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Messages 5961 - 5980 of total 7692 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
RyanD

climber
Squamish
Jul 27, 2013 - 06:52pm PT
Haha no not me Tricouni, I have the pleasure of working tonight instead.

& i'd be wearing jeans for sure!
TheSoloClimber

Trad climber
Vancouver
Jul 29, 2013 - 10:40am PT
I had cords that I changed into before climbing. They now have a hole in them along with various parts of my left side. It was pretty much a slaughter. I did alright until about halfway to the bolt. Then I couldn't figure out how to progress up, got panicy, and pulled on cams till I clipped the bolt and didn't feel like I was going to die anymore.
Lowered off, Brownie gave it a shot, results not being much better than mine. We decided that finishing up BoP would be a better option than flaying ourselves in Pipeline and bailed.
Now I gotta train on the wyde, go back, redeem myself.
Big thanks to BK and RyanD for lending us big gear to use.
Tami

Social climber
Canada
Jul 29, 2013 - 11:39am PT
.......and remember the FFA was a free solo.

In 1980-ish. Greg Cameron.

Is still a beast.

Tricouni

Mountain climber
Vancouver
Jul 29, 2013 - 12:24pm PT

Is still a beast.

Was a beast on aid, too. Trust me.
TheSoloClimber

Trad climber
Vancouver
Jul 29, 2013 - 12:58pm PT
Tami, had that at the forefront of my mind the entire time. It's hard to comprehend that until you're in there.
RyanD

climber
Squamish
Jul 29, 2013 - 02:04pm PT
Good effort Nate & Brownie. I'm glad u at least threw some pants on, I'm guessing Brownie didn't tho:-)



So what's the prerequisites for pipeline in Squamish (aka how do u get ready for this thing)??

-Beaver
-tantalus crack
-good chimney at the top of sunset strip
-chimney on parallel passages
-few days at cirque of uncrackables
-hypertension


Any others??
TheSoloClimber

Trad climber
Vancouver
Jul 29, 2013 - 03:15pm PT
I can see Tantalus crack being useful. Boogie probably. Everything else would be too narrow or too wide. It's not a chimney, it's full on awfulwidth. After the bolt, it gets a bit wider, to the point where someone really tiny might get in there.
I'm not that bright, so I'm looking to go back once my elbow and ankle heal up. Prepare properly next time. Might have been able to make it a bit further if I didn't feel like I was going to grind my foot off.
If Brownie isn't down, any other takers?
Ghost

climber
A long way from where I started
Jul 29, 2013 - 03:20pm PT
If Brownie isn't down, any other takers?

No thanks. But if you're looking for practice, The Scimitar (just a bit left of Boogie) could go on your list.
Tricouni

Mountain climber
Vancouver
Jul 29, 2013 - 03:30pm PT
Yosemite Pinnacle Left Side might be a good warm-up.
MH2

climber
Jul 29, 2013 - 03:37pm PT
No doubt you've seen it, but

http://www3.telus.net/public/7394243/climbing/offwidths/episode5.html
harryhotdog

Social climber
north vancouver, B.C.
Jul 29, 2013 - 04:30pm PT
Way to go guys. It's clear the way to prepare for pipeline is a pipeload. I also have a #5 and #6 that I'd be willing to lend out for the next round plus I have one of these suits.

Credit: harryhotdog
RyanD

climber
Squamish
Jul 29, 2013 - 06:52pm PT
Hahaha I like how the recommends for pipeline training are many atl 5.11 while pipeloads itself is what 10c??

I'll go up there with u in a few weeks Nathan, once I'm feeling better & for sure if Harry's suit is a 34.

I bet MH2 has done it, anyone else??
MH2

climber
Jul 29, 2013 - 07:32pm PT
I bet MH2 has done it

Ha, ha! I've rapped down beside it so I'm not afraid of it, but the 'closest' I've come is a partner who has the gear for it and says we should get on it.

I'd like to thank Soloclimber for having the experience I have always imagined on that route.
Hoser

climber
vancouver
Jul 29, 2013 - 08:56pm PT
Is that Robo unplugged? I think he had a wide fetish for a while, according to him its pretty good :)
thesiger

climber
Aug 4, 2013 - 09:34pm PT
Is this the right thread to big up Alpinist #43 - the Squamish focus edition? Beautifully-crafted central article by Tami, nicely intertwining her parents experience of mountaineering here before the road was built with all sorts of other time shifts and perspectives (*). Great Slab Alley piece by Anders too.


* well maybe slightly too polite to our local casino/ electronic signboard operators in the last but one paragraph for my taste ... but that's detail.


gf

climber
Aug 4, 2013 - 11:09pm PT
I'll second both the article by Tami and the contributions by the two hamish fellows, peter and anders whose article showed why we miss him on ST
gf
Tami

Social climber
Canada
Aug 4, 2013 - 11:46pm PT
Thanks guys. Cheers'n'best!

Oplopanax

Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
Aug 5, 2013 - 12:53am PT
Heads up, somebody died today in Squamish in a climbing accident. SAR not back yet, no name released
TheSoloClimber

Trad climber
Vancouver
Aug 5, 2013 - 02:27am PT
Sad, very unfortunate. Relic and I were beneath the North Walls and heard the heli, as well as saw the SAR team in the main parking lot. Thought it was just another regular long weekend epic.
Very sorry to hear that.
c-plus

Trad climber
Vancouver, BC, Canada
Aug 5, 2013 - 02:27am PT
dang that's terrible. i saw a chopper doing a long line recovery around 8.
Credit: c-plus

my condolences to all involved...
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