Woodfords Canyon

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Messages 1461 - 1480 of total 2003 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
alltalk

climber
Berkeley
Aug 15, 2013 - 10:39am PT
chim chim, have you heard of any one checking out the stuff on the next terrace above cloud walker? It looks like some potential lines up there, but I'm not sure how you'd get up there. Maybe adventure pitch up the stuff to the left of the rock scar?

Or am I thinking cloud walker is a different route? I saw something with shiny chains up hill (east of the rock scar) in a narrow gully opposite a really clean looking corner crack and a sport bolted face. These two climbs were especially on the backside of the OOTDs feature.

Either way, if you have names grades for any of those routes it'd be much appreciated. I love to explore up there and knowing what's been done is always helpful.

Casey
Chim-Chim

climber
Aug 15, 2013 - 11:03am PT
Casey, I've done two climbs up there... brutally filthy. Up and left of Cloudwalker is the Ent 5.10d if you look closely chains can be seen below a small pine tree. The start is atop a giant boulder that is approach by climbing The Green Tongue(the climb on the other side of the gully from the corner climb and bolted short face climb) then heading up and left up a swath of trees to the left of the aformentioned large boulder. Scott Thelen a buddy of Kennyt placed a couple of anchors on tha wall directly above Cloudwalker, but I don't know anything about his activities first hand. Check it out and let me know! Dan
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal
Aug 15, 2013 - 11:04am PT
Theres a LOT more to the canyon than those 2 areas lol! Spread yur wingzzzz!;-)
alltalk

climber
Berkeley
Aug 15, 2013 - 11:12am PT
Ron,

I'm thirsting for new routes and willing to bushwhack, but it's be nice to know where to concentrate my efforts! Please point the way! Your topo of high energy area indicates that there is a nice wall on the back side facing westish. Any more info?!
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal
Aug 15, 2013 - 11:20am PT
To the east of OOTD wall, there is a buttress. Chim and i were looking at it during the woodfest . Its about 1000 feet or so east of OOTD -near the same level. It LOOKED like a 2 to 3 pitch affair. It seemed to have possibility.. It sets alone,, lonely and in need of some luv.

The other somewhat virgin area of GREAT possibility lies across the highway -upstream- on the Orange wall areas over to whites wall. In this thread (i think) ,, KennyT put up some nice photos of those areas. As it cools for fall, this should be looked at imho. There are only three known routes between whites to orange wall with COUNTLESS cracks roofs and such waiting on orange wall for instance. COUNTLESS did i mention!?
Laine

Trad climber
Reno, NV
Aug 15, 2013 - 11:22am PT
Stand in the middle of Hwy 88 and spin around till you are dizzy, then stop and hike in the direction you are facing and I promise you will find your climb.
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal
Aug 15, 2013 - 11:24am PT
heheheeee,, THAT will also work...
alltalk

climber
Berkeley
Aug 15, 2013 - 11:26am PT
Ron and Laine thanks for the info! Unfortunately (or fortunately) I'll be in Spain for the fall betraying my inner tradie by clipping evil bolts under the Mediterranean sun. But I'll definitely pass on the info and continue my quest when I return in January.
i'm gumby dammit

Sport climber
da ow
Aug 15, 2013 - 12:00pm PT
mantener a Espaņa negrita!
Chim-Chim

climber
Aug 15, 2013 - 12:04pm PT
Credit: Chim-Chim
Salamanizer

Trad climber
The land of Fruits & Nuts!
Aug 15, 2013 - 02:20pm PT
Stand in the middle of Hwy 88 and spin around till you are dizzy, then stop and hike in the direction you are facing and I promise you will find your climb.


That is how I feel every time I enter the canyon. That place is rather confusing.

The onsight of Power surge wasn't that impressive. Rather, it was pretty grim. If I'd have known it was harder than .11c I'd have given up and not allow my ego to propel me further up that crunch fest. It was the second route of the day. Afterward, I sat in the shade feeling like I just got worked in an offwidth, drank a beer and was done for the day.
Jebus H Bomz

climber
Peavine Basecamp
Aug 15, 2013 - 02:28pm PT
Yeah, Sal, confusing us how I see it sometimes too. It's quite the hike for dispersed cragging lots of times, but it is great in the winter, satisfies the FA bug for those who want to hoof it, and the cragging really is often quite good. I don't think it'll ever be a main climbing destination for some of those reasons, but that isn't a bad thing.
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal
Aug 15, 2013 - 03:52pm PT
Yur an animal Sal. There was a 13/13+ project crack left of power surge- right of lightning dream arete. Dont know if it was ever completed.
the czar

climber
meyers, ca.
Aug 23, 2013 - 09:25am PT
Bottomfeeder, chim chim rising out of the filth... photo by d.clock.
Credit: the czar
Laine

Trad climber
Reno, NV
Aug 23, 2013 - 11:17am PT
FInally got that climb cleaned up, eh? Nice work.
Chim-Chim

climber
Aug 24, 2013 - 01:57pm PT
Thanks Laine, it's well protected, although it doesn't look like that from below. Two purple master cams or blue aliens protect the crux. It's fun and exciting... 5.10+. Dan
kennyt

climber
Woodfords,California
Aug 24, 2013 - 03:14pm PT
It was smokey there today! but fun climbing none the less
kennyt

climber
Woodfords,California
Aug 28, 2013 - 06:42am PT
Dan, climbing this weekend? I hear the smoke may clear

chim chim, have you heard of any one checking out the stuff on the next terrace above cloud walker?

there are three sets of anchors and Scott Thelen started cleaning them
Laine

Trad climber
Reno, NV
Aug 28, 2013 - 12:44pm PT
I'm planning on getting out to the Fords one day this weekend. Hope to see all your smiling faces.
Chim-Chim

climber
Aug 28, 2013 - 03:36pm PT
Kenny, Laine, we'll be out there on Sunday hope to see you there. Dan
Messages 1461 - 1480 of total 2003 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
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