60 Bolts drilled on Compressor Route in Patagonia

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Messages 41 - 60 of total 123 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
philo

Trad climber
Somewhere halfway over the rainbow
May 31, 2010 - 11:40am PT
Yeah Lama popped the top on a steaming can of Red Bull-sh#t.
the kid

Trad climber
fayetteville, wv
Jun 1, 2010 - 09:57am PT
again another lame ass excuse to get money and pr for a rock climb..
bolts bolts bolts, this is the bad side of non climbing corporate sponsorship of expeditions..
David should change his name to David LAME...
ks
the kid

Trad climber
fayetteville, wv
Jun 1, 2010 - 09:59am PT
and another point..
for the record:
When Coz and I gave the muir wall a GROUND UP, onsight, no rap bolting attempt, we wanted to preserve the AID climb, we added no bolts to the line and only added bolts to the variations and all belays..
we wanted other AID climbers to still get the adventure of the route and not to take anything away from the FA...

ks
philo

Trad climber
Somewhere halfway over the rainbow
Jun 1, 2010 - 10:18am PT
Kid, You and Coz got class.


David LAME. Ha ha ha ha.
jack herer

climber
Veneta, Oregon
Jun 1, 2010 - 11:15am PT
Who the f*#k is David Llama?
Edge

Trad climber
New Durham, NH
Jun 1, 2010 - 11:23am PT
Who the f*#k is David Llama?

Given his love of bolts, I would say that he is "Someone who carries his courage in his alpaca."

bwancy1

Trad climber
Here
Jun 1, 2010 - 11:39am PT
This is interesting to see so many up in arms about a route that 99% of the commenters here have never laid eyes on.

This retrobolting crap goes on every day at local crags (even - gasp- yosemite). I have watched many of you accepting and enabling this mentality with comments like "just leave the bolts..you'll only damage the rock", etc. Tacitly approving the addition of convenience belays, rap stations, added bolts, excessive cleaning, pruning, etc.

Why is this behavior ok in your own lives, but is so abhorrent on Compressor? Are your own modest routes and values less important?
alpinist-erik

Mountain climber
Jackson, WY
Jun 1, 2010 - 01:57pm PT
Hi Tacofolk. We've posted a story on Alpinist.com:

http://www.alpinist.com/doc/web10s/newswire-david-lama-compressor-bolts

Erik Lambert
Online Editor, Alpinist.com
Port

Trad climber
San Diego
Jun 1, 2010 - 02:36pm PT
Thanks Erik, that was a great read. Very informative.

This retrobolting crap goes on every day at local crags (even - gasp- yosemite). I have watched many of you accepting and enabling this mentality over with comments like "just leave the bolts..you'll only damage the rock", etc. Tacitly approving the addition of convenience belays, rap stations, added bolts, excessive cleaning, pruning, etc.

My understanding is that these bolts were added for filming purposes, which makes the situation even worse in my mind. What kind of standard does this leave? Are you saying its ok for a film crew to place and remove 60 bolts every time they go out and film a big wall?


From Alpinist.


In 1971, a year after Maestri's ascent, videographer Leo Dickinson climbed and filmed on the Compressor Route. Dickinson left only a few pieces of clean protection at his highpoint (the headwall ice towers) and no additional fixed gear. While he and the rest of the team did not reach the summit, his reaction to the bolts on the Compressor Route compelled him to travel to Italy to interview Maestri. The result was a film entitled Cerro Torre—The Rape of a Mountain. In a recent email to Alpinist, he wrote: "In my view all bolts should be stripped from Cerro Torre and it declared a bolt free zone by the National Park. The rock of Cerro Torre and Fitzroy is eminently suitable for gear [that] can be removed.


So if Leo Dickinson can film on Cerro Torre in 1971 without placing bolts, why cant REDBULL?
bwancy1

Trad climber
Here
Jun 1, 2010 - 04:22pm PT
My understanding is that these bolts were added for filming purposes, which makes the situation even worse in my mind. What kind of standard does this leave? Are you saying its ok for a film crew to place and remove 60 bolts every time they go out and film a big wall?

No!

I am saying that it is not ok for a film crew to do it, and it is not ok for anyone else to do it either. A lot of folks here seem to be enraged about defiling Compressor, but have no problem with similar behavior on less famous routes...routes that they may actually have some experience with.

