BRIDWELL - Proofread PLEASE!

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Ihateplastic

Trad climber
It ain't El Cap, Oregon
Topic Author's Original Post - Feb 15, 2010 - 10:37pm PT
//EDIT: This is the FINAL list as of 2/18/10 at 12:10.//

This is a list compiled from the interwebs of Jim's major accomplishments. I know this stuff is repeated on several places across the tube but I am pulling it together for BridwellFest '10 and I want to make sure it represents what we believe to be THE HIGHLIGHTS of his career.

As with any writing assignment, an extra pair (or 20) of eyes helps avoid the, "How the hell did that happen!" typos.

So, I welcome comments, corrections, deletions, additions, etc. The ratings are as they were during the FA or FFA and may not be current as of today.

1961 - No Holds Barred - The Bird's First, First Ascent
1965 - Ahab - 5.10
1967 - FFA The Stovelegs - 5.10
1967 - East Face, Higher Cathedral Rock - VI, 5.10, A4
1971 - Abstract Corner 5.11d
1971 - Aquarian Wall - VI, 5.9, A4
1972 - Nabisco Wall - 5.11
1972 - Basket Case - 5.11
1973 - Hotline - 5.10, A1
1973 - Crucifix, 5.10, A2
1974 - Freestone - 5.11b
1974 - Good Book - 5.10d
1975 - NIAD
1975 - Pacific Ocean Wall - VI, 5.10, A5
1975 - FFA Free Blast - 5.11
1975 - Wailing Wall - 5.12
1976 - El Mocho - Southeast Pillar 5.10, A1
1976 - Mirage, VI, 5.9, A4+
1977 - Bushido - VI, 5.10, A4
1978 - Sea of Dreams - VI, 5.10, A5
1978 - Bob Locke Memorial Buttress - VI, 5.11b, A4
1979 - Compressor Route, Cerro Torre - VI, 5.10, A3
1981 - Zenyatta Mondatta - VI, 5.10, A5
1981 - The Dance of the Woo-Li Masters - VII, 5.10, A5
1982 - Pumori - 7,145 meters
1983 - Trans Borneo Crossing
1985 - Big Chill - VI, 5.10, A5
1988 - Exocet, Cerro Stanhardt - VI, 5.9, WI6
1988 - El Condor - VI, 5.11, A2
1989 - Shadows - VI, 5.10. A5
1992 - Eiger North Face
1998 - Heavy Metal and Tinker Toys - VI, 5.10, PDH
1998 - Experimental Earth - V, 5.10, A3
1999 - The Useless Emotion - VII, 5.9, WI4, A4
1999 - Oddysey - VI, 5.9, A4
2001 - The Beast Pillar - VII, 5.10, A5, WI4+, M6










Ihateplastic

Trad climber
It ain't El Cap, Oregon
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 15, 2010 - 11:44pm PT
Rock!... Am I missing something? Did I lleps the thread tit wrong? I donut thank sew.
Todd Gordon

Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
Feb 15, 2010 - 11:44pm PT
You forgot his Palm Springs chipped routes on that list....
jsb

Trad climber
Bay area
Feb 15, 2010 - 11:56pm PT
Hotline is grade III, not grade VI. Although, you can turn it into a grade V by trying to cross the river on the way back out when you really shouldn't.
flak

Social climber
confusion
Feb 15, 2010 - 11:58pm PT
has not held a job. No useful employment. fathered children out of marrage. failed to support those children with what most consider conventional life necesities,
Ihateplastic

Trad climber
It ain't El Cap, Oregon
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 15, 2010 - 11:59pm PT
Good catch... It was supposed to read IV since it was rated that on the FA. I might leave the IV out since it is not really pertinent to the route.

Thanks!

Ihateplastic

Trad climber
It ain't El Cap, Oregon
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 16, 2010 - 12:00am PT
Flak... you are not needed here.

EVERYONE: Please ignore this ignoramus whose penile length is not worthy of shite. Just pay attention to the OP.

goatboy smellz

climber
लघिमा
Feb 16, 2010 - 12:34am PT
His rating system is spot on and should not be overlooked.

NBD
NTB
PDH
DFU


How about Experimental Earth in Kolob Canyon or is that to Western?
Ihateplastic

Trad climber
It ain't El Cap, Oregon
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 16, 2010 - 12:36am PT
Goatboy... rating? year?
goatboy smellz

climber
लघिमा
Feb 16, 2010 - 12:53am PT
'98 V 5.10 A3
Piton Ron may chime in with the specifics, very proud line!
WBraun

climber
Feb 16, 2010 - 01:14am PT
Lucretia and Rik Reider did Muir trail with only blankets and eating roots and tubers :-)
Ihateplastic

Trad climber
It ain't El Cap, Oregon
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 16, 2010 - 01:26am PT
Kevin, again with my busy fingers!

