Discussion Topic |
|
This thread has been locked |
T?S
Trad climber
Reno, NV
|
|
Hahaha, awesome F.A. story. Without that bolt, .11a would be a quite the bag! And gear in the undercling?? Yikes! The bolt seems impossibly high when you are struggling to leave the lieback of the arrowhead feature, but it turns out to be perfectly placed once you commit.
As far as the yellow fin start, I don't know if I would call it a chimney start, they took the most direct line to get established on the face with the bolt below the mini-roof/bulge. I dont have a pic of it to point out...
|
|
T?S
Trad climber
Reno, NV
|
|
Oh okay, ya then we were definitely on Topo. I thought the Topo Ocean first pitch was just climber's left of the the mini-roof/bulge, which is a large chimney, and leads to the same anchors.
And Dan I would be down to help with the guidebook in any way I could. You can PM me at tyson.waldron@gmail.com
|
|
Laine
Trad climber
Reno, NV
|
|
|
Feb 22, 2015 - 09:24am PT
|
Beautiful day at the fords yesterday. We ran into several first timers up at second alcove. Here's a few shots of Tyson and Kenny sending walking Jack. Next we all worked for the RP on Arrowhead but it wasn't in the cards. Though Tyson was close on his second attempt.
|
|
T?S
Trad climber
Reno, NV
|
|
|
Feb 22, 2015 - 10:09pm PT
|
A couple cool ones from the weekend....
|
|
portent
Social climber
your mom's house
|
|
Woodfords this weekend? How's it looking down there?
|
|
portent
Social climber
your mom's house
|
|
Thanks Dan.
|
|
Alpamayo
Trad climber
Davis, CA
|
|
Finally got to check this place out with a couple of Reno folks. Got on Perfect Lieback, Whisker Biscuit, Quoia the Destroya, I Be Jammin, and a hanging TR of Walking Jack. Pretty awesome climbing!
|
|
i'm gumby dammit
Sport climber
da ow
|
|
^Whiskerbiscuit?
We adventured today. Were heading to the tiers but arrived to find them shady and snowy so we dropped back down one set of cliffs and found something dirty. The crux of the line came after I cleaned it and had to downclimb the snow filled gully to the left
By the time that was done the First Tier had had it's share of sun and was back in the shade with the base still in the snow so we headed to the apron.
After backing off I climbed the crack out of picture to the left so as to retrieve my gear. Who knew you could just scramble up to the balcony from the other side
|
|
Laine
Trad climber
Reno, NV
|
|
In that first pic it looks like the line has some sporty pro.
What do u think it goes at?
|
|
i'm gumby dammit
Sport climber
da ow
|
|
Wasn't too difficult. Maybe 5.8.
He removed some pro both at the bottom left (because of my position in the talus snow mix) and just below the roof/corner (for rope drag).
The face had some small to medium loose blocks and the dark corner and summit had some very big ones.
|
|
Laine
Trad climber
Reno, NV
|
|
Cool, and a new route is born. This is on the trail to the Tiers? Is the walk off easy?
|
|
i'm gumby dammit
Sport climber
da ow
|
|
Not easy. Currently snowy and slick with a 10' foot drop at the bottom (there's some placements though). Also thorny and willowy. There was a tree at the top to rappel from though but I had tossed the rope thinking the down climb would be a piece of cake.
Also it's not new. there was a tattered piece of webbing on the backside of the summit block Josh is on.
To the left out of pic there was also a fun looking crescent shaped flake to corner that ended up at the tree.
|
|
Hickicick
climber
NV
|
|
|
Mar 11, 2015 - 10:48am PT
|
Hey looking for a partner for saturday! I want to do a link up of Hand of God, Yellow Fin, and Topographic oceans before heading out of town for a week. If anyone's interested let me know! Call or shoot me a text 775-720-8195.
|
|
Laine
Trad climber
Reno, NV
|
|
|
Apr 27, 2015 - 09:47pm PT
|
Hey DanK, finally climbed that finger crack on the east face of The hand of God formation. Man that thing is stellar. Had 4 0.4 c4s and used them all.
Did a few short routes on the formation to the east of it as well. A stout 5.9 corner and another 5.11 off fingers corner thru a roof to chimney. Both pack a real punch. Can you rap to the ground from those climbs climber's right of the east face of HoG? We weren't sure so we climbed a splitter 5.7 back to the top of HoG and rapped the standard route.
|
|
T?S
Trad climber
Reno, NV
|
|
|
Apr 28, 2015 - 10:54pm PT
|
Photo bump of the above routes. All were really good.
What's the story on the awesome looking corner to the left of the .10c finger pitch?
|
|
Footloose
Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 29, 2015 - 07:57pm PT
|
Laine,
just saw your page at MP for Woodfords, Cloudburst Canyon.
That's an excellent writeup and description. Way to go. Glad
to read you guys are having good times out there!
"Ominous and famed." I love it!!
Love the organizational makeover for Woodfords too.
Not sure when that came about exactly but it sure makes
a lot more sense now!
Nice to see OoTD still pulling a unanimous 4 star rating.
Who will be the first I wonder to give it three stars. HAHAHA!!!
|
|
T?S
Trad climber
Reno, NV
|
|
Boy, this thread sure feels lonely now...
What are the chances anyone has beta on The Lost World? Dan showed me a topo of it once, and spoke of some of the best rock in the canyon, but I never got up there.
...Thinking of making an investigatory assault on the area with a couple partners this weekend.
Or if anyone has a good way to reach Dan, I'd love to pick his brain for a few moments.
|
|
the czar
climber
meyers, ca.
|
|
Get ready for a hike to get up there!
|
|
T?S
Trad climber
Reno, NV
|
|
Ya, it looks like a mission, but am no stranger to big hikes in that canyon...
...At least the shady side isn't Kitty Litter....
With an alpine start and a team of three we should be able to lug enough water beer and food to make the conditions livable.
|
|
|
SuperTopo on the Web
|
Let us know!