The Eldred

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kinnikinik

Trad climber
B.C.
Topic Author's Original Post - Nov 8, 2009 - 12:45pm PT
I don't know what to say, but suffice that there has been some fun going on up here. I guess a few photo's would help
Credit: kinnikinik
This is the main Eldred area.and these are some walls
Credit: kinnikinik
this is the west main wall about 800m tall
Credit: kinnikinik
this is Carag-Dur 600m
Credit: kinnikinik
This one we call Amon Rudh 500m
Credit: kinnikinik
and this is psyche slab 500m,the most popular formation in the Valley.some characters
Mikeon SRI
Mikeon SRI
Credit: kinnikinik
Christie
Christie
Credit: kinnikinik
Fred
Fred
Credit: kinnikinik
The funk soul brothers
The funk soul brothers
Credit: kinnikinik
Rick
Rick
Credit: kinnikinik
Rob Richard
Rob Richard
Credit: kinnikinik
Christie
Christie
Credit: kinnikinik
Victor
Victor
Credit: kinnikinik
Alanamal
Alanamal
Credit: kinnikinik
Andy sacin' it up on racknphobia
Andy sacin' it up on racknphobia
Credit: kinnikinik
belay duty
belay duty
Credit: kinnikinik
John Millar RIP
John Millar RIP
Credit: kinnikinik
Luke
Luke
Credit: kinnikinik
Brian
Brian
Credit: kinnikinik
Island dude
Island dude
Credit: kinnikinik
I suppose thats enough for now
Mike Bolte

Trad climber
Planet Earth
Nov 8, 2009 - 12:50pm PT
whoa! great share - thanks!
John Moosie

climber
Beautiful California
Nov 8, 2009 - 12:54pm PT
Yep, The monkeys go crazy, the call goes out, and someone posts a thread full of beautiful climbing shots, to calm the monkeys. Awesome.

See this thread for crazy monkeys.

http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/1004633/Why_do_people_post_stupid_topics
Climbing dropout

Trad climber
Vancouver, BC
Nov 8, 2009 - 01:28pm PT
Thanks for the photos. How about a commentary on access, and new route activities for the past year ? I have been to the Eldred once only, many many years ago

Whats the deal with the river crossing nowa days ? Permanent Tyrolean established ?
Fletcher

Trad climber
somewhere approaching Ajna
Nov 8, 2009 - 01:32pm PT
This monkey sez, "Good stuff!"
Ghost

climber
A long way from where I started
Nov 8, 2009 - 02:11pm PT
Amazing place. Thanks for posting those pictures.

We went to the Eldred domes just once, and because we screwed up the ferry schedule, we wound up with just half a day of climbing, but we've promised ourselves that we'll go back.
Mighty Hiker

climber
Vancouver, B.C. Small wall climber.
Nov 8, 2009 - 10:04pm PT
Thanks, Colin!

For those wondering, the Eldred valley is northeast of Powell River, which in turn is up the coast from Vancouver. It takes two ferries (synchronized) to get there, and about an hour driving on a decent logging road. So overall it takes a good half day to get there from Vancouver.

It is a valley formed by glaciation, but not quite a fjord. Still, there's a lot of rock in the Eldred, a lot of potential, and a lot of freedom. Local climbers have established a fair number of climbs, and there's even a guidebook. (Climber's Guide to Powell River - Chris Armstrong.) They've also established a camp that is relatively central to the climbing, and given the proximity of a 'mini'-hydro development, it appears that access will continue. (We have big problems with logging roads washing out.) Plus are a friendly bunch, and there is also some climbing right in or near Powell River.

There can be long periods of stable weather there in summer, although it is in a rain forest.

There are innumerable fjords up the BC coast, most of which have fine granitic walls, but most are very difficult to reach without a good boat. Howe Sound (leading to Squamish) is the southernmost, although there are fjords closer to the equator in Newfoundland, Chile and possibly New Zealand.
kinnikinik

Trad climber
B.C.
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 8, 2009 - 11:51pm PT
Access to the Eldred is the best it's been in years. Construction of the Power line through the valley has caused the powers that be to maintain the road.There are two wires fixed across the river, one at Carag-dur the other by the west main
Credit: kinnikinik
west main crossing
west main crossing
Credit: kinnikinik
both trails are in good shape. Access to Amon rudh is poor due to landslides. psyche slab has excellent access,5 minutes from the road.Several parties climbed on the west main butress without summiting.A couple of things were done on carag-dur without summits and a new eight pitch route was climbed on psyche slab.Andy and co. climbed three new routes in the Khartoum valley nearby. All in all a good season in an obscure area.
Credit: kinnikinik
Tami

Social climber
Vancouver, Canada
Nov 9, 2009 - 12:32am PT
Ooooh, SKOOKUM pix !!! Many thanks for posting.
Climbing dropout

Trad climber
Vancouver, BC
Nov 9, 2009 - 12:35am PT
Colin do you have pictures of the cliff left of Carag-Dur, I remember it as being beautifully featured with millions of horizontal dikes ? Or am I remembering it all wrong ?

