Woodfords Canyon

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Messages 1681 - 1700 of total 2060 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
T H

Boulder climber
extraordinaire
Nov 18, 2013 - 04:17am PT
Hours ago ...
Credit: T H
Credit: T H
Chim-Chim

climber
Nov 18, 2013 - 12:01pm PT
Twas a bright night. Looks like a daytime photo. Dank
Jebus H Bomz

climber
Peavine Basecamp
Nov 18, 2013 - 01:42pm PT
Anybody have an actual topo or description of Hand of God. Thing's been giving me a hard on for several years now. Chim's topo is sort of decipherable, but not really? Rap off (one/two ropes)? Walk off? Looking at doing that in the near future. How about a free preview from your upcoming guidebook, Chim? I'll give a TR of my success/failure, plug your upcoming book, we all come up smelling like roses.
Laine

Trad climber
Reno, NV
Nov 18, 2013 - 03:07pm PT
Had a great time in at Wood Hood this weekend! Did Yellow Fin via the Yellow Tail start (also climbed the original start in the chimney behind the bush). Both great options to start the route, thought Yellow Tail was a bit harder and more fun. Note a piece of the corner in the wide down low on Yellow Tail is going to break off someday, might consider taking a proactive approach on it.
Yellow Tail goes up a right facing corner to the roof &#40;left side o...
Yellow Tail goes up a right facing corner to the roof (left side of pic). The original start (chimney to double hand cracks) is behind the bush. Is this correct?
Credit: Laine
Jebus - we rapped HoG with a single 70 (60 would work no prob). Pretty much any approach pitch will work. The 11a pitch (p3) looks f'ing classick and very sustained. We TR'd the last pitch of HoG after we did Y.F., and it is hands down the best single pitch of finger locking goodness I've done at the fords. Get on it! (I have an annotated topo I could send ya)
A. Hamburg eating some tasty Yellow Tail
A. Hamburg eating some tasty Yellow Tail
Credit: Laine
Looking up pitch 3 of Yellow Fin.
Looking up pitch 3 of Yellow Fin.
Credit: Laine
The A man crushing 10c after a 10 month hiatus!
The A man crushing 10c after a 10 month hiatus!
Credit: Laine
Also did some fun 5.8 in the gulley left of Y.F. and it is a great warm up with just a bit of looseness in the middle and tasty hand jams at the top. Dan - what's the name on this one?
A fun 5.8 hand crack chimney warm up.
A fun 5.8 hand crack chimney warm up.
Credit: Laine
Chim-Chim

climber
Nov 18, 2013 - 03:46pm PT
Laine, the name of the climb you ask about is Two Lips. The 5.9 flair to the left is called The Brain Bucket. After the initial flair and double Hand crack, traverse right, under the roof(some back cleaning required) Pull some roof moves (left of the chimney section of Two Lips), then up the poorly protected slab then up the final thin hand section of Two Lips 5.10d. Bomz I've had the topo cleaned up, but I din't have a file to post, my graphic Designer has the updated file. I owe him some money and I recently got my girlfriend's $3700 dollar Kona Mt. bike stolen :( A couple financial setbacks have me a bit stressed, as I'm receiving alot of pressure for the guide to be finished. That said if you can locate the first pitch I can type a detailed narrative for you. Dank
Laine where exactly is the loose rock? Also a seventy meter rope is mandatory to rap of Weak Stick the final rappel to the base, unless you sketch down to the anchor above the first pitch of HOG.
Laine

Trad climber
Reno, NV
Nov 18, 2013 - 04:01pm PT
Thanks Dan. Bummer to hear about the financial woes (nothing worse than a thief). Hopefully all your good Woodfords karma will help see you thru this mess. And don't let all us wankers (myself definitely included) who keep asking about the guide, get you stressed my friend. I actually enjoy the shroud of mystery some of the routes have and word of mouth descriptions. Make finally sending them more of an accomplishment.

Anyway, hats off to you, Mark Bauer, Kenny Thompson, Ryan Curry, and all the many others who have contributed to the quality routes I enjoy so much. Top notch work!
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Relic MilkEye and grandpoobah of HBRKRNH
Nov 18, 2013 - 04:05pm PT
Interesting to see the fire scars still obvious on the lower reaches of the granite. Nothing like 60 mph winds to sear granite. Sucks about the thievery Dan,, i have no mercy for that. If you have a pic, ill keep a look out down here - only a couple of shops in CC. And the pawn shops..;-)
i'm gumby dammit

Sport climber
da ow
Nov 18, 2013 - 08:18pm PT
bummer about the bike. here's to hoping they bring it into the ltd for a tuneup.

went to a rarely visited anymore section at the fords today. started up what I thought was Tangerine but was stymied shortly after this by rat shyt everywhere
Tangerine?
Tangerine?
Credit: i'm gumby dammit

so i moved over a little where it was dirty but not shitty
Belay bitch
Belay bitch
Credit: i'm gumby dammit

Credit: i'm gumby dammit
Jebus H Bomz

climber
Peavine Basecamp
Nov 18, 2013 - 08:28pm PT
I'd appreciate the topo, laine. The words too, dan. Thanks, guys.

