60 Bolts drilled on Compressor Route in Patagonia

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Peter Haan

Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
May 29, 2010 - 09:12am PT
Here is Rolando's article translated by Babelfish; it is a little crude but does the job I guess. I tweaked it up some as the translation is purely automatic.

60 parabolts towards the Compressor Route of Cerro Torre

At the request of some readers, Rolando Garibotti extends and details to the column appeared in the last number of Unevenness. In her it demands explanations by parabolts placed, that remain, and the cord fixes installed during months for a project of shooting and liberation.

By digital Writing digital@desnivel.es Updated 21.05.201023:40



The route of the Compressor crosses the south-east spur, in center of the image. Photo: ®Rolando Garibotti.

To start up a project of clean scaling whose shooting demands great means and alteration of the route supposes, as the Argentinean Rolando Garibotti explains, a very serious ethical dilemma. This one is its valuation:

The great news in Patagonia this past season was not related to an ascent, but to the announcement of a project. Little it was materialized of as much publicity and that little he was negative. Although David Lama did not manage to at least release to a new meter of the route of the Compressor in the south-east spur of the Hill Tower, its equipment of shooting made up of several cameras and Austrian guides of mountain engaged by Red Bull placed about 700 meters of fixed cords throughout the route and near 60 parabolts.

The cords were retired several months later by Argentine guides, who could not with all and had to leave a full bed roll of them in rimaya. A smaller detail in comparison with parabolts.

Parabolts were placed in first half of the route--- between rimaya and the passage--- where not even Maestri in 1970 had perforated the rock in spite of being loaded up with his heavy compressor. In that section of the route there is an infinity of options to place removable protection, since the fissures abound everywhere. In the hundreds of repetitions that the route has had nobody has had to add nothing in that section. Without a doubt he is peculiar that is necessity to add parabolts to a route that counts already with more than 450 nails of pressure.

In relation to the actions of this equipment of Red Bull an ethical dilemma appears on the re-equipment of classic or historical routes.

I would like to know what would happen if this summer I visited Austria and added dozens of parabolts in "Locker vom Hocker" of Gullich and Albert or in some route of the famous Mathias Rebisch, or of Albert Precht, et cetera. And since the own Reinhold Messner helped to promote this attempt of David Lama (to see here) perhaps would be appropriate that added dozens of parabolts to the Spur of Means (Mittelpfeiler) in the Sasso della Croce (Heiligkreuzkopfel), in its historical one via. He is peculiar that is he, author in years 70 of the well-known article "The Murder of the Impossible"; against the indiscriminate use of bolts, that help to promote the upsetting of Red Bull and Lama.

To add parabolts to an existing route not only is in opposition to one of the good well-known ethical norms not written of the mountain climbing and the scaling, but also on Best Practice in Mountain Sports is written in the famous Tyrol Declaration result of a meeting of mountain climbers, climbers, clubs and bunds in Innsbruck in 2002. In article 8, point 1, is read: "This means that the climbers would not have to increase the number of fixed insurances in a preexisting route";. This declaration recently has been updated with the denominated Declaration of Ethics in the Mountain that the Union the International of Associations of Alpinismo (UIAA) the past made 11 public of December on the occasion of the Day the International of the Mountain. In his article 1 (individual responsibility) one takes shelter: "… To place fixed anchorages in new or old routes cannot automatically be assumed like acceptable". In article 4 (in foreign countries): "… We must respect the ethics and local style of scaling and not drill nor place fixed anchorages in places where there is a traditional ethics in his against or where ” is not an established ethics. In article 8 (style): "… We always must deal with not leaving any sign in a wall and the mountain.
"

In relation to the fixed cords it is worth the trouble to reflect envelope what reaction would have if we throughout left to fixed cords a summer in "Pesce" of the Marmolada, or in "Philipp Flamm" of the Civetta, or in "American Direct " on the west face of the Dru, or any other concurred classic route of the Alps. To anybody who likes to climb under fixed ropes, less even in a route that from the Eighties becomes in alpine style.

In 1985 Swiss Fulvio Mariani filmed in the Cerro Torre one of the best mountain films never done, "Summit";, a documentary of the solitary ascent of Pedrini Frame. In that occasion not only they did not place any parabolt, but they used only three fixed cords. Years later, in 1990, the German Werner Herzog I also film "Schrei aus Stein"; (Scream of Stone) in the Cerro Torre, and even that time there was no necessity to add parabolts to the route of Maestri. Since then, as it proves the behavior of Licks and the people of Red Bull, it seems to have happened an important regression.
Lama and Red Bull would have to explain how they justify as much impact to document an attempt of ascent that It licks same promoted saying that it would be in alpine style, clean, light, with “ to fair play ”, et cetera.

By Rolando Garibotti

Argentine mountain climber, mountain guide in the USA, is habitual and a great student of the history of the scaling in Patagonia besides a recognized analyst with numerous publications like, for example, "Cerro Torre", its history and its routes" in Desnivel # 210. Among others activities, in 2005, along with Ermanno Salvaterra and Alessandro Beltrami drew up "the coffer of winds" in Cerro Torre, whereas in 2008 the traverse of the Tower along with Colin Haley realised the first ascent. In Desnivel # 287 (May 2010) it published a chronicle of most important happened in Patagonia the past season.
Slice

Boulder climber
Valley
May 29, 2010 - 09:44am PT
Sure would like to read DR's opinion on this. Be an interesting read to say the least.
philo

Trad climber
Somewhere halfway over the rainbow
May 29, 2010 - 09:52am PT
I can still remember when I was an invincible 19 year old to whom the rules did not apply.