Whats the bear situation like ? I remember going up there with a local I forgot his name but he brought a big rifle along. That's major Bigfoot country up there too ...

Do you guys camp out up there ?

MH2

climber
Nov 9, 2009 - 03:14am PT
Obscure area? It has a guidebook.

And that video: No Permanent Address(?)

Very nice photo spread.
Delhi Dog

Trad climber
Good Question...
Nov 9, 2009 - 04:02am PT
"For those wondering, the Eldred valley is northeast of Powell River, which in turn is up the coast from Vancouver."

Thanks MM! I was one of them.
Looks Primo!
Another place to visit!

Thanks for the photos and share.

Cheers,
DD
Zander

Trad climber
Berkeley
Nov 9, 2009 - 10:02am PT
Great looking place. Cool pics.
Thanks for posting.
Zander
kinnikinik

Trad climber
B.C.
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 9, 2009 - 10:04am PT
CD- we camp up there all the time, there is a small climbers camp near the base parking for psyche slab. It has modest facilities. The Bear situation is pretty much like everywhere in B.C. Police your food/Garbage and please don't carry guns around, you might hurt poor boo-boo.As for Sask, offer up the kokanee's
Credit: kinnikinik
here's a shot from a foray on Carag dur this summer. I couldn't find a shot of carahdras, I have one somewhere.
Climbing dropout

Trad climber
Vancouver, BC
Nov 9, 2009 - 10:35am PT
Please post as many pictures as you can, I'm enjoying this. I may have met you at the Boot pub restaurant in Whistler a few years back or perhaps when Dean Hart and I came up there in the 80's or early 90's
pazzo

climber
Vancouver BC
Nov 9, 2009 - 11:13am PT
Colin,

Great topic and awesome pics!! Please keep them coming.


On a side note,
Is the Eldrid on Crown Land? Why so rigid about taking along a simple shotgun for dangerous animal defence?

I don't want to get into the whole gun topic here with the gentle natured climbers on this board, but I'm curious about your bringing it up. Have you had issues with local rednecks shooting at moving 'creatures' on the big granite walls?

Thanks!
Oplopanax

Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
Nov 9, 2009 - 01:49pm PT
Hey CAD did anything get done in the upper powell or Daniels this year? I heard a rumour there was a crew going up to the John Clarke Wall in the Daniels with big wall gear and two weeks to burn but I can't remember where i heard it...
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
Nov 9, 2009 - 01:56pm PT
Thx for the general location information guys. Helps to put a pic with a place.



all I can say, wow!


get after it!


survival

Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
Nov 9, 2009 - 02:01pm PT
What a great looking area, and not overrun.

Thanks for all the cool pix!
JEleazarian

Trad climber
Fresno CA
Nov 9, 2009 - 02:23pm PT
Wow! Thanks for the post. I hate to confess this, but I'd not heard of the area until today. My first thought when I saw the first picture was "where in the Valley is this?" I've always thought Vancouver is a beautiful and sophisticated city, but I didn't know it had areas that appear relatively undeveloped in such close proximity.

John
Chiloe

Trad climber
Lee, NH
Nov 9, 2009 - 02:31pm PT
So the rock is clean enough that you're finding good routes ground up?

Inspiring photos, looks like a beautiful place to climb.
sac

Trad climber
spuzzum
Nov 9, 2009 - 03:05pm PT
Niiiiice dude!

Gracias!

Hey, is that Guy Edwards w/ Mr. Beckey in that pic?

Looking forward to checkin' out the new routes "up there"

... once "the darkness" has passed.

Mooore!! please

A.

Mighty Hiker

climber
Vancouver, B.C. Small wall climber.
Nov 9, 2009 - 04:24pm PT
That photo does look like Fast Eddie, from the mid to late 1990s.

For clarity, the Eldred is less than 150 km northwest of Vancouver as the ladybug flies, but there are two intervening fjords, including Howe Sound. Hence the ferries, and the time needed to get there. Most of the valley bottoms have been logged and are now regrowing, and the road is being kept open for use by a hydro-power generation project. Bears are a non-issue, although undoubtedly there are both blacks and grizzlies around. Bring bear spray if you're paranoid - Canada customs will happily confiscate any firearms you're dumb enough to bring, and deport you. (Edit: You can buy bear spray at MEC in Vancouver.) Generally the bears are more frightened of you than you are of them, and the first you know is when you hear a noise, look up, and see one bounding away. The exception, of course, is camp areas, especially food storage. Need to be careful there.

I've only been to the Eldred once, but it reminded me of climbing at Squamish decades ago. Small friendly community, emphasis on fun and adventure, no one too worried about who does what as long as the forest doesn't get burned down. It is a bit remote, being an hour from Powell River, a Squamish-sized place, and it can rain a lot there. And creating new routes usually takes some effort, giving vegetation. But there are lots of opportunities.