Sorry to hear about the bike too. I know how that feels.
Laine

Trad climber
Reno, NV
Nov 19, 2013 - 06:23pm PT
Jebus - I emailed you my chicken scratch overtop Chim's topo. With his last few comments and your previous trips there, you should be good.

Laine where exactly is the loose rock?
Dan - I felt a piece of the right side corner of Yellow Tail begin to separate. It is down low in the wide section maybe a foot or two below the pinch point. I was stemming and liebacking it and heard/felt the rock beginning to separate. At that time I noticed a slight existing fracture on the face and thought I may have made it worse. Hopefully it's nothing.
T Hocking

Trad climber
Redding, Ca
Nov 19, 2013 - 06:39pm PT
Laine and Gumby,
Thanks for the pics!

Dan,
Bummer on the bike,
had that happen to me as well.

See ya at Woodfest II

Tad
Chim-Chim

climber
Nov 19, 2013 - 07:00pm PT
Laine, I think you may have confused the first pitch of Yellow Tail with the first pitch of Topographic Oceans, (there is a loose rock down low before the pinch). Did you climb the corner to bolt protected face leading to a roof and left-leaning crack above? If so that was the original climb to a low bolt anchor with some tat. That climb T.O. continues to the left of Yellow Fin T.O follows a left-facing corner that lies above the tat anchor, and faces west. ItContinues for two more pitched along a crack system left of Yellow Fin The third pitch 180 foot 5.11a is unbelieveable. Thanks for all the condolences about the bike you'all.
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Relic MilkEye and grandpoobah of HBRKRNH
Nov 19, 2013 - 07:29pm PT
Gumby, the only tangerine in woodfords i know of is a short little crack to roof to crack 5.6/7 at the lost cabin crag. That doesnt seem to be it..
Laine

Trad climber
Reno, NV
Nov 19, 2013 - 07:36pm PT
I didn't noticed it when I led it but I followed the second time and noticed it. Thought it was Yellow Tail when we chatted.
Credit: Laine
i'm gumby dammit

Sport climber
da ow
Nov 19, 2013 - 07:40pm PT
i was at the lost cabin. when i saw the single bolt at the top of this one my thought was that it wasn't far enough down the wall to be tangerine according to your topo. but i didn't see anything else between this corner and the led zepp arete (that one was obvious). i wasn't looking too hard though as it was tough enough moving along the wall since it's all fairly overgrown now.
Chim-Chim

climber
Nov 19, 2013 - 07:42pm PT
That's what I thought sorry for the confusion. I'll remove that loose rock on Friday, weather permitting. Bomz I'll type up a narrative for the h Hog route to supplement Laine's topo. I'll write it up in the am.
Jebus H Bomz

climber
Peavine Basecamp
Nov 21, 2013 - 06:23am PT
Cool, Dan! Sorry, just getting back to this thread. Work happens.

Was psyched to try it out Friday, but it's looking like crap. Maybe early next week with my erstwhile, numero uno climbing partner. Damn climbers and their road trips!
Chim-Chim

climber
Nov 21, 2013 - 12:13pm PT
Bomz, looks like it may be crap on Friday but here's the narrative anyway...
Hand of God (Regular start) begins down and right from the last picture that Laine posted. A lone bolt twelve feet up or so, begins the fun.
Hand of God 5.11c Pro. RP's, wires, TCU's and cams to 3"(2) each/2" to 3"
Pitch 1: Start down and right form the start of Topographic Oceans (Laine's last photo post) Climb past a bolt and some cracks to a large ledge below an arching crack leading to a downward pointing spike. Climb the arch past the "stalactite" into a shallow right-facing corner. Wobble past two bolts along a thin seam to an anchor at a small stance.
Pitch 2: Move the belay 15 ft. up and to the left to a sandy ledge and belay in a solid crack 1" to 1 1/2". Go up the solid rock above the sandy belay ledge, then walk up the loose slope above attempting not to dislodge the rocks along the way. Aim for a detached flake system on the right edge of the slab that leads to an obvious roof guarding the start of the beautiful, white, left-leaning corner. Climb the detached crack system on the right edge of the nice slab, go left below a loose-looking block,across the slab 5.8r to a shallow crack on the left side of the slab. Go straight up and under a small tree to a two-bolt anchor. 215 Ft.
Pitch 3: Go down and right across the slab (watch for rope drag), then up a left-leaning flake, an over-handing hand crack to an alcove. Go right, turn the roof and belay at a stance below the final corner. 5.11b 70 Ft.
Pitch 4: Jam, stem, and lie-back the incredible corner to a chain anchor.
Descend by rappelling the last two pitches, then walk down to an anchor down and left from the small pinyon pine tree. Directly below a nice bolted slab. A 115 foot rappel get you to the base.
Several first pitch variation can be climbed to avoid the crux first pitch. Have fun, Dank

Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Relic MilkEye and grandpoobah of HBRKRNH
Nov 21, 2013 - 12:30pm PT
hehehehee,, muwaaahahahahaaaaa snort, guffaw.....
Jebus H Bomz

climber
Peavine Basecamp
Nov 21, 2013 - 04:10pm PT
Thanks, Dan. Will check it out soon. Put me down for one of your guidebook too. It will be nice to have a resource worth buying that finally addresses the majority of the development in the canyon. I have a feeling the golden era has not yet even arrived there!
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