And just to make a comment on us climber's sense of entitlement: You state that the situation is "even worse" since it is associated with a film crew's actions. Why are photography enthusiast's impacts unacceptable, while climbers have the right to bolt anything we wish?

Ultimately I think maybe we are saying the same thing----enough with adding bolts to existing routes!
tomtom

Social climber
Seattle, Wa
Jun 1, 2010 - 04:32pm PT
How many bolts do folks like Caldwell or the Huber brothers add to routes they are trying to free?

Or leave roped draped for long periods of time?
brotherbbock

Trad climber
Alta Loma, CA
Jun 1, 2010 - 05:22pm PT
F*#k Redbull!!!

You wont see me drinking that sh#t, especially after this travesty of filming shenanigans that went down.

the Fet

climber
Tu-Tok-A-Nu-La
Jun 1, 2010 - 06:01pm PT
Another great example of people outraged because they don't understand the real motivation behind minimizing bolts.

People who devote their lives to climbing, write about it, make a living from it, should understand why adding bolts is wrong. But most don't. They just jump on the bolts are evil bandwagon without really understanding the issue.

I'm going to rap off the anchor of one of the most important rock climbs in the world. Then I'll drill 10 bolts in the middle of no where that no one will ever see first hand, maybe glue a hood ornament on while I'm at it. I'll take a picture and post it here. Then people can get all righteous and outraged, but since no one else will never know where they are, they will remain there forever, like a splinter in some people's minds. A travesty! LOL!!
Port

Trad climber
San Diego
Jun 1, 2010 - 06:14pm PT
Why are photography enthusiast's impacts unacceptable, while climbers have the right to bolt anything we wish?

First, climbers DONT have a right to do anything we wish, in my opinion.

Second, because those photos are being used for promotional purposes in order to sell more energy drinks. You might have a point if it were Ansel Adams up there....but its Red Bull. These photos are being used for marketing their beverage. lame.
philo

Trad climber
Somewhere halfway over the rainbow
Jun 1, 2010 - 10:45pm PT
Bwancy1, apparently you don't grasp the essential significance of Cerro Torre in the minds of many including those who will never go.
bwancy1

Trad climber
Here
Jun 2, 2010 - 12:59am PT
First, climbers DONT have a right to do anything we wish, in my opinion.

Yes, that was my point.

Bwancy1, apparently you don't grasp the essential significance of Cerro Torre in the minds of many including those who will never go.


I get it. I just wish people would share that same passion and respect with the climbs in their (and my) lives. Act locally, you know?
GDavis

Social climber
SOL CAL
Jun 2, 2010 - 01:05am PT
Well, weren't the original bolts put in with a gas powered compressor?


Sounds like a good change of style at least : /

and props to bridwell, donini, garibrotti et al for giving that mountain a great history and giving us wanks a slew of very inspiring lines on those peaks.
sweetcheeks

climber
Pacific Palisades, CA
Jun 2, 2010 - 02:18am PT
More abuse heaped on a line that should have yielded such a work of art.
the kid

Trad climber
fayetteville, wv
Jun 2, 2010 - 09:50am PT
bwancy,
not all of us tacosheads are for retro bolting..
as one who has done hundreds of f.a's, ground up, trad, rap bolted etc i do not condone adding bolts to existing lines. it does not matter that 99%mof us have never been to cerro torre, simple fact is that was a lame ass move on the team and film crews part.

as one who was ticketed for using a power drill in the wilderness of el cap, i understand the implications of actions gone bad..
as one who has had a few of my "trad" routes retro bolted without my permission (cookie monster) i am not happy when someone else brings a climb DOWN to their level instead of rising up to the challenge.
seems like a film team on a big wall with lots of cracks could find a better way to secure their shot.

i live at the new river gorge where during the sport bolting heyday, many a trad line were retro bolted for "convenience" and now a lot of climbers want those trad lines back. i don't want to see massive chopping rear it's head, but would prefer that people think before they drill a line climbed on gear..

kurt
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Jun 2, 2010 - 09:56am PT
Lambert's link to Rolo's Alpinist article is a must read for any alpinist or aspiring alpinist.
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