Woodfords Canyon

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Footloose

Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 25, 2014 - 10:33am PT
Laine, remind me.

You said you once rapped the dihedral of HOG? I imagine it was challenging to get to the lower rap station without directionals? Or did you have a partner who was already down (who set directionals for his rap) help guide your rap? Wondering, as the plumb line of the pitch goes off the side pretty quick.
kennyt

Trad climber
Oregon
Feb 25, 2014 - 10:36am PT
How's it going bill? More pics! Looks like good weather down there just f*#kin rains here.
Footloose

Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 25, 2014 - 10:50am PT
Kenny!!!!!11

Still rainy there, eh? Well consider it even more incentive to visit here ASAP! :)

I'll gather up a couple more pics...
Jebus H Bomz

climber
Peavine Basecamp
Feb 25, 2014 - 11:29am PT
No directionals needed to rap HOG, footloose.
Footloose

Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 25, 2014 - 11:40am PT
No directionals needed to rap HOG...

Surprised to hear this, Jebus, but good to know. So you were (are) able to just friction traverse and keep yourself in the corner, huh? all the way down to rap station above roof huh? Maybe that was exceptional skillz on your part? Maybe a better man climber than me, lol!!

My goal was to rope solo the pitch, so this might have biased my thinking regarding use of directionals, maybe.

Dan, any route names to share around your slung trees, either the pine in picture above or mountain mahogany way up top. I rope soloed this east-facing face too, for a warm-up. Like.

Next time up, I'd like to try variations around the HOG dihedral pitch. I'd love to go today, weather again is awesome, but "at this age" I need a rest. :)
Jebus H Bomz

climber
Peavine Basecamp
Feb 25, 2014 - 11:48am PT
Friction traverse? You just rap it, no big deal. Easy peasy with a 70m. It's a plumb line pretty much. Maybe you swing slightly, but you aren't going off the side of anything.
Footloose

Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 25, 2014 - 11:58am PT
Interesting.

Okay, to be clear... If you set up your toprope off the anchors atop the dihedral pitch, it slides off climber's left within 30' or so (following its plumb line) over the wall and into gully. Right? Anyhow, that was my experience yesterday that prodded me to set directionals every 30' going down. Or maybe your friction was so little you didn't notice? Now I'm interested in rapping the route to pitch below the roof just to see! Rockclimbing, like!!

My sense of it...
Credit: Footloose

EDIT Yeah, I might have over-thought this, however.
When you're an over-the-hill 5.3d climber, it happens. :)
Jebus H Bomz

climber
Peavine Basecamp
Feb 25, 2014 - 12:05pm PT
Sure. We rapped the whole thing without directionals. You are overthinking this? Like I already said, you may have to swing a bit but it's no big deal.
Footloose

Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 25, 2014 - 12:09pm PT
Did you lead the dihedral pitch, Jebus? Did you free it? The roof? the thin fingers higher up? Let's get together with Laine and Dan and do it again next good weather!

Definitely 4 stars.

Perhaps my pic above is a bit tilted, too. :)

Credit: Footloose

Okay, I take it back. ;)

The Big Bad Wolf showing off its overhang.
The Big Bad Wolf showing off its overhang.
Credit: Footloose

Kenny, this crack looks like it could be fun...
Credit: Footloose
It lives just west and upward of Cat Scratch Fever.

Mr. Big showed me these a couple weeks ago. <br/>
Forgot the name of the c...
Mr. Big showed me these a couple weeks ago.
Forgot the name of the chimney to roof to crack route, 5.10 I think.
I think he told me it was Dan's FA. Fun. Protects well. Anchor atop.
Credit: Footloose
Jebus H Bomz

climber
Peavine Basecamp
Feb 25, 2014 - 12:39pm PT
Yeah, led the roof, followed the dihedral. I'd like to get together but don't see it happening for a while with my schedule, unfortunately.
Laine

Trad climber
Reno, NV
Feb 25, 2014 - 12:49pm PT
Footloose, you biggest issue TR'ing the roof pitch will be a swing from underneath the roof if you peel off before making it to the apex. Maybe set a directional about half way underneath (alternatively just don't fall).
Footloose

Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 25, 2014 - 01:02pm PT
We should distinguish between the "roof pitch" and "dihedral pitch" shouldn't we? - as long as we're (I'm) overthinking this, lol!

There's an anchor at the Mt Mahogany Tree (where I left my boots and you belayed me to the gully), there's a second chain anchor 6' or so above the roof, and of course the third chain anchor atop the dihedral.

Were I to lead the route, I'd belay at the Mt Mahogany anchor for the roof goodness; and then I'd belay above the roof at (rap) anchor (since it's there) to get a good view of leader on dihedral goodness. Of course I suppose you could lead over the roof and the dihedral in one shebang but then belayer as spectator, I think, is robbed of any dihedral "entertainment."