Colin and friends organize a get-together and work weekend there on the third weekend of May each year, which is great fun. There are a dozen or more climbers living in the PR area, but my guess is that apart from summer weekends, visitors would often have the area to themselves.

If you go north from Vancouver, you cross six, possibly seven, regularly traveled roads before you hit the Arctic Ocean - over 2,000 km north. The first half is rather mountainous. We're on the edge of the wilderness, although many fail to realize it.
ryanb

climber
Seattle, WA
Nov 9, 2009 - 05:39pm PT
Looks awesome!

There are innumerable fjords up the BC coast, most of which have fine granitic walls, but most are very difficult to reach without a good boat. Howe Sound (leading to Squamish) is the southernmost, although there are fjords closer to the equator in Newfoundland, Chile and possibly New Zealand.

I think parts of puget sound (particularly hood canal) in WA state are also technically fjords? No granite cliffs close to the water though...
Mighty Hiker

climber
Vancouver, B.C. Small wall climber.
Nov 9, 2009 - 05:46pm PT
Yeah, I wonder about that myself. I suspect that geologists and geographers use the word fjord more precisely than the public. The all-knowing wikipedia says Geologically, a fjord is a long, narrow inlet with steep sides, created in a valley carved by glacial activity. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fjord

The article refers to fjords in Newfoundland, Galicia (Spain), Washington (Hood Canal), western New Zealand, and Chile. Not sure about Puget Sound - was it glacier-filled? Maybe either side of the Olympics?

Norwegians use fjord for both glacial valleys leading into fresh water or salt water - which would mean that wherever there are glaciers and lakes, there may be fjords.

Tourism boosters in Squamish like to claim that the Chief is the "second largest granite monolith in the world", which is beyond absurd. A few also like to claim that Howe Sound is the fjord nearest the equator, which clearly isn't true, but may not be far off, however pointless such a claim may be.
Ghost

climber
A long way from where I started
Nov 9, 2009 - 06:26pm PT
I've always thought Vancouver is a beautiful and sophisticated city, but I didn't know it had areas that appear relatively undeveloped in such close proximity.

John, what Anders said about how you'd only cross about six regularly-traveled roads between Vancouver and the Arctic Ocean doesn't even begin to convey how empty the mountains are. Yes, there are plenty of popular peaks in the immediate vicinity of Vancouver, but for the most part the mountains running up the BC Coast see almost no visitors. And you really don't have to go far from the city of Vancouver itself to be in true wilderness.
ryanb

climber
Seattle, WA
Nov 9, 2009 - 06:34pm PT
Most of puget sound (perhaps the whole Salish Sea?) was carved by glaciers during one of the ice ages I think:

http://www.pugetsoundkeeper.org/about-puget-sound/geology-folder

The kitsap peninsula (the arrow head shaped peninsula between Hood Canal and Puget Sound proper) is actually mostly glacier till with a few scattered glacial erratics...some fun problems on smooth rock but no concentration at all (I grew up there).
Oplopanax

Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
Nov 9, 2009 - 07:57pm PT
That's not Guy E in the photo.
pazzo

climber
Vancouver BC
Nov 9, 2009 - 08:11pm PT
Anders, you always have a lot of stuff to say (good stuff, that is). I love reading about local history when it comes from you.

So rich in knowledge. I can't speak for the funds though :D
kinnikinik

Trad climber
B.C.
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 9, 2009 - 08:34pm PT
The dude with Fred came once .with Fred from somewhere like Missouri, Unfourtunately I,ve forgot his name. Nice guy though. We are mostly climbing routes ground up, but occaisionally using whatever tactics work. Stance drilling with power drills being the most popular method.
Credit: kinnikinik
pazzo

climber
Vancouver BC
Nov 9, 2009 - 09:05pm PT
What are the hardest 'all free' climbs that have been developed?
Mighty Hiker

climber
Vancouver, B.C. Small wall climber.
Nov 9, 2009 - 09:49pm PT
Trail building at the Eldred. (Note jungle.)
Credit: Mighty Hiker

Credit: Mighty Hiker
The tyrolean to one of the cliffs. Wheeee! One for the slackers to try.

Credit: Mighty Hiker
Mastermind kinnikinnick.

Credit: Mighty Hiker
In camp, under the Blue Tarp. (Not quite as famous as the Cult of the Blue Cagoule - http://supertopo.com/climbers-forum/482755/The_cult_of_the_Blue_Cagoule);
kinnikinik

Trad climber
B.C.
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 9, 2009 - 10:10pm PT
The hardest all free climbs are Eldred 9+ (could be as hard as mid 10)
pazzo

climber
Vancouver BC
Nov 10, 2009 - 12:34am PT
That's it? What about lines waiting to be freed?
Climbing dropout

Trad climber
Vancouver, BC
Nov 10, 2009 - 12:50am PT
Maybe a good place to go and un-dropout myself next summer. That campsite looks fantastic. I still have my gas powered Ryobi hammer drill.

But how bad is the damn Sasquatch problem up there ?

Anders how long were you up there for ?

