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NutAgain!
Trad climber
South Pasadena, CA
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Probably not many bumps because it's an elite few who can have a climb like this on their radar :) I won't ever be in that list, but it's nice to see pics of it!
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Kalimon
Social climber
Ridgway, CO
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Nice route photos tarallo and RP3 . . . proud ascent.
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bob
climber
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Go get it Snowhazed! That route is one of the best. Twice last summer.
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pvalchev
Social climber
Truckee, CA
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Aug 17, 2014 - 10:28pm PT
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Some guys were on it today! Anyone here? Looks like an amazing route.
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
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Aug 17, 2014 - 11:46pm PT
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Nice job, Snow!!!
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HighDesertDJ
Trad climber
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Aug 18, 2014 - 04:08am PT
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Nice job Snow. Give us the blow by blow!
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snowhazed
Trad climber
Oaksterdam, CA
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Yesterday I made a second attempt, redpointed under the corner, figured out the crux, and onsighted the rest except for the exit mantel, and topped out.
The climbing to the top of the corner is already hard and bold.....
The pitches after the corner are seriously runout, like they make the pitches under the corner seem overbolted, like 30-40 foot ledge fall potentials, like 50 feet out off your anchor in a sea of friction and knobs. Brilliant movement on perfect rock, Vern Clevenger, Claude Fiddler- quite the route you put up from the ground- yowza
I'm in a daze, the best kind
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Snow-dazed. Lol. Nice job dude I've been wanting to try this climb forever, looks so sick!!
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snowhazed
Trad climber
Oaksterdam, CA
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Apr 16, 2016 - 09:16pm PT
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This thread needs some pics
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Flip Flop
climber
Earth Planet, Universe
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Apr 16, 2016 - 09:24pm PT
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Nice
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tuolumne_tradster
Trad climber
Leading Edge of North American Plate
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Apr 17, 2016 - 05:01pm PT
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HoS bump...luv the shots in the dihedrals and out on the knobs
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NutAgain!
Trad climber
South Pasadena, CA
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Apr 17, 2016 - 07:23pm PT
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Snow hazed, your partner almost makes it look casual right there!
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snowhazed
Trad climber
Oaksterdam, CA
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Apr 17, 2016 - 07:49pm PT
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Ha Nut- usually picture tilt makes it steeper, but somehow I opted for the opposite
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Apr 17, 2016 - 09:09pm PT
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Yes, it's cool to see pictures of this route!
I only have pictures of my partner ...
We did it swinging leads, on-sight, no falls in 1985.
Word on the street had it at 11d.
I think the lower rating was of help psychologically speaking.
Or maybe it was the company.
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dcaunt
Trad climber
Chico, CA
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Apr 18, 2016 - 01:12pm PT
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Ah yes, Shelly. Roy, what ever happened to her? Remember climbing with you two during an ascent of the 3rd pillar, way back.
Her and I did Hemispheres on Fairview and that was fun, not too hard just plain fun. Maybe we need a Shelly Presson appreciation thread to bring out all those good photos of her.
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BruceHildenbrand
Social climber
Mountain View/Boulder
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Apr 18, 2016 - 01:22pm PT
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Check out this photo from upthread of the dihedral. Is that a rusted Leeper hanger out right?
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Apr 18, 2016 - 01:30pm PT
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Yes, it is a rusted Leeper hanger. Good eye!
.........................................................................
Dave, she lives in Boulder, married. Now Shelley Dunbar. Very successful, which comes as no surprise.
Actually, I think she took one short fall on Heart of Stone, but not on the crux. She may also have been up it before.
I was following her on that crux dihedral and there was absolutely no way I was going to let myself fall. I was climbing well, so that wasn't going to be an issue.
But she was pissed, in a jovial way, that I cruised it! Ha ha. Good times.
Thanks for the photographs from Hemispheres. That route is such a blast!
I also climbed Scavenger with Shelley.
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snowhazed
Trad climber
Oaksterdam, CA
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Apr 18, 2016 - 08:35pm PT
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I ended up clipping that leeper after the fact to keep the rope out of the crack as I brought up my partner- it was sweet.
I heard that the third pitch used to be a moderate chimney until the right side of it fell off?? Any of you old school hardmen climb it before that happened? As it stands now, that pitch is one of the more physical and sustained pitches on the route
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Lynne Leichtfuss
Sport climber
moving thru
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Apr 19, 2016 - 09:23am PT
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Like this Thread.
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Jon Clark
climber
philadelphia
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Apr 19, 2016 - 10:49am PT
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Where is the undercling traverse shown in pic number four in snowhazed's 5 pic post? Is it at the end of tips/finger corner or somewhere else?
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