Woodfords Canyon

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Messages 1461 - 1480 of total 2060 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
Laine

Trad climber
Reno, NV
Sep 7, 2013 - 10:00pm PT
Thanks guys. Spent another day scrubbing and rope soloed the route. I'd say it clocks in at a mellow 5.10. Steep but with good jams and rests. Pro to #2 with a set of nuts will do. Enjoy!
Jebus H Bomz

climber
Peavine Basecamp
Sep 7, 2013 - 10:04pm PT
Thought that was you, Laine! Good work you're putting in there.
Laine

Trad climber
Reno, NV
Sep 7, 2013 - 10:09pm PT
Thanks Jebus- I'm not sure but I think you were on the 5.11 just right of Dr. Sleep. Dr. Sleep only has 1 bolt then traverse left under a roof to the chains.
Jebus H Bomz

climber
Peavine Basecamp
Sep 7, 2013 - 10:16pm PT
Okay, this one didn't do that traverse. It went up that thin double crack system up high. Had two bolts. Pretty fun climbing, a little adventurous.

Nice! Little ego fluff for me on the os, but we were thinking more like a 5.10d? Dunno.
Chim-Chim

climber
Sep 7, 2013 - 10:56pm PT
LongArm Of The Aug, 5.whatever was a bit more spicy before the the first bolt went in after the F.A. damn retro-bolters:) Edit Thanks for bringing in Leah Glasses your a true Gent!
Laine

Trad climber
Reno, NV
Sep 8, 2013 - 01:05am PT
Next time do cartwheel and numb bunion, Zach. Those are my 2 faves up there.
Jebus H Bomz

climber
Peavine Basecamp
Sep 8, 2013 - 08:16am PT
Thanks for the info, Chim. You're the FA?

Cool, Laine, will check those out. We definitely noticed those climbs on the way up there.
Chim-Chim

climber
Sep 8, 2013 - 11:15am PT
Bomz, si senor. Couldn't complete the double crack finish without the bolt... took three twenty footers, then blammed in a "bristler". Convinced Mark B to add the lower bolt, not particulaly hard climbing down there but a fall would be real bad. Dan K.
Scott Thelen

Trad climber
Truckee, Ca
Sep 8, 2013 - 12:44pm PT
Going back up on tues. Maybe work on the Orange Face.

Laine

Trad climber
Reno, NV
Sep 8, 2013 - 12:58pm PT
Scott, do you approach your climbs from the top? I soloed some 5th class vegetation BS to get to them and then over to the top of the green tongue wall. It was a sketchy adventurous thrashfest with a pig in tow. Not gonna do that again.
Scott Thelen

Trad climber
Truckee, Ca
Sep 8, 2013 - 02:23pm PT
Going in from the top sucks just as bad.

It's time for cloud walker to get bolted or the climb to the left needs to get cleaned and climbed. That would be the best approach.
BurnRockBurn

climber
South of Black Rock City (CC,NV)
Sep 8, 2013 - 05:57pm PT
I finally have a little time off Tues-Thurs and if I can hook up with chim we could bolt up cloud walker.

Hows yours schedule Chim?

Shawn
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal
Sep 8, 2013 - 06:01pm PT
You can use those hangers i got to ya a while back lol!;-D
BurnRockBurn

climber
South of Black Rock City (CC,NV)
Sep 8, 2013 - 06:14pm PT
Ron Ill use some just for you......with a little pig juice on em.
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal
Sep 8, 2013 - 06:15pm PT
now yur tawkin.. Hows the new married life man!?
Jebus H Bomz

climber
Peavine Basecamp
Sep 8, 2013 - 06:54pm PT
Bomz, si senor. Couldn't complete the double crack finish without the bolt... took three twenty footers, then blammed in a "bristler". Convinced Mark B to add the lower bolt, not particulaly hard climbing down there but a fall would be real bad. Dan K.


Wow! Yeah, it gets pretty full on in that section. Was the crack as clean as it is now up there? It's pretty clean now up there but down low there's some stuff needs pruning.

It really doesn't look that long from the base but is the FULL 35 meters. Knew I bought that 70m for more than just OOTD!

The lower bolt is appreciated too. My problem after that bolt was I had to climb a ways to get first psychological pro (a nut behind a hunka rock that would probably just tear) and then the 1" piece. I didn't bring a 4" that would have protected it perfectly a ways before. Oh well.

Anyhow, good route, I hope it gets popular to clean it up a little better.
BurnRockBurn

climber
South of Black Rock City (CC,NV)
Sep 8, 2013 - 09:10pm PT
Ron
Married life is great. She puts up with my sh#t so I cant complain. Loves to rock and ice climb and loves to go rockhounding with me so I cant complain. If you have any secret rockhounding spots Im all ears.
I do wish I could stop her from her bad habit of buying purses and shoes though.........although she is turning into a gear whore as well.......but it has to match!!!!!!!!! ahahahhah all biners have to match etc.
Shes great
Shawn

Tenaya
Tenaya
Credit: BurnRockBurn
Credit: BurnRockBurn
Damn phone turns the pics????? Wtf
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal
Sep 8, 2013 - 09:15pm PT
HHahahaa! You make a great couple imo! And thats just called idiosyncratic and the trick is to syncronize the idiosyncratic, and then youll be onto something lol! But WTF do 'eye' know!!! Rock hounding? Ever been on top of Montgomery pass Kneevader?
BurnRockBurn

climber
South of Black Rock City (CC,NV)
Sep 8, 2013 - 09:23pm PT
Never heard of it. PM me if its secret Looking for anything
This is what I'm working on now
Agate and petrified peat bog
Agate and petrified peat bog
Credit: BurnRockBurn
Wyoming fish fossil I'm prepping out now.
Wyoming fish fossil I'm prepping out now.
Credit: BurnRockBurn
Chim-Chim

climber
Sep 9, 2013 - 11:18am PT
Bomz twas filthy... looking good now though. Shawn tuesday looks good sash and I are going up this afternoon for a short sesh. Laine there's an easy 5.5 to the right of Green Tongue that is an alternative to G.T. or the heious bushy approach. Scott hopefully we can meet up tomarrow., Tues. Dan Bringing power, no hardware though.
edit Scott, the climb to the left of Cloudwalker is called Dust Storm... 5.8 pro to 4". Start up a face crack, climb an overlap then follow left-facing corner past small pine tree. A small bulge leads to the dirty leaning crack which is followed to the chain anchor. Better than it looks and cleaner too!
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