Beth Rodden and Tommy Caldwell Free Climb The Nose

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Messages 21 - 40 of total 69 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
James

Social climber
My Subconcious
Oct 17, 2005 - 02:07pm PT
Two dedicated rock climbers doing burly routes. They have an excellent partnership.

Three cheers to a successfully tied knot. May their abilities continue.
Gnat

climber
Smell A
Oct 17, 2005 - 02:12pm PT
Like I said, let's just TR everything from now on and call it a day...

Like I said, let's just TR everything from now on and call it a day...

Like I said, let's just TR everything from now on and call it a day...

Like I said, let's just TR everything from now on and call it a day...

Like I said, let's just TR everything from now on and call it a day...

Like I said, let's just TR everything from now on and call it a day...

Like I said, let's just TR everything from now on and call it a day...


Just an experiment... to see if repeating this inane comment makes it sound any more intellegent...Nope.

Hardman Knott

Gym climber
Straight Outta Squamton
Oct 17, 2005 - 02:14pm PT
Hey, just having a bit of fun. I actually deleted the second post.

It's all good!

(as long as claimed ascents are done on lead)
jiff

Mountain climber
philadelphia
Oct 17, 2005 - 02:14pm PT
ok here's the press release: http://climbing.com/news/thenosefree/
dmitry

Trad climber
Chita, Russia
Oct 17, 2005 - 02:18pm PT
Phenomenal accomplishment!

Very happy for them.

A side note: of course following a pitch free IS free climbing it.

Cheers,
d
Peter

climber
Oct 17, 2005 - 03:08pm PT
Great accomplishment for sure.

Did Hill climb all the pitches with no falls (ie; first try) on her free ascent in a day?

According to the press release:

Caldwell and Rodden led all the pitches free in four days, but Rodden "led the Great Roof successfully on her second try during the free push".
k-man

Gym climber
SCruz
Oct 17, 2005 - 03:17pm PT
I think there's a difference between following and TR'ing a pitch. Although I'd bet that Scotty had some gear in when he TR'ed the GR. What matters most is what Scott himself feels about his own accomplishments--we can argue til the cows come home about his freeing the route. For me, I don't consider that I've fully climbed a single pitch unless I've led it. Multi-pitch climbs, I'm fine with swinging. But a straight TR, heck that's just practice to me.

[Now if I TR'ed Love Supreme, I think I'd say I did it!]

:- k
caughtinside

Social climber
Davis, CA
Oct 17, 2005 - 03:27pm PT
Top roping and leading are both free climbing if you don't weight the rope or gear. Sheesh.

But there is a style difference between tr and lead.

A rad accomplishment by Beth and Tommy, but I don't know if it's stylistically superior to Burke's, as none of the 3 led every pitch on the climb.

Inspiring!
jiff

Mountain climber
philadelphia
Oct 17, 2005 - 03:39pm PT
"A rad accomplishment by Beth and Tommy, but I don't know if it's stylistically superior to Burke's, as none of the 3 led every pitch on the climb."

It will be interesting to see when Tommy or Beth or anyone else goes back and leads all the pitches.

Why didn't Scotty go back and clean up unfinished business?
Hardman Knott

Gym climber
Straight Outta Squamton
Oct 17, 2005 - 03:55pm PT
Why would it be unfinished business––if indeed the style doesn't matter?
jiff

Mountain climber
philadelphia
Oct 17, 2005 - 04:10pm PT
I didn't say the style didn't matter, I just said its still free even if done on toprope. As long as the ascent is reported as TR thats the main thing.
Burns

Trad climber
Arlington, VA
Oct 17, 2005 - 04:33pm PT
jiff- good point, as long as its reported as a TR, thats what matters from an ethics standpoint. Be honest about your ascents.

Apparently Scott led the great roof free in earlier attempts, but during his final ground up send he TR'd because, well, because he chose to. Anyway, I suppose this need not get hashed out anymore. By all accounts, Tommy and Beth are great folks, and sick climbers, and I'm quite happy for them.

Tommy and Beth are superstars and have accomplished an amazing thing, The Proudest Send of 'Em All(how do I get the little TM to appear?). Although Scott Burke is a far more talented climber than me, he's a lot closer to an average Joe than Tommy and Beth, so its inspiring to see that dedication and hard work can allow you to accomplish something so impressive.
JuanDeFuca

Big Wall climber
Chatsworth
Oct 17, 2005 - 05:11pm PT
Man this is crazy, if not every pitch was led and cleaned, its not a free ascent!


Juanito
jiff

Mountain climber
philadelphia
Oct 17, 2005 - 05:16pm PT
Yeah I don't know what the hell I'm talking about, nevermind.
Apocalypsenow

Trad climber
Cali
Oct 17, 2005 - 05:31pm PT
Terry, it was simply a curiousity question. Damn...it is a great accomplishment, even with preplaced gear, however I do feel it makes a difference.

Mick Ryan

Trad climber
Saratoga Springs, NY
Oct 17, 2005 - 06:02pm PT
And indeed the debate is raging if you care to check out this thread at the Supertopo forum.

http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/
akclimber

Trad climber
Eagle River, AK
Oct 17, 2005 - 06:19pm PT
billygoat wrote:" First of all: this isn't the fastest free ascent of the nose by a couple. It's the ONLY free ascent of the nose by a couple. Hans' stab at competition is like saying Waren Harding was going for a speed ascent when he did the FA."

You idiot. Look at what Hans wrote. His site is SPEEDCLIMBING.COM. It was called HUMOR. He is all about speed climbing and I thought that little comment about it being the "fastest" was pretty funny.

And all you critics of Tommy and Beth should pull your head out of your ass and stop being so eager to sh#t on people when they accomplish something you can only dream about.
theishofoz

Trad climber
lafayette, CA
Oct 17, 2005 - 08:25pm PT
proud send
TradIsGood

Trad climber
Gunks end of country
Oct 17, 2005 - 08:48pm PT
A couple of years ago Hans Florine visited and talked about his speed climbing philosophy, ...

Asked when he thought a guy would free the Nose. He said he thought Lynn Hill might be the only climber good enough and with small enough hands to do it.

Looking at the "free" debate going on here reminds me of all the lawyer jokes I ever heard. And skating judges, and gymnastics judges, ...

Anyway, I am impressed. If they had fun, that's good enough for me.

Of course, if the style isn't good enough for you, raise. No bluffing in this game.
Chris McNamara

SuperTopo staff member
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 17, 2005 - 08:53pm PT
wish i had more details but right now tommy is on the wall trying to climb it free in a day... so he's not exactly available for comment. when i get better beta i will pass it on.

i am not judge of whether scott did the second free ascent or not. ill leave that up to the general climbing community. and I thought the general consensus was that because he didn't lead all the pitches in one go, then it wasn't a free ascent. but i could also be wrong about reading the general consensus. no matter, he definitely sent up there and made a super-proud climb.

scott, beth, tommy... lynn. they are all super human
Messages 21 - 40 of total 69 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
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