BRIDWELL - Proofread PLEASE!

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Ihateplastic

Trad climber

It ain't El Cap, Oregon

Topic Author's Original Post - Feb 15, 2010 - 10:37pm PT

//EDIT: This is the FINAL list as of 2/18/10 at 12:10.//

This is a list compiled from the interwebs of Jim's major accomplishments. I know this stuff is repeated on several places across the tube but I am pulling it together for BridwellFest '10 and I want to make sure it represents what we believe to be THE HIGHLIGHTS of his career.

As with any writing assignment, an extra pair (or 20) of eyes helps avoid the, "How the hell did that happen!" typos.

So, I welcome comments, corrections, deletions, additions, etc. The ratings are as they were during the FA or FFA and may not be current as of today.

1961 - No Holds Barred - The Bird's First, First Ascent
1965 - Ahab - 5.10
1967 - FFA The Stovelegs - 5.10
1967 - East Face, Higher Cathedral Rock - VI, 5.10, A4
1971 - Abstract Corner 5.11d
1971 - Aquarian Wall - VI, 5.9, A4
1972 - Nabisco Wall - 5.11
1972 - Basket Case - 5.11
1973 - Hotline - 5.10, A1
1973 - Crucifix, 5.10, A2
1974 - Freestone - 5.11b
1974 - Good Book - 5.10d
1975 - NIAD
1975 - Pacific Ocean Wall - VI, 5.10, A5
1975 - FFA Free Blast - 5.11
1975 - Wailing Wall - 5.12
1976 - El Mocho - Southeast Pillar 5.10, A1
1976 - Mirage, VI, 5.9, A4+
1977 - Bushido - VI, 5.10, A4
1978 - Sea of Dreams - VI, 5.10, A5
1978 - Bob Locke Memorial Buttress - VI, 5.11b, A4
1979 - Compressor Route, Cerro Torre - VI, 5.10, A3
1981 - Zenyatta Mondatta - VI, 5.10, A5
1981 - The Dance of the Woo-Li Masters - VII, 5.10, A5
1982 - Pumori - 7,145 meters
1983 - Trans Borneo Crossing
1985 - Big Chill - VI, 5.10, A5
1988 - Exocet, Cerro Stanhardt - VI, 5.9, WI6
1988 - El Condor - VI, 5.11, A2
1989 - Shadows - VI, 5.10. A5
1992 - Eiger North Face
1998 - Heavy Metal and Tinker Toys - VI, 5.10, PDH
1998 - Experimental Earth - V, 5.10, A3
1999 - The Useless Emotion - VII, 5.9, WI4, A4
1999 - Oddysey - VI, 5.9, A4
2001 - The Beast Pillar - VII, 5.10, A5, WI4+, M6

Ihateplastic

Trad climber

It ain't El Cap, Oregon

Topic Author's Reply - Feb 15, 2010 - 11:44pm PT

Rock!... Am I missing something? Did I lleps the thread tit wrong? I donut thank sew.

Todd Gordon

Trad climber

Joshua Tree, Cal

Feb 15, 2010 - 11:44pm PT

You forgot his Palm Springs chipped routes on that list....

jsb

Trad climber

Bay area

Feb 15, 2010 - 11:56pm PT

Hotline is grade III, not grade VI. Although, you can turn it into a grade V by trying to cross the river on the way back out when you really shouldn't.

flak

Social climber

confusion

Feb 15, 2010 - 11:58pm PT

has not held a job. No useful employment. fathered children out of marrage. failed to support those children with what most consider conventional life necesities,

Ihateplastic

Trad climber

It ain't El Cap, Oregon

Topic Author's Reply - Feb 15, 2010 - 11:59pm PT

Good catch... It was supposed to read IV since it was rated that on the FA. I might leave the IV out since it is not really pertinent to the route.

Thanks!

Ihateplastic

Trad climber

It ain't El Cap, Oregon

Topic Author's Reply - Feb 16, 2010 - 12:00am PT

Flak... you are not needed here.

EVERYONE: Please ignore this ignoramus whose penile length is not worthy of shite. Just pay attention to the OP.

goatboy smellz

climber

लघिमा

Feb 16, 2010 - 12:34am PT

His rating system is spot on and should not be overlooked.

NBD
NTB
PDH
DFU

How about Experimental Earth in Kolob Canyon or is that to Western?

Ihateplastic

Trad climber

It ain't El Cap, Oregon

Topic Author's Reply - Feb 16, 2010 - 12:36am PT

Goatboy... rating? year?

goatboy smellz

climber

लघिमा

Feb 16, 2010 - 12:53am PT

'98 V 5.10 A3
Piton Ron may chime in with the specifics, very proud line!

WBraun

climber

Feb 16, 2010 - 01:14am PT

Lucretia and Rik Reider did Muir trail with only blankets and eating roots and tubers :-)

Ihateplastic

Trad climber

It ain't El Cap, Oregon

Topic Author's Reply - Feb 16, 2010 - 01:26am PT

Kevin, again with my busy fingers!

Jim did too many walls so my fingers keep typing VI...

Originally Hotline was listed as IV but today it would warrant III.

