kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
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Nov 30, 2012 - 12:02pm PT
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Bill, Ive placed hundreds of cs bolts with ss hangers bitd and the only thing I've noticed is the washers rust a little paint the hangers if your worried about it if the two metals aren't in contact galvanic corrosionc shouldn't occur. If your going to spend the $$$$ on ss bolts why not fork out the extra buck for a compatible hanger?
You will probably be bitched slapped anyhow
Stainless steel hangers from metolius 3.50
Fixe plated steel hanger 2.40
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kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
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Nov 30, 2012 - 12:22pm PT
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Hey Footloose, there are plenty of stainless steel hangers up at the bandit crag next to those cracks.
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Footloose
Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 30, 2012 - 12:24pm PT
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Kenny, you're crackin me up over here, lol!
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kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
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Nov 30, 2012 - 12:25pm PT
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I have cabin fever today
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kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
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Nov 30, 2012 - 04:30pm PT
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woodfords 4:30 pm
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WML
climber
Biggest Little City, NV
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Bump for conditions update. Hoping Monday will be good to go...
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Chim-Chim
climber
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Looks like it could be possible. its pouring on lower Ski Run blvd. If it stops by early evening, it could be in condition. Skiing could be grim.
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kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
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It's been pouring all night here. one mile from the canyon
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WML
climber
Biggest Little City, NV
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fingers crossed that it stops early...how much of a nightmare is the approach after a rain?
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Jebus H Bomz
climber
Reno, Nuh VAAAA duh
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I'd think it would be better, make some of that sand stick together. I've done the approach in the rain, I don't remember it being terrible beyond the usual huff and puff. Give us a crack report if you go up, so we know which ones retain the moisture after a rain storm ;).
I bet shallow cracks and face climbs would be good to go with a little wind and sun, not sure about the deeper sort. To this day though, I've only climbed Quoia in the rain. It added something as the moss became slimy.
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Ron Anderson
Trad climber
Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal
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go now,, practice yur EIGER psyche!
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Footloose
Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 2, 2012 - 12:21pm PT
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Yeah, I'm in... the Eiger psyche!
The Eiger psyche is a rare bird. None but mine manifest this morning.
Can you all tell which way the wind was blowing? LOL!
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WML
climber
Biggest Little City, NV
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Sun is out in Reno, like nothing happened. Fingers crossed. Bringing bouldering pad in case I am stuck going to the Washoe Boulders...
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Chim-Chim
climber
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If it's 50 degress in Reno with light winds not east that is, it should be fine up there. Firm sand on the approach will help. I be Jammin stays wet, OULD should be good as well as Whisker Bisquit and Walking Jack, The Books should be fine as well as the routes that rise above the belay platform. I'd go for sure but I'm goin to the Kirkwood. Have fun.
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WML
climber
Biggest Little City, NV
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Thanks for the beta, Chim! We are going to decide tomorrow morning whether it will be backcountry skiing or climbing at Woodfords. Can't wait to make it back up there, love it.
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Salamanizer
Trad climber
The land of Fruits & Nuts!
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So where's the camping around there? The only reason I haven't made it up there more than once was because I couldn't figure out where any plush (free) camping was. Also, I could really use a tour guide.
On another note, you guys are crazy if you're using Metolius hangers. Those are so 90's and like getting Starbucks when 7-11 will do.
In good faith I'll let you all onto my secret. ClimbTech gear has stainless hangers for 2.45, but you can talk em down to 1.95 if you get 100 bucks or more. They also have plated steel hangers for 1.65ea and Powers stud bolts for 1.75ea which is a pretty good deal. There's a good sale going on for 5/16 quicklinks for .75 cents each too.
So, about that tour guide?
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Footloose
Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 2, 2012 - 10:52pm PT
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Sal,
Good to hear you're eyeing Woodfords again. Unfor I can't do tomorrow (looks like only partly sunny anyways, via point forecast) but let's get on it !! next sunny weather break as I've been wanting to get together a long time now. Are high temps required? Hell no. Because winter side is all south facing and when hit by the sun in these alcoves she gets warm even at 45.
Now of course a tour is going to cost you later this spring though - I'm thinking a partner - adventurous, hard-driving - either at the Hulk, Keeler or at this Angel Wings spectacle.
Next sunny weather, I'll PM you.
Maybe you can get out weekdays also.
P.S. I discovered ClimbTech (thanks again BT), and ordered bolts, hangers and quick links from them just last week. It was a good deal.
http://forecast.weather.gov/MapClick.php?lat=38.78781013665601&lon=-119.80865478515625
Next weekend forecasted sunny, maybe.
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Jebus H Bomz
climber
Reno, Nuh VAAAA duh
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So where's the camping around there? The only reason I haven't made it up there more than once was because I couldn't figure out where any plush (free) camping was. Also, I could really use a tour guide.
I would tour ya around, but they won't let me climb right now.
If you got there and couldn't find free camping, we'd need to revoke all that manly wandering in the woods stuff you carry on about ;). It's pretty easy, just go to one of the several pullouts that isn't a campground or a neighborhood and camp.
edit: Oh yeah, Footloose, if you can't find a partner, I'm doing Positive Vibes, hell or high water this next season. We'll see if I'm in "gunning" shape for that, I'm recovering from some broken sh#t right now, but I'll certainly swap leads.
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kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
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I,love to spend my extra money on metolius hangers and expensive bolts.
Sal, there is more "plush"free camping than you could even imagine a stones throw away from the canyon
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Chim-Chim
climber
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You can camp anywhere along the river that doesn't have a no camping sign, 16 days in a row. The eviction process won't stsrt till a sheriff gives you the date of departure so basically you can can as long as you want, just don't annoy anyone and you good to stay for extended periods of time. This time of year am sun is in short supply. D.K.
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