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tarallo
Trad climber
italy
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Topic Author's Original Post - Oct 5, 2010 - 10:54am PT
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last week i climbed this amazing route in one of the most beautifull place in tuolomne.
can you give me some info about the route: first ascensionists,when it was climbed and so on...on the reid book i can't find this info..
thanks
here a qick t.r.
we started the climbing at almost noon a little bit late....we topped out in the dark and i left my head lamp in the haul bag... a lesson i don't forget the next time....
the climbing is fantastic the slab pitches amazing, but the grades a little bit tight and the topo not so accurate..
the most scary pitch is the third a crack pitch the sound of the flake was not so good...anyway with good foot holds.i was with paolo my climbing teacher and guru aka "lo zio" "the uncle" he is a bad ass alpine climber and to other friends of us were on lucky streaks
here some photos
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philo
Trad climber
Somewhere halfway over the rainbow
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That's all I got.
It did seem appropriate though.
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Tony Bird
climber
Northridge, CA
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a noble route nobly named. saving it for my next life, when i might do a 5.12. could you describe the difficulties?
my old reid & falkenstein guide says: vern clevenger, claude fiddler, dave lomba, 8/80.
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tarallo
Trad climber
italy
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 6, 2010 - 05:44pm PT
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the qick trip report i'll post some more photos
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PeteC
climber
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My funny Heart of Stone story is after following Jim B. up it earlier this summer, we mentioned to Claude Fiddler that while the anchor bolts had been replaced, the crux bolt on the 11c roof pitch was still original. "I made that bold hanger in high school shop class!" he exclaimed....
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the kid
Trad climber
fayetteville, wv
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i love that route! I did it with the Mr. Toads Wild ride start in 1985 with M. Lechinski and got the on sight of both routes!
Such a memorable day!
love the meadows~
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snowhazed
Trad climber
Oaksterdam, CA
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Mar 29, 2013 - 11:52pm PT
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Ramping up my psych for the coming season- this route is definitely on my to do list.
Stories please!! Pics please!!
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snowhazed
Trad climber
Oaksterdam, CA
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Sep 21, 2013 - 03:06pm PT
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bump for some history, some pics, some love
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David Wilson
climber
CA
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Sep 21, 2013 - 08:04pm PT
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Bump - this has been on my list for a while as well. Any stories out there?
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m_jones
Trad climber
Carson City, NV
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Sep 21, 2013 - 08:38pm PT
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Did both heart of stone and toads in 81 0r 82. Great routes. Favorite place to climb.
I think I beat you to those onsights Kid!
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cultureshock
Trad climber
Mountain View
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Bump. How are the bolts on this thing?
ASCA site says:
Heart Of Stone - Replaced most bolts - Mike Shafer, Benjamin Kumli, Trevor and others from YMS and Tuolumne SAR.
 Luke
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RP3
Big Wall climber
Sonora
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All in great shape.
Climbed it last summer as part of a team of six including Jesse McGahey, Ben Doyle, Eric Pearlman, and the legendary Grasshopper. One of the most fun days of my summer. Below are a few highlight pics:
Of course I heard that Fairview Dome was CLOSED and all of it's employees furloughed.
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Salamanizer
Trad climber
The land of Fruits & Nuts!
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I remember the route being pretty full value. I broke a hold at the start of the short .10d lieback section on the second pitch. It's like 10/12ft above the last bolt which is also 8 to 10ft to the right. I placed a #1 peanut in a shallow slot. Half sticking out of the rock it was only psychological pro at best. Committed to the move, pulled a small flake off and fell backward. That POS placement actually caught me and saved me short of a messy ride. Love them things those peenuts.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Apr 16, 2014 - 02:06am PT
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Bump.
Why doesn't this climb get more press??
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snowhazed
Trad climber
Oaksterdam, CA
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gonna try it in a few days- trying hard not to be intimidated by runout 10- slab!
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micronut
Trad climber
Fresno/Clovis, ca
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Go set it Snowhazed! Have fun and be bold!
Scott
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RP3
Big Wall climber
Twain Harte
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The runouts are not too bad Snowhazard. Enjoy!
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snowhazed
Trad climber
Oaksterdam, CA
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ummmmmmmm wow.
my whole world just got bigger.
made it to the top of P6 before getting hit with a t-storm.
That route to there is hard, in your face, and utterly brilliant.
mind is still blown, and my feet kinda hurt!
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NutAgain!
Trad climber
South Pasadena, CA
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Probably not many bumps because it's an elite few who can have a climb like this on their radar :) I won't ever be in that list, but it's nice to see pics of it!
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Kalimon
Social climber
Ridgway, CO
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Nice route photos tarallo and RP3 . . . proud ascent.
