Woodfords Canyon

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Chim-Chim

climber

Feb 9, 2013 - 09:09am PT

Kenny, I'll give you a shout if we go. The new spot could be perfect, gotta get the Ok from the discoverer. He has off so it might be a go.

BurnRockBurn

climber

South of Black Rock City (CC,NV)

Feb 9, 2013 - 12:47pm PT

Was an Awsome day up there. Great to see everyone again. Chims guide is looking Awsome
Shawn

kennyt

climber

Woodfords,California

Feb 9, 2013 - 01:08pm PT

Hey Shawn, I think were gonna make it up there tomorrow.

WML

climber

Biggest Little City, NV

Feb 9, 2013 - 02:06pm PT

Kenny- how's snow coverage looking?

kennyt

climber

Woodfords,California

Feb 9, 2013 - 02:07pm PT

Zero snow.

kennyt

climber

Woodfords,California

Feb 9, 2013 - 02:14pm PT

Are you heading up?

WML

climber

Biggest Little City, NV

Feb 9, 2013 - 02:21pm PT

Considering it depending on how my injured finger feels and whether or not i can get ahold of any beta on this Serenity Now climb everyone has been babbling about. Anyone got a picture of this thing or how to get to it from the top of OULD? Or how to get to it, period?

I think this will be my final trip up before i move so just wanna do the last few people have been hyping up, provided my finger is OK. In other news. I'm light :-)

JustThatEasy

climber

South Lake Tahoe, CA

Feb 9, 2013 - 05:48pm PT

WML,

There's several ways to get to "Serenity Now" (.10d), but I'll give you the directions I'm most familiar with.
First, you have to make your way to the "Way the Hell Up There" (.11c) area. The climb starts to the right, and slightly lower down from the base of that route.
To get there traverse right from the bottom of High Caliber Corridor to a short 3rd/ easy 4th class section. This scramble is marked by a singular pine tree. After the initial scramble keep traversing east and slightly up, angling towards "Way the Hell Up There". The first pitch (of two) climbs on the right side of that formation.
Pitch one is characterized by broken and discontinuous climbing; kinda alpine-like. The end of the pitch goes up a couple short corners and deposits you on a ledge on the climber's left. It's only an access pitch leading you to the goods, which are on the second pitch.
Pitch two leaves the ledge on it's right side and climbs a finger crack to a crack switch about 20' up. Follow the crack as it arcs leftwards to a two bolt anchor. Awesome.
To descend rap Serenity Now's anchor to the ledge. Scramble 40' south to the top of "Way the Hell Up There" which is behind you when you're at the base of Serenity Now's second pitch. Rap off two bolts to the ground.

Chim-Chim

climber

Feb 10, 2013 - 08:04am PT

Don't forget to climb the two climbs to the left of serenity now. The right facing corner is Banana Republic 5.9 the center route( I forget what I named it is 5.10d. The approach pitch has excellent rock just a little broken. The traverse to the left across some knobs from the left-facing corner is awesome. Just That Easy, do I know you? Dan K. Oh heh Ryan!
Wlm the squat formation above ould is the albatross equipped and ready to climb.

Chim-Chim

climber

Feb 11, 2013 - 08:07am PT

Did anyone get up there this weekend? We're going up on Tuesday. Kenny are you going up? D.K.

JustThatEasy

climber

South Lake Tahoe, CA

Feb 11, 2013 - 08:16am PT

Hey Chim! Sounds like great temps the next few days. You plan on doing more cookin' tomorrow?

WML

climber

Biggest Little City, NV

Feb 11, 2013 - 08:28am PT

Thanks for the info, guys! Rack recommendations? Probably heading up this next weekend. Finger is starting to improve and hopefully will be 100% by then.

kennyt

climber

Woodfords,California

Feb 11, 2013 - 08:52am PT

Dan, mark and I are heading up today.

Laine

Trad climber

Reno, NV

Feb 11, 2013 - 10:54am PT

Two of us got out to woodfords yesterday. Slightly over cast, cold and windy as hell on the wall. We tried a line I’d scoped earlier, but since neither of us could feel our fingers, committing to a akward layback in a steep corner on tiny gear as the wind chilled us to the bone wasn’t in the cards. Maybe next time.


	moving into the corner Credit: Laine


	THIN gear in an akward corner. Credit: Laine

As soon as we bailed the wind died down. Feeling a new sense of inspiration (and warmth) we decided to give a nearby oldskool crack a go. But as luck would have it as soon as Jason racked up, the wind kicked up and the light began to fall behind the wall. Regardless of this piercing wind and fading light he got after it.

Joe Herbst would love this route! Wide hands to offwidth to chimney, gardening as you go. A slick, slabby corner with a few finger jams (once excavated) guards a nice ledge just below broken slabs at exactly 30m. Full value the whole way (though it doesn't seem it from the ground). I followed and literally cleaning as I climb. We setup an anchor and got outta Dodge. I kid you not, as soon as I touched back down to terra firma, the wind stopped yet again. Just another day a fords!