Woodfords Canyon

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kennyt

climber

Woodfords,California

Nov 30, 2012 - 03:22pm PT

Hey Footloose, there are plenty of stainless steel hangers up at the bandit crag next to those cracks.

Footloose

Trad climber

Lake Tahoe

Topic Author's Reply - Nov 30, 2012 - 03:24pm PT

Kenny, you're crackin me up over here, lol!

kennyt

climber

Woodfords,California

Nov 30, 2012 - 03:25pm PT

I have cabin fever today

kennyt

climber

Woodfords,California

Nov 30, 2012 - 07:30pm PT

woodfords 4:30 pm

kennyt

climber

Woodfords,California

Dec 2, 2012 - 01:37pm PT

It's been pouring all night here. one mile from the canyon

Footloose

Trad climber

Lake Tahoe

Topic Author's Reply - Dec 2, 2012 - 03:21pm PT

Yeah, I'm in... the Eiger psyche!

The Eiger psyche is a rare bird. None but mine manifest this morning.

Can you all tell which way the wind was blowing? LOL!

Salamanizer

Trad climber

The land of Fruits & Nuts!

Dec 3, 2012 - 01:00am PT

So where's the camping around there? The only reason I haven't made it up there more than once was because I couldn't figure out where any plush (free) camping was. Also, I could really use a tour guide.

On another note, you guys are crazy if you're using Metolius hangers. Those are so 90's and like getting Starbucks when 7-11 will do.
In good faith I'll let you all onto my secret. ClimbTech gear has stainless hangers for 2.45, but you can talk em down to 1.95 if you get 100 bucks or more. They also have plated steel hangers for 1.65ea and Powers stud bolts for 1.75ea which is a pretty good deal. There's a good sale going on for 5/16 quicklinks for .75 cents each too.

So, about that tour guide?

Footloose

Trad climber

Lake Tahoe

Topic Author's Reply - Dec 3, 2012 - 01:52am PT

Sal,

Good to hear you're eyeing Woodfords again. Unfor I can't do tomorrow (looks like only partly sunny anyways, via point forecast) but let's get on it !! next sunny weather break as I've been wanting to get together a long time now. Are high temps required? Hell no. Because winter side is all south facing and when hit by the sun in these alcoves she gets warm even at 45.

Now of course a tour is going to cost you later this spring though - I'm thinking a partner - adventurous, hard-driving - either at the Hulk, Keeler or at this Angel Wings spectacle.

Next sunny weather, I'll PM you.

Maybe you can get out weekdays also.

P.S. I discovered ClimbTech (thanks again BT), and ordered bolts, hangers and quick links from them just last week. It was a good deal.

http://forecast.weather.gov/MapClick.php?lat=38.78781013665601&lon=-119.80865478515625

Next weekend forecasted sunny, maybe.

kennyt

climber

Woodfords,California

Dec 3, 2012 - 10:38am PT

I,love to spend my extra money on metolius hangers and expensive bolts.

Sal, there is more "plush"free camping than you could even imagine a stones throw away from the canyon

kennyt

climber

Woodfords,California

Dec 3, 2012 - 07:32pm PT

Dan, what route are you on in the above photo?

Footloose

Trad climber

Lake Tahoe

Topic Author's Reply - Dec 3, 2012 - 08:51pm PT

Chim,

Didn't make it to Woodfords but the clearing in Carson Valley today was impressive...

Next time you come through, I'll introduce you to one of my favorite local workout crags...

I know you'd enjoy this one...

Did you make it out to Kirkwood? what's the snow condition now up there?

Jebus, get strong, next spring we'll swing, woohoo!

kennyt

climber

Woodfords,California

Dec 3, 2012 - 09:01pm PT

One of my favorite workout spots, I need to get up there!

Footloose

Trad climber

Lake Tahoe

Topic Author's Reply - Dec 3, 2012 - 10:05pm PT

Yeah, Ron, I knew posting that pic to the post might cause some confusion. I just wanted to stir the juices regarding bolting and what not. But the Jobs Peak expedition is still on, of course just have to wait out the season or the weather now. In the meantime, there is Woodfords and Carson Valley Sentinel to keep me fit.

You've been there, to CVS? How cool is that? Where haven't you been, ha! Never noticed any pins but I do have a pretty killer rope solo setup on Sunny Delight for sunny seasonal days like today. You're more than welcome to come by and have a go on it. Better than Dino Rock, yes. Better than that Prison Hill Crag, yes. Better than Washoe Boulders, yes. I do think you'd be impressed!

In fact, got a bit of a sunburn today. :)

One of my favorite workout spots

KT, we have much in common!

bergbryce

Mountain climber

California

Dec 3, 2012 - 10:44pm PT

KWood was working on it's own definition of a $hit show this morning.
Not a single chair was loading until 10:15 and by then a rather large gathering had amassed at the base of chairs 5 and 6. % started running and the line grew as people bailed on 6 for 5. I think 6 started moving just as we decided to bail, probably around 11:30 or so.

The snow off trail wasn't that great, at least bottom of the mt. Skiable breakable (shudder) crust. I hate that word, but that's what it was. But not total tail grabbing, nearly impossible to ski breakable, you could turn on it, but it wasn't very good.

Did not hang out to find out if the high stuff ever got open. Congrats to those who stuck it out and maybe got some good skiing in.
It was kind of a disappointing day.

Kirkwood has an impressive amount of snow on the ground for early December however.

Footloose

Trad climber

Lake Tahoe

Topic Author's Reply - Dec 4, 2012 - 04:32pm PT

wml,

Here's the coordinates: 39.114912,-119.800251
There is a 30 minute approach to the CV Sentinel.

It works for me (1) because I'm local, (2) because it's right next to my running circuit. (I run to it, hop on Sunny Delight or Winters Haven, climb, descend, run some more. Some days, this is heaven on earth.)

Hope this helped. Maybe come spring, we'll get a chance to meet at Wordfords or something. I hear you like the high sierra endeavors as well. Any friend of the hs is a friend of mine. Happy climbing!

EDIT No, not true!
Those must be the coordinates to the brothel next to Ron's workplace, ha!!
Hang on, testing...

Trailhead: 39.091835, -119.805543
Sentinel: 39.102073, -119.815650

EDIT Actually, the first set of coordinates are to Dinosaur Rock.

Footloose

Trad climber

Lake Tahoe

Topic Author's Reply - Dec 4, 2012 - 05:11pm PT

Haha, might be old-school then, Ron.

Sunny Delight is 5.9+ or 5.10, depending on variation.
Winter's Haven, a short crack climb to climber's left, is 5.10.

Both likely to give a good pump to the 5.9 climber new to the site.
Drop on in next sunny weather you have Dinosaur Rock on your mind and I'll show.

P.s.

Recall The Left Seam at Dinosaur Rock. 10a (according to Carville), I don't know? But Sunny Delight is MORE than comparable in length and difficulty. Plus, it's in the sun in the winter noon on.

P.S. I'll have to revisit DR with the Carville Guide in hand to make sense of the route names. Now I'm confused. But SD is more than comparable to the two most popular routes on the main face facing the road, best way to say it.