Woodfords Canyon

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Messages 681 - 700 of total 2119 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
Chim-Chim

climber
Feb 9, 2013 - 12:09pm PT
Kenny, I'll give you a shout if we go. The new spot could be perfect, gotta get the Ok from the discoverer. He has off so it might be a go.
BurnRockBurn

climber
South of Black Rock City (CC,NV)
Feb 9, 2013 - 03:47pm PT
Was an Awsome day up there. Great to see everyone again. Chims guide is looking Awsome
Shawn
kennyt

climber
Woodfords,California
Feb 9, 2013 - 04:08pm PT
Hey Shawn, I think were gonna make it up there tomorrow.
WML

climber
Biggest Little City, NV
Feb 9, 2013 - 05:06pm PT
Kenny- how's snow coverage looking?
kennyt

climber
Woodfords,California
Feb 9, 2013 - 05:07pm PT
Zero snow.
kennyt

climber
Woodfords,California
Feb 9, 2013 - 05:14pm PT
Are you heading up?
WML

climber
Biggest Little City, NV
Feb 9, 2013 - 05:21pm PT
Considering it depending on how my injured finger feels and whether or not i can get ahold of any beta on this Serenity Now climb everyone has been babbling about. Anyone got a picture of this thing or how to get to it from the top of OULD? Or how to get to it, period?


I think this will be my final trip up before i move so just wanna do the last few people have been hyping up, provided my finger is OK. In other news. I'm light :-)
JustThatEasy

climber
South Lake Tahoe, CA
Feb 9, 2013 - 08:48pm PT
WML,

There's several ways to get to "Serenity Now" (.10d), but I'll give you the directions I'm most familiar with.
First, you have to make your way to the "Way the Hell Up There" (.11c) area. The climb starts to the right, and slightly lower down from the base of that route.
To get there traverse right from the bottom of High Caliber Corridor to a short 3rd/ easy 4th class section. This scramble is marked by a singular pine tree. After the initial scramble keep traversing east and slightly up, angling towards "Way the Hell Up There". The first pitch (of two) climbs on the right side of that formation.
Pitch one is characterized by broken and discontinuous climbing; kinda alpine-like. The end of the pitch goes up a couple short corners and deposits you on a ledge on the climber's left. It's only an access pitch leading you to the goods, which are on the second pitch.
Pitch two leaves the ledge on it's right side and climbs a finger crack to a crack switch about 20' up. Follow the crack as it arcs leftwards to a two bolt anchor. Awesome.
To descend rap Serenity Now's anchor to the ledge. Scramble 40' south to the top of "Way the Hell Up There" which is behind you when you're at the base of Serenity Now's second pitch. Rap off two bolts to the ground.
Chim-Chim

climber
Feb 10, 2013 - 11:04am PT
Don't forget to climb the two climbs to the left of serenity now. The right facing corner is Banana Republic 5.9 the center route( I forget what I named it is 5.10d. The approach pitch has excellent rock just a little broken. The traverse to the left across some knobs from the left-facing corner is awesome. Just That Easy, do I know you? Dan K. Oh heh Ryan!
Wlm the squat formation above ould is the albatross equipped and ready to climb.
Chim-Chim

climber
Feb 11, 2013 - 11:07am PT
Did anyone get up there this weekend? We're going up on Tuesday. Kenny are you going up? D.K.
JustThatEasy

climber
South Lake Tahoe, CA
Feb 11, 2013 - 11:16am PT
Hey Chim! Sounds like great temps the next few days. You plan on doing more cookin' tomorrow?
WML

climber
Biggest Little City, NV
Feb 11, 2013 - 11:28am PT
Thanks for the info, guys! Rack recommendations? Probably heading up this next weekend. Finger is starting to improve and hopefully will be 100% by then.
kennyt

climber
Woodfords,California
Feb 11, 2013 - 11:52am PT
Dan, mark and I are heading up today.
Laine

Trad climber
Reno, NV
Feb 11, 2013 - 01:54pm PT
Two of us got out to woodfords yesterday. Slightly over cast, cold and windy as hell on the wall. We tried a line Id scoped earlier, but since neither of us could feel our fingers, committing to a akward layback in a steep corner on tiny gear as the wind chilled us to the bone wasnt in the cards. Maybe next time.
moving into the corner
moving into the corner
Credit: Laine
THIN gear in an akward corner.
THIN gear in an akward corner.
Credit: Laine
As soon as we bailed the wind died down. Feeling a new sense of inspiration (and warmth) we decided to give a nearby oldskool crack a go. But as luck would have it as soon as Jason racked up, the wind kicked up and the light began to fall behind the wall. Regardless of this piercing wind and fading light he got after it.

Joe Herbst would love this route! Wide hands to offwidth to chimney, gardening as you go. A slick, slabby corner with a few finger jams (once excavated) guards a nice ledge just below broken slabs at exactly 30m. Full value the whole way (though it doesn't seem it from the ground). I followed and literally cleaning as I climb. We setup an anchor and got outta Dodge. I kid you not, as soon as I touched back down to terra firma, the wind stopped yet again. Just another day a fords!
starting on the slab
starting on the slab
Credit: Laine
the crux of the matter
the crux of the matter
Credit: Laine
chimney section &#40;quite slick&#41;, pro in the back
chimney section (quite slick), pro in the back
Credit: Laine
Jason stopping to do a bit of gardening to unlock the finish
Jason stopping to do a bit of gardening to unlock the finish
Credit: Laine
looking down the route
looking down the route
Credit: Laine
T Hocking

Trad climber
Redding, Ca
Feb 11, 2013 - 03:16pm PT
Cool, er should I say COLD!
Love the pics, thanks for posting up!!!
Tad
kennyt

climber
Woodfords,California
Feb 11, 2013 - 06:58pm PT
Nice photos Laine, we were up today beutiful blue skys but cold.
Chim-Chim

climber
Feb 11, 2013 - 08:23pm PT
JUST T E no stove we're going to The Hood Sasha Christina and Adam. If we set them up maybe we could go up on Topo or what not. Give a shout
Footloose

Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 12, 2013 - 12:26pm PT
Might I suggest giving this a go...

Credit: Footloose


It's steeper than it looks in the photo. Bring your OW skills. :)
WML

climber
Biggest Little City, NV
Feb 12, 2013 - 01:13pm PT
I had been eyeing that thing the other weekend. How hard? 9+? LOL
Laine

Trad climber
Reno, NV
Feb 12, 2013 - 01:30pm PT
Footloose, is that the main aclove?
Messages 681 - 700 of total 2119 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
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