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bob
climber
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Go get it Snowhazed! That route is one of the best. Twice last summer.
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pvalchev
Social climber
Truckee, CA
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Aug 17, 2014 - 10:28pm PT
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Some guys were on it today! Anyone here? Looks like an amazing route.
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
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Aug 17, 2014 - 11:46pm PT
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Nice job, Snow!!!
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HighDesertDJ
Trad climber
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Aug 18, 2014 - 04:08am PT
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Nice job Snow. Give us the blow by blow!
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snowhazed
Trad climber
Oaksterdam, CA
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Yesterday I made a second attempt, redpointed under the corner, figured out the crux, and onsighted the rest except for the exit mantel, and topped out.
The climbing to the top of the corner is already hard and bold.....
The pitches after the corner are seriously runout, like they make the pitches under the corner seem overbolted, like 30-40 foot ledge fall potentials, like 50 feet out off your anchor in a sea of friction and knobs. Brilliant movement on perfect rock, Vern Clevenger, Claude Fiddler- quite the route you put up from the ground- yowza
I'm in a daze, the best kind
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Snow-dazed. Lol. Nice job dude I've been wanting to try this climb forever, looks so sick!!
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snowhazed
Trad climber
Oaksterdam, CA
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Apr 16, 2016 - 09:16pm PT
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This thread needs some pics
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Flip Flop
climber
Earth Planet, Universe
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Apr 16, 2016 - 09:24pm PT
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Nice
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tuolumne_tradster
Trad climber
Leading Edge of North American Plate
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Apr 17, 2016 - 05:01pm PT
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HoS bump...luv the shots in the dihedrals and out on the knobs
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NutAgain!
Trad climber
South Pasadena, CA
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Apr 17, 2016 - 07:23pm PT
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Snow hazed, your partner almost makes it look casual right there!
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snowhazed
Trad climber
Oaksterdam, CA
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Apr 17, 2016 - 07:49pm PT
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Ha Nut- usually picture tilt makes it steeper, but somehow I opted for the opposite
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Apr 17, 2016 - 09:09pm PT
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Yes, it's cool to see pictures of this route!
I only have pictures of my partner ...
We did it swinging leads, on-sight, no falls in 1985.
Word on the street had it at 11d.
I think the lower rating was of help psychologically speaking.
Or maybe it was the company.
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dcaunt
Trad climber
Chico, CA
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Apr 18, 2016 - 01:12pm PT
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Ah yes, Shelly. Roy, what ever happened to her? Remember climbing with you two during an ascent of the 3rd pillar, way back.
Her and I did Hemispheres on Fairview and that was fun, not too hard just plain fun. Maybe we need a Shelly Presson appreciation thread to bring out all those good photos of her.
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BruceHildenbrand
Social climber
Mountain View/Boulder
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Apr 18, 2016 - 01:22pm PT
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Check out this photo from upthread of the dihedral. Is that a rusted Leeper hanger out right?
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Apr 18, 2016 - 01:30pm PT
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Yes, it is a rusted Leeper hanger. Good eye!
.........................................................................
Dave, she lives in Boulder, married. Now Shelley Dunbar. Very successful, which comes as no surprise.
Actually, I think she took one short fall on Heart of Stone, but not on the crux. She may also have been up it before.
I was following her on that crux dihedral and there was absolutely no way I was going to let myself fall. I was climbing well, so that wasn't going to be an issue.
But she was pissed, in a jovial way, that I cruised it! Ha ha. Good times.
Thanks for the photographs from Hemispheres. That route is such a blast!
I also climbed Scavenger with Shelley.
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snowhazed
Trad climber
Oaksterdam, CA
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Apr 18, 2016 - 08:35pm PT
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I ended up clipping that leeper after the fact to keep the rope out of the crack as I brought up my partner- it was sweet.
I heard that the third pitch used to be a moderate chimney until the right side of it fell off?? Any of you old school hardmen climb it before that happened? As it stands now, that pitch is one of the more physical and sustained pitches on the route
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Lynne Leichtfuss
Sport climber
moving thru
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Apr 19, 2016 - 09:23am PT
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Like this Thread.
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Jon Clark
climber
philadelphia
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Apr 19, 2016 - 10:49am PT
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Where is the undercling traverse shown in pic number four in snowhazed's 5 pic post? Is it at the end of tips/finger corner or somewhere else?
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FTOR
Sport climber
CA
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Apr 19, 2016 - 01:44pm PT
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done it both ways, with and without the big flake that fell off. definitely a much harder pitch without. decaunt and i rerouted a couple of pitches on scavenger that also climbed into that flake.
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