to meet us @ Sushivoo, three days hence?

Ed and Luciile, we must be getting close!

Vedauwoo at Last!!
First stop site 11 in the lower campground. The bark beetle tree devastation is even worse than last year; didn’t that stump used to be the tree that Peewee hung a pullup bar from last summer?


Storms brewing the skies were ominous, time to go Climbing. What better way to translate angular momentum upward Vedauwoo-eze than a quick Romping Team Solo up TM Chimney? 200 feet of 1 to three foot wide chimney, Nestled here at 8k,’ what could be better for unfolding limbs that have been confined in a car for two days and a trip that started at 72 feet above sea level?

As we prepare, a strange, to me, County 5 pickup drives past, stops and Backs up. Rachel and Zac, local guidebook Moguls. Laughs were had, stories shared. Introductions made.


Thomas Magary, aka, TM chimney, does not disappoint! Especially after the better part of two days in the car, a trip that started at sea level and had deposited us at over eight thousand feet!

Wheeze, all the way head rushes, I had been training a lot (100 plus bike miles and 500 pullups the week before) and it helped but 8k is 8k!! I looked over at the eledg on top of Fall wall, an easy stroll unless I totally blacked out and pitched, which was possible!! But I didn’t and had a sitdown.

How's Ed Doing?

how's the weather?

How's Ed taking it?

Maybe we should get going?
Or hang out a little more

Take in the view of MRC

okay pop up to the top, one more breather, and we're out of here...


Wednesday morning like the old guys we are, we were up at dawn after going to bed possibly before dark the night before. A jog around the turtle rock trail as the sun rose seemed to set the world a right and secure my place in it.
Credit: Jaybro

Not in tune yet, last year I went too fast here, fooled by getting in killer indian Creek/desert shape and expecting it to carry over into Vedauwoo, I missed a nuance on a free solo, took a twenty footer and broke my foot.
So we went slowly,
Credit: Jaybro
Meditated under Nats three star
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before plying some jams
and onto Spin to win
Credit: Jaybro

Oh man did I feel out of Shape! shoulders popping from too much training and too little climbing....

As the heat built we headed to the shade, which fooled us into complacency and going out into the high desert sun again, this time to romp up on Plumbline, classic 5.9 Handcrack, only to find it was the only, occupied, climb in Vedauwoo. Five hippie children and a dog name Zappa, struggled in the sun listening to a boombox belting Creedence. I’d done an early ascent of this route 30-35 years before and the scene seemed eerily similar.

After the kids split Ed led and I clung to every bit of shade available. Ack! 8,000’ 90ºF, south facing, What were we thinking? After Ed got the rope up I tied in, hiding in a crevice to lace my TC’s before offering my rand trapped toes to the furnace. As I stood up into the crack I felt queazy, hmm, something alimentary, maybe it was the plums. The jams felt okay though, as the sweat poured down the bill of my King’s rope™ hat and dripped onto my glasses, foggin them. More jams, more cams, more gurgles from the lower intestines....
a moment of battle with a stubborn green (small) camalot at the top and I tightened against a coming Kruck moment....

Top out and lower. “Ed Toilet paper?”

... filling uo the hole fifteen minutes later and I felt better, still dizzy, but stable enough to burrow into a shaded hole and belay Ed on Toprope. ( I decided no more plums!) Couldn’t hide from the sun to pack the pack, and it seemed to take forever. The hike over the boulders was trippy and tippy, but by the time we got back in the aspens with the breeze, life was again good!

The delerium may have affected my sense of order here but I believe we revived enough for a team solo up Ed’s crack with soothing breezes and scorching rock, Even that one had it’s moments.
Somewhere in there we learned that Nature and Tarbuster were due in sometime around 11 that, night. We knew it would be a challenge to stay up, so we gathered up our tired dried up bones to find tired dried up firewood, Which, thanks to the beetle kill, was easy to come by!

We talked sh#t until late building the fire as we sank further into our (Ed’s) chairs.

“Headlights”
“It’s got a trailer”

Nature ‘n Tar, it had been a long time....
The next morning
Credit: Jaybro
after another run,
there were even more additional arrivals;
[url=[/url" target="_blank" rel="nofollow">http://s28.photobucket.com/albums/c241/jaybro_1956/?action=view¤t=6bb32662.mp4][/url]


Then Grug showed, up and as there were only three Moose they felt intimidated and wandered off.
Credit: Jaybro
Then it was time to find the sushi spot prime!
Em had made a reservation of the Gazebo

which looked handy for our needs

But it was determined that it was only open till 8pm! So further exploration was in order

Blair was chosen over the road 700 corridor to Cheyenne/tweaker expressway.

