notes on San Diego rock climbing

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Messages 261 - 268 of total 268 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
Eric Beck

Sport climber
Bishop, California
Nov 19, 2012 - 10:01am PT
Hi Claud. This is a trip into my distant past. Your third pic, showing the trough up thru the red rock, I think is the start of an ancient route of mine, maybe mid 60s, that I did with Jerry Hooper.

Here's a tidbit from that climb. I had climbed up to the top of the trough, 5.8, and found a good stance, maybe 2 inches by 10 inches and was drilling. I almost had the hole completed when the good stance came off completely, leaving me hanging from the drill holder. Amazingly, the drill didn't break. I found some smaller holds and finished the bolt. I remember a 5.8 section immediately above and some more 5.8 with nested pins for protection. Four pitches altogether.

Back then we were able to drive up the road off to the east. It was a 20 minute brush free walk to the rock.
dirt claud

Social climber
san diego,ca
Nov 19, 2012 - 10:52am PT
Man, It would be nice to have that type of access still. That hike is a bitch. Thanks for the background story. Didn't know people were climbing there back in the 60s. Lots of rock up here in SD that has not been touched since the 60s/70s it seams. Brian S. and Chris H. have done a lot of killer work in the ECM area and more routes have opened up on the rocks to the south of the main wall that is shown in the 2nd pic. That would be cool if there were any old ECM pics around.
mooser

Trad climber
seattle
Jan 16, 2013 - 07:14am PT
bvb wrote:

in december, january, february, and march, winter storms will blow through san diego with lots of cool temps and rain, then the storm will clear out, the sun will be brilliant in a scrubbed sky, sometimes you get an offshore santa ana thrown in for good measure, and the grass and mustard just pops. it's gorgeous and the granite can feel like flypaper. when the conditions are just right in san diego, as they are so often during the winter, nothing else compares. it's simply the best.

Yup. Well said.
bajaandy

climber
Escondido, CA
Jan 16, 2013 - 09:55am PT
One of those cold, crisp, after-a-storm afternoons in San Diego of which you speak...
Credit: bajaandy
Credit: bajaandy
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Jan 16, 2013 - 11:16am PT
+1 on the BVB taste.
Quite a stash of really nice writing by Ray Olson in this thread: nostalgic and clear as a bell!
The Ron Amick passage is sweet too.
bvb

Social climber
flagstaff arizona
Jan 16, 2013 - 01:26pm PT
Today is one of those perfect days. Conditions do not ever get better than this. It's absoltely primo.
dirt claud

Social climber
san diego,ca
Feb 24, 2014 - 12:14pm PT
Great time at Corte Madera this weekend. Thanks to all who have made the spot such a great place to climb, great setting, clean routes and awesome rock!!

Sunset Streaks 5 pitch 10a
Sunset Streaks 5 pitch 10a
Credit: dirt claud
Credit: dirt claud
Fun satelite rocks all around!!
Fun satelite rocks all around!!
Credit: dirt claud
Fun bouldering everywhere too!!
Fun bouldering everywhere too!!
Credit: dirt claud
Credit: dirt claud
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Feb 25, 2014 - 01:29pm PT
Bump for the Sweetness...
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