Beth Rodden and Tommy Caldwell Free Climb The Nose
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Chris McNamara

SuperTopo staff member
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 21, 2005 - 10:12pm PT
i just saw tommy and beth in el capitan meadow a few hours ago. i didn't get the exact details but they both did climb the route and then shortly afterward Tommy freed the route in 12 hours.

soooo sick
JuanDeFuca

Big Wall climber
Chatsworth
Oct 21, 2005 - 10:16pm PT
I have to agree with ElCapFool!
Chris McNamara

SuperTopo staff member
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 22, 2005 - 04:10am PT
here are better details from Hans Florine at www.speedclimb.com


On October 17, 12005 Tommy Coldwell free climbed the Nose of El Capitan in less than 12 hours, taking only one fall on the Changing Corners pitch. Beth Rodden-Caldwell belayed Tommy on his ascent; incredibly, Tommy and Beth freed the route together in four days, swapping pitches, only 36 hours before Tommy’s successful ascent. The pair started Tommy’s free bid around midnight and encountered only one other party, whom they passed around 3 A.M. on the top of Dolt Tower. Rather than simul-climbing, Caldwell “pitched out” the route and rested while Beth jugged. This is the second time that the Nose has been freed in a day, and is the first all-free-in-a-day ascent by a male (the previous one-day ascent was made by Lynn Hill in 1994).
elcap-pics

climber
Crestline CA
Oct 22, 2005 - 02:45pm PT
Yo.. I photographed both climbs and they were impressive. A fine, modest couple who climb for their own pleasure... a welcomed relief from all the sprayers on this site.
Tom Evans
Ditch Trad

Trad climber
CA
Oct 22, 2005 - 04:58pm PT
I photographed both climbs and they were impressive. A fine, modest couple who climb for their own pleasure... a welcomed relief from all the sprayers on this site.


Interesting comment coming from a "extreme sport" photographer...

I don't know, I'd say that sponsorship plays something here as well...I guess we'll see if we get a nice spread like the "Dihed Free" in the ubiquitous Mag.

Not to take away anything from either, they both climb light years harder that I ever have or will. Congrats to both, good to see a 2nd FIAD done since '92.

Not sayin---just "sayin"...
Karl Baba

Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
Oct 22, 2005 - 11:22pm PT
"Yo.. I photographed both climbs and they were impressive. A fine, modest couple who climb for their own pleasure... a welcomed relief from all the sprayers on this site.
Tom Evans"

Nonsense Tom. Any lack of humility on this site has nothing to do with climbing spray. Few of us are good enough (at least anymore) to spray very far.

But Beth and Tommy are cool folks

peace

karl
Gunkie

climber
East Coast US
Oct 23, 2005 - 08:24am PT
"Enough with this hiking! [free climbing] Let's get on with zee climbing [aid climbing]!" -- John Salathe'
Guillermo

climber
Nov 2, 2005 - 06:41pm PT
ALL OF YOUZ NEED TO GET A LIFE!!!
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Nov 3, 2005 - 02:11am PT
I've been thinking about this for a while and actually think the "cragging" ascent of the Nose, free, in a day, is an important achievement to the climbing community. Think about it, swapping leads all day on a 34 pitch route that goes at 14a.

While the individual achievement of doing both the Nose and Freerider in a day is spectacular, it is really something a single person did; a wonderful act.

But imagine the conversation racking up for a day's climbing in the meadows under the Capitan:

"Gee honey, want to climb the Nose?"

"Sure, what do you want to do this afternoon?"

The Nose as a crag route... that really blows my mind.
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