We Were a caravan. Ed and I decided to leave camp pitched in the campground ’just in case’ and break camp later. So I road with Nature and Ed and Tar pooled and Grug brought up the rear, over the course of the morning we flipflopped between cars.

Many spots were looked at, dang there are some fine bivvy spots in Blair!!
Doug the ever responsible host with the most

Credit: Jaybro
wanted to be sure we had just the right cell signal to guide folks in without getting lost. What a considerate guy! Grug decided to stick with one of the wooded spots we found though, and established ait as a bedroom community of Metro Sushi central.

Sushi Central established

we sat down to hors devour and a taste of what was to come,




Another morning, a restday from, running,a time to take time out, smell the sage and snap some photos;
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Credit: Jaybro
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Credit: Jaybro
and greet the morning's ungulates;
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Credit: Jaybro
then drink coffee and make plans
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Credit: Jaybro
What's that? Behind the eight ball?
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A big Crack,called bighouse perfect for Nature's first lead and indeed climb, at Vedauwoo!
A ten minute stroll and it was time to armor up
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Credit: Jaybro
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Roy and the eightball
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Ed's turn on the bighouse
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Then Eeyonkee as Part of his shoulder surgery rehab, decided to attempt to insight Burningman, 5.11 OW as his fifth climb of the year
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Credit: Jaybro
Well....I think I speak for all of us when I say...We'll be back!
Then it was time to head back to the main area and greet sushifest arrivals

Blitzo, Locker, Gal, Mike F!
We split up for more climbing Ed and I with Mike and the ever adventurous Gal went Sportclimbing with Blitzo and Locker!
Credit: Jaybro
Mike Making quick work of Lower Progressive
Followed by Mark Jenkins who wandered up, fresh from Summiting Mt Everest!
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Credit: Jaybro

But,
didn't we have dinner plans?

Soon, back at the Ranch
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Looks like Malcom had arrived,
Dr Hartouni explains Unified string theory or maybe dark wasabi matter...
Dr Hartouni explains Unified string theory or maybe dark wasabi matter to Rachel, Zac, Malcom Daly, and Dingus McGee
Credit: Jaybro
the crowd grows


It would be hard to find three more unique individuals, Ed H, Dingus M...
It would be hard to find three more unique individuals, Ed H, Dingus McGee, Malcom Daly
Credit: Jaybro
Gal, Ed,& Tarboyroy will not be left out!





More first night Frolix;
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Jaybro
Jaybro
Credit: mike Friedrichs
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Six hours of fish feeding the first night, if anyone is counting

Saturday
When in Blair climb spectreman!
stolen Image <br/>
Joe Cupps, Dingus McGee, Jaybro, German guy&#40;name?&#...
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Joe Cupps, Dingus McGee, Jaybro, German guy(name?),MaxJ,(name?)Ed H, MikeF, Greg Cameron, Gal, SteveW
LaFarge and McGee share a laugh
LaFarge and McGee share a laugh
Credit: Jaybro
what is Lute looking at?
what is Lute looking at?
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Credit: Jaybro
Mike Friedrichs, Ed Hartouni, Dennis Horning &#40;aka Dingus McGee&#41;
Mike Friedrichs, Ed Hartouni, Dennis Horning (aka Dingus McGee)
Credit: Jaybro
Credit: Jaybro

But Back to Spectreman...
Referred to by many as "The best Climb in Vedauwoo" (even though it's in Blair.)
5.11 wide hands to fingers, with stems, in a double overhanging corner.
Fa By John Wilke Ca 1980. A party ascent, Myself, John Rutt, Maybe Greg Waterman, in attendance and all Tr-ed it. I swear Joe Cupps was there too, but this day he said he thought he wasn't present. Time be time and 32/420 years is a long time ago...

It was on the Cover of one of the Heel and Toe guidebooks.
Mike Friedrichs has probably climbed it more times than anyone else on this orb.
here he goes now!
Credit: Jaybro
Credit: Jaybro
Credit: Jaybro
He didn't have much rope drag.....
Here's Grug, determined to do some damge to his new shoulder.
Credit: Jaybro

Max lead it this day, too! Welcome to Vedauwoo!
There's Catherine (gal) about to top out
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And Mighty Ed on a one Biscuit ascent
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Credit: Jaybro
Asia &#40;aka Rocket dog&#41;, Roy,Grug, Gal, Max
Asia (aka Rocket dog), Roy,Grug, Gal, Max
Credit: Jaybro

I couldn't climb it for shiit that day,
Pfffft!

