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Maysho
climber
Soda Springs, CA
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Feb 14, 2011 - 12:24am PT
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Did a new route with Urmas Franosch, The Devil Made Me Do It, V 5.10 A3+. Way over on the right side of the main face. Very good quality, but hiking the entire base, I did see a lot of flaky rock and incipient cracks. The better looking rock IMHO was on the far right, the South Arete.
Peter
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ec
climber
ca
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Feb 14, 2011 - 01:15am PT
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The bias here. Unbelievable! Man, I guess it's all about finding the right line (and finishing it, most of the nays never did). AW has some good stone!
 ec
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Scott Thelen
Trad climber
Truckee, Ca
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Feb 14, 2011 - 11:47am PT
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OK EC the rock is good. However when we were topping out on the Rowell route I grabbed a 6"by6" thin flake broke it off and tossed it like a Frisbee into the gully on the climbers left. I heard the rock hit hit again and then sounds of massive blocks crashing and a huge dust cloud. Back at camp later that night we talked are buddy who was watching over camp. He told us that six or seven car sized boulders shot out of the saddle between the Huge left wall and the summit wall making it almost to the trail scaring the crap out of everyone in the valley.
Getting packed in by a pack service costs about $300 and is highly recommended if your doing a nailing route or a FA.
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mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
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Feb 14, 2011 - 12:55pm PT
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I don't consider it a successful FA, or early repeat if you do not trundle with wild abandon.
Backcountry repeats, complete with issues on rock quality?......
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mooch
Trad climber
Old Climbers' Home (Adopted)
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Feb 14, 2011 - 01:02pm PT
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You might also want to hit up Brandon Thau.....I know they put a new route on the far right wing around 2006 or 2007.
Largo -
Not to steer OT but was wondering if 'All Along The Watchtower' (on The Watchtower) is a worthy objective.
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nutjob
Gym climber
Berkeley, CA
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Feb 14, 2011 - 02:15pm PT
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In the days before I knew anything about ropes, that chunk of rock lodged in my brain in the form of I WILL CLIMB THIS BEFORE I DIE. We were en route to a 4th class scramble up Black Kaweah.
First of 5 planned nights in, the river ~13 miles in before the rise to Angel Wings and Valhalla, we hung our food in a tree and a bear still got it (climbed the tree, swiped the rope and bag and ripped it open). My buddy smashed a metal sierra cup flat with adrenaline and trying to make noise. We make a bluff rush and the bear held his ground. We gave up and went to sleep about 20 yards from the rummaging bear, and in the morning scavenged what we could. In a morning I found the bear in some bushes and chased him up the pass (Elizabeth? it's been a long time)- he was less brave and I more so in the daylight. I found lots of other stuff he had bootied from previous backpackers, which we returned to a the backcountry ranger cabin.
2 other nights we stayed up at Precipice Lake and just had food tucked in between rocks and had no issues with bears. But we only had a little dry spaghetti and Reese's Pieces and a small can of tomato paste with bear tooth puncture in it.
I think Ray Jardine's PCT hiking advice is useful here... go bandit style and don't sleep at the established camps to avoid the bears. Or bring the big canisters.
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Captain...or Skully
climber
The Seas of Stone.
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Feb 18, 2011 - 09:27am PT
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Never had any bear trouble up there. The Marmots were everywhere, though.
They chewed up my pack, Phil's boots, his hat, & send our marmot proof bucket way down the hill, though they never got in it.
I climbed "All Along The WatchTower", Mooch. Pretty cool, though it had its moments. Belays could use some love, or at least then. Awesome place, that.
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Radish
Trad climber
SeKi, California
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Feb 18, 2011 - 11:20am PT
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I know some guys who snowshoed in around this time some years ago with alot of snow. They had full aid gear and did the big Aid route up the Angel Wings in winter. I think they took around 6 day, 2 guys.
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Spider Savage
Mountain climber
SoCal
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Aug 14, 2011 - 11:12am PT
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A very fine looking line.
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Renz Ecker
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Jan 14, 2013 - 08:23am PT
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The area was absolutely breath-taking! After staying for a week in Sequoia Resort, I have a wonderful experience and enjoyed a lot trekking in the wilderness. Angel Wings was one of the most beautiful views in the area.
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Feb 13, 2014 - 12:32pm PT
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Yo Maysho! What kind of 5.10 and how much?
18 miles? Sounds like $300 well spent.....
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weezy
climber
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Feb 13, 2014 - 12:43pm PT
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when will someone find Fred's haulbag with the coveted Black Book????
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Flip Flop
Trad climber
Truckee, CA
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May 16, 2014 - 02:17am PT
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Bump for EC , Mr. Big , Dave Nettle and mostly Bump for Valhalla.
A buddy and I were skiing the high route in skinny skiis and leather boots when we eyed this gift from the Sierras. What a pleasure to find a cirque like that with no warning. We vowed to return with gear and we did.
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