Hopefully he will mature into his talents.
Scared Silly

Trad climber
UT
May 29, 2010 - 12:12pm PT
Interesting history of Red Bull and Dietrich Mateschitz

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Red_Bull_GmbH

Port

Trad climber
San Diego
May 29, 2010 - 01:14pm PT
Hey Philo,

I copied and pasted the David Lama post from Red Bull.com. I have nothing to do with this travesty at all, and I think it should be chopped.
philo

Trad climber
Somewhere halfway over the rainbow
May 29, 2010 - 02:57pm PT
Whew! Thanx for letting me know that Port. Consider the VooDoo doll project cancelled.
Toker Villain

Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
May 29, 2010 - 03:13pm PT
So let me get this straight, some team goes to Patagonia making big noises, they add 60 bolts to a WAY overbolted route mostly for camera positions without a compressor, they fix light years of rope, they eventually see that all the rope and a bunch of garbage that wasn't theirs is removed, and they pledge to return to remove the remaining bolts?

And that makes you all get your panties in a twist???


Well!
By comparison I can only imagine how you all must be furiously writing letters to your elected officials to see that something is done to stop the Gulf oil spill and see that it never happens again!

Philo must be making lots of BP voodoo dolls.


After all, if we were to cut back on fossil fuel consumption then I guess maybe WE might not get to fly to Patagonia and show how environmentally correct we are, huh?

Just saying,..
philo

Trad climber
Somewhere halfway over the rainbow
May 29, 2010 - 03:33pm PT
Lots and lots of dolls.
Toker Villain

Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
May 29, 2010 - 03:43pm PT
Hope you're not using petroleum products to do the voodoo that you do so well.
;)
enjoimx

Trad climber
SLO Cal
May 29, 2010 - 04:11pm PT
Who's going to "Chop the line" ? Not an easy proposition.
QITNL

climber
May 29, 2010 - 04:33pm PT
It's pretty obvious that there is only one man for the job.

Locker caught him training for this mission on Half Dome:


credit: Locker

He's been working on some of the logistics with his friend:


credit: crag hag
Iron Mtn.

Trad climber
Corona, Ca.
May 29, 2010 - 06:42pm PT
I've about had enough of all this disrepect for Cerro Torre. I think they should ban climbing it for a couple of years (as with Everest) to teach future @ssh*les a lesson.

*just read that this Lama character is from Tyrol, perhaps Messner could go kick his ass on behalf of the rest of us.....
Port

Trad climber
San Diego
May 29, 2010 - 07:40pm PT
I would like to know what would happen if this summer I visited Austria and added dozens of parabolts in "Locker vom Hocker" of Gullich and Albert or in some route of the famous Mathias Rebisch, or of Albert Precht, et cetera. And since the own Reinhold Messner helped to promote this attempt of David Lama (to see here) perhaps would be appropriate that added dozens of parabolts to the Spur of Means (Mittelpfeiler) in the Sasso della Croce (Heiligkreuzkopfel), in its historical one via. He is peculiar that is he, author in years 70 of the well-known article "The Murder of the Impossible"; against the indiscriminate use of bolts, that help to promote the upsetting of Red Bull and Lama.

Its a crappy translation but it sounds like Messner had some kind of funding/promotion role in this whole thing.
Pate

Trad climber
May 29, 2010 - 07:51pm PT
What the hell were they thinking????


They shoulda put in 63 bolts.
Iron Mtn.

Trad climber
Corona, Ca.
May 31, 2010 - 12:58am PT
I have a real hard time believing Messner would okay 60 bolts on Cerro Torre, especially since he claims to have never placed a bolt ever and wrote Murder of the Impossible about the Compressor Route....
Largo

Sport climber
The Big Wide Open Face
May 31, 2010 - 03:11am PT
450 original bolts and another 60 new ones pushes the total to over 500. That, ladies and gentlemen, is way too many for any rock climb.

JL
Toker Villain

Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
May 31, 2010 - 10:39am PT
I thought it was supposed to be a via ferrata.
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
May 31, 2010 - 10:47am PT
Lama has a history of grandstanding. There is NO excuse for adding bolts to the World's most difficult via ferrata, deleting some is another matter. When we did the first ascent of neighboring Torre Egger in 1976 we put in a total of 4 hand drilled bolts. Placing new bolts in the course of trying to "increase" difficulty is absurd. The World's most beautiful mountain deserves more respect, especially from young "supposed" hot shots.
philo

Trad climber
Somewhere halfway over the rainbow
May 31, 2010 - 11:40am PT
Yeah Lama popped the top on a steaming can of Red Bull-sh#t.
the kid

Trad climber
fayetteville, wv
Jun 1, 2010 - 09:57am PT
again another lame ass excuse to get money and pr for a rock climb..
bolts bolts bolts, this is the bad side of non climbing corporate sponsorship of expeditions..
David should change his name to David LAME...
ks
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