Now the whole world knows about the place ....
Ghost

climber
A long way from where I started
Nov 10, 2009 - 01:05am PT
Now the whole world knows about the place ....

Well, given that there has been an actual printed guidebook available for at least a few years, it was hardly a secret. And posting about it on a forum devoted to the worship of what happened in Yosemite thirty years ago (and whining about what is wrong with politics today) isn't going to bring hordes of climbers to PR.


Lynne Leichtfuss

Sport climber
Will know soon
Nov 10, 2009 - 01:15am PT
Nice Thread and Thanks ..... great pictures, info, and looks like much Fun. Peace, lynne
Tami

Social climber
Vancouver, Canada
Nov 10, 2009 - 02:24am PT
^^^ Whut David said. Esp when "the hoards" come north and find out that jungle is actually more huge & horrid then shown the foto AND Vancouver is still five hrs south of it all ......AND the reason fer all that jungle is








RAIN !!!!!
T H

climber
. . . not !
Nov 10, 2009 - 03:17am PT
That place is completely . . . M E N T A L .
kinnikinik

Trad climber
B.C.
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 10, 2009 - 09:52am PT
Here is a list of routes completed in the Eldred,by formation,approximately in chronological order.
Psyche Slab:
Psychopath5.10 1988 10pitches
Sanitarium5.9+R 1995 10pitches
Delusional reality5.9+ 1996 12pitches
Schitzophrenia5.10b 1998 12pitches
Falkland Crisis5.9 1998 6pitches
Solstice5.10 1999 3pitches
SeretoninReuptakeInhibitor5.10- 1999 8pitches
Day Pass5.7 2004 4pitches
Racknphobia5.10+ 2006 3pitches
Scattered Conditions5.11-A0 2007 8pitches
Never-Neverland5.10C2 2008 8pitches
Decoy5.10 2009 8pitches
Carag Dur:
Funk Soul Brother Wall5.7A4+ 14pitches
West Main Wall:
Mainline5.11A4+ 1994 20pitches
Mad Buggers Wall5.10A3 1997 10pitches
Call of The Granite5.12A2 2004 24pitches
Amon Ruhd:
On The Verge5.9+ 2001 10pitches

A bunch of other stuff has been worked on by various people, particularily on Carag-Dur and the West Main Butress but is too incomplete to be listed
pazzo

climber
Vancouver BC
Nov 10, 2009 - 11:15am PT
Thanks Colin. It would be interesting to see some *really* strong climbers freeing those aid sections.
Oplopanax

Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
Nov 10, 2009 - 12:42pm PT
Mikey Schaefer was up[ there this summer to do Call of the Granite but I heard did not redpoint...
sac

Trad climber
spuzzum
Nov 11, 2009 - 04:58pm PT
http://www.mountainproject.com/v/international/canada/british_columbia/106211389

Gatineau Climber

Trad climber
Ottawa, Ontario
Apr 1, 2011 - 12:13am PT
Bump. Any more pictures?
seth kovar

climber
Reno, NV
Apr 1, 2011 - 12:17am PT
Damn... tfpu
Hoots

climber
Toyota Tacoma
Apr 1, 2011 - 01:31am PT
Killer shots man, thanks for taking us along on the ride!
Ghost

climber
A long way from where I started
Apr 1, 2011 - 01:52am PT
These are probably captioned all wrong, but Colin can correct as necessary

Looking across the Psyche slabs from somewhere on Delusional Reality
Looking across the Psyche slabs from somewhere on Delusional Reality
Credit: Ghost

Looking up p3 of Delusional Reality from a bushy belay.
Looking up p3 of Delusional Reality from a bushy belay.
Credit: Ghost

Forget the leaves in the foreground and look at the wall across the va...
Forget the leaves in the foreground and look at the wall across the valley
Credit: Ghost

Part of the approach
Part of the approach
Credit: Ghost

Sunset view from Powell River
Sunset view from Powell River
Credit: Ghost

Between ferries on the way home.
Between ferries on the way home.
Credit: Ghost


coastal_climber

Trad climber
British Columbia
Apr 1, 2011 - 02:11am PT
I f*#king love B.C.
Gatineau Climber

Trad climber
Ottawa, Ontario
Apr 1, 2011 - 11:02am PT
Awesome pics!

Is the access to this area difficult if you don't have a car? Are there enough people going to the area where hitching shouldn't be an issue?
Bruce Kay

Gym climber
BC
Apr 1, 2011 - 11:16am PT
Gatineau, I think you're out of luck with that idea. Make your way to squamish (which is much more no car friendly) and you might piece something together for the eldrid.

On the note of access, can anyone tell me the extent of road deactivation post IPP transmission line? It shouldn't have been deactivated so low down valley - no?
kinnikinik

Trad climber
B.C.
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 2, 2011 - 01:22pm PT
LOL hitchhiking in!Best to have wheels,though one party approached via canoe route,and mountain bikes are possible. 35 miles from the blacktop, a regular car works but make sure your tires are solid. Old tires in the eldred=hitchhiking.
some scraps
some scraps
Credit: kinnikinik
hangin out
hangin out
Credit: kinnikinik
Psyche Slab from Carag-Dur
Psyche Slab from Carag-Dur
Credit: kinnikinik
NigelSSI

Trad climber
B.C.
Apr 2, 2011 - 11:50pm PT
Hey Colin,

How did that dike you were looking at a few years back go? Remember you were pretty stoked on it.

