The Eldred

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kinnikinik

Trad climber
B.C.
Topic Author's Original Post - Nov 8, 2009 - 12:45pm PT
I don't know what to say, but suffice that there has been some fun going on up here. I guess a few photo's would help
Credit: kinnikinik
This is the main Eldred area.and these are some walls
Credit: kinnikinik
this is the west main wall about 800m tall
Credit: kinnikinik
this is Carag-Dur 600m
Credit: kinnikinik
This one we call Amon Rudh 500m
Credit: kinnikinik
and this is psyche slab 500m,the most popular formation in the Valley.some characters
Mikeon SRI
Mikeon SRI
Credit: kinnikinik
Christie
Christie
Credit: kinnikinik
Fred
Fred
Credit: kinnikinik
The funk soul brothers
The funk soul brothers
Credit: kinnikinik
Rick
Rick
Credit: kinnikinik
Rob Richard
Rob Richard
Credit: kinnikinik
Christie
Christie
Credit: kinnikinik
Victor
Victor
Credit: kinnikinik
Alanamal
Alanamal
Credit: kinnikinik
Andy sacin' it up on racknphobia
Andy sacin' it up on racknphobia
Credit: kinnikinik
belay duty
belay duty
Credit: kinnikinik
John Millar RIP
John Millar RIP
Credit: kinnikinik
Luke
Luke
Credit: kinnikinik
Brian
Brian
Credit: kinnikinik
Island dude
Island dude
Credit: kinnikinik
I suppose thats enough for now
Mike Bolte

Trad climber
Planet Earth
Nov 8, 2009 - 12:50pm PT
whoa! great share - thanks!
John Moosie

climber
Beautiful California
Nov 8, 2009 - 12:54pm PT
Yep, The monkeys go crazy, the call goes out, and someone posts a thread full of beautiful climbing shots, to calm the monkeys. Awesome.

See this thread for crazy monkeys.

http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/1004633/Why_do_people_post_stupid_topics
Climbing dropout

Trad climber
Vancouver, BC
Nov 8, 2009 - 01:28pm PT
Thanks for the photos. How about a commentary on access, and new route activities for the past year ? I have been to the Eldred once only, many many years ago

Whats the deal with the river crossing nowa days ? Permanent Tyrolean established ?
Fletcher

Trad climber
somewhere approaching Ajna
Nov 8, 2009 - 01:32pm PT
This monkey sez, "Good stuff!"
Ghost

climber
A long way from where I started
Nov 8, 2009 - 02:11pm PT
Amazing place. Thanks for posting those pictures.

We went to the Eldred domes just once, and because we screwed up the ferry schedule, we wound up with just half a day of climbing, but we've promised ourselves that we'll go back.
Mighty Hiker

climber
Vancouver, B.C. Small wall climber.
Nov 8, 2009 - 10:04pm PT
Thanks, Colin!

For those wondering, the Eldred valley is northeast of Powell River, which in turn is up the coast from Vancouver. It takes two ferries (synchronized) to get there, and about an hour driving on a decent logging road. So overall it takes a good half day to get there from Vancouver.

It is a valley formed by glaciation, but not quite a fjord. Still, there's a lot of rock in the Eldred, a lot of potential, and a lot of freedom. Local climbers have established a fair number of climbs, and there's even a guidebook. (Climber's Guide to Powell River - Chris Armstrong.) They've also established a camp that is relatively central to the climbing, and given the proximity of a 'mini'-hydro development, it appears that access will continue. (We have big problems with logging roads washing out.) Plus are a friendly bunch, and there is also some climbing right in or near Powell River.

There can be long periods of stable weather there in summer, although it is in a rain forest.