I may just drop the III,IV,V rating on most climbs and only use it on the VI and VII walls. Less confusing.

Ihateplastic

Trad climber

It ain't El Cap, Oregon

Topic Author's Reply - Feb 16, 2010 - 01:27am PT

Locker... I don't want to be there the day Jim meets this boner!

Five hits: One hit to his face, one hit when he hits the floor, and three more hits for each stupid post he made.

GDavis

Social climber

SOL CAL

Feb 16, 2010 - 01:41am PT

I've seen like five lists of ascents by Bridwell, and each time there is new stuff that I didnt know about that blows my mind. Everest West ridge??? What, was that like as an aside?? that would DEFINE most climbers career! But on that list it kind of falls by the wayside, ahah!

Didn't he also do some 13's in Josh? Say what you will about bolted routes, but I've rapped past at least one route I know he's done, and it looked STOUT. Find me someone who can climb alpine routes and big mountains but still pull THAT off.

Hats off... as always. What a dude.

goatboy smellz

climber

लघिमा

Feb 16, 2010 - 01:49am PT

Has "Welcome to Afghanistan" seen a second ascent?

Although specifics are lacking, on the far right side of El Cap, Jim Bridwell established Welcome to Afghanistan, a relatively short (about 10 pitches) route with climbing to A4/5.

http://www.americanalpineclub.org/documents/pdf/aaj/2002/198_lower48_aaj2002.pdf#search="Jim Bridwell"

Mighty Hiker

climber

Vancouver, B.C.

Feb 16, 2010 - 01:59am PT

"Jim's major accomplishments..."

I barely know him, but would say that in addition to many many climbs, his major accomplishments have been as an important leader of the Yosemite, US and world climbing communities for nearly 50 years, and a mentor to many great climbers. His leadership has produced many great routes, climbers, and techniques.

And, just to beat Lynne to it, his penchant for colourful clothing should also be mentioned.

Clint Cummins

Trad climber

SF Bay area, CA

Feb 16, 2010 - 04:21am PT

Just the Yosemite Valley part:
1964 - Ahab, Folly Left Side, Middle Cathedral North Buttress FFA
1965 - Snake Dike
1966 - Braille Book, Commitment
1967 - Edge of Night, Washington Column - South Central
1969 - Triple Direct
1970 - Waverley Wafer, New Dimensions, Gripper, Vain Hope, Absolutely Free Right Side
1971 - Wheat Thin, Butterfingers, Outer Limits, Catchy, Abstract Corner, Steppin' Out, Aquarian Wall
1972 - Goldrush, 10.96
1973 - The Crucifix, Central Pillar of Frenzy, The Good Book FFA, Mental Block, Hotline
1973 - established the 5.10a, b, c, d subgrades and solidified the 5.11 grade, in his articles "Brave New World" in Mountain http://www.stanford.edu/~clint/yos/brave.htm and "The Innocent, the Ignorant, and the Insecure" Ascent.
1974 - Freestone, Geek Center
1975 - Pacific Ocean Wall, Free Blast
1977 - Bushido
1978 - Sea of Dreams, Zenith, Bob Locke Memorial Buttress
1981 - Zenyatta Mondata
1987 - The Big Chill
1989 - Shadows

Basket Case was an FFA of one move

Brian in SLC

Social climber

Salt Lake City, UT

Feb 16, 2010 - 10:12am PT

Everest West ridge??? What, was that like as an aside??

Not sure that'd be listed as a "success".

I dimly recall he led the expedition and it didn't get very far?

I think Webster talks about it some in his book, Snow in the Kingdom.

From a review of that book:

His first taste of Everest took place in 1985 on a West Ridge expedition, headed up by big wall climber Jim Bridwell. Bogged down by large numbers and cumbersome motorized hauling equipment, the expedition ended far from the top.

Cheers,

-Brian in SLC

Ihateplastic

Trad climber

It ain't El Cap, Oregon

Topic Author's Reply - Feb 16, 2010 - 10:54am PT

Brian... I, too, wondered about the Everest listing. Once I have a community consensous I will run this by Jim to make sure he agrees.

I also wondered about Kichatna Spire... Maybe that should be on there?

With short free stuff it is tricky because the man did plenty of cool short routes but listing a 70' free route next to a 30 pitch alpine wall seems inconsistent.

Dick Erb

climber

June Lake, CA

Feb 16, 2010 - 11:06am PT

listing a 70' free route next to a 30 pitch alpine wall seems inconsistent.

Maybe it is somehow inconsistent, but it is important if you want to show the broad range of his climbing. There are quite a number of climbers who have made impressive ascents in one specialty or another, but the number is much smaller of those who have done it in a wide range of conditions and environments.

Largo

Sport climber

The Big Wide Open Face

Feb 16, 2010 - 11:17am PT

Kevin wrote: "It's kind of a minor route, and I haven't done it, but some think Abstract Corner at the Cookie was his hardest free route for years. I know Largo thinks it was. Apparently harder than Butterfingers, and ahead of its time."

It does seem a little strange to stack in these little free climbingproblems with his big ascents, but in fact most of what is done today, in terms of scope, would be considered "minor."