Alright, tmi.

Excited to get on these sections (subpitches, whatever) again. Next time I might bring my gym rope, too, so we can play on just the roof segment, I just cut it, it's 35m. Should work.

Looks fun.  On the approach to the Big Bad Wolf.
Looks fun. On the approach to the Big Bad Wolf.
Credit: Footloose

btw, the forecast blew it for today, as well. Not a cloud in the sky here in Carson Valley.

P.S. Jeebus, you work too much is all. ;)
Jebus H Bomz

climber
Peavine Basecamp
Feb 25, 2014 - 10:34pm PT
I do at that, footloose. Dastardly obligations!

I also work many weekends, but I would be game for another run up HoG when time frees up.

Btw, that roof pitch on it would be the harder to TR solo. I'd want to pad that lip pretty well!
Footloose

Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 26, 2014 - 12:11pm PT
We might be channeling each other, Dan! because I was just about to post up to ask you for the route names, if any, on the east-facing wall. But the east-facing wall I had in mind (and that I solo TRed) is of the HOG gulley, not the HOG tower. (Like the "tower" name, btw.) Here's a pic...

HOG area.  Photo taken from HOG corner.
HOG area. Photo taken from HOG corner.
Credit: Footloose

Crappy pic, washed out detail, due to dust in the lens system but it shows the east-facing wall I TRed for a warm-up and a bit of the mt mahogany on top I TRed from.

I did notice the bolts atop the HOG tower. Decided to save exploring those for next time. I think the route or routes below them are what you're referencing, is that right? Tell us about them.

It's a shame the weather has turned, once again...
http://forecast.weather.gov/MapClick.php?lat=38.78459874169886&lon=-119.81449127197266#.Uw4iHIVnhOq

I have time to climb this season, let's get out, would like more show n tell in the area.

Inspiration for next sunny day...
Credit: Footloose

Were I to TR solo the corner again, I still think I'd set directionals just for their convenience, whose potential benefit you might be able to see from above photo.

Dan, who has the FA on HOG roof and corner?
And, again, very nice work, thoughtful too, on the anchors there.
Footloose

Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 26, 2014 - 12:29pm PT
set for a high line slack line

Wow! So did anything come of this? What a neat thing to do!

And any established routes or names of routes on the wall in the pic I posted. At this time, it's more a blur to me because it's dirty up there, I was concerned about potential rock fall as I was pending / swinging back n forth and because I had HOG in mind for entree. But I remember thinking it was good.

So to be clear, is there anything down there then, on the east face of HOG Tower? In other words, were we to rap off those bolts (slackline bolts) anyway would we end up in any interesting area, eg at the base of routes?

Mystery anchor.  Picture taken from atop HOG Tower.
Mystery anchor. Picture taken from atop HOG Tower.
Credit: Footloose

Route(s) below this anchor?
I think Mark B and I were heading here when we got distracted by something else.
Footloose

Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 26, 2014 - 12:58pm PT
Cool, Dan. Thanks.

Yeah, "Sissy Sue" rings a bell. I enjoyed that climb, fun little roof pull that protects well.

Mushroom Cap. LOL. If it's the same, I've been calling that big rock formation up there on the corner, Cap Stone. LOL!

Capstone.  Perhaps different from Mushroom Cap. LOL.
Capstone. Perhaps different from Mushroom Cap. LOL.
Credit: Footloose

I'm heading to the gym in a couple hours, I can comp if you show up. Short notice, I know.

Gotta stay strong, Footloose needs muscle to pull that roof next sunny day!!!
the czar

climber
meyers, ca.
Feb 27, 2014 - 08:36pm PT
chim cha! havent seen you in awhile, how goes it? walked up there on monday afternoon and saw two folks, just exercise and lookin at stuff. holler! skiing next few days, later.
Footloose

Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 28, 2014 - 10:13am PT
Dan, thanks for all the info.

The "Cap" in the above photo is not on the HOG tower. I took this picture as I rounded the "Western Front" (my own playful moniker) to the "Great Drainage" (another) you would take to get to The Big Bad Wolf and also access to the top of HOG.

So I gather this "Cap Stone" is different from "Mushroom Cap." Not that surprised, really. So much rock and changing perspective, no wonder the occasional confusion!

Snowing big chunks here, right now. Can't wait for climbing weather again!
portent

Social climber
your mom's house
Mar 7, 2014 - 07:35pm PT
How's it looking down there fellas?
Footloose

Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 7, 2014 - 09:09pm PT
Twas a little more HOG action today...
Hand of God_dihedral pitch_7mar2014
Hand of God_dihedral pitch_7mar2014
Credit: Footloose

"If you rest you rust." :)
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