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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 6, 2009 - 11:15am PT
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Helmets are a good idea even on 4-star routes, but the climbing still is fun.
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 6, 2009 - 11:28am PT
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 8, 2009 - 09:02am PT
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Road Warrior, 5.9. Said to be one of the best Seward Highway climbs. I thought it was fun,
and would be popular anywhere.
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Porkchop_express
Trad climber
the base of the Shawangunk Ridge
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Hey Chiloe! I was there last summer- I pulled over to park and sleep and woke up and saw some bolts...so I said what the hell and went for it. Pretty scary, but fun climbing. It was just a real surprise to scroll though this thread and see the place where we climbed!
Did you happen to climb at all on the little island on the other side of the tracks? There are a few bolted routes there, but they look a bit rusty and it was COLD so we agreed to save it for next time!
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 8, 2009 - 11:16am PT
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Did you happen to climb at all on the little island on the other side of the tracks?
Hah, prolly not the same place you're thinking of -- but I recall a little bolted island on the
other side of the tracks years ago. Story I heard (maybe locals can improve this) is that
the railroad folks discovered climbers were crossing the tracks to climb there, and decided
to end that by dynamiting the small crag into rubble.
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anointed one
Gym climber
my mamma
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that looks worse than eastern washington choss. a little epoxy should help with some of that choss.
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 8, 2009 - 11:50am PT
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I kept watching for beluga,
but this was as close as I got:
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hooblie
climber
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you don't often see something like that just sitting on a bench.
ooops...wrong thread
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drljefe
climber
Old Pueblo, AZ
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Aug 18, 2009 - 03:28pm PT
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I had a blast this weekend at one of the five worst crags.
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 18, 2009 - 03:33pm PT
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Post more photos so we can all appreciate the badness!
Bob D's Boulder Canyon guide just arrived in the mail. Maybe sometime soon I'll tick another
of the Five Worst Crags.
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philo
Trad climber
boulder, co.
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Aug 18, 2009 - 03:42pm PT
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Actually Sport Park is not all that bad even with the grid bolting.
Now if you want a real fecal fest of a climbing area I nominate the Iron Clads.
Calling that place choss is an insult to choss.
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noshoesnoshirt
climber
Arkansas, I suppose
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Aug 18, 2009 - 03:45pm PT
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I guess I'm fortunate to have a pick of Arkansas crags, none of which I think would qualify for the 5 worst.
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MisterE
Trad climber
Canoga Porn, CA
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Aug 18, 2009 - 03:58pm PT
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Don't forget Mount Erie!
The rock is nice a solid in most places but holds have been known to break off. The face climbing is your best bet here, as the cracks tend to be shallow and end at inopportune times. Park hours are from 6am to 10pm and there is a gate, so don't get locked in. No overnight camping. Watch out for crowds at the upper walls and heed the guidebook warning of falling junk, beer bottles, and people! (This happened once when I was there!) Wear a helmet! You can scope the upper walls from the store and if you see a sea of helmets don't even bother to go up.... Speaking of, go visit the Lake Erie store. Its an old time general store with an ample beef jerky selection. Help support the little guy/girl. Ticks abound at Erie in season. Check yourself for ticks and remove them properly. Enjoy this with a friend!
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nutjob
climber
Berkeley, CA
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Aug 18, 2009 - 04:10pm PT
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My experience is quite limited, but I respectfully submit:
Point Mugu (ventura county, Southern California)
 greasy, spray-painted little boulder in a paved turn-out next to the highway. I once drove from downtown LA specifically to that spot during a business trip, with 2 other climber buddies.
Indian Joe Caves near Sunol, SF east bay, California)
hot dry multi-mile approach, for a series of low poison-oak covered rocks. A little anti-climactic. Nice hike, crap climbing. Maybe there was a time when poison oak didn't blanket everything?
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apogee
climber
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Aug 18, 2009 - 04:19pm PT
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I visited Stoney Point a couple of weeks ago, and very sad to say it is well on it's way to one of the least desirable places to climb. The High Desert crags that Locker bravely haunts are right up there, to be sure, but of late, SP is giving them strong competition in the way of trash, graffiti, the wonderful smell of piss, condoms, and the occasional homeless person's 'bed'.
Especially sad given the long, illustrious history of SP.
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Captain...or Skully
Social climber
Boise....
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Aug 18, 2009 - 04:29pm PT
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I taught myself to climb a little at Indian Joe Rocks.
The poison oak used to be smaller.
Here's one....Rocky Canyon, Boise.
At first glance, it looks like a pile, but upon further inspection, you notice that it's a grainy, chossy pile.
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tolman_paul
Trad climber
Anchorage, AK
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Aug 18, 2009 - 05:07pm PT
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Chiloe,
My mantra for the Seward is, it's crap, but it's close. And you know what, access is what drives less then steller crags to be developed. When you look at all the factors of what makes a good or bad crag, you could say that the Seward is one of the best. Heres why:
How many big cities have rock and ice climbing 15-30 minutes from downtown? How many folks can get in a climb during their lunch hour? How many crags have outstanding views and good chances of seeing wildlife? With Southern exposure, the climbing season for Alaska is very long, certainly April-Sept for the rocks.
The downside is also the upside, being right off a highway there is alot of road noise. There are some cliffs that are a little way from the road and well enough away from the noise. Other than the ice routes, I typically won't climb right off the road. Way too many cars in the summer. The rock quality varies tremendously. There is some solid very frictiony stuff, but that stuff occurs on the lower angle shorter formations. The more featured and steeper routes have many fractures and loose blocks. The other downside is weather. There is plenty of rain of snow, and when that isn't coming down, the arm can be a real wind tunnel. I thought my eyes were going to pop out of my head one time while soloing up across from Beluga point.
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Seamstress
Trad climber
Yacolt, WA
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Aug 18, 2009 - 06:26pm PT
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Pardon me - as a former traprock dweller, there is something fabulous about having so many crags minutes from your doorstep. Not every little crag deserves a visit there unless you are trapped there and desperately seeking variety. Pete's Pile is quite nice once you get past the nasty little approach trail.
For Crags truly unworthy of a visit, my vote goes to:
1) Rocky Butte in Portland - There is simply no competition. I'd go inside to climb first, and I don't do that. Why go cragging suspended over the interstate? Add trash, crowds, short climbs, moss, poison oak, 6 months of wet weather and other wining qualities for an experience that will inspire you to take up golf.
2) That little crag near the Jackson Hole Airport (Black Tail Butte??)- it's only saving grace is the short approach. Go to the airport earlier and have a drink instead.
3) Peshastin Pinnalces - Much ado about nothing special there. Keep driving - another 20 minutes will get you to far better climbing.
4) Carder Rock in DC - Couldn't take a job in DC after visitng what would be my home crag.
5) Horsethief Butte in Washington. Drive forever to get to a choss pile covered with poison oak. I am not allergic, but my partner never forgave me for stopping there. No wonder no one has published a guidebook.
6) Electric Rocks in CT - There is a dud or two in Traprock land. To be fair, this one has no New England charm - unless the sizzle of power lines turns you on. The bolt chopper himself placed the bolt over there on a 30 foot climb, only to later chop it.
7) White salmon slabs - belay from your bumper for 4 - 5 short pitches. You can climb this out in 30 minutes. That is a great climb/travel ratio since it is over an hour from Portland...
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