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cultureshock
Trad climber
Mountain View
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Aug 14, 2013 - 04:37pm PT
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Fast response!
I think its 11c for the first pitch 12c for the second according to Chim-Chim's guide and my friend's experience.
Do you know where Goldenshowers is located?
Any other suggestins for good 12's to get on?
 Luke
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sasha Cohen
Trad climber
South Lake Tahoe CA
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Aug 15, 2013 - 12:34am PT
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Heh, there are many routes in the grade range that you would like know about. Golden shower is located upstream from King Diamond Wall, drop into the drainage above the sandy approach to OOTD follow the left side of the creek past a recent rock fall, just before the bend left start at a slab-crack system, 5.7 decent pro, that lies below an obvious west-facing crack (not easily seen from below) overhanging hands and wider lead to a crux and anchor. Sash
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Footloose
Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 15, 2013 - 12:41am PT
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Wow,
those are awesome shots, Luke!
Thanks for posting those!!
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sasha Cohen
Trad climber
South Lake Tahoe CA
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Aug 15, 2013 - 01:01am PT
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whats recon?
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sasha Cohen
Trad climber
South Lake Tahoe CA
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Aug 15, 2013 - 01:35am PT
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Salamanizer
Trad climber
The land of Fruits & Nuts!
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Aug 15, 2013 - 02:05am PT
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Oh jesus! Thank god it's harder than the Anderson guide suggests. I was thinking the whole time I'm really out of shape.
We were out there a few weeks ago and I got on Power Surge. I lead the first pitch and thought it was solid for .11c. Awkward but strait forward. The second pitch my partner started and gave up quickly on the overhanging fingers crack. I took over and thought the steep section was solid of .11c, the traverse was easy .10 or .9 but that upper flairing crack was a total sumbitch above. I struggled and fought, cussed and ran out of gear, you name it. With lichen filled eyes I squeaked out the onsight but it was definately one of the hardest won battles I've done in a while. Besides Basket Case, that was worse.
I wouldn't call it .12c though. .12a/b tops ;)
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cultureshock
Trad climber
Mountain View
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Aug 15, 2013 - 12:34pm PT
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Cool!
My friends went and cleaned up the top of Powersurge so that should help. No Lichen in the face.
Nice work with the OS. Chad I think you are stronger than you know :-D
How about a TR from Basket Case. I have been waiting for Alexy to write it up.
Sasha, no photo shop, Ben just really digs the bat hangs. I'm sure there are tons of routes up there. I really need to make a trip!
If you want to see more photos check out my friend Adam's blog:
http://climbinghouse.com/2013/08/bathanging-at-woodfords.html
He shot the photos from above.
Luke
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alltalk
climber
Berkeley
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Aug 15, 2013 - 12:54pm PT
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Agreed about the impressive onsight Salamanizer. After we cleaned up the upper headwall, it looked more promising, but even 2nd attempt I still got whooped. Definitely one of the most fun routes I've done, and with more traffic to get rid of the remaining grit it'll be a classic. Thanks to whoever put the nice shiny chains at the top.
Sasha or Chim Chim, do you happen to know the names/grades of the routes around left of golden showers? When we were out there this weekend we thought we'd stumbled upon FA gold until we noticed the chains at the top... GS looks amazing and steep!!!
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i'm gumby dammit
Sport climber
da ow
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Aug 15, 2013 - 01:37pm PT
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That name alone could change the way I feel about offwidths.
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alltalk
climber
Berkeley
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Aug 15, 2013 - 01:39pm PT
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chim chim, have you heard of any one checking out the stuff on the next terrace above cloud walker? It looks like some potential lines up there, but I'm not sure how you'd get up there. Maybe adventure pitch up the stuff to the left of the rock scar?
Or am I thinking cloud walker is a different route? I saw something with shiny chains up hill (east of the rock scar) in a narrow gully opposite a really clean looking corner crack and a sport bolted face. These two climbs were especially on the backside of the OOTDs feature.
Either way, if you have names grades for any of those routes it'd be much appreciated. I love to explore up there and knowing what's been done is always helpful.
Casey
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alltalk
climber
Berkeley
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Aug 15, 2013 - 02:12pm PT
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Ron,
I'm thirsting for new routes and willing to bushwhack, but it's be nice to know where to concentrate my efforts! Please point the way! Your topo of high energy area indicates that there is a nice wall on the back side facing westish. Any more info?!
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Laine
Trad climber
Reno, NV
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Aug 15, 2013 - 02:22pm PT
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Stand in the middle of Hwy 88 and spin around till you are dizzy, then stop and hike in the direction you are facing and I promise you will find your climb.
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alltalk
climber
Berkeley
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Aug 15, 2013 - 02:26pm PT
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Ron and Laine thanks for the info! Unfortunately (or fortunately) I'll be in Spain for the fall betraying my inner tradie by clipping evil bolts under the Mediterranean sun. But I'll definitely pass on the info and continue my quest when I return in January.
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i'm gumby dammit
Sport climber
da ow
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Aug 15, 2013 - 03:00pm PT
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mantener a Espaņa negrita!
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Salamanizer
Trad climber
The land of Fruits & Nuts!
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Aug 15, 2013 - 05:20pm PT
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Stand in the middle of Hwy 88 and spin around till you are dizzy, then stop and hike in the direction you are facing and I promise you will find your climb.
That is how I feel every time I enter the canyon. That place is rather confusing.
The onsight of Power surge wasn't that impressive. Rather, it was pretty grim. If I'd have known it was harder than .11c I'd have given up and not allow my ego to propel me further up that crunch fest. It was the second route of the day. Afterward, I sat in the shade feeling like I just got worked in an offwidth, drank a beer and was done for the day.
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the czar
climber
meyers, ca.
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Aug 23, 2013 - 12:25pm PT
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Bottomfeeder, chim chim rising out of the filth... photo by d.clock.
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Laine
Trad climber
Reno, NV
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Aug 23, 2013 - 02:17pm PT
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FInally got that climb cleaned up, eh? Nice work.
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kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
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Aug 24, 2013 - 06:14pm PT
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It was smokey there today! but fun climbing none the less
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kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
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Aug 28, 2013 - 09:42am PT
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Dan, climbing this weekend? I hear the smoke may clear
chim chim, have you heard of any one checking out the stuff on the next terrace above cloud walker?
there are three sets of anchors and Scott Thelen started cleaning them
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Laine
Trad climber
Reno, NV
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Aug 28, 2013 - 03:44pm PT
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I'm planning on getting out to the Fords one day this weekend. Hope to see all your smiling faces.
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