Also, are you folks doin' another work party up there? Looks like I can sneak away for a while this year.
Mighty Hiker

climber
Vancouver, B.C.
Apr 3, 2011 - 12:36am PT
Speaking of the Eldred River valley, who or what was Eldred?

Presumably it's not a mis-spelling of Edelrid, by some confused bureaucrat.
Ghost

climber
A long way from where I started
Apr 5, 2011 - 01:43pm PT
Hi Colin

Looks like we'll be in Victoria to visit one of my sons this summer, and we're thinking of extending the trip and getting up to PR and the Eldred, so you might be getting a beta request one of these days. (We totally screwed up the travel logistics on our previous visit, and wound up with just over half a day to actually climb.)

What's the absolute best time of year? Late August?

David
gf

climber
Apr 5, 2011 - 05:42pm PT
ghost
eldred? hell brother just hit flemming beach. Its closer to spinakers brew pub.
Ghost

climber
A long way from where I started
Apr 5, 2011 - 06:24pm PT
hell brother just hit flemming beach. Its closer to spinakers brew pub.

Closeness to brewpubs is important. Particularly because, with age, climbing ability degenerates much faster than beer-drinking ability.

On the other hand, the Eldred River valley is kind of nice. And we can bring beer in the cooler...

So tell me about Flemming Beach
Mighty Hiker

climber
Vancouver, B.C.
Apr 5, 2011 - 07:16pm PT
Credit: Mighty Hiker
Fleming Beach (one "m"), spring 1986. gf to left.
sac

Trad climber
Sun Coast B.C.
Oct 4, 2011 - 12:05am PT

"sleepin' in"
"sleepin' in"
Credit: sac

Ghost

climber
A long way from where I started
Oct 4, 2011 - 12:13am PT
Nice to see this thread bumped.

Supertopo is pretty Yosemite centric, and very much underlain by the assumption that Yosemite = "big adventure". While it may have been so in the 1950s and 1960s, that time is long gone. The Eldrid may not be Greenland or southwestern China, but there is at least a bit of a sense of the unknown there.

Not the only place where that's true, but...

gf

climber
Oct 4, 2011 - 04:52am PT
Bump for Colin
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Oct 4, 2011 - 10:44am PT
Nice shots! What's the favored rope there?
Ghost

climber
A long way from where I started
Oct 4, 2011 - 11:44am PT
Nice shots! What's the favored rope there?

The rock is a medium gray, so just about any color rope will look fine in your photos.
sac

Trad climber
Sun Coast B.C.
Oct 4, 2011 - 12:09pm PT
Some random shots from the Eldred.

BTW... Jaybro.... I prefer doubles... w/ ponytails, no color pref...

The Mainer
The Mainer
Credit: sac
M+M on The Mainer
M+M on The Mainer
Credit: sac
Gawkin' @ the freeworld
Gawkin' @ the freeworld
Credit: sac
camp
camp
Credit: sac
camp
camp
Credit: sac
view from the "Freeworld"
view from the "Freeworld"
Credit: sac
JF w/ Obelisk behind.
JF w/ Obelisk behind.
Credit: sac
Freeworld approach trail
Freeworld approach trail
Credit: sac
ground up sploring
ground up sploring
Credit: sac
Colin
Colin
Credit: sac


Colin is everywhere up there.
Miss him huge.

A.




couchmaster

climber
pdx
Oct 4, 2011 - 12:36pm PT
Awesome share! Woot ! for adventure.
Mighty Hiker

climber
Vancouver, B.C.
Oct 4, 2011 - 12:40pm PT
Yes, Colin is sorely missed. I'm sorry I couldn't attend the memorial for him at the end of August - an uncle's funeral in Saskatchewan was the same day. Colin was always good company, whether while climbing, in camp, or Access Society stuff.
Tami

Social climber
Canada
Oct 4, 2011 - 12:53pm PT
Fabulous shots. Love the one of the stump from ago. When I was a kid they were everywhere. Now the second growth is becoming mature and those old stumps are rotting to oblivion. I imagine an entire generation is being raised on the south coast here who have no idea what the little notches for the springboards are.......
NigelSSI

Trad climber
B.C.
Oct 4, 2011 - 07:12pm PT

Thanks for posting up, Andy!

Looks like I'm not making it back up there fora while. I appear to be south of the border already, but next season... Shenanigans!

<3 Colin
sac

Trad climber
Sun Coast B.C.
Apr 19, 2012 - 06:42pm PT
Hola!