Jim did too many walls so my fingers keep typing VI...

Originally Hotline was listed as IV but today it would warrant III.

I may just drop the III,IV,V rating on most climbs and only use it on the VI and VII walls. Less confusing.
Ihateplastic

Trad climber
It ain't El Cap, Oregon
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 16, 2010 - 01:27am PT
Locker... I don't want to be there the day Jim meets this boner!

Five hits: One hit to his face, one hit when he hits the floor, and three more hits for each stupid post he made.
GDavis

Social climber
SOL CAL
Feb 16, 2010 - 01:41am PT
I've seen like five lists of ascents by Bridwell, and each time there is new stuff that I didnt know about that blows my mind. Everest West ridge??? What, was that like as an aside?? that would DEFINE most climbers career! But on that list it kind of falls by the wayside, ahah!

Didn't he also do some 13's in Josh? Say what you will about bolted routes, but I've rapped past at least one route I know he's done, and it looked STOUT. Find me someone who can climb alpine routes and big mountains but still pull THAT off.


Hats off... as always. What a dude.
goatboy smellz

climber
लघिमा
Feb 16, 2010 - 01:49am PT
Has "Welcome to Afghanistan" seen a second ascent?

Although specifics are lacking, on the far right side of El Cap, Jim Bridwell established Welcome to Afghanistan, a relatively short (about 10 pitches) route with climbing to A4/5.


http://www.americanalpineclub.org/documents/pdf/aaj/2002/198_lower48_aaj2002.pdf#search="Jim Bridwell"

Mighty Hiker

climber
Vancouver, B.C.
Feb 16, 2010 - 01:59am PT
"Jim's major accomplishments..."

I barely know him, but would say that in addition to many many climbs, his major accomplishments have been as an important leader of the Yosemite, US and world climbing communities for nearly 50 years, and a mentor to many great climbers. His leadership has produced many great routes, climbers, and techniques.

And, just to beat Lynne to it, his penchant for colourful clothing should also be mentioned.
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Feb 16, 2010 - 04:21am PT
Just the Yosemite Valley part:
1964 - Ahab, Folly Left Side, Middle Cathedral North Buttress FFA
1965 - Snake Dike
1966 - Braille Book, Commitment
1967 - Edge of Night, Washington Column - South Central
1969 - Triple Direct
1970 - Waverley Wafer, New Dimensions, Gripper, Vain Hope, Absolutely Free Right Side
1971 - Wheat Thin, Butterfingers, Outer Limits, Catchy, Abstract Corner, Steppin' Out, Aquarian Wall
1972 - Goldrush, 10.96
1973 - The Crucifix, Central Pillar of Frenzy, The Good Book FFA, Mental Block, Hotline
1973 - established the 5.10a, b, c, d subgrades and solidified the 5.11 grade, in his articles "Brave New World" in Mountain http://www.stanford.edu/~clint/yos/brave.htm and "The Innocent, the Ignorant, and the Insecure" Ascent.
1974 - Freestone, Geek Center
1975 - Pacific Ocean Wall, Free Blast
1977 - Bushido
1978 - Sea of Dreams, Zenith, Bob Locke Memorial Buttress
1981 - Zenyatta Mondata
1987 - The Big Chill
1989 - Shadows

Basket Case was an FFA of one move
Brian in SLC

Social climber
Salt Lake City, UT
Feb 16, 2010 - 10:12am PT
Everest West ridge??? What, was that like as an aside??


Not sure that'd be listed as a "success".

I dimly recall he led the expedition and it didn't get very far?

I think Webster talks about it some in his book, Snow in the Kingdom.

From a review of that book:

His first taste of Everest took place in 1985 on a West Ridge expedition, headed up by big wall climber Jim Bridwell. Bogged down by large numbers and cumbersome motorized hauling equipment, the expedition ended far from the top.


Cheers,

-Brian in SLC
Ihateplastic

Trad climber
It ain't El Cap, Oregon
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 16, 2010 - 10:54am PT
Brian... I, too, wondered about the Everest listing. Once I have a community consensous I will run this by Jim to make sure he agrees.

I also wondered about Kichatna Spire... Maybe that should be on there?

With short free stuff it is tricky because the man did plenty of cool short routes but listing a 70' free route next to a 30 pitch alpine wall seems inconsistent.
Dick Erb

climber
June Lake, CA
Feb 16, 2010 - 11:06am PT
listing a 70' free route next to a 30 pitch alpine wall seems inconsistent.
Maybe it is somehow inconsistent, but it is important if you want to show the broad range of his climbing. There are quite a number of climbers who have made impressive ascents in one specialty or another, but the number is much smaller of those who have done it in a wide range of conditions and environments.
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