Woodfords Canyon

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Messages 681 - 700 of total 2059 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
Footloose

Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 18, 2013 - 02:14pm PT
Kevin Bacon at Woodfords - imagine that! :)
kennyt

climber
Woodfords,California
Feb 20, 2013 - 11:44am PT
1/2 inch maybe.
kennyt

climber
Woodfords,California
Feb 20, 2013 - 11:52am PT
Possibly, maybe.
kennyt

climber
Woodfords,California
Feb 20, 2013 - 11:59am PT
I'm hoping for sunday.
Chim-Chim

climber
Feb 20, 2013 - 05:29pm PT
WML, we're heading up on Friday. See you up there. Dan
Chim-Chim

climber
Feb 20, 2013 - 07:51pm PT
WML it's possible to tr that climb. Extend the anchor <>ten feet more or less. Lower off to the left down the slab, to the bottom ten or fifteen feet to the left or the start. Watch the end of the rope, you may have to step up a bit. If the weather is good you have to sample the treats on the Albatross. The roofy formation above Ould. Dan
Chim-Chim

climber
Feb 21, 2013 - 10:54am PT
80 meter no problem 70 watch tthe end of rope. Heh, I may not be able to make it fri... have a meeting to go to at 10 am. Dan
the czar

climber
meyers, ca.
Feb 21, 2013 - 11:00am PT
chim- friday may be off just bcuz of snow. bout 2 inches out here overnight, didnt expect that!
Footloose

Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 21, 2013 - 11:03am PT
There's only a dusting in the valley this morning, not even a quarter inch. It's curious as presently there are only blue skies everywhere! Dusting of snow will be gone within the hour. I'll be climbing this afternoon, woohoo! :)
Chim-Chim

climber
Feb 22, 2013 - 11:33am PT
WLM cams to 3" on first pitch. The second is mostly fingers three 3/4 inch would be nice otherwise some small to med wires and cams to 2" should be fine, save a 1" and 1 1/4" for the finishing moves. The climbs to the left are worthy. The second pitch wall is called Fire and Ice Wall... we had to build a fire in the sub-freezing conditions during the FA. Dan Heh Sasha And I are leaving on a road trip @ mid april REd Rocks is in the plan. Let's climb.
Chim-Chim

climber
Feb 22, 2013 - 09:36pm PT
Looks like you had a great time. nice photo, Dan
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal
Feb 23, 2013 - 01:49pm PT
Why yes i do Moose! I see those ol rusty 1/4 inchers havent been replaced on the west wall route lol! They are prolly bomber still..



edit: WTH??? Moose,, yur vid was there and then it went poof! U trolling me lol!
moosedrool

Trad climber
lost, far away from Poland
Feb 23, 2013 - 02:00pm PT
Sorry Ron, I had to fix something.

Also, check the Carson Valley thread.

the czar

climber
meyers, ca.
Feb 24, 2013 - 12:13am PT
a buddy and myself would go to the west wall route and do laps cuz it is such a fun route, we did however dub it "focus fest" bcuz of the friction friction friction! mostly because we didnt know any name for it. still a fun climb, we've been goin a bit over the roofy part at the tree(bush) for a directish finish to the anchor, that part is still cleaning up and a bit harder than the bottom. have fun! p.s. would love to rip them bolts out and put new guys in, i aint falling on those things! i see its an unknown f a, mostly to try n lead it and asking outta respect. dave.
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal
Feb 24, 2013 - 12:37am PT
Anchor? The anchor was always the small pine at the top? Past the third bolt you angle up slightly to the left then following the small dihedral- plugging in two near uselss tcus in it before the bush, tie off the bush and go straight up to the pine belay.. I know those 1/4 inchers are at least 37 years old...
Chim-Chim

climber
Feb 25, 2013 - 11:25am PT
Jebus. I rated OULD 5.10b, after hacking the veges after Paul did the fa. On the ffa,I copped a no hands rest by stepping left onto some knobs then stepping back right to finish the thin crux. Maybe if you don't get that rest it could be considered harder. The consensus among the monkeys that have been on it many times is 5.10b/c. I kinda had it rehearsed as I had followed Paul Tiesla, a few days earlier. I think a fair grade ffor the onsight would be 5.10c. Dan CZAR FRI?
Jebus H Bomz

climber
Peavine Basecamp
Feb 25, 2013 - 11:44am PT
Hey Dan, I've heard from 5.10a to 5.10d on OULD, so the opinions flow fast and free at the Fords! Half the fun of climbing there is comparing how hard people think the routes are. There's many a climb there I hear about up to 3 letter grades of discrepancy between different climbers. I wonder if your guide will firm up some of the consensus.

I think 5.10c is fair for OULD, that's around my usual onsight level and it felt right about there when I did so. If you're dialed for techie granite stuff it will feel easier, I think that's why I've heard down to 5.10a on it.

Maybe there should be the three grade system at Woodfords: 1. Can get it clean, 2. Can get up it somehow, 3. Can't get up it at all. It would simplify my conversations with friends about the Fords!
Footloose

Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 25, 2013 - 11:57am PT
I think 5.10c is fair... that's around my usual onsight level...

Woohoo! I think I just might've found my ropegun for Conness Southwest Face this season. ;)
Jebus H Bomz

climber
Peavine Basecamp
Feb 25, 2013 - 12:04pm PT
Well, "usual" when I'm not recovering from an injury, Footloose. I'm afraid my dance card is filled on that particular climb so far though. If I do it twice in one season though or my partner bails, I will let you know!

I think I need to recover to leading first though, or I won't be rope gunning anything soon.

edit: Oh yeah, I'm digging the trail running thing, I know that is your gig too. I'm finally finding the "gears" when I run so that I can keep the legs going on the uphills. It's a blast! I don't know why people pound the cement when you have beautiful trails out there. I just got back from one this morning ;).
the czar

climber
meyers, ca.
Feb 25, 2013 - 12:22pm PT
yeah im in chim. been lazy too long.!
that one kid on that one .9.
that one kid on that one .9.
Credit: the czar
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