On Behalf of Christie Dionne, and Powell River Climbers,and in memory of Colin, an invitation:

This year's Eldred Valley adopt a crag / Blue sky Weekend will be held on on May 4-6. 2012

Located at the Climbers Camp, m34 on the Goat Lake Main. Powell River.

This year will be... what it will be...

Scheduled is a work party/ climbing day Sat., followed by a potluck/ Salmon BBQ.

We will also announce the name for the Camp, in legacy:

"Colin Arthur Dionne Memorial Climbers Camp" in memory of CAD, and his vision for this area.

Also, to announce is the recent "recreation site" designation by B.C Ministry of Forests, and CASBC. for this site. See CASBC website for details.

Also hoping to climb some of the several new routes recently established up there.

Please come, everyone welcome.

Just thought I would put it out there...

Cheers.

Andy Durie

Was just up there the other day, and saw this: Yikes!
brown is recent "skidmark"
brown is recent "skidmark"
Credit: sac


Jeremy

Social climber
Albuquerque, NM
Apr 19, 2012 - 06:43pm PT
Ummm....







F*#KING SWEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEET!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
sac

Trad climber
Sun Coast B.C.
Apr 19, 2012 - 06:46pm PT
You showing Nigel?

Heck Yeah, you are!!
Bruce Kay

Gym climber
BC
Apr 19, 2012 - 07:44pm PT
why do you guys always do it first week of May? Thats always the CAA AGM and crag fest week in Penticton. Shouldn't it dry out just a couple of weeks more?
sac

Trad climber
Sun Coast B.C.
Apr 20, 2012 - 11:42pm PT
BK, I believe it's not always been the first wknd in May. That's how it worked out this year.

Good heads up on the CAA meeting though.

This event has a good record for blue sky, btw... even when it's raining!








Darwin

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Apr 21, 2012 - 12:44am PT
Thanks, and boy haven't you let the cat out of the bag.
Bruce Kay

Gym climber
BC
Apr 21, 2012 - 01:01am PT
It was first week last year too. Same deal with conflict with the CAA meeting. I have yet to make it out there - but I have flown over it a few times. The main wall looks pretty good! Has anyone checked out the big wall in the upper Danniels valley?
sac

Trad climber
Sun Coast B.C.
May 10, 2012 - 07:52pm PT
To anyone who's interested... this years Adopt a Crag / "Jamboree" went well!

25+ in attendance, mostly local crew, good spirit, and tons of sharing!!

Thanks to CASBC for their help , and shwag. Very much appreciated!

And to Christie Dionne for... everything!

Many good projects were completed, really enhancing the "climber comfort" to the area. Come check it out!!

The camp itself now has an "official" designation w/ the Province.

There was a group "dedication" of the name of the camp. Emotional, yet, solid, and with great spirit.

Good weather... local beer... good , good climbing..., whippers, salmon, Love,herbs, tears, and "shinnanigans" indeed!

Anyway, just thought I'd "report".

Here's some pics:

Cheers!

A. Durie

"Craggin"
"Craggin"
Credit: sac
P.R. Crew with P.R. Brew!!
P.R. Crew with P.R. Brew!!
Credit: sac
Local Crew
Local Crew
Credit: sac
Crew too!
Crew too!
Credit: sac
Credit: sac
Tools
Tools
Credit: sac
Ladder Proj.
Ladder Proj.
Credit: sac
Yup!
Yup!
Credit: sac
Campsite Proj.
Campsite Proj.
Credit: sac
mmmmhm...
mmmmhm...
Credit: sac
photo not found
Missing photo ID#247576
Christie... gearin' up!!
Christie... gearin' up!!
Credit: sac

An Owl arrived in the camp late later Sun. eve... A few uf us were lingering, cleaning up, packin, and this Owl is hollerin' away... for ... awhile! After half an hour, this Owl gets closer to camp up a tree, we go stand @ the base, and he's lookin' right at us, gesturing, and hootin' away.
Never seen an owl do this! Goes on for an hour. Then we GOT IT.

Anyway, CAD sure liked his hoots, eh!!

Peace.

CAD
CAD
Credit: sac


Oh, and ALL pictures were robbed, by me! Disclamer?
MH2

climber
May 10, 2012 - 08:54pm PT
Very good. I got the owl as soon as you said, "An owl arrived in camp..."
Mighty Hiker

climber
Vancouver, B.C.
May 14, 2012 - 06:24pm PT
Many thanks!! I couldn't make it this year due to family commitments, but hopefully in 2013.

Bump for a good thread, plus a question. Has anyone been to or climbed Mount Denman, or in that area? A friend is interested in giving it a try.
eric Johnstone

Trad climber
B.C.
May 14, 2012 - 07:01pm PT
Anders, I believe Colin and Mark paddled up there 2 years ago and did a ridge, looked sweet it photos. I can try to dig up more details if you like
eKat

Trad climber
BITD3
May 14, 2012 - 08:47pm PT
How WONDERFUL!

Thank you SO much for the update.

