CLIMB and PUNISHMENT- An Open Telegram to Alex Honnold

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Roger Breedlove

climber
Cleveland Heights, Ohio
Mar 20, 2010 - 10:34am PT
Sully: I think Ed's prose style is mostly poetic images that get strung together in loose sentences. What he wrote here is not edited. I think that if it had suited him, the images, the word associations and play, the disjointed linking of several histories, and whatever Ed means by "And She will find you." would fit together nicely.

Nature: Ed's piece is a little rough; more speaking style than written. But for Ed, that is a matter of choice: Ed knows how to write any way he wants and has been doing it for a long time.

Two of the most interesting observations about ST is that almost all of the posters can write clear prose, and those who struggle, for whatever reason, are usually not criticized. It seems to be a self selection criterion.

aaronjones

climber
Mar 20, 2010 - 11:12am PT
suck a phat 1
tom woods

Gym climber
Bishop, CA
Mar 20, 2010 - 11:16am PT
Fletcher- I heard that after James T. Kirk fell, he came back the next day and finished the thing off with out the cameras and the annoying guy asking if the climb was logical.

PS- this drummond guy, who I don't know, can really write.
Wade Icey

Trad climber
www.alohashirtrescue.com
Mar 20, 2010 - 11:29am PT
Everything I've read by Mr Drummound has been well worth my time. OP included. Hard to object to any trace of literacy hereabouts.
the kid

Trad climber
fayetteville, wv
Mar 20, 2010 - 11:52am PT
Ed,
fantastic post and very telling of the changes the sport has gone through.
I too sometimes feel as if the modern media world drives this bus of over extreme exposure on all levels (think tiger woods etc)...

solo climbing should be all that- solo. when the camera and or video comes along it changes the game... now i am calling the kettle black here as i have solo pictures with me and JB simu solo..but... at some point it could get ugly...

Hankster- Ed is solid old school and a bad ass in his day. I remember his solo attempt of N. A wall and the epic storms he went through. I find his prowse to be complimentary as well and call to see Alex find a long happy life in climbing. Current path may not lead to that, but if it makes him happy...

smith/cosgrove 2012
soloing since 1980...
Tahoe climber

climber
Davis these days
Mar 20, 2010 - 12:03pm PT
I think, like watching someone's climbing style, that watching everyone's response to the OP tells a lot about them, and not that much about anything else.

Some are conservative and careful, but lack vision.
Some are balls-out go for it, but w/o planning for the future.
I'd bet the lives and climbing style of each is similar.

Meanwhile, on the topic itself: I think it's none of anyone's business if he does it. Alex is rad and smart and he should live his life - short or long - just the way he damn well pleases.
It is, at least, an interesting climbing topic, and not the other side of the Supertopo coin.

I also agreed with Hank and Werner.

And most of all, I agreed with Donini: "Climbers are individualistic, anarchistic, loners who don't take direction very well. I've learned not to give out much advice unless requested."

TC
pc

climber
Mar 20, 2010 - 12:34pm PT
Nice entrance.

Welcome to the fry Ed.
Jay Wood

Trad climber
Fairfax, CA
Mar 20, 2010 - 01:04pm PT
At his presentation to the RIM club, Alex said that that scene on thanksgiving ledge was kind of staged. That he was taking a breather, wasn't gripped, but there were some other crux moments on the climb.
Studly

Trad climber
WA
Mar 20, 2010 - 01:19pm PT
What about the hobo?
survival

Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
Mar 20, 2010 - 01:25pm PT
I think he does care what others think about his climbing.
He's too nice of a guy not to.

Everyone, almost to a man cares about what others think, at least a little.

If he didn't care what others thought, he wouldn't have had cameras along on HD.

And "staging" on one of the biggest free solos of all time?
Lambone

Ice climber
Ashland, Or
Mar 20, 2010 - 01:26pm PT
You sound like his mom.
Lambone

Ice climber
Ashland, Or
Mar 20, 2010 - 02:05pm PT
Yeah but do we need more than one?
survival

Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
Mar 20, 2010 - 02:19pm PT
Uh, yeah we do, babyface....
Lambone

Ice climber
Ashland, Or
Mar 20, 2010 - 02:27pm PT
I dunno...I don't think so.

When I read they OP, I got the impression that it seemed to assume Alex as some foolish kid climbing on a whim. I've met Alex in the valley and he's very much an adult who climbs with intention.

Leave him be, imho. If soloing El Cap is what he wants for his life, then so be it. Maybe for some people it IS worth dying for.

Patrick Sawyer

climber
Originally California now Ireland
Mar 20, 2010 - 04:09pm PT
um, what's a Friend?
jstan

climber
Mar 20, 2010 - 06:04pm PT
I must say. It is a beautiful day today.
Brock

Trad climber
RENO, NV
Mar 20, 2010 - 10:03pm PT
I don't mind reading about it (whether it occurs successful or in death). I do feel it is wrong to have it filmed. Nor should it be anounced prior to any attempt. It should be between Arnold and the rock. Would love to watch the film of such an event, but would hate to see someone fall to their death too. (this was edited thanks to WBraun noting my lack of attention to my writing).

There needs to be prior attention to making sure he is not in the falling line of anyone below him in case he should pitch. I would be pissed if he was soloing above me.

Would there be consequences for future roped climbers from the Yosemite rangers if such a stunt ends badly (unlikely, but maybe)?

Interesting forum.

WBraun

climber
Mar 20, 2010 - 10:18pm PT
"I do feel it is wrong to have it filmed and announced prior to any attempt."

How does one film a free solo before an attempt?
Lambone

Ice climber
Ashland, Or
Mar 20, 2010 - 10:40pm PT
Sorry but I pretty much think every point it Brock's post above is a crock of sh#t.

First who cares if he wants to be filmed. He makes a living off his climbing. The stakes are different. It's not like he's the first to be filmed pushing the limits. Who are you to tell him his style is wrong? In the same breath you say you want to watch but think it's wrong. Which is it?

Second, "falling line?" Are you serious? Look any time you choose to climb under someone you assume the risk of objective hazards falling from above, be it rocks, gear or bodies. What's he gunna do post a sign at the base?

Third, consequences from the NPS from him falling while being filmed??? WTF? LOL! Yeah maybe they will ban climbing because it's dangerous. Or make video cameras illegal along with power drills!

Again sorry to bust you balls Brock, but put down the bong brah, cause yer high.
Jeremy Handren

climber
NV
Mar 20, 2010 - 11:08pm PT
Jeez Ed...coming from the man who did LInden?

you're the last guy who should be wagging his finger at someone who winds his neck out on occasion.
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