So Sushi, Spectreman, Saturday was also punctuated by the appearance of Human Centaurs, some sort of equistrian event that was to go on all weekend;
Credit: Jaybro
they were a mixed bag, some very nice, others who acted like they owned the place though they did not clean up after themselves
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ever see a van quite like that one?
solar panels, V-10?
Credit: Jaybro
winch?
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fridge?
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other homey touches?
Credit: Jaybro

I kinda want one....

After spectreman and before time for more sushi the crowd dispersed to various other projects. Many stayed and climbed around Blair, Some chopped Fish, and some of us went to central Vedaudoo.
As part of an ongoing Video project Mike F soloed upper slot wjile Ed videoed. Then the weather got rough! unfortunately stranding Mike on the summit, in shorts without a rope!
Max, to the rescue, his second climb in Vedauwoo!
Credit: Jaybro
Credit: Jaybro
Generally from this point the view is of multiple 14ers spread from Le...
Generally from this point the view is of multiple 14ers spread from Leadville to Estes...Hope nobody is on the diamond down there....
Credit: Jaybro
When rescue was complete Ed conducted an interview with the survivors...
Credit: Jaybro
our own Ingmar Bergman as a mad scientist with a little Bob Ross rolled in...
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It being Wyoming, a few minutes later the weather had changed and we looked for something dry to climb. We Ran into to Eyonkee, who was taking advantage of the dry window to do a rare, one pitch ascent of Middle parallel space; a Jam Crack to Chimeny to crack with a delicate face exist sequence, all in one, hundred foot rope draggy epic.
As we walked around seeing the sights, the storm returned, our plans were dashed, but Greg's adventure, just below the face exit, was just beginning.
Credit: Jaybro
the kichens above him are only That hue when they are wet...
Below, a wider view
Credit: Jaybro
on the quicktime video I made you can see when the wind almost whisks him to Oz and hear our reactions....
Credit: Jaybro
Credit: Jaybro

all too soon, back at camp....
No Sh#t, there I was...
No Sh#t, there I was...
Credit: Jaybro
What sort of supplies does a mobile sushi restaurant agogo require?
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An assortment of chopstick imported on a trip to mysterious east
An assortment of chopstick imported on a trip to mysterious east
Credit: Jaybro
an arma and a leg
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fun people with an appetite
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Credit: Jaybro
If only you could hear the words of Wisdom Doug had just imparted on t...
If only you could hear the words of Wisdom Doug had just imparted on these impressionable young men...
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eight hours of Sushi!!
Sunday morning,
Cleanup
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Credit: Jaybro
Ed, pursuing another ongoing project
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Credit: Jaybro
Credit: Jaybro
A last time at the crags before the long drive west
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the hike out
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to Valley Massiff
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Credit: Jaybro
Some to climb
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others to walk away
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and some to make sense of it all
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  Trip Report Views: 1,839
Jaybro
About the Author
Jaybro is a social climber from Wolf City, Wyoming

Comments
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neebee

Social climber
calif/texas
  Sep 24, 2012 - 12:01am PT
hey there say, jaybro...

wow, thanks for the trip report...
can't see the pics, yet, so can't comment, but very glad to
see your report, :)


thanks again! :)
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Author's Reply  Sep 24, 2012 - 12:03am PT
Hey Neebs! You might want to look at the Forum version of this that I put up earlier, it's smaller bites and probably more dial up friendly!
em kn0t

Trad climber
isle of wyde
  Sep 24, 2012 - 12:36am PT
Nice! Did you intentionally spell "hors devours" instead of "hors d'oeuvres"? Brilliant!
But nitpicks aside, really sweet to see the start-to-finish photos and clever captions; great way to tell the story.
snowhazed

Trad climber
Oaksterdam, CA
  Sep 24, 2012 - 12:41am PT
Yeah!
stich

Trad climber
Colorado Springs, Colorado
  Sep 24, 2012 - 08:28am PT
A complete report with more pictures than I could have hoped for! Well done.
SushiRoll-erTrainee

climber
Buford, WY
  Sep 24, 2012 - 04:05pm PT
Great photos and commentary! Thanks everyone, for a great sushifest and I'm waiting for next year's event.
The SusihRoll-erTrainee
(actually, not a climber.... but a participator just the same!)
SteveW

Trad climber
The state of confusion
  Sep 24, 2012 - 04:52pm PT

Awesome, Jaybro--just like the weekend was!
(well, aside from Mike F's half sizing you--LOL)!
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Author's Reply  Sep 24, 2012 - 05:23pm PT
Georgia, great to hear from you. You roll a tight hand roll! I couldn't believe you we're new to sushi, and neither could anyone else! Thank you for being there, it wouldn't have been what it was, without you!