Bittersweet.

oxo

eKat
gf

climber
May 14, 2012 - 08:52pm PT
Thanks so much for sharing the shots, I can think of no finer memorial to Colin.
bmacd

Trad climber
100% Canadian
May 15, 2012 - 03:26pm PT
I'll do my best to be there next year.
Mighty Hiker

climber
Vancouver, B.C.
May 15, 2012 - 05:45pm PT
Eric, was Colin with Mark Gandy, or Mark Someone Else? Anyway, any info on access to and climbing Denman would be appreciated.
sac

Trad climber
Sun Coast B.C.
May 16, 2012 - 11:46am PT
Anders,
Colin, and Marc Albert climbed Mt. Denman a few yrs. ago.
They paddled 30+km. from Lund to Forbes Bay, and camped @ beach there.
I believe asking permission of Klahoose First Ntn. to camp there is a good idea.
They summited via SE Ridge, the route sounded good, w/ some exposed easy 5'th rock terrain to summit. 2 days , beach to beach.
I believe some route finding up the valley bush was the crux.
Anyway, I could put you, or anyone in touch w/ Marc for more info.
cheers.
A.

Denman Camp
Denman Camp
Credit: Kinnikkinik

NigelSSI

Trad climber
B.C.
May 18, 2012 - 01:20am PT
I somehow missed the announcement. :(

Very sorry I didn't make it this year Andy & crew. I might see you up there in a couple months, though!

Nigel
malbert

Mountain climber
Powell River
May 25, 2012 - 09:19pm PT
denman.

we did the sw not se ridge

right skyling is our route, the left side&#40;5.9?&#41; has been climb...
right skyling is our route, the left side(5.9?) has been climbed as well and heard really great things about it.
Credit: malbert

got a few more photos if or details if anyone wants to see em

Jim Brennan

Trad climber
Vancouver Canada
May 25, 2012 - 09:26pm PT
Welcome Malbert,

I will presume to speak for just about everyone that more pics and info would be greatly appreciated !
Mighty Hiker

climber
Vancouver, B.C.
May 25, 2012 - 09:54pm PT
Thanks, guys. I passed the information about Denman on to my friend. He has a cottage on Savary, and has dreamed about getting up Denman. Middle aged, not very fit, but perhaps.
eric Johnstone

Trad climber
B.C.
May 25, 2012 - 10:02pm PT
Anders I work on Savary, probably know your friend, if he wants someone to show him the Powell river area P.m. Me and I'll pass all my contact info on.
NigelSSI

Trad climber
B.C.
May 26, 2012 - 05:55pm PT
Was this the trip you guys found the old rail line, Mark?
sac

Trad climber
Sun Coast B.C.
Jun 1, 2012 - 01:53pm PT

Wanted to add this photo...

thekidcormier

Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
Jun 1, 2012 - 02:04pm PT
Dang how did i miss this thread until now... shucks.

Awesome photos everyone.

Nice work on the adopt a crag days and the nice memorial shelter. If this is going to be an annual event I'll have to make it out next year.

Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Jun 1, 2012 - 02:24pm PT
Ditto. Can't believe i missed this thread until now. Screw next year.. Looks like an awesome place to go hang out. Let's do it this summer!
Relic

Social climber
Vancouver, BC
Jun 1, 2012 - 02:34pm PT
It would be great for someone to do Call of the Granite all free. I'm glad to hear someone at least trying for it. My friends and I are the ones who made that No Permanent Address film that featured the FA of it. While I wasn't a part of the Eldred Valley part of the production, it sure does look like a worthy FFA prize from watching the video.

Paging Will, Sonnie, .... someone go free it!
sac

Trad climber
Sun Coast B.C.
Jun 1, 2012 - 02:57pm PT
C'mon over!

The Moss is dry!!

We'll buy you a beer, lay some topos on you, and show yas around!

Cheers!
A.



sac

Trad climber
Sun Coast B.C.
Apr 11, 2013 - 12:07pm PT
Been awhile since an Eldred update...
Alas, lots of activity up there last year. Several new routes being worked on, on some new walls. Mostly freeclimbing. Really good stuff.

Anyway, an annual invite to anyone who is keen to come check this area out, this would be a good opportunity.

I'll copy Christie's invite, and hope to see some new faces this year.

--------------------------------------------------------------


Hi Every one! Its time to gear up for this years climbing season.

This years Adopt - a - Crag will be held May 24th to 26th. We would like to have work parties on Saturday working on cleaning and upgrading existing trails, and doing some repairs on our outhouse, then after all your much appreciated hard work there will be a Salmon bake pot luck dinner and prizes. Sunday is climbing day!!


C.Dionne

----------------------------------------------------------------


Yeah... PRIZES!

Anyway, feel free to contact me for any more info.

Cheers.

Andy Durie
andydurie@gmail.com




sac

Trad climber
Sun Coast B.C.
Apr 20, 2013 - 12:44pm PT
13'th annual Eldred climber Jamboree.... bump.

Credit: sac
Out_of_bounds

climber
Squamish/Revy
Apr 21, 2013 - 02:24pm PT
Bump Again!

