Woodfords Canyon

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Messages 741 - 760 of total 2003 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
WML

climber
Biggest Little City, NV
Feb 21, 2013 - 11:04am PT
Kenny, any update on conditions up there?

Dan, bummer! Thanks for the info, any particular gear beta for Serenity Now if we make our way up there? ie: do I need big gear, offsets, or brassies?
WML

climber
Biggest Little City, NV
Feb 21, 2013 - 08:24pm PT
bump
Chim-Chim

climber
Feb 22, 2013 - 08:33am PT
WLM cams to 3" on first pitch. The second is mostly fingers three 3/4 inch would be nice otherwise some small to med wires and cams to 2" should be fine, save a 1" and 1 1/4" for the finishing moves. The climbs to the left are worthy. The second pitch wall is called Fire and Ice Wall... we had to build a fire in the sub-freezing conditions during the FA. Dan Heh Sasha And I are leaving on a road trip @ mid april REd Rocks is in the plan. Let's climb.
WML

climber
Biggest Little City, NV
Feb 22, 2013 - 06:15pm PT
Yo! Didn't make it up high today, wound up with a party of 3 and keeping things pretty mellow. Did perfect LB and OULD, a stellar day.


WML leading OULD
WML leading OULD
Credit: WML

Beautiful day out on the rocks with rad folks.
Chim-Chim

climber
Feb 22, 2013 - 06:36pm PT
Looks like you had a great time. nice photo, Dan
WML

climber
Biggest Little City, NV
Feb 22, 2013 - 07:38pm PT
Thanks man! Feel free to get in touch with me before your Red Rock trip. I will be in Michigan for some work-related stuff at some point in April, but should be able to find some time to get out and play at high season.
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal
Feb 23, 2013 - 10:49am PT
Why yes i do Moose! I see those ol rusty 1/4 inchers havent been replaced on the west wall route lol! They are prolly bomber still..



edit: WTH??? Moose,, yur vid was there and then it went poof! U trolling me lol!
moosedrool

Trad climber
lost, far away from Poland
Feb 23, 2013 - 11:00am PT
Sorry Ron, I had to fix something.

Also, check the Carson Valley thread.

the czar

climber
meyers, ca.
Feb 23, 2013 - 09:13pm PT
a buddy and myself would go to the west wall route and do laps cuz it is such a fun route, we did however dub it "focus fest" bcuz of the friction friction friction! mostly because we didnt know any name for it. still a fun climb, we've been goin a bit over the roofy part at the tree(bush) for a directish finish to the anchor, that part is still cleaning up and a bit harder than the bottom. have fun! p.s. would love to rip them bolts out and put new guys in, i aint falling on those things! i see its an unknown f a, mostly to try n lead it and asking outta respect. dave.
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal
Feb 23, 2013 - 09:37pm PT
Anchor? The anchor was always the small pine at the top? Past the third bolt you angle up slightly to the left then following the small dihedral- plugging in two near uselss tcus in it before the bush, tie off the bush and go straight up to the pine belay.. I know those 1/4 inchers are at least 37 years old...
Chim-Chim

climber
Feb 25, 2013 - 08:25am PT
Jebus. I rated OULD 5.10b, after hacking the veges after Paul did the fa. On the ffa,I copped a no hands rest by stepping left onto some knobs then stepping back right to finish the thin crux. Maybe if you don't get that rest it could be considered harder. The consensus among the monkeys that have been on it many times is 5.10b/c. I kinda had it rehearsed as I had followed Paul Tiesla, a few days earlier. I think a fair grade ffor the onsight would be 5.10c. Dan CZAR FRI?
Jebus H Bomz

climber
Peavine Basecamp
Feb 25, 2013 - 08:44am PT
Hey Dan, I've heard from 5.10a to 5.10d on OULD, so the opinions flow fast and free at the Fords! Half the fun of climbing there is comparing how hard people think the routes are. There's many a climb there I hear about up to 3 letter grades of discrepancy between different climbers. I wonder if your guide will firm up some of the consensus.

I think 5.10c is fair for OULD, that's around my usual onsight level and it felt right about there when I did so. If you're dialed for techie granite stuff it will feel easier, I think that's why I've heard down to 5.10a on it.

Maybe there should be the three grade system at Woodfords: 1. Can get it clean, 2. Can get up it somehow, 3. Can't get up it at all. It would simplify my conversations with friends about the Fords!
Footloose

Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 25, 2013 - 08:57am PT
I think 5.10c is fair... that's around my usual onsight level...

Woohoo! I think I just might've found my ropegun for Conness Southwest Face this season. ;)
Jebus H Bomz

climber
Peavine Basecamp
Feb 25, 2013 - 09:04am PT
Well, "usual" when I'm not recovering from an injury, Footloose. I'm afraid my dance card is filled on that particular climb so far though. If I do it twice in one season though or my partner bails, I will let you know!

I think I need to recover to leading first though, or I won't be rope gunning anything soon.

edit: Oh yeah, I'm digging the trail running thing, I know that is your gig too. I'm finally finding the "gears" when I run so that I can keep the legs going on the uphills. It's a blast! I don't know why people pound the cement when you have beautiful trails out there. I just got back from one this morning ;).
WML

climber
Biggest Little City, NV
Feb 25, 2013 - 09:07am PT
Dare I say that it might be a height dependent crux? Caveat being that I am not the tallest guy out there (5'7), have fat fingers, big hands, and a low IQ. And I'm light.


Felt 10c/d to me, but only a few moves at that grade.

*dodges tomatoes*



Seriously though, wish I had another inch or two reach (yeah yeah, what she said...)


edit:

edit: Oh yeah, I'm digging the trail running thing, I know that is your gig too. I'm finally finding the "gears" when I run so that I can keep the legs going on the uphills. It's a blast! I don't know why people pound the cement when you have beautiful trails out there.

once I 'saw the light' on trail running, never understood the pavement pounders either. Whatever, less of them clogging up the trails...
the czar

climber
meyers, ca.
Feb 25, 2013 - 09:22am PT
yeah im in chim. been lazy too long.!
that one kid on that one .9.
that one kid on that one .9.
Credit: the czar
Chim-Chim

climber
Feb 25, 2013 - 09:45am PT
Wlm, I'm 5'3,3/4". 70" wingspan. It is a bit reachy and fat fingers wouldn't help. Dan Czar, Adenosine Tri-phosphate, High Energy wall. Fingerbang on Friday?
WML

climber
Biggest Little City, NV
Feb 25, 2013 - 09:49am PT
^^^ as I learned. long reaches to insecure jams for me.
Chim-Chim

climber
Feb 25, 2013 - 10:02am PT
YA, the lock before the knobby rest was a little stump for years, now a decent lock... for me. Gotta get Serenity Now before you move. A few tough cruxes. Dan
WML

climber
Biggest Little City, NV
Feb 25, 2013 - 10:19am PT
Dan, unfortunately pulling the moving truck out EARLY Sat AM...and am officially a member of the NFL until I can escape for PM bouldering/climbing sessions in Vegas until the house is unpackedd.

NFL = No Fun League.
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