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tarallo
Trad climber
italy
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Topic Author's Original Post - Oct 5, 2010 - 10:54am PT
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last week i climbed this amazing route in one of the most beautifull place in tuolomne.
can you give me some info about the route: first ascensionists,when it was climbed and so on...on the reid book i can't find this info..
thanks
here a qick t.r.
we started the climbing at almost noon a little bit late....we topped out in the dark and i left my head lamp in the haul bag... a lesson i don't forget the next time....
the climbing is fantastic the slab pitches amazing, but the grades a little bit tight and the topo not so accurate..
the most scary pitch is the third a crack pitch the sound of the flake was not so good...anyway with good foot holds.i was with paolo my climbing teacher and guru aka "lo zio" "the uncle" he is a bad ass alpine climber and to other friends of us were on lucky streaks
here some photos
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philo
Trad climber
Somewhere halfway over the rainbow
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That's all I got.
It did seem appropriate though.
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Tony Bird
climber
Northridge, CA
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a noble route nobly named. saving it for my next life, when i might do a 5.12. could you describe the difficulties?
my old reid & falkenstein guide says: vern clevenger, claude fiddler, dave lomba, 8/80.
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tarallo
Trad climber
italy
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 6, 2010 - 05:44pm PT
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the qick trip report i'll post some more photos
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PeteC
climber
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My funny Heart of Stone story is after following Jim B. up it earlier this summer, we mentioned to Claude Fiddler that while the anchor bolts had been replaced, the crux bolt on the 11c roof pitch was still original. "I made that bold hanger in high school shop class!" he exclaimed....
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the kid
Trad climber
fayetteville, wv
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i love that route! I did it with the Mr. Toads Wild ride start in 1985 with M. Lechinski and got the on sight of both routes!
Such a memorable day!
love the meadows~
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snowhazed
Trad climber
Oaksterdam, CA
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Mar 29, 2013 - 11:52pm PT
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Ramping up my psych for the coming season- this route is definitely on my to do list.
Stories please!! Pics please!!
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snowhazed
Trad climber
Oaksterdam, CA
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Sep 21, 2013 - 03:06pm PT
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bump for some history, some pics, some love
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David Wilson
climber
CA
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Sep 21, 2013 - 08:04pm PT
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Bump - this has been on my list for a while as well. Any stories out there?
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m_jones
Trad climber
Carson City, NV
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Sep 21, 2013 - 08:38pm PT
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Did both heart of stone and toads in 81 0r 82. Great routes. Favorite place to climb.
I think I beat you to those onsights Kid!
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cultureshock
Trad climber
Mountain View
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Bump. How are the bolts on this thing?
ASCA site says:
Heart Of Stone - Replaced most bolts - Mike Shafer, Benjamin Kumli, Trevor and others from YMS and Tuolumne SAR.
 Luke
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RP3
Big Wall climber
Sonora
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All in great shape.
Climbed it last summer as part of a team of six including Jesse McGahey, Ben Doyle, Eric Pearlman, and the legendary Grasshopper. One of the most fun days of my summer. Below are a few highlight pics:
Of course I heard that Fairview Dome was CLOSED and all of it's employees furloughed.
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Salamanizer
Trad climber
The land of Fruits & Nuts!
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I remember the route being pretty full value. I broke a hold at the start of the short .10d lieback section on the second pitch. It's like 10/12ft above the last bolt which is also 8 to 10ft to the right. I placed a #1 peanut in a shallow slot. Half sticking out of the rock it was only psychological pro at best. Committed to the move, pulled a small flake off and fell backward. That POS placement actually caught me and saved me short of a messy ride. Love them things those peenuts.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Apr 16, 2014 - 02:06am PT
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Bump.
Why doesn't this climb get more press??
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snowhazed
Trad climber
Oaksterdam, CA
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gonna try it in a few days- trying hard not to be intimidated by runout 10- slab!
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micronut
Trad climber
Fresno/Clovis, ca
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Go set it Snowhazed! Have fun and be bold!
Scott
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RP3
Big Wall climber
Twain Harte
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The runouts are not too bad Snowhazard. Enjoy!
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snowhazed
Trad climber
Oaksterdam, CA
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ummmmmmmm wow.
my whole world just got bigger.
made it to the top of P6 before getting hit with a t-storm.
That route to there is hard, in your face, and utterly brilliant.
mind is still blown, and my feet kinda hurt!
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