So, yes, Abstract Corner is just a short, one-pitch, one-off at the top of the Cookie, but for dificult moves, it's the hardest thing (5.12a/b??) I ever did of Jim's, and I think I did most all of them except Basket Case.
Us Uplanders (Rick Accomazzo, Richard Harrison and I) did the Corner and we all were impressed with it. It was a lot like a hard Mt. Roubidoux boulder problem, and back in those days we almost lived out at Roubidoux duing the winter.

JL

Ihateplastic

Trad climber

It ain't El Cap, Oregon

Topic Author's Reply - Feb 16, 2010 - 01:08pm PT

I have added Abstract Corner (5.11d in every book/reference I can find.)

I also changed the Right Side of the Folly to Good Book. It's weird, I always knew the route as Good Book but only one of my guides lists it that way; every other book has it as Right Side of the Folly.

Mighty Hiker

climber

Vancouver, B.C.

Feb 16, 2010 - 01:10pm PT

What was his very first, first ascent? Maybe that also should be included, as a sort of bookend.

Ihateplastic

Trad climber

It ain't El Cap, Oregon

Topic Author's Reply - Feb 16, 2010 - 01:16pm PT

Mighty... Perhaps only Jim knows that... nice idea though... I will make sure to run that by him at the end of this week when I plan to close this discussion (well, close it as far as Bridwellfest '10 is concerned)

Clint Cummins

Trad climber

SF Bay area, CA

Feb 16, 2010 - 02:37pm PT

> What was his very first, first ascent? Maybe that also should be included, as a sort of bookend.

11/1961: No Holds Barred, w/ Larry Kilmer (Pinnacles, with aid; he went back and freed it at 5.10 in 1965)

survival

Big Wall climber

A Token of My Extreme

Feb 16, 2010 - 03:59pm PT

I remember Flak.

He made a pass at Bridwell one night and got knocked out in the dust of Camp 4.

He never forgave Jim.

Ihateplastic

Trad climber

It ain't El Cap, Oregon

Topic Author's Reply - Feb 16, 2010 - 05:17pm PT

I remember doing No Holds Barred in about 1974 and being spanked...

Thanks for that Clint.

Mighty Hiker

climber

Vancouver, B.C.

Feb 16, 2010 - 05:56pm PT

I could show up in the valley wearing a penis gourd, a bone in my nose, and a well-armed blowgun.

Be careful - tourists might think you're a ranger.

Lynne Leichtfuss

Sport climber

Will know soon

Feb 16, 2010 - 08:45pm PT

Yeah, Mighty Hiker.....I'd give alot for anything of Bridwell's paisley. Guy not only 'sended....he did it with
Style !!! :D Joy and Peace, Lynnie

Ihateplastic

Trad climber

It ain't El Cap, Oregon

Topic Author's Reply - Feb 18, 2010 - 02:13am PT

Thanks to all of you who helped to edit the list!

The artwork is done for the BridwellFest '10 shirt and it should be available for pre-orders starting Thursday 2/18. After the event the artwork will be destroyed and no new shirts produced. This will be a truly limited edition piece and one you wish you had bought "BITD."

Thanks again!

Toker Villain

Big Wall climber

Toquerville, Utah

Feb 18, 2010 - 08:31am PT

The thing about Experimental Earth (the name came from a line in Coppola's Dracula) is that it is sqeezed in between Wind Sand & Stars and Sunlight Buttress, two of (if not THE TWO) best routes in the Kolob.

EE will therefore probably remain a dark horse and, since it was somewhat retro (nailing between clean lines), deservedly so.
But it was a memorable experience for both myself and my good friend Mark who went on to put up more with Jim on El Cap.

I suppose that Bird should be pleased that flak is envious enough of him to bother to berate him in the taco teacup, but haters are haters, and if this keeps up Chris should whack this mole just on general principles.

As for the employment history, Jim is a harder worker than me and yet has done far more to inspire the docile sheep who lack the gumption to leave their pitiful cubicles.

Ihateplastic

Trad climber

It ain't El Cap, Oregon

Topic Author's Reply - Feb 18, 2010 - 10:52am PT

For those who missed it, Sewellymon is referencing a post (now disappeared) from Fogarty that pointed fingers and then ran for cover behind a bush. No matter that it is gone for it wasn't worthy anyway.

Barry Bates

Boulder climber

Smith River CA

Feb 18, 2010 - 12:05pm PT

I remember Jim making a list of the valley 5.10 routes on a sheet of paper with the abcd ratings in 71, as far as I know that was the first time anyone had broken down the rather wide 5.10 grade into a more defined rating. from what I remember of the list, the ratings have stood the test of time and have not changed much over the years. Considering how we squabble over ratings I find it remarkable that Jims first shot at breaking down the grade was so accurate.
When he did the Abstract corner in 70 he thought it was the hardest free route in the valley, which it certainly was. It's never received much credibility because of it's difficult bouldery start. I personalty don't see much difference between a boulder start and a 11d move on a sport route with the bolt at one's waist If you look at it in this way it was way ahead of its time.
Barry