There are innumerable fjords up the BC coast, most of which have fine granitic walls, but most are very difficult to reach without a good boat. Howe Sound (leading to Squamish) is the southernmost, although there are fjords closer to the equator in Newfoundland, Chile and possibly New Zealand.
kinnikinik

Trad climber
B.C.
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 8, 2009 - 11:51pm PT
Access to the Eldred is the best it's been in years. Construction of the Power line through the valley has caused the powers that be to maintain the road.There are two wires fixed across the river, one at Carag-dur the other by the west main
Credit: kinnikinik
west main crossing
west main crossing
Credit: kinnikinik
both trails are in good shape. Access to Amon rudh is poor due to landslides. psyche slab has excellent access,5 minutes from the road.Several parties climbed on the west main butress without summiting.A couple of things were done on carag-dur without summits and a new eight pitch route was climbed on psyche slab.Andy and co. climbed three new routes in the Khartoum valley nearby. All in all a good season in an obscure area.
Credit: kinnikinik
Tami

Social climber
Vancouver, Canada
Nov 9, 2009 - 12:32am PT
Ooooh, SKOOKUM pix !!! Many thanks for posting.
Climbing dropout

Trad climber
Vancouver, BC
Nov 9, 2009 - 12:35am PT
Colin do you have pictures of the cliff left of Carag-Dur, I remember it as being beautifully featured with millions of horizontal dikes ? Or am I remembering it all wrong ?

Whats the bear situation like ? I remember going up there with a local I forgot his name but he brought a big rifle along. That's major Bigfoot country up there too ...

Do you guys camp out up there ?

MH2

climber
Nov 9, 2009 - 03:14am PT
Obscure area? It has a guidebook.

And that video: No Permanent Address(?)

Very nice photo spread.
Delhi Dog

Trad climber
Good Question...
Nov 9, 2009 - 04:02am PT
"For those wondering, the Eldred valley is northeast of Powell River, which in turn is up the coast from Vancouver."

Thanks MM! I was one of them.
Looks Primo!
Another place to visit!

Thanks for the photos and share.

Cheers,
DD
Zander

Trad climber
Berkeley
Nov 9, 2009 - 10:02am PT
Great looking place. Cool pics.
Thanks for posting.
Zander
kinnikinik

Trad climber
B.C.
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 9, 2009 - 10:04am PT
CD- we camp up there all the time, there is a small climbers camp near the base parking for psyche slab. It has modest facilities. The Bear situation is pretty much like everywhere in B.C. Police your food/Garbage and please don't carry guns around, you might hurt poor boo-boo.As for Sask, offer up the kokanee's
Credit: kinnikinik
here's a shot from a foray on Carag dur this summer. I couldn't find a shot of carahdras, I have one somewhere.
Climbing dropout

Trad climber
Vancouver, BC
Nov 9, 2009 - 10:35am PT
Please post as many pictures as you can, I'm enjoying this. I may have met you at the Boot pub restaurant in Whistler a few years back or perhaps when Dean Hart and I came up there in the 80's or early 90's
pazzo

climber
Vancouver BC
Nov 9, 2009 - 11:13am PT
Colin,

Great topic and awesome pics!! Please keep them coming.


On a side note,
Is the Eldrid on Crown Land? Why so rigid about taking along a simple shotgun for dangerous animal defence?

I don't want to get into the whole gun topic here with the gentle natured climbers on this board, but I'm curious about your bringing it up. Have you had issues with local rednecks shooting at moving 'creatures' on the big granite walls?

Thanks!
Oplopanax

Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
Nov 9, 2009 - 01:49pm PT
Hey CAD did anything get done in the upper powell or Daniels this year? I heard a rumour there was a crew going up to the John Clarke Wall in the Daniels with big wall gear and two weeks to burn but I can't remember where i heard it...
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
Nov 9, 2009 - 01:56pm PT
Thx for the general location information guys. Helps to put a pic with a place.



all I can say, wow!


get after it!


survival

Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
Nov 9, 2009 - 02:01pm PT
What a great looking area, and not overrun.

Thanks for all the cool pix!
JEleazarian

Trad climber
Fresno CA
Nov 9, 2009 - 02:23pm PT
Wow! Thanks for the post. I hate to confess this, but I'd not heard of the area until today. My first thought when I saw the first picture was "where in the Valley is this?" I've always thought Vancouver is a beautiful and sophisticated city, but I didn't know it had areas that appear relatively undeveloped in such close proximity.

John
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