Squamish Photos and Stories

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brownie

Trad climber

squamish

Aug 27, 2014 - 12:23pm PT

Big Mike

Trad climber

Topic Author's Reply - Aug 27, 2014 - 10:02pm PT

Welcome Cyril! I know who you are! you have revealed yourself by your fabulous pics! Sorry we didn't get out last weekend... My body doesn't work as well as my i would like sometimes... shoot me a pm for monday?

btw.. if u don't reveal yourself... i might accidentally... i have a habit of using people's first names.. lol

Uwall solo is out of hand! Nice to see you here Hamie!! does not compute indeed..

Back to Jim's query.. here's another shot from my maiden voyage up the grand.

Aislinn shivering and Nate taping up his poor thumb after my huge pillar whipper sucked it up into his belay device...

Reilly

Mountain climber

The Other Monrovia- CA

Aug 28, 2014 - 10:40am PT

Prolly got these 'tches before you were born, Mike. ;-)

I wonder if it's still there?

Big Mike

Trad climber

Topic Author's Reply - Aug 28, 2014 - 11:44am PT

So cool Reilly!! I'm pretty sure it's gone. Where was it? I've never heard of anywhere referred to as "Whistler Town Centre" before.

Big Mike

Trad climber

Topic Author's Reply - Aug 28, 2014 - 02:48pm PT

Ok Tami. Was it the one that sticks out into the square by the liquor store then? The old Citta's building? Across from the pharmacy?

Jim i remember the boot well. My first outing in whistler was to the local's living room. I spent many a punk night and boot ballet there.

The beer was sh#t, and no one ordered food, but damn! That place was legend!!!

Big Mike

Trad climber

Topic Author's Reply - Aug 28, 2014 - 04:28pm PT

Lol Tami! I knew that Fitz creek had been moved. They built a debris structure higher up the creek, to protect the town in the event of a slide from fitz slump, but there is so much dirt there just ready to fall into the river...

It makes for some interesting terrain, but also makes me glad that i live on a hill at the other end of town.....

RyanD

climber

Squamish

Aug 28, 2014 - 10:41pm PT

My grandpa was working in Pemby in the late 50's and the dude he was working for was trying to sell him the 15 odd acres that was to become the dump/mecca for $35k or something dumb like that lol. Everyone around thought it was a rip off. He probably would have planted hay all over it anyhow.

Besides.

Everyone knows though that whistler always has been and always will be just a distraction from the reason we are here ;-)

RyanD

climber

Squamish

Aug 29, 2014 - 01:18pm PT

That's cool info Tami, maybe Pip's pops was the guy my gramps was working with and he was trying to sell it to him for 3,500 not 35,000 lol!! The details of my story are murky at best and unfortunately that's all I got. Neat stuff.

Tricouni

Mountain climber

Vancouver

Aug 29, 2014 - 01:28pm PT

Tami, more Pip Brock stories, please.

Tricouni

Mountain climber

Vancouver

Aug 29, 2014 - 05:23pm PT

Fascinating. I never met him; John Clarke knew him, though.

Tricouni

Mountain climber

Vancouver

Aug 29, 2014 - 06:03pm PT

Tami, I don't think the Mundays (or Pip Brock) were ever on the Radiant. The Scimitar, yes. I'll have to look it up.

MH2

climber

Aug 29, 2014 - 06:19pm PT

That fires my imagination, Tami. Thanks.

Tricouni

Mountain climber

Vancouver

Aug 29, 2014 - 07:22pm PT

Yes, we all miss John. I thought Lisa's book was very good, and it's great to have it out. (I'm working on one on Dick Culbert, which will be a different sort of book; he was a different sort of person.)

Chief

climber

The NW edge of The Hudson Bay

Aug 29, 2014 - 07:38pm PT

Going slightly off topic, Ms. Chief and I had an awesome adventure to the Golden Hinde about ten days ago, marching in from Myra Falls.
Two days of stellar ridge walking to a camp under the south side.
A little under two hours up the south gully route with some spicy (like don't blow it) fourth to a perfect summit by 09:00.
Huge hump back to our first bivi on Phillips Ridge same day.
Meandered back to Arnica Lake and the eighty one switchbacks down to the car.
Over sixty km round trip and one of the best outings I've EVER done.