And thanks, Em, Sttich, Steve & Neebee
nature

climber
Boulder, CO
  Sep 24, 2012 - 07:43pm PT
I like that you combined all the photos.

Georgia was a huge help. After 8 hours straight both nights I'm not sure what I would have done without her (roll until the sun comes up?).
Zander

climber
  Sep 24, 2012 - 07:50pm PT
Looks like fun Jaybro!
pc

climber
  Sep 24, 2012 - 08:19pm PT
Outstanding!

I just wish someday the "fish" would come within a 1 day drive of Pike Place Market.

eeyonkee

Trad climber
Golden, CO
  Sep 24, 2012 - 08:47pm PT
You gotta a knack for this photo-story-telling Jaybro, that's for sure.
Ezra Ellis

Trad climber
North wet, and Da souf
  Sep 24, 2012 - 09:42pm PT
One heck of a great TR, thanks for the pics!!!
philo

Trad climber
Is that the light at the end of the tunnel or a tr
  Sep 24, 2012 - 09:46pm PT
Awesome pics and TR. TFPU.
It was fun showing up in time for dishes.
PellucidWombat

Mountain climber
Berkeley, CA
  Sep 25, 2012 - 04:59am PT
hmmm, sushi & wyde . . . I guess as long as you get the ordering right that sounds like a good idea. Thanks for sharing! Vedauwoo keeps looking better and better. One of these days . . .
Daphne

Trad climber
Northern California
  Oct 4, 2012 - 12:38pm PT
Five hippie children and a dog name Zappa, struggled in the sun listening to a boombox belting Creedence. I’d done an early ascent of this route 30-35 years before and the scene seemed eerily similar.

Could it be you were having deja Vedauwoo?

Finally had the time to get through this comprehensive and climbing related TR and am delighted to give it a bump.
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Author's Reply  Oct 4, 2012 - 10:25pm PT
Vedauwoo déjà vu, woo hoo!
Though Ed too,
Saw that voodoo
And Ed looked eerily familiar too!
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
  Oct 4, 2012 - 01:07pm PT
WOW......quite the TR!!! I'll be there next year.
dogtown

Trad climber
Cheyenne, Wyoming and Marshall Islands atoll.
  Oct 4, 2012 - 09:24pm PT
Snowy Range Visitor Center
Snowy Range Visitor Center
Credit: dogtown
Hey, ED
Moose, Moose, Moose We have a bunch of Moose at the Crag theses days, cool No? The Population has grown in the pass few years. Along with the Puma population. Sorry we missed you all this year. Connie and I most commonly leave the islands the first of week May. Anyway I’m so bummed out I didn't get to share any of my new works at Blair with you all or any of the thing we have been doing. We also this summer built a new visitor center for Snowy Range It’s almost done so its take the money run back to the Marsall’s for the winter.

DT.
nature

climber
Boulder, CO
  Oct 13, 2012 - 04:21pm PT
2007 Sushifest IV:XX
2007 Flagstaff SushiFest
2007 Yosemite Facelift Sushi
2007 Joshua Tree SushiFest
2007 Arctic SushiFest

2008 Diablo Canyon SushiFest
2008 Yosemite Facelift Sushi

2009 Cochise Stronghold SushiFest
2009 Tarbuster SushiFest
2009 Winslow Wall SushiFest
2009 Indian Creek SushiFest

2010 Cochise Stronghold SushiFest
2010 Bridwell SushiFest
2010 Winslow Wall SushiFest
2010 Indian Creek SushiFest
2010 Cochise Stronghold SushiFest

2011 Winslow Wall SushiFest
2011 Layton Kor SushiFest
2011 Cochise Stronghold SushiFest

2012 Cochise Stronghold SushiFest
2012 Vedauwoo SushiFest
WyoRockMan

climber
Flank of the Big Horns
  Oct 16, 2012 - 02:46pm PT
Looks like an absolutely must crash party!
nutjob

Sport climber
Almost to Hollywood, Baby!
  Oct 16, 2012 - 03:52pm PT
It seems that several future route names were birthed on this trip:
Something Alimentary
No More Plums
Cruck Moment
Trippy and Tippy


Looks like a lot of fun!
justthemaid

climber
Jim Henson's Basement
  Oct 17, 2012 - 09:29am PT
Finally had time this morning to sit down and read some TR's

Awesome report. Hope to got here someday.

Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Author's Reply  May 23, 2013 - 11:12pm PT
August, skip, drag that guy of yours and the a frame, you'll love it, I promise!!
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