Thanks Sac for the update. I have always wanted to make it over to do some climbing and exploring, so I see no better time than this year. My friend has been spending some time in PR recently, and she attended the jamboree last year, sounds like it is a great time, with a bunch of great people!
Anyone else planning on making the trip over?
thekidcormier

Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
Apr 21, 2013 - 04:30pm PT
Really want to make it out there. But might not be able to swing for trail day.

In the next couple months I have some work lined up in sechelt so I'll definitely be making it over some thine around then.
Krob

Boulder climber
Powell River
Apr 28, 2013 - 01:40am PT
I just found this forum and thread, and am pretty stoked to hear people getting stoked about the valley. I run a blog about climbing in Powell River (There's good climbing in town too, not just the valley) and the Eldred. It's still new, but for those of you interested in the area hopefully it can shed some light on things as a whole. I'm going to try and cover the bases of what's already been done in the area, and try to keep up to date on new development as well. Next week I'll be doing an interview with Matt Madaloni about his and John's first ascent of Carag Dur.
Like I said though, I just started the blog so there isn't a lot of content yet, but I'll be doing what I can to keep it going. Check it out if you're interested in the climbing scene in PR - www.prclimbing.blogspot.com
There's so much to cover, so far I've been updating it every week. I started by just making posts based on random pictures I had, and things I found scattered on line...starting with the last post, expect a series of posts focusing on each wall in the valley.
Cheers and happy climbing!

 K
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Apr 28, 2013 - 02:27am PT
Is it cripple friendly? Damn i'd like to go.. Hmmm.. I wonder who i can get to roll out there with me.
thekidcormier

Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
Aug 11, 2013 - 03:12pm PT
Planning on heading on family trip into the Eldrid either later Tonight, or tomorrow morning. Tonight seems like the better bet seeing as tomorrow the road is active between 6&6 and I don't have a radio..

Is route finding on the logging roads straight forward at night?

Does any one have any beta to get to Psyked slab?

As a worst case senario would anyone in PR have a radio they could rent me for the day to call out my kms?

sac

Trad climber
Sun Coast B.C.
Aug 11, 2013 - 03:32pm PT
KC
Commercial traffic on roads is minimal these days, as shut down for fire season. Caution still advised.
Eldred camp trailhead is @ mm 34 on Goat Lake Main.
Trail to routes on Psyche Slab 20m further on right.
Feel free to PM if you need anything.
Andy

http://www.mountainproject.com/v/eldred-valley/106211389
thekidcormier

Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
Aug 11, 2013 - 04:47pm PT
Awesome thanks Andy! The weather is looking questionable but were going to go check the place out any who.
sac

Trad climber
Sun Coast B.C.
Aug 11, 2013 - 04:55pm PT
KC
Gimme a call when you hit PR (Saltery Bay).
I'll give you a radio, and directions.
A.
604 487 0245
kaleidoscopeflux

Boulder climber
Burlington
Aug 30, 2013 - 10:35pm PT
Sweet thread; lots of amazing climbing photos!
Here's some photos from my camping trip up there; we ended up doing lots of hiking, but didn't do any climbing. http://kaleidoscopeflux.blogspot.ca/2013/08/eldred-valley.html
sac

Trad climber
Sun Coast B.C.
Apr 14, 2014 - 06:33pm PT
Greetings...this just in.

Forwarding Christie Dionne's invite to anyone keen.

Good event, celebrating good climbing, good folks.

Also celebrating the Birthday of Colin Dionne, and his enduring positive spirit in this place.



Climbing season is in its way and its time to get things ready!
This years 14th annual Eldred Adopt a-Crag will be held on May 2nd to the 4th, Bring your trail building skills!! We will be working on the Carag-Dur trail, repairing 2 areas where rock fall has damaged the trail quite spectacularly.
Saturday evening after everyones much appreciated hard work there will be a Salmon BBQ pot luck and prize giveaway!! So bring your best climber campground fair to share!!
Sunday Funday!!! Dont forget to bring your climbing gear!! Theres a good chance that Psyche Slab will be dry and climbable!!!


For any info on details how to get there, etc. feel free to contact Christie Dionne: fjordcoast@shaw.ca

Or myself, on here, or at andydurie@gmail.com

Cheers.

A.




RyanD

climber
Squamish
Apr 14, 2014 - 10:18pm PT
Bump.

Is there some good cragging or bouldering in the Eldred or near Powell river that dries quicker than the walls this time of year sac? I don't think I can make those dates but would like to visit there sometime or next time something like this is happening.


Sport climbing?


sac

Trad climber
Sun Coast B.C.
Apr 15, 2014 - 11:40am PT
There is alot of oceanside bouldering on good clean granite. As well as some shorter trad routes.
Most of the established freeclimbs in the Eldred dry pretty quick.
As for sport.... there is a crag (Higgyland) right in P.R. on the lake with lots of bolted lines of varying grade/quality.
Anyway, this site spells it out pretty good:


http://www.mountainproject.com/v/powell-river/106189297

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