I guess if there's a Squamish connection, back in 1973/4 Peter Croft, John Symon, Tom DeGroot (who was a merry old hoot) and I spent five days traversing across Strathcona from Marble Meadows and out the Elk River Valley.
The boys climbed the Hinde and I showed some of my future talent for backing off and declined the steep West face couloir.
Apparently a couple Island guys in loin cloths and Hong Kong get alongs recently did the Hinde in a 16 hr round trip from the Mine.

As an aside, I recently realized that when I first came to Squamish, I was technically an Island lad having spent a big chunk of my youth in cool places like Port Alberni and Port McNeill before landing in the Comox Valley and emigrating to Burnaby then Squish.
Albert Edward was my first alpine outing and Arrowsmith some of my first rock climbing.

It was wonderful to reconnect with the Island alpine and finally stand on top of the Hinde some 41 years later.

Maybe I can figure out how to post a couple photos.

The Hinde some 15-20 km distant from our first bivi on Phillips Ridge.
Our approach this day drops DOWN off Phillips Ridge a few kms ahead, UP Carter Creek and around the left (west) sides of Carter and Schjelderup Lakes, then UP the north shoulder of Burman, then DOWN to the Chasm and finally UP 500M to a cool campsite under the south face.

Ms. Chief on the south end of Carter Lake, one of the prettiest places on the trip.

The Goddess Nesbina, finest adventure partner there ever was, on the summit, morning of day three.

Yours truly, suitably chuffed with some Island giants in the background including Colonel Foster, Rambler Peak, Mt Victoria and The Warden Tower in the distance and, Elkhorn closer on the right.

Nadine soldiers on past Schjelderup Lake on our long day from the summit back to Phillips Ridge.

Looking back from our last bivi on Phillips the morning of our last day.
Not sure how it can get any better.

Chief

climber

The NW edge of The Hudson Bay

Aug 29, 2014 - 07:44pm PT

I could barely resist the uppercase on Alpine but figured those in the know would make the connection.

Synchronicity

Trad climber

British Columbia, Canada

Aug 29, 2014 - 08:12pm PT

Hey Chief as an island lifer I'm glad to hear you came back for a visit! I'm only now learning how the Squamish connection is woven into the tapestry of Vancouver Island climbing history. Not only the climbers this place helped to spawn but those who returned like John and Fred Put to start development of crags and grow the community here, and locals like Barner who brought their knowledge from Squamish back to share with others.

The Island Alpine may not hold the kind of splitter climbing the coastal mainland is known for but it is a mountain range for ramblers. A place of breathtaking beauty with some amazing scenery (and a few mountain gems secreted amongst the thick island bush)!

Chief

climber

The NW edge of The Hudson Bay

Aug 29, 2014 - 08:28pm PT

I did my first rappel on Arrowsmith with Fred Put and some 3rd classing that he thought was pretty stupid.
John Put and I did the second ascent of the East Face of Colonel Foster in 77 I think. Epic.
John and I later went to Arrowsmith and third classed a couple cool mid fifth FAs (probably bolted now) and John was sure he was going to buy the farm on the tope of the second one.
He later told me he didn't know whether to call for help or pray to Jesus.
We climbed some Grade IV ice on Beecher not long after the invention of ice screws.
The Put brothers are solid gold.

Until you've seen the Island alpine, it's impossible to appreciate just how rugged, huge and glaciated the terrain is; incredible.

Stewart

Trad climber

Courtenay, B.C.

Aug 29, 2014 - 08:43pm PT

Yo Tami: Yeah, that was a whole pile of fun, especially since I also had bronchitis from the beginning of the trip, so the broken ribs sure were the icing on the cake. Or maybe the dead battery when I finally made it out.

How did I end up sailing into the shrund in the first place? Well, I was traversing a narrow, wet ledge with a Stubai Aschenbrenner ice axe (as in straight pick) stuck into the vertical snow above the ledge. The guy above me with his brand new curved pick axe REFUSED to drop me a rope, saying I didn't need it.

Turned out I did, since the wet rock also had some verglas on it. Needless to say, I should have turned around and headed back to camp at that point and Trotsky'd the bugger when he returned to camp.