60 Bolts drilled on Compressor Route in Patagonia

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Messages 21 - 40 of total 113 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
philo

Trad climber
Somewhere halfway over the rainbow
May 29, 2010 - 09:52am PT
I can still remember when I was an invincible 19 year old to whom the rules did not apply.



Hopefully he will mature into his talents.
Scared Silly

Trad climber
UT
May 29, 2010 - 12:12pm PT
Interesting history of Red Bull and Dietrich Mateschitz

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Red_Bull_GmbH

Port

Trad climber
San Diego
May 29, 2010 - 01:14pm PT
Hey Philo,

I copied and pasted the David Lama post from Red Bull.com. I have nothing to do with this travesty at all, and I think it should be chopped.
philo

Trad climber
Somewhere halfway over the rainbow
May 29, 2010 - 02:57pm PT
Whew! Thanx for letting me know that Port. Consider the VooDoo doll project cancelled.
Toker Villain

Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
May 29, 2010 - 03:13pm PT
So let me get this straight, some team goes to Patagonia making big noises, they add 60 bolts to a WAY overbolted route mostly for camera positions without a compressor, they fix light years of rope, they eventually see that all the rope and a bunch of garbage that wasn't theirs is removed, and they pledge to return to remove the remaining bolts?

And that makes you all get your panties in a twist???


Well!
By comparison I can only imagine how you all must be furiously writing letters to your elected officials to see that something is done to stop the Gulf oil spill and see that it never happens again!

Philo must be making lots of BP voodoo dolls.


After all, if we were to cut back on fossil fuel consumption then I guess maybe WE might not get to fly to Patagonia and show how environmentally correct we are, huh?

Just saying,..
philo

Trad climber
Somewhere halfway over the rainbow
May 29, 2010 - 03:33pm PT
Lots and lots of dolls.
Toker Villain

Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
May 29, 2010 - 03:43pm PT
Hope you're not using petroleum products to do the voodoo that you do so well.
;)
enjoimx

Trad climber
SLO Cal
May 29, 2010 - 04:11pm PT
Who's going to "Chop the line" ? Not an easy proposition.
Iron Mtn.

Trad climber
Corona, Ca.
May 29, 2010 - 06:42pm PT
I've about had enough of all this disrepect for Cerro Torre. I think they should ban climbing it for a couple of years (as with Everest) to teach future @ssh*les a lesson.

*just read that this Lama character is from Tyrol, perhaps Messner could go kick his ass on behalf of the rest of us.....
Port

Trad climber
San Diego
May 29, 2010 - 07:40pm PT
I would like to know what would happen if this summer I visited Austria and added dozens of parabolts in "Locker vom Hocker" of Gullich and Albert or in some route of the famous Mathias Rebisch, or of Albert Precht, et cetera. And since the own Reinhold Messner helped to promote this attempt of David Lama (to see here) perhaps would be appropriate that added dozens of parabolts to the Spur of Means (Mittelpfeiler) in the Sasso della Croce (Heiligkreuzkopfel), in its historical one via. He is peculiar that is he, author in years 70 of the well-known article "The Murder of the Impossible"; against the indiscriminate use of bolts, that help to promote the upsetting of Red Bull and Lama.

Its a crappy translation but it sounds like Messner had some kind of funding/promotion role in this whole thing.
Iron Mtn.

Trad climber
Corona, Ca.
May 31, 2010 - 12:58am PT
I have a real hard time believing Messner would okay 60 bolts on Cerro Torre, especially since he claims to have never placed a bolt ever and wrote Murder of the Impossible about the Compressor Route....
Largo

Sport climber
The Big Wide Open Face
May 31, 2010 - 03:11am PT
450 original bolts and another 60 new ones pushes the total to over 500. That, ladies and gentlemen, is way too many for any rock climb.

JL
Toker Villain

Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
May 31, 2010 - 10:39am PT
I thought it was supposed to be a via ferrata.
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
May 31, 2010 - 10:47am PT
Lama has a history of grandstanding. There is NO excuse for adding bolts to the World's most difficult via ferrata, deleting some is another matter. When we did the first ascent of neighboring Torre Egger in 1976 we put in a total of 4 hand drilled bolts. Placing new bolts in the course of trying to "increase" difficulty is absurd. The World's most beautiful mountain deserves more respect, especially from young "supposed" hot shots.
philo

Trad climber
Somewhere halfway over the rainbow
May 31, 2010 - 11:40am PT
Yeah Lama popped the top on a steaming can of Red Bull-sh#t.
the kid

Trad climber
fayetteville, wv
Jun 1, 2010 - 09:57am PT
again another lame ass excuse to get money and pr for a rock climb..
bolts bolts bolts, this is the bad side of non climbing corporate sponsorship of expeditions..
David should change his name to David LAME...
ks
the kid

Trad climber
fayetteville, wv
Jun 1, 2010 - 09:59am PT
and another point..
for the record:
When Coz and I gave the muir wall a GROUND UP, onsight, no rap bolting attempt, we wanted to preserve the AID climb, we added no bolts to the line and only added bolts to the variations and all belays..
we wanted other AID climbers to still get the adventure of the route and not to take anything away from the FA...

ks
philo

Trad climber
Somewhere halfway over the rainbow
Jun 1, 2010 - 10:18am PT
Kid, You and Coz got class.


David LAME. Ha ha ha ha.
jack herer

climber
Veneta, Oregon
Jun 1, 2010 - 11:15am PT
Who the f*#k is David Llama?
Edge

Trad climber
New Durham, NH
Jun 1, 2010 - 11:23am PT
Who the f*#k is David Llama?

Given his love of bolts, I would say that he is "Someone who carries